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Old 01-20-2011, 09:43 AM   #1
Inane Cathode OP
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Pokey the Wunderbus!

I think i should just start a build thread on my project here instead of bugging people in the regional forum ><

Pokey is a 1976 vw westfalia camper with a blown up motor. Or, partially blown up. Cylinder 3 has almost zero compression (i got it to 4 psi once!). Pokey will be getting a 2.2l sohc subaru motor this winter/spring. The goal is to get it done, tested, and take it on a road trip up to montana this summer. Theres lots of work ahead, but i would like to think i know what i'm doing (what is that saying of best laid plans?).

I've done this sort of thing once before, last summer, when i pulled the anemic 1600 air cooled lump out of my beetle (poor quality ignition parts roasted one of the cylinders, completely my fault) and stuffed in the same engine pokey will be getting. I learned a few things along the way with that, so this time around it should be a bit easier.

Anyhow, this will just be a pictures-with-text type of thing and i'd be happy to answer questions, comments, concerns, and threats along the way.
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Old 01-20-2011, 09:44 AM   #2
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The first few posts will be from a build thread i have going on another forum, so please excuse the improper tenses :)

Alrighty well i talked to KEP and they say that as long as i use the 200mm clutch i can use the 200mm flywheel with any transmission. The bellhousing/input shaft confusion was just that. The input shafts are the same, but the bellhousing is larger to accept a larger flywheel. I opted to go with a 200mm kit with a much stronger pressure plate as there are far more options as far as pressure plates and clutch disks go.
Here's some pictures of the beast:

Ubiquitous interior shot:


Sure is slow driving on THREE CYLINDERS!?


This is the good side, the other is barf green:


And of course the lowly japanese lump that'll push it around some day:
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Old 01-20-2011, 09:45 AM   #3
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Woo! I got my harness, ecu, and exhaust manifold today. I got the harness the old fashioned way and tore the entire thing out without cutting anything (except obviously not engine stuff, namely the umbilical going back to the rear of the car).

That is ALOT of work, although the car was already mostly taken apart (steering wheel off, dash loosened). I had to take the dash out (unhook all the wires from it) take out the dash support frame (big piece of steel going left to right that stiffens the car) the heater blower (nice unitized construction, i might use that for my heater) evaporator core and box, heater core and box.

So now i have about 40 pounds in wiring i have to pare down to whatever is running the engine, shouldnt be too hard. Alot easier (technically not physically) than what i did with the Volksaru (i cut the computer harness, and the engine harness, and put them together later).

I'll get my camera going, this bundle of wires is pretty impressive.

Edit: Got some pictures





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Old 01-20-2011, 09:46 AM   #4
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Fat trimmed


Lean retained :)
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Old 01-20-2011, 09:47 AM   #5
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Update!

Did some more work with pokey today. More fat trimming:


This motor is absolutely gigantic. I could live in the engine compartment after the engine is removed:


In fact i think i might just do that:



Hmm, something is missing i just cant quite put my finger on it:



That is all, have a good day.
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Old 01-20-2011, 09:57 AM   #6
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I have had dreams about going on goofy adventures in a Westy and you may have figured out how to remove the major bummer of such an undertaking Is the VW to Subi conversion common or straightforward at all?
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Old 05-16-2011, 03:38 PM   #7
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Old 05-16-2011, 06:47 PM   #8
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Great read and thread!! Thanks for sharing!

I have always wanted to do a air->water cooled swap when i had my KG!
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Old 05-24-2011, 11:42 PM   #9
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Put some miles on mister pokeylope recently, and a few things are standing out:

It overheats at weird times. Mostly going up hills, sometimes, sometimes not. When it does the radiator is cold, so its not really overheating, just not moving coolant around. The only intermittent thing i can think of is an airlock. I thought i had aaaaaall the air out of it, but i guess i didnt cause it did it again today.

The engine is leaking ALOT of oil out of what i presume is the camshaft seal for the LH side. Enough that it flips into the air and sticks to the back of the bus >< I'll be replacing that when i put a timing belt on it, also be looking at the condition of various idlers and such.

The headlights took a shit tonight too, actually. On-off-on-off-on-OFF accompanied with a burning smell. I chased around wires in the dark and arrived at the headlight switch having some kind of bizzaro internal short that melted/burned up the contact from the power switch in it (otherwise you connect the headlight wire from the headlight relay to the power going into the switch at the melted wire and it functions normally). So, i'll be replacing that. That and i destroyed it taking it apart :)

Other than those issues it seems to be doing ok. The plan of action is to replace that blasted headlight switch, put more oil in it, and try to fix the cooling issue.

Re the latter fix, i think what i will try is reversing the flow on the radiator. Right now hot (and presumably aerated to some extent) coolant goes out of the top of the motor (where air would accumulate) into the bottom of the radiator. Then, the weaker pulling side of the water pump pulls coolant off the top of the radiator (where aforementioned air would end up going). I dont know if it will fix it, but it IS an issue, and it has to be corrected before continuing on. I dont think its a headgasket (yet) or some kind of air intrusion because when it does do the overheating thing the outlet on the radiator is bone cold, and the inlet isnt much warmer, therefore coolant isn't moving. What i'll do is take the supports/fan brackets off the radiator, take the radiator out, turn it around (unfortunately so the hose outlets stick out the front) and put the fans back on it. I think that'll work. There really is no way to reverse the flow on this without doing some goofy pipework from right to left under there somewhere.
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Old 05-25-2011, 05:31 AM   #10
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Might be time to relocate your rad to the back of the bus and use fans and air scoops to move the air through it. That long ass run is making getting the air out tough, and likely the water pump is struggling to push that much water that far.

Jim
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Old 05-25-2011, 06:44 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
Might be time to relocate your rad to the back of the bus and use fans and air scoops to move the air through it. That long ass run is making getting the air out tough, and likely the water pump is struggling to push that much water that far.

Jim
And once it's moving, it won't want to stop very fast when the thermostat closes, plus the long runs of steel pipe also act as radiators, so when the thermostat does open, the engine receives a thermal shock from the cold water.
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Old 05-25-2011, 06:36 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inane Cathode View Post
//

The engine is leaking ALOT of oil out of what i presume is the camshaft seal for the LH side. Enough that it flips into the air and sticks to the back of the bus >< I'll be replacing that when i put a timing belt on it, also be looking at the condition of various idlers and such.
//
Subaru Phase I 2.5's are notorious for pushing oil out the front of the camshaft seals. A lot of owners change them at around 100K along with the drive belt and oil pump o-ring.
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:14 PM   #13
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bus

my 69 DC

how do I post a picture??
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