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Old 05-08-2011, 03:22 PM   #1
EnderTheX OP
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: DFW Area, TX
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How do you check if the alternator is functioning properly.

Hey yall, I thought I would start a new thread specific to this topic.

Can someone explain how to check if the alternator is working? Is there somewhere to hook up directly to the alternator wires and get a reading? Can you do it solely from the battery leads?

If someone can explain it to me I can go do it and post up some detailed pictures

Thanks!
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Old 09-11-2012, 07:22 AM   #2
JRWooden
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Just found these handy charging system guides on the Electro-Sport site, so thought I would post them:

http://www.electrosport.com/media/pd...ng-diagram.pdf

http://www.electrosport.com/technica...g-system-works

http://www.electrosport.com/technica...ting-guide.pdf

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Old 09-26-2012, 08:01 AM   #3
ebrabaek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by =o&o> View Post
Met a friend last Saturday to ride and take pictures of the fall colors... but her 2009 F658GS wouldn't start. Jump started it, got it to my house, checked the stator output and got 7.2 to 7.6 volts on all three legs.

Then, just to compare, I checked my 2009 F800GS, and got 13.4 on one leg and 9.6 volts on the other two . My stator was replaced under warranty exactly ONE year (and 8K miles) ago

So now I have two new stators coming from Rick's Motorsport Electrics.
You might want to consider an aftermarket R/R. There are two out there that have been running with good results.
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Old 09-26-2012, 03:47 PM   #4
JRWooden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by =o&o> View Post
Met a friend last Saturday to ride and take pictures of the fall colors... but her 2009 F658GS wouldn't start. Jump started it, got it to my house, checked the stator output and got 7.2 to 7.6 volts on all three legs.

Then, just to compare, I checked my 2009 F800GS, and got 13.4 on one leg and 9.6 volts on the other two . My stator was replaced under warranty exactly ONE year (and 8K miles) ago

So now I have two new stators coming from Rick's Motorsport Electrics.
My understanding is that any BMW part has a two year warranty on it from time of installation,
that being the case you might want to re-assemble with the bad factory stator and have BMW give you the new upgraded kit with ventilated flywheel at no charge....
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:29 PM   #5
kelsow
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Question.

So I was in the middle of nowhere on Sunday when I went to start the bike and it turned over s l o w l y but started.
I headed home to my garage, stopped the bike and it would not restart.
Did a bit of research and decided it was prolly the battery.
Replaced it with a Deka, started right up.

Started doing a bit more research and poked around with a volt meter.
I'm not well versed but followed the instructions from here, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...77&postcount=5

Anywho, here is what I found,

Fully charged battery was 13.0 dropping to a steady 12.78 with key off.
At idle it's 12.72
3000rpm 13.3
4000rpm 13.6
5000rpm 13.6
14.3v would be good, right?

I also checked the resistance at the 3 pronged connection.
I got 0Ω across all connections, 1-2-3 Is this bad or good?

For AC volts (with 3 prong connected)
At idle I got:
1-2 10v (after cleaning and dielectric grease)11.3
2-3 9v (after cleaning and dielectric grease)10.3
1-3 12v (after cleaning and dielectric grease)12.6

At 3000rpm I got:
1-2 10v (after cleaning and dielectric grease)10.9
2-3 11v (after cleaning and dielectric grease)11.5
1-3 14v (after cleaning and dielectric grease)14.6

I'm not sure if this is operator error or the tester I'm using.

Thoughts?
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Old 09-26-2012, 08:41 PM   #6
ebrabaek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kelsow View Post
Question.

So I was in the middle of nowhere on Sunday when I went to start the bike and it turned over s l o w l y but started.
I headed home to my garage, stopped the bike and it would not restart.
Did a bit of research and decided it was prolly the battery.
Replaced it with a Deka, started right up.

Started doing a bit more research and poked around with a volt meter.
I'm not well versed but followed the instructions from here, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...77&postcount=5

Anywho, here is what I found,

Fully charged battery was 13.0 dropping to a steady 12.78 with key off.
At idle it's 12.72
3000rpm 13.3
4000rpm 13.6
5000rpm 13.6
14.3v would be good, right?

I also checked the resistance at the 3 pronged connection.
I got 0Ω across all connections, 1-2-3 Is this bad or good?

For AC volts (with 3 prong connected)
At idle I got:
1-2 10v (after cleaning and dielectric grease)11.3
2-3 9v (after cleaning and dielectric grease)10.3
1-3 12v (after cleaning and dielectric grease)12.6

At 3000rpm I got:
1-2 10v (after cleaning and dielectric grease)10.9
2-3 11v (after cleaning and dielectric grease)11.5
1-3 14v (after cleaning and dielectric grease)14.6

I'm not sure if this is operator error or the tester I'm using.

Thoughts?
You should see 50-70 vac ...... If you intact only have 10-14 vac..... Then your stator is toast.
One more test... One at a time take each of the ac phases ohm it to ground..... All three wires should be open....ie no continuity. Any other ...... You have a short.
Sounds like a bad stator.
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Old 09-26-2012, 09:31 PM   #7
=o&o>
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebrabaek View Post
You should see 50-70 vac ...... If you intact only have 10-14 vac..... Then your stator is toast....
Just to clarify: Is it correct that the 50-70 volts AC would only be if the stator is unplugged from the Rectifier/Regulator, but the readings should be around 13vac if still plugged into the R/R?
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Old 11-11-2012, 01:31 PM   #8
whitham_wannabe
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Location: Mukilteo, WA
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Another one ....

A familiar story ... 42,250 miles.

Bike got a little harder to start, then finally wouldn't, thankfully while I was at home.

Prodded around with a multimeter today and this is what I found.

Across battery - 11.41
Across battery, engine running - 10.67

Voltage across three pins, with nothing disconnected.
1-2 - 7.9
2-3 - 10.0
1-3 - 8.8

Resistance across three pins.
1-2 - 0.3
2-3 - 0.3
1-3 - 0.3

I have a fried stator, right?

BTW, thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. Awesome resource for a crappy problem.
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Old 11-11-2012, 02:48 PM   #9
ebrabaek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitham_wannabe View Post
A familiar story ... 42,250 miles.

Bike got a little harder to start, then finally wouldn't, thankfully while I was at home.

Prodded around with a multimeter today and this is what I found.

Across battery - 11.41
Across battery, engine running - 10.67

Voltage across three pins, with nothing disconnected.
1-2 - 7.9
2-3 - 10.0
1-3 - 8.8

Resistance across three pins.
1-2 - 0.3
2-3 - 0.3
1-3 - 0.3

I have a fried stator, right?

BTW, thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. Awesome resource for a crappy problem.
For the test to be valid, you have to disconnect the r/r from the stator when measuring the ac voltage, and ressistence between the 3 stator wires. Looks bad though.
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:15 PM   #10
kelsow
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Update on mine.

I got the bike back from the dealer on Wed and all is good now.
It was covered under warranty, thank doG.
Apparently the dealer had to pull a few strings to get the new updated parts
for me but don't know any info beyond that.
It seems that the bike feels a bit snappier but that could be BS, not sure.
The lightened flywheel maybe?

I'm now wondering what is going to go wrong next...
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:15 PM   #11
JRWooden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebrabaek View Post
For the test to be valid, you have to disconnect the r/r from the stator when measuring the ac voltage, and ressistence between the 3 stator wires. Looks bad though.
With stator disconnected also check from the 3-pins of the stator to frame-ground, reading should be "infinite" or very nearly so...
A low reading there means cooked for sure!

At 4000 rpm reading from 1-2 2-3 3-1 should be ~75 VAC

I've not checked mine, but am told normal resistance of the stator windings is ~3.5 ohms

(all this with stator unplugged)

I've not heard from Electrosport for several weeks, so just sent my contact there the "once-a-month" pester e-mail
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Old 11-11-2012, 04:45 PM   #12
ebrabaek
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Location: Grand Valley, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden View Post
With stator disconnected also check from the 3-pins of the stator to frame-ground, reading should be "infinite" or very nearly so...
A low reading there means cooked for sure!

At 4000 rpm reading from 1-2 2-3 3-1 should be ~75 VAC

I've not checked mine, but am told normal resistance of the stator windings is ~3.5 ohms

(all this with stator unplugged)

I've not heard from Electrosport for several weeks, so just sent my contact there the "once-a-month" pester e-mail
I am close to either go with the series R/R.....or new stator/flywheel combo. Really too bad ES has not gotten there yet. Don't look good I guess...
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Old 11-11-2012, 05:19 PM   #13
LukasM
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Guys just look into the reliability of Electrosport with existing products before putting your hopes on them. A more than spotty record....


I personally don't think the new flywheel will make any significant difference, what are those little holes on a spinning wheel really going to do in terms of cooling?

At least the series R/R is "cheap" and has been successfully used by the owners of many other bikes with problematic stators.
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Old 11-21-2012, 09:01 AM   #14
whitham_wannabe
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Arse! Came back here to report that I was up and running again with a replacement Electrosport stator, only to read the last few comments ...!

Oh well, we'll see how this one lasts. One thing is for sure, it is better than the burned out BMW one that now resides in the trash.
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Old 11-25-2013, 03:37 PM   #15
Bigolphish
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Black lead goes to com port.....
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