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Old 05-13-2011, 11:42 AM   #1
Rapid Dog OP
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Question Airhead Timing Chain - Who's done it?

While I have the bike torn down (again) to replace the ME timing module I was thinking about replacing the timing chain. The weeping coming from between the block and the housing isn't getting any better .
Anyone done this?

List of parts I think I'll need:
11141255011 SHAFT SEAL - 28X47X7 $8.64
11311335934 TIMING CHAIN $35.58
11311338185 CHAIN TENSIONER $6.06
07119951480 WOODRUFF KEY - 5X6,5 $1.00

So with that in mind I was thinking maybe I could do the 336 cam as well. Had one on my '91 GS, it really spun up good!
11311336393 CAMSHAFT - 336DEG $167.38

Anything to be wary off? Suggestions?
Maybe the cam is more than I should tackle...


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Old 05-13-2011, 11:52 AM   #2
batoutoflahonda
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Check it:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=663714

Also, ton's of info if try this:

Let me google that for you

Not being a smart ass, just a cool tool.

So, if you type in 336 cam site:advrider.com it will come up.
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batoutoflahonda screwed with this post 05-13-2011 at 12:03 PM
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Old 05-13-2011, 12:14 PM   #3
Rob Farmer
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Watch those 336 cams. According to a good source the latest ones were made in China and have now been withdrawn.

Swapping the cam on a post 81 machine is pretty easy. You can leave the oil pump in place and do it from the front. Earlier machines had a woodruff key and needed the flywheel removing. Just take the pushrods out one at a time putting the rockers back in place after you take each one out. Turn the engine to move the cam followers out the way and away you go.
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Old 05-13-2011, 01:09 PM   #4
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I did the single row cam chain on my '81 five years ago and it was easy. I called Hucky's and he sold me a kit with everything I needed. The only part that was frustrating was getting the master link installed but I didn't know about this forum then and had to figure out myself to come at the back of the chain with the link super glued to a piece of stiff wire. If I had asked ADV back then I would have had a thread of helpful comments. I did not change cams.
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Old 05-13-2011, 03:22 PM   #5
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Snowbum has a bit to say on this & also suggests consideration as to whether the tebnsioner & spockets are changed.

I changed the tensioner & smaller sprocket on my '78 R100RS.

I've a '91 R100GS. The cam chain was replaced not long before I bought it. I can hear it now & see the flicker in timing markls when I attempt to time it. I suspect that just the chain was replaced then, and other worn parts have contributed to its early demise.
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Old 05-13-2011, 03:35 PM   #6
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You just about always need to replace the crank sprocket. Single row cam sprockets seem to last just about forever. Dual row cam sprockets need to be replaced as well as the crank sprocket a lot of the time.
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Old 05-15-2011, 12:40 PM   #7
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Cool2

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWRSNUT View Post
Snowbum has a bit to say on this & also suggests consideration as to whether the tebnsioner & spockets are changed.

...
Changed both gears and the chain on my sidecar rig (formerly Snowbum's). Followed the directions on his webpage - it was pretty simple. Scary as to some details, but a borrowed "caged" 3-jaw puller and a thrift store electric frypan (to heat up the gears and bearing, suspended in an oil bath)... used a brass washer during install between my drift and the crank gear & bearing. Can't remember the temperature but they really slid right on very easily. Don't forget to replace the bearing!

Just finished doing rings/heads on the rig too - the old Airhead has a noticeably improved performance with ~104,000 miles on the clock (purchased @92k).

Oh yes, and that frigkin master link...

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Old 05-14-2011, 06:10 AM   #8
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Master link

Quote:
Originally Posted by dduelin View Post
I did the single row cam chain on my '81 five years ago and it was easy. I called Hucky's and he sold me a kit with everything I needed. The only part that was frustrating was getting the master link installed but I didn't know about this forum then and had to figure out myself to come at the back of the chain with the link super glued to a piece of stiff wire. If I had asked ADV back then I would have had a thread of helpful comments. I did not change cams.
Just replaced my chain on the slash 6. Here's a little tip I used a small flat tip screwdriver with a strong magnet attached to the end. Then "stick" the C-clip on the end of the driver and press it into place.
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Old 05-14-2011, 07:26 AM   #9
Rucksta
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Leak

If the timing chest is weeping it is likely whoever was in there before you did not insert the thin washers item #9.

These washers prevent the timing chest distorting causing the leak.
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