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Old 02-17-2005, 08:28 PM   #1
Poolside OP
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Cam-chain tensioner replacement - Photo Journal


Last Saturday a friend and I changed the cam chain tensioner on his 2001 GS. Enjoy the photo journal.

To begin, here is some information that will address a few common preliminary concerns.
_____________________________


The method of replacing the cam chain tensioner described here does not require a throttle cable readjustment.

***********

The engine crankshaft does not have to be at TDC or BDC or any particular orientation.

But, the 'tension side' of the cam chain should be tight. And the 'slack side' of the cam chain should be slack. This only means that before you start the job, rotate the crankshaft a small amount in the direction it normally turns.

Turning the crankshaft by hand is easy to do. Put the bike on the centerstand and put the gearbox in top gear. Using your hands, rotate/bump the wheel forward until you feel some bit of engine compression, then stop.

Good. The cam chain slack is now on the tensioner side. The chain slack is on the tensioner side when the engine is running.

The chain slack is normally on the tensioner side. But, sometimes when the engine stops, the crankshaft rotates backward a small amount, 'slackening' the tension side. Turning the crankshaft a small amount returns the chain slack to the tensioner side.

***********

The original tensioner has a spring. And when unscrewing the tensioner, when the last thread is reached, the spring will push the tensioner body up from the bore.

The spring tension is gentle. Gentle as in about 2 pounds. About twice the spring tension of a retractable pen.

Also, no parts can fly across the room. The tensioner body will lightly contact the bottom side of the control arm, and stop. At that point the tensioner body will be only 2/3 of the way out of the bore. That is as far as it can go under its own power.



Getting the tensioner the rest of the way out of the bore will probably consume the greatest percentage of the total job time. It would be nice if the tensioner 'sprang' out of the bore, that would eliminate the only time consuming part of the job.

***********

No tensioner parts can fall into the engine from the tensioner bore. Not even if it falls in 'just the right way'.

At some point your hands will be working in a limited space while fiddling around trying to get the tensioner spring out from under the tensioner body. Go at this with abandon, no tensioner parts can fall into the engine from the tensioner bore.

***********

Here are the factory original PREVIOUS MODEL parts, and the FIRST EDITION UPGRADE MODEL parts as of Feb '05. The first upgrade model was priced over $200





Here are the factory ORIGINAL PARTS, and the CURRENT PARTS as of May '07. About $60 to $70.





Start by loosening these two intake tube clamps. Do not loosen the tube clamp that is located next to the cylinder head.







These steps are straightforward enough.





Your throttle body o-ring may look like it has stretched. This one looks pretty good. The o-ring absorbs hydrocarbon crankcase vapors and swells. If it has, the intake tube will tear the o-ring when slid back over the throttle body.

This phenomenon is identical to what happens to the o-rings on the fuel tank quick disconnects.

BMW O-ring p/n 13 54 1 341 797 ___ 52mm x 2mm ___ $3.10





Unplug the fuel injector electrical connector.





Remove the fuel line retainer spring clip.





Remove the two fuel line screws.





Pop off the injector fuel line.





Look at that, the o-ring stayed with the fuel line end cup.





Pull out the fuel injector.





Put the o-ring back on the injector.







Disconnect the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) electrical connector.







Cut the zip-tie for the TPS cable.





Remove the throttle body ground lead.





Remove the two intake manifold flange screws.







Here is a look at the end of the intake manifold 'flange'.





You will need another special tool.





Make a hangar out of the wire and suspend the throttle body and intake manifold out of the way.









Without stopping to stage photos, it takes about 10 minutes to get to this point.





17mm combination wrench works well enough to loosen the tensioner.







Get you a big paperclip and make one of these.





Use the small hook to grab the top, or near the top, of the spring





First pull down on the spring, and then out from under the tensioner body.





Here is the spring removal sequence. You may get lucky and get it the first time.





Use the other end of the paper clip tool to retrieve the piston. Make the paperclip 'vee' large enough so that it is a force fit and will grasp the piston from the inside.





Old parts going to the archive.





Now it is time to install the new tensioner. Start by dropping the piston into the cylinder bore. (There is no picture of this step.)

The large piston can be dropped into the bore . . . plunk. The old piston did not fall into the engine, and neither will the new one. Just drop it in.

The new components fit together like this. It is easier to drop the piston into the cylinder bore that to try to install them while mated.





Slam dunk. Remember, the top of the tensioner body must go up and behind the suspension arm before it can be guided into the bore.





These casting marks are for component alignment.





Rotate the fuel injector body out of the way, and snap on the retaining clip.





The fuel injector retaining clip must slide on smoothly with a nice 'detent click' when fully seated. If the retaining clip does not slide on smoothly, the problem is the injector is not pushed far enough into the fuel cap.





Rotate the injector body so that it is in front of the retaining clip.





Plug in the electrical connector. When oriented correctly, the electrical connector blocks the injector retaining clip.







Job complete. A-a-a-h-h - h - h. The first start up was nearly silent.





Thanks for the props everyone. Happy wrenching.

- Jim

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Poolside screwed with this post 05-23-2007 at 03:32 PM
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Old 02-17-2005, 08:42 PM   #2
philschl
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Thumb How-To uninstall a throttle body...

Nice one, Jim!

I need to take off my right TB for rebushing the butterfly shaft, so thanks for the picturesque step-by-step instruction!

Phil
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Old 02-17-2005, 08:42 PM   #3
configurationspace
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Wow, Poolside. That's beautiful. I might just change my cam chain tensioners so I can use all this wonderful information.
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Old 02-17-2005, 11:27 PM   #4
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Jim this is really great. My only concern is that bike looks way to clean. How can such a clean machine need new tensioners?

JJ
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Old 02-18-2005, 01:33 AM   #5
Andrew
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Upgrade

At some point, I would like to hear about the differences between old and "upgrade" versions of the tensioner. What advantage to change? Is the new part the only part that BMW sells?

EDIT...

Sorry, didn't see the other threads.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=16
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Andrew screwed with this post 02-18-2005 at 01:39 AM
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Old 02-18-2005, 03:37 AM   #6
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You da man, Jim.
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Old 02-20-2005, 09:13 PM   #7
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You still da man, Jim, but where's the rest?
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Old 02-21-2005, 01:00 AM   #8
Bill 310
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[QUOTE=Poolside]
Last Saturday a friend and I changed the cam chain tensioner on his 2001 GS. [QUOTE]

This is better plan . My cam chain guide and tensioner snapped at 6,00 RPM behind Mt. St. Helens in August. I was passing a car ( never did get that pass finished).

The bike was an 03 GS Adc. 50,000 miles on it , BMW did a total engine swap - it was knarly inside.

That took from early August till mdi December.

In that time I rode a new LT to Mexico and back and got knocked down at Reg Pridmore totaling the LT and now have a Wing.

I guess my cam chain guide/ tensioner problem was not the one in a million BMW thought it was.

P5

Bill 310 screwed with this post 02-21-2005 at 01:01 AM Reason: typo
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Old 08-06-2005, 12:56 PM   #9
yelostn78
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hey i ordered these parts

11 31 7 688 629
11 31 7 656 922
07 11 9 963 308

I got them today and I have the spring loaded piston, the new outer body with the copper gasket, i did not get the smaller black piston, is it needed, and what is the part number.
thanks,
Sam
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Old 08-07-2005, 01:33 AM   #10
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Question

Hi chaps, Just read this post with interest as it might affect me.

I am rebuilding a 2003 1150GS (13,000KM) which has been in a front end collision. It has stood for about 18months without running. The front engine cover was whacked by the front wheel and cracked.

I replaced the lower alternator pulley and rotor as they were distorted. When I got the engine started it was making a knocking noise from the front end. Ran it at tick over for about 5 minutes and it didn't go bang so I hope it's not terminal. I did have quite thick oil in it (10W/30 - It was free from work) and I live in Cyprus where we normally use 20W/50 oil. Not sure if it was to thick, but I wanted to get any crap out of the engine (I did find some aluminium swarf in the oil when I drained it).

Any thoughts and also when did the manufacture start fitting these new devices to these bikes?

Regards and enjoy the sun where ever you are

Derek
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Old 08-07-2005, 08:32 AM   #11
bemiiten
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yelostn78
hey i ordered these parts

11 31 7 688 629
11 31 7 656 922
07 11 9 963 308

I got them today and I have the spring loaded piston, the new outer body with the copper gasket, i did not get the smaller black piston, is it needed, and what is the part number.
thanks,
Sam
You have the latest updated parts that cost around $50.00. The tensioner pictured in the write up is the older, discontinued tensioner update that went for around $200.00
You have everything you need.
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Old 09-06-2005, 09:28 AM   #12
profwacko
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11 31 7 688 629
11 31 7 656 922
07 11 9 963 308

Yep. That's the ones.

I just installed them in my 1150GS, and the difference in noise level is amazing. Now, I gotta do the rocker end play thing and it'll really be quiet.

If you have a lot of slapping noise from your left cylinder, then this is your fix.

If you can change your oil, you can do this yourself.

The parts from chicagobmw.com were less than $60.
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Old 09-06-2005, 01:13 PM   #13
G-Force Junkie
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FYI, I ordered these on the 14th of last month and I called Chicago BMW today, they got a shipment of them in last friday so if you ordered them, they should be on their way.
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Old 09-23-2005, 07:54 AM   #14
LBZ-GS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by profwacko
11 31 7 688 629
11 31 7 656 922
07 11 9 963 308

Yep. That's the ones.

I just installed them in my 1150GS, and the difference in noise level is amazing. Now, I gotta do the rocker end play thing and it'll really be quiet.

If you have a lot of slapping noise from your left cylinder, then this is your fix.

If you can change your oil, you can do this yourself.

The parts from chicagobmw.com were less than $60.
Hey guys, just sent a customer these parts and I want to MAKE SURE that these are the correct parts that are needed. Earlier in this post a gentlemen is referring to the piston as "Spring Loaded" and I want to know why as the piston itself does not appear to be spring loaded. Before he goes and inserts these parts I just want to double and triple check that this is the correct procedure and we do in fact have the right parts. Thanks Frank!!!!!
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Old 08-25-2006, 10:47 AM   #15
rwcfrank
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PArt number question

I tried to find the correct part #s but the online catalogue says "did not find"

are these correct?

11317688629 cylinder left
11317656922 piston left
07119963308 seal ring
13541341797 TB gasket

Thanks in advance for the help!
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