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Old 09-10-2011, 06:06 PM   #1
The Other JC OP
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R1200GS Adv oil leak - replace gearbox input seal, install Siebenrock disc

'07 R1200GS Adv oil leak - replace gearbox input seal, install Siebenrock oil resistant friction disk


Following my post about the oil leak, it seems only fitting that I do a post on the fix, bringing together all the links of information that I used to complete the job. I hope this will save someone some time and effort in figuring out if they are up to the job. There is a lot of information in the links that I do not cover in this overview.

So after the initial cussing and swearing, a calm mood settled over me, turning into a secret thrill the more I read that I would have to pull the bike in two and do a clutch and gear seal job. Its been a few years since my last foray into a serious mechanical job, but after reading a few threads I knew I could do the job.
The thrill that I would overcome that barrier between me and 'The BMW'. Stripping a bike down is the best way to overcome that awe of new technology, finding out that they are all just nuts, bolts, tolerances and torques with no magic involved at all.

  • Surfing the interwebs shortly after the clutch slipping event I stumbled across the Siebenrock oil resistant clutch friction disc. This was a good omen.
  • Then I found this thread on UKGSER showing the process of breaking the bike down and replacing the clutch disk.
  • This thread brought up the possibility of having to replace the whole clutch assembly, not something I had considered.
  • This thread showed also showed how to remove the gearbox and other good tips.
  • This post probably saved me a lot of trouble. Although I read the RepROM procedure, I missed the bit about the studs to hold the frame on the engine when the frame is split.
  • And this thread for yet more exposure to the job at hand.

Thank you to all those people who take the time to prepare these writeups, they are invaluable and saved me hundreds of dollars.
Dollars with which to buy new tools :)




---Preparation.

I ordered the new clutch disk from Siebenrock in Germany.




Next, make studs for the frame and the gearbox. I figured studs for the gearbox would help in removing and installing the gearbox straight, help to align it with only one set of hands to do the job. I cut the high tensile bolts at the 19th thread loop line for the frame studs, perfect length.




A luxury item, but I figured it would be worth it getting the wiring loom back onto the frame easily - a cable tie gun.



Homemade Oteiker clamp pliers. A $2.50 plier reformed with the help of a grinder and needle files.




Lithium moly grease to add to all my other grease tubs!!.

Honda Moly 60 grease also to add to my collection. This stuff does not seem to be available over the counter in Australia. I was told a special order would be required at a total cost of about $50 for the 3gram tube. I ordered through eBay from the US and got 3x3grams tubes for $50 - $17 of which was postage!!.

Got all the gear, ready for the actual work. Deep breath....the fun begins

The Other JC screwed with this post 03-12-2013 at 04:35 AM Reason: spelling
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Old 09-10-2011, 06:28 PM   #2
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R1200GS Adv oil leak - bike split

R1200GS Adv oil leak - bike split

---Split the bike

I was up bright and early for the start. I had this idea that I would have the bike apart by early afternoon. hahaha. Silly me.



I set a very slow pace, carefully photographing the procedure and replacing screws into holes as I went along, rather than trying to remember which went where, going slow to remember how it all went together.



Its also a surprisingly physical job, and I was aching after the first day.
I followed the RepROM procedure most of the way, detouring only where appropriate.




  • I kept the sump crash guard on
  • Remove exhast silencer
  • Next, rear wheel spray guard
  • Undo injection valves, remove Oteiker clamps left and right side where connected to airbox hose, remove left throttle body for access to the frame bolts.
  • Disengage throttle cable divider from air intake box
  • Remove start motor cover. It was a pain to get the starter motor cover out and I would recommend leaving it in place until the bike split when it will be much easier to remove.
  • Undo gear linkage lever. You should still be able to get to the gear lever circlip OK to undo the linkage with the starter motor cover still in place, rather than undoing the bolt and sliding it off the gear change spline. The gear lever linkage is attached to the rear frame, so needs to be unlinked to split the frames.
  • Remove clutch slave cylinder from rear of gearbox. Carefully undo each screw together for an even removal. I read of someone removing the rear spring to get theirs out recently. I just used an extension with a u-joint to get round the spring.
  • At this point the RepROM says remove the rear mudguard. I tried, but it was going to be messy, so I took this threads tack and simply removed the rear rack. Much better option.
  • Remove the rear wiring cluster and loom to the front of the bike, cut all the cables ties on the frame.
  • I do not have ABS so did not need to touch the rear break unit at all.

Start to remove the wiring from the rear of the bike taking photos for later reference




I paid close attention to the wiring and nylon ties for the rebuild, and where the wires came through the frame like the two below middle left - easy to forget this stuff.. as I found out later even with photos!.




Being outside in winter the days are short and I was packing up after stripping the bike ready for the split the following morning.




================================================== =========
Day 2 I awoke to rain. :(. Mid morning I set up a tarp to cover the arse of the bike hanging out the shed. Fortunately it was not windy.




Securing the bike for the split took a bit longer than expected. I am not a great knot tier but eventually had her hanging from the rafters at the handlebars.
Place trolly jack under the bike to take the weight of the front section. I put the trolly jack on some wood to stop it rolling unexpectedly.
Cut the remainder nylon ties and remove the wiring loom off the sides of the bike, making careful note of all the cable ties.




And so the split begins. Remove the first top bolt either side and insert the studs to hold the front frame in place on the engine block - seen here on left side between my fingers after the rear frame was pulled away , cannot remember what I was pointing at here, I think my fingers shifted focus when I took the shot.




Next loosen the frame bolt at the back and bottom of the gearbox, tricky to get to that one. Then the other 4 bolts top and bottom of the frame. Remove the 5 bolts, double check all the wiring is cut loose from ties and fixtures.




Time for the split. Walk round and grab the rear of the bike and pull centimeter by centimeter, checking at each move for any snagging. This was easily accomplished on my own.
After the first tug... the split begins.. At this point I thought I would be able to save myself stripping the drive shaft and so worked to remove the shaft at the gearbox end as I split the frame.



The centrestand will not fold under itself going backwards so you are safe to tug the frame backwards. As the rear frame cleared the front, the front lolled to the side, I re-tie the rope better with a wider reach on the rafters to help stabilize her.




The back comes off at a slight angle to avoid the exhaust scraping on the center stand bracketing.



A few tugs and checks for wiring later and she's well apart. You can easily move the rear around, just pick up at front and move like a wheel barrow - but careful so you don't lose balance!.



A cold and wet day I finished when the bike was apart and hanging securely. It was mid afternoon and the next phase was a bit too long for the rest of the light in the sky to leave at a satisfactory place, plus my body was aching and a long hot soak in the bath was in order!



At his point I assisted the trolley jack with some wood blocks to support the bike.. did not want the trolly jack dropping the bike slowly over the following week. Wrapped her back up in a blanket to keep the wind and damp out, and dropped the sheeting over the front of the shed opening.

The Other JC screwed with this post 08-03-2012 at 06:28 PM Reason: link to petrol tank removal thread
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Old 09-10-2011, 06:58 PM   #3
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Truely...I'm eating popcorn...

... as I read your writeup. Great job, well written and I'm waiting for more...keep up the good work!

Bill in OR
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Old 09-14-2011, 04:13 AM   #4
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R1200GS Adv oil leak - seal and Siebenrock install

R1200GS Adv oil leak - seal and Siebenrock

Weekend 2 - Day 3

Another bright early start. Getting the gearbox off was proving to be very difficult. The top left and bottom right would not come away after the bolts were out. I tried all manner of maneuvers including trying heat with a hairdryer, but it would not shift. I did not want to get drastic in case of damaging the housing. I went to see my local BMW store to ask the service guy for advice.
Fortunately one of the mechanics was handy and his words were 'heat, and more heat'. Not entirely convinced, but with this as the only option left, I went and bought a heat gun, applied heat to the stuck areas, and some gentle pressure with a crowbar and off she popped. Crowbar applied against clutch housing and front of gearbox. A heat gun is a hairdryer on double dose steroids.




Once I get the gearbox off it is quickly apparent that the gearbox input shaft seal is the source of the oil with oil seeping around the seal.



Pulled the clutch plates off and sure enough the friction disc was melting onto the clutch plates. See the black smear marks round the pressure plates?, that's clutch meat. The clutch plates were very smooth, no scoring at all after I cleaned off the melted friction disc material. This was looking good that I would not get clutch chatter requiring another couple of weekends to redo the whole clutch.



The old melted friction disc, still with plenty of 'life' in it :(




Spent half the morning cleaning everything, the engine sump area, gearbox, engine output shaft and clutch area.



I was a bit nervous getting the gearbox input shaft seal out, did not want to do damage. Drilling the old seal caused a bit of concern, I seemed to be drilling metal, and I did not expect metal. After a few stops and starts I satisfied myself it was drilling the seal correctly and finally broke through with a sudden jolt.. oops!. Fortunately no damage done. Same for the second hole. Fu#k!! Need to get a brand new drill bit next time!. Insert screws into seal, grab with pliers and gently tap on the pliers, alternating screws, to slowly extract the seal.. WooHooo!!. Out she pops, and no scratches on the aluminium.





No protection required on the input shaft while sliding the seal on, the seal cleared it by a good couple of thou' all round.



I had pre-measured the old seal depth at between 5.1mm and 5.4mm. I made up a drift tool to insert the new seal with a plastic plumbing joiner bit. Seal finally seated at 5.2mm measured.



If the drift tool looks a little lumpy, solution is to turn the tool and tap all round the seal so it all sits at the deepest point of the drift. This plastic was a bitch to cut straight.



Next to rebuild the clutch assembly with the Siebenrock disc.
This is were the gearbox studs came in handy. For centering the friction disc, I slid the gearbox onto the studs I made, input shaft into the friction disk to centre it, then tightened a couple of the bolts on the clutch housing cover to hold the friction disk in place, removed the gearbox, and tightened and torqued all the bolts to 12NM. Engine locking device not required. RepROM states clutch housing is balanced at manufacture.. I take RepROMs word.



Re-apply the gearbox and tighten bolts to 19NM. Attached starter motor, cables, connectors and starter motor cover.



A good place to stop for the day, time to go cycling to loosen up my aching body again.

===========================
Day 4.

Start putting all the bits back on, come to put the two halves together while managing the dastardly drive shaft, but rear frame will not line up to the front frame. There is something stopping it connecting and I cannot figure it out. I now realise it was the drive shaft where I did not appreciate it had to pop over the circlip, also I am not sure it hadn't fallen off the the other end during removal.

Wife now wants to drag me out to a surprise (to me!) lunch with friends. I cannot escape this one. I miss the best part of the day for getting the bike back together.



After lunch and the bike is not going to go back together. With darkening sky and no desire to rush this important part of the job and do damage, I pull the bike apart again ready for another day. The drive shaft sticks solid on the gearbox output shaft. Bollocks. I have to pull the shaft halfway out before it finally lets go of the gearbox shaft. Well now I will have to strip the drive shaft end .. next weekend! WHERE DOES THE TIME GO!!??

Seek advice from ADVRider on work required for sorting the drive shaft. Thanks people!

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Old 09-14-2011, 04:40 AM   #5
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Wonderful report / story! Your sterile F1-like garage space brings back memories of dirt yard rebuilds in my past, long ago. Nice to see people taking on seemingly daunting tasks. Inspirational. Thanks for taking the time to take lots of photos. Nice commentary. Good luck.
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Old 09-14-2011, 06:23 PM   #6
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I replaced my oil-soaked stock clutch disc with the Siebenrock oil-resistant disc, and so far, so good. I've only put a few thousand miles on it thanks to a perpetually leaky output shaft seal. But fingers are crossed that that's fixed now. Good write up so far, keep up the good work.
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:03 PM   #7
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Nice one

Love the write up! Thanks Mate!

Looks all pretty scary to me :-)

Take care & best wishes from Brisi!
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:18 PM   #8
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great report
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Old 09-14-2011, 11:50 PM   #9
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Awesome!

You sir, are an animal! Nice job mate!
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:35 AM   #10
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Inspiring write up

Thanks for sharing, great to see a true do-it-yourself job using ingenuity in a practical setting. Sure it would be great to have a garage with a lift and all sorts of fancy Snap On tools, but hey I know I can't afford those things! Good to see I can tackle this job myself when the time comes. Keep up the great work.
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Old 09-16-2011, 10:27 PM   #11
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Thanks for the feedback

Thanks for the feedback everyone. Glad someones reading it

Next installment coming soon. The GS had been very compliant so far... ...she was now going to show me who was really boss
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Old 09-17-2011, 05:00 AM   #12
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Don't forget to check the slave cylinder!
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Old 09-17-2011, 05:56 AM   #13
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A courageous endeavor, indeed. Well done!
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Old 09-23-2011, 04:05 AM   #14
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So up till now the GS had been very compliant, but now the tables would turn and she would show me how she wanted to be treated.

Pro-tip to those who follow: make life easy, remove the drive shaft at the beginning, completely, at both ends!

It had taken me two weekends to get to this stage of the job. It would take another two weekends to finish the job. As I sit here now and type the story up, I cannot remember why it took that long. I think a combination of late starts, early finishes, and me taking my merry time at every turn. Also not being mentally prepared at having to go through the procedure for re-fitment as per the RepROM. No shortcuts. The next part of the saga story covers 3 more days over 2 weekends. The final day will follow on from that.


Bike minus gearbox side shot.
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Old 09-23-2011, 06:53 AM   #15
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Great write-up, JC! I especially liked "Stripping a bike down is the best way to overcome that awe of new technology, finding out that they are all just nuts, bolts, tolerances and torques with no magic involved at all." Well said!
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