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Old 09-11-2011, 06:27 PM   #1
bbcmat OP
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How "grease swingarm" on 91 paralever?

My 91 R100GS operators manual has a picture of greasing the swingarm with a grease gun behind the black plastic covers on the swingarm shaft.

I don't see a fitting or a grease well behind my black covers - what am I failing to see?

THx!

MAT
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:09 PM   #2
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Airhead swingarm pins are greased with a conical grease gun tip. An old-fashioned chain saw tip grease adapter works nicely. However, the swing arm bearings on Paralever bikes are not supposed to be greased, as the swingarm vents through them.

Many Paralever bikes have no grease retainer behind the bearings and you could squirt several quarts of grease in there without it getting to the (sealed) bearings.
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Old 09-12-2011, 01:55 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbcmat View Post
My 91 R100GS operators manual has a picture of greasing the swingarm with a grease gun behind the black plastic covers on the swingarm shaft.

I don't see a fitting or a grease well behind my black covers - what am I failing to see?

THx!

MAT
You are failing to see nothing. The swingarm pivot bearings on the paralever bikes are 'permanently' lubed, which is the manufacturers way of saying you can't lubricate them (without significant dissassmebly). I don't see any reason they couldn't have put a cup behind that race, but then, I don't understand why they didn't 'size' the oil canisters to be the correct depth when fully seated either.
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Old 09-14-2011, 02:47 PM   #4
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Thanks Guys!

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Old 12-11-2012, 10:09 AM   #5
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This might work ??

I'm just reassembling my 93gs, the right swing arm bearings failed . Bone dry and in pieces before I got home . I read the insanity of bearings acting as breathers for the cast swing arm . Does that not mean there's air where grease is supposed to be ? I packed the hey outa the new bearings before installing them in the swing arm . Then smeared a bit back of the bearing . I previously drilled a 3/32" hole on the bottom of the swingarm, on the FD end, center of the boss cast there for a drain plug . I put a 1/16" brass cotter pin in the hole and spread it out . Rain water won't enter, if it gets submerged, I pull the FD rubber boot off that night . Why the SW would develope pressure is beyond me, but the 1/32" air space at the cotter pin should " breath". I just hope it doesn't "suck" air . The driveshaft, FD bearings, and SA bearings are an anual ritual with this MC . Having one or the other fail every year, or about 25k . I figure, when the greasable driveshaft needs grease . The FD bearings can be greased . Now I can use my finger to repack the SA bearing as well . Maybe it will become an ongoing maint schedule or I'm hoping . Has anyone done this, or have a comment about it ?
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:52 AM   #6
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What kind of grease are you using for your drive shaft? I've got one of those aftermarket units that Ted Porter sells, but there is no documentation with the unit to tell you what to use. For that matter, there isn't even a parts list - and these things are supposedly re-buildable.
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Old 12-11-2012, 08:11 PM   #7
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I'm using a regular green BelRay grease on and in the driveshaft. I have the same one you do, Jack, the Emrald Isle one?


Those are pretty good ideas, Cpt. I'm not sure why it pressurizes, other than an enclosed space that changes shape a little bit and heat ups and down, etc. When it does though, I think it pukes the grease out of the bearings, backwards, I think. I like the idea of a different vent than the SA bearings, but maybe something like the airbox valve. That valve is uncomforatable bigger than 3/32 but maybe there's something similar out there.
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Old 12-11-2012, 08:24 PM   #8
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I'm using a regular green BelRay grease on and in the driveshaft. I have the same one you do, Jack, the Emrald Isle one?
I never heard it called a name. It came in a nice black cardboard box and had nothing in the way of literature enclosed with it. I e-mailed Ted for some info but he had nothing to share with me - I guess he is in the dark as much as we are. I do know the grease in the bearing cups is green....

In my aviation maintenance world, we have been warned not to mix certain greases because they react together and start solidifying. Not a good thing. Gee I never thought about it - I could start a grease thread....
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Old 12-13-2012, 01:35 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by CptImagine View Post
Does that not mean there's air where grease is supposed to be ?
It does not. The hole is through the center of the pin, not through the bearing.
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Old 12-14-2012, 04:23 AM   #10
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I have the GS version

With solid pivot pins, the only holes are bottomed and for allen wrenches, the factory data says " vents through pivots" ???? Swingarm pins solid, FD pins solid, and screwed down rubber boots fore and aft . Along with factory warnings to "not grease bearings" ? That is why I assumed there's air where grease is sposta be comment . That along with the sorry. lame a$$ so called seal that come with the SW bearing . It;s a hard plastic spacer, and little more . IMO Beyond abnormal air venting, ie. " thru a bearing", there was no venting in this swingarm . That prompted me to drill the SW and put the undersized cotter pin in same hole .

CptImagine screwed with this post 12-14-2012 at 04:35 AM
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Old 12-14-2012, 06:19 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by CptImagine View Post
With solid pivot pins, the only holes are bottomed and for allen wrenches, the factory data says " vents through pivots" ???? Swingarm pins solid, FD pins solid, and screwed down rubber boots fore and aft . Along with factory warnings to "not grease bearings" ? That is why I assumed there's air where grease is sposta be comment . That along with the sorry. lame a$$ so called seal that come with the SW bearing . It;s a hard plastic spacer, and little more . IMO Beyond abnormal air venting, ie. " thru a bearing", there was no venting in this swingarm . That prompted me to drill the SW and put the undersized cotter pin in same hole .
I'm not reallly that worried about 'venting'. Factory data can be wrong - I see it in aviation. If there is any atmospheric pressure changes inside the swingarm as it goes through its travels, for all I know it goes back through the seal into the final drive - and then vents overboard (I have very little faith in the FD input seal because mine pukes oil forward when I'm handling it during maintenance but somehow is oil tight when the bike is in service - and please no one suggest that I change it because its faulty). I have replaced this swingarm several years ago due to PO damage caused by a failed shock and inspected and greased the swingarm bearings then. No big deal. The bike is up on a hoist and I'm prepping to dig into the shaft any day now - here's hoping that the shaft re-grease is uneventful.
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Old 12-14-2012, 06:55 AM   #12
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Vent above the seal.

There is a small triangular hole above the outputshaft seal that works as a breather hole for the swing arm.
Those holes can also cause gearbox oil to leak into the swing arm. The oil vapors causing the grease of the u-joint bearings to get thinner. Therefore not lubricating the U-joints like they should.

This same problem happens with drive shaft splines of the K75/100. But than its the leaking seal in the FD most of the time.(or gearbox)

The re-buildable shafts should be serviced every 10,000 km !! As was told to me by Mat from the Boxer Toko.

IMO Trying to get grease trough the grease point is tricky. As the grease is pushed trough it "should" lube all 4 bearings.
But I have often seen that the grease takes the easiest way out and will squirt out of 1 bearing. And its not going trough the other ones.

When those axles where new nobody could tell me what type of grease to use.
After asking a company how did nothing but re-building drive shafts, they gave me some grease that is so thick and sticky,
that it will never be possible to get it trough the holes into the bearings!!!
So every time I took it apart and stuffed the u-joint bearings and mounted everything again.

(i'm sorry I don't know what type of grease it was)
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:09 AM   #13
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That's the big question. Do you use a very sticky wheel bearing type grease or some less viscous utilitarian variety that pumps easier - and if it pumps easier, does it provide the required protection for those needle type bearings that one finds in u-joint bearing caps? This is turning into a grease thread....
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:44 AM   #14
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10,000K's, even 10,000 miles is too short of an interval to go taking that poor thing apart
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Old 12-23-2012, 07:08 AM   #15
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The late 80's setup has arrived

Thanks to all who've helped on this string . I bought this mc 10 years ago with virtually no miles on it . 65,000 miles, and 3 years ago I started riding it . After weighing the $400-600 investment and the "prudent" 10,000 mile greasing and general servicing of the paragoric driveline/driveshaft on my 93gs . I have decided, It's being retro fitted with a lengthened SA and DS from a vintage mono RT . My other ride is, an RT that has 160K miles on it . I never even looked at the driveshaft, every 20K I'd lube the trans spline . At 50K remove the trans/SA/DS to clean the clutch & it's cavity . To date all the failures in my gs driveline have happened within 200 miles of home base . What I consider very good karma, at about annual, 20,000 mile intervls . I do not want to rely on karma to get me outa Mexico anytime . Front SA brgs, rear FD brgs, and now the DS have failed . The original DS lasted 65,000, ammazzing miles . Looking at 10 to 20,000 miles of riding between the misery of maintaining that driveline is not enough IMO . For $342. delivered, a complete pivot pins to wheel bolts, drive line from a mono RT has arrived here . $342, along with the machine cost I can't handle and the professional wheel build, lie ahead . One such guy outlined the project on ADVR, many thanks, he spent $1500 . This plan has become my way of dealing with paragoricdriveshaft short falls, if it happens inside $1500, I'll be thrilled . My caper south of the border this year is off . One orig DS in vg condition one needing rebuilt, 2 FD's and 2 SAs', the Ohlins 541 . Are about to hit the market, as a result of this desision . I wake at night since this escapade began, with thoughts of this para DS crapping out in the frontier between San Cristobal and Chetumal, on a 110 degree day . Or on the mile high dirt roads of Oaxaca, down into Tapachula . At those temps, and in those locals, where are you to find a "heatgun" or "torch", Just to get it apart ? If in fact you locktite the steel pin to the alum housing ? That's why a year back I began using permatex and marking the pin, with daily inspections . Yesterdays AirMail arrived with another guy asking Oak what to do with the stripped out threads in his gs SA . Along with another gs guy who's rear u-joint failed . I am moving forward by heading rearward at this point . It's been a 3 year crash course in the gs mode . The mc was coined Karma, when the SA bearings went away in Cumberland, Md. after 20k in Mexico . The name was changed to "KarmaNewt" after the FD bearings went away in Richmond, enroute home from Mexico the next year . Karma, because she always gets me home . Newt becuase working on/with it is like dealing with Newt Gingrich the ex unyeilding speaker of the house . Thanks again

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