R100RT vs R100R Oil Pans/Oil Capacities

[R100RT Mark]

My 1993 R100R has the standard shallow “off-road” type oil pan with threaded holes to mount a bash plate. The standard “road” pan on my 1994 R100RT is about 15mm deeper with, by my calculation, approx. 450ml higher capacity. On the R100R I do not need the extra ground clearance benefits of the shallower pan and I’m never going to mount a bash plate. Therefore, I am thinking about changing over to the deeper “road” pan, and changing the oil pick up to suit, to get the benefit of the extra oil capacity. It is not that my riding is particularly aggressive, but this summer has been brutally hot in Atlanta and I figure if my RT “needs” the extra oil capacity surely so must my R? After all, oil is cheap.

I know this gets a little more complicated as the dipstick markings on the R are higher than the RT – maybe this is why the R tends to blow a little oil out and seems to settle between the “max” and “min” whereas the RT sits happily at “max”? The difference in markings seems to be about 6mm, which means if I were to change to an RT dipstick, then the net oil capacity gain would be less at about 270ml or so (vs. 450ml).

Thoughts, please. Thanks.

Mark

[supershaft]

It's around a extra pint. I think it could use the extra oil as well as the extra crankcase volume. It's win/win situation.

[Sniper X]

Haw hard is it to put a R100RS pan and oil cooler on it? Where does the R100RS oil cooler tap into on the motor? Oil FIlter?

[Airhead Wrangler]

Anton has already done all the investigation you need. No need to reinvent the wheel:

http://largiader.com/tech/oilpan/

[AntonLargiader]

I have the deep pan and sump on my R100R. As you said, I don't need the ground clearance and it's a motor I tend to run at high RPM so I want the lower oil level.

[supershaft]

I would want the increased oil capacity too. That advantage seems to be glossed over by a lot of airhead types on the net.

[R100RT Mark]

Originally Posted by AntonLargiader

I have the deep pan and sump on my R100R. As you said, I don't need the ground clearance and it's a motor I tend to run at high RPM so I want the lower oil level.

Originally Posted by supershaft

I would want the increased oil capacity too. That advantage seems to be glossed over by a lot of airhead types on the net.

Glad my thought process makes sense to the masses. Have already tracked a down good used pan and dip stick, and will probably just go with a new intake. Should have the parts cleaned and gaskets ready to do the conversion at the next oil change. Thanks for all the input.

Mark

[ducsingle]

Haw hard is it to put a R100RS pan and oil cooler on it? Where does the R100RS oil cooler tap into on the motor? Oil FIlter?

An R100R already has an oil cooler.

I'm planning the same oil pan swap on my R100R.

I was considering adding an oil pan spacer so I could add an oil temperature sensor input for my Vapor computer, but it would be one more useless bit of information I wouldn't look at, so not much point.

[supershaft]

Originally Posted by ducsingle

An R100R already has an oil cooler.

I'm planning the same oil pan swap on my R100R.

I was considering adding an oil pan spacer so I could add an oil temperature sensor input for my Vapor computer, but it would be one more useless bit of information I wouldn't look at, so not much point.

I am against those spacers for the extra gasket.

I agree that an oil temp sensor is pretty much useless information especially since most think a good, normal oil temp is way too high. It's oil, not water! and it needs to get rid of a LOT of water!

[supershaft]

Install the gasket clean and dry. Use an inch pound torque wrench and go round and round until they are all tight AT THE SAME TIME. Ride it 100 miles and re-torque them. Then another 100 miles and re-torque them. Then about once a year. Use silicon on the bolt threads right underneath the filter. The threads go through the case to the oil!

[R100RT Mark]

I am getting ready to swap the stock “620” low capacity oil pan on my 1993 R100R with a higher capacity “995” oil plan from a late 1980’s airhead (I have the matching “44 mm” oil pickup/pump strainer and “A” dipstick as well).

Three questions.

The screen/perforated plate on the oil pickup/pump strainer is dished. From playing with my replacement parts it looks like it should dish outwards away from the oil pickup/pump strainer. Correct?

Is there any trick to getting the wire strap/bail that retains the screen/perforated plate on and off the oil pickup/pump strainer?

Snowbum talks about ensuring the pan is attached using “waverly” locking washers. I assume he is talking about what McMaster-Carr calls “wave” washers as pictured here. Correct?

Help appreciated. Thanks.

Mark