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Old 06-25-2012, 04:39 PM   #1
Beaming OP
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BMW Final Drive Oil

I was over at Sierra BMW the other day inquiring about final drive oil. The guys in the shop told me that they just got a lower cost oil for the final drive. It is a BMW labeled oil. The cost 22.90 for a liter bottle. The label reads:

BMW Group
Final Drive Gear Oil
C-SAF-XO
SAE 75W-90
P/N 07 51 2 293 972

On the back it says API GL-5
Made in USA
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:57 PM   #2
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Old 06-25-2012, 05:03 PM   #3
roadtrip22
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I still like my royal purple 75w-90 gear oil. for half that price. plus the color helps if i start getting leaks.
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Old 06-25-2012, 05:36 PM   #4
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Super Tech 75w-140 GL-5, ~$8.00/quart. Ad some moly and you've got a good, low cost GL-5.
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Old 06-25-2012, 05:44 PM   #5
RichieBoone
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I am about to do mine, first time...new '12 gsa
75w-90 or 75w-140? I was thinking about getting the Royal Purple too?

would this work for the transmission?
http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-0...xgy_01_02_t_lh
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Old 06-25-2012, 06:55 PM   #6
roadtrip22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichieBoone View Post
I am about to do mine, first time...new '12 gsa
75w-90 or 75w-140? I was thinking about getting the Royal Purple too?

would this work for the transmission?
http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-0...xgy_01_02_t_lh

I got royal purple in the trans too. I think i got the same can't remember have to look at the bottle but i believe i have 75w-140 in the trans and 75w-90 in FD. works well.
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:38 PM   #7
def
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Originally Posted by roadtrip22 View Post
I got royal purple in the trans too. I think i got the same can't remember have to look at the bottle but i believe i have 75w-140 in the trans and 75w-90 in FD. works well.
$18.00 for a quart of GL-5? No thanks.
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Old 06-25-2012, 06:12 PM   #8
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I just did my FD oil back in april with Royal Purple 85W 140.
Seems to be fine so far! Should do really well if you do long rides, and ride
in alot of hot weather.
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:44 PM   #9
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WOW, an oil thread...I'm curious as well......I need to replace the spring air in the Anakee's and replace it with summer air.....whatcha ya'll think?
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:56 PM   #10
roadtrip22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyboy08 View Post
WOW, an oil thread...I'm curious as well......I need to replace the spring air in the Anakee's and replace it with summer air.....whatcha ya'll think?

I'd stay away from city air who knows whats in it.
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:03 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyboy08 View Post
WOW, an oil thread...I'm curious as well......I need to replace the spring air in the Anakee's and replace it with summer air.....whatcha ya'll think?
Go to your nearest General Aviation airport, remove the air and fill with nitrogen...the tires will last longer and your ride will improve.


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Old 06-26-2012, 12:35 PM   #12
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Red Line will ruin your seals.

Use dyno.
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Red Line will ruin your seals.
Now are you referring to something like this?

bobistheoilguy's page on Esters In Synthetic Lubricants

Quote:
As with any product, there are also downsides to esters. The most common concern when formulating with ester basestocks is compatibility with the elastomer material used in the seals. All esters will tend to swell and soften most elastomer seals however, the degree to which they do so can be controlled through proper selection. When seal swell is desirable, such as in balancing the seal shrinkage and hardening characteristics of PAOs, more polar esters should be used such as those with lower molecular weight and/or higher number of ester linkages. When used as the exclusive basestock, the ester should be designed for compatibility with seals or the seals should be changed to those types which are more compatible with esters.
I've used Amsoil and Mobile1 in the past and a friend of mine is trying hard to convert me to Red Line which uses an ester based stock. Naturally I would have thought an oil that is made for motorcycles would take this 'seal issue' into account. But I would also like to hear more...

I'm not against using dyno oil (in fact using it now), but synthetic's additives I believe are better as far as temperature goes etc.... that is the main reason for me in going in that direction as soon as this bike is broken in.

Thanks
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Old 06-27-2012, 04:09 AM   #14
I GS 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WindSailor View Post
Now are you referring to something like this?

bobistheoilguy's page on Esters In Synthetic Lubricants



I've used Amsoil and Mobile1 in the past and a friend of mine is trying hard to convert me to Red Line which uses an ester based stock. Naturally I would have thought an oil that is made for motorcycles would take this 'seal issue' into account. But I would also like to hear more...

I'm not against using dyno oil (in fact using it now), but synthetic's additives I believe are better as far as temperature goes etc.... that is the main reason for me in going in that direction as soon as this bike is broken in.

Thanks
Redline Oils make a point of their oils being designed to be compatible with seals designed for use with petroleum products. I used Redline 75W-90 in my 1150GS final drive for the last 60,000km before the bearing needed replacement at 93,000km and the seal was still perfect (by the way, so was the cage).
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:22 AM   #15
Dan-M
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WindSailor View Post
Now are you referring to something like this?

bobistheoilguy's page on Esters In Synthetic Lubricants



I've used Amsoil and Mobile1 in the past and a friend of mine is trying hard to convert me to Red Line which uses an ester based stock. Naturally I would have thought an oil that is made for motorcycles would take this 'seal issue' into account. But I would also like to hear more...

I'm not against using dyno oil (in fact using it now), but synthetic's additives I believe are better as far as temperature goes etc.... that is the main reason for me in going in that direction as soon as this bike is broken in.

Thanks
Any good synthetic GL5 is fine. Change it regularly and you will not have a lubrication related failure.

As for Red Line, I've used it in my Guzzi trans and bevel drive for many years with no issues. It actually improved shifting. I ran it in may RT trans also without any issues.
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