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Old 07-31-2012, 08:58 PM   #1
wario OP
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01 r1150gs thoughts

I need help from the GSpot inmates as this could be my first 2 wheel BMW purchase...

Found a 2001 1150gs with ~75k mile, well appointed and cared for, and being brokered by a very reputable dealer. Price seems in line - now, what do I look for- issue wise? Wants: smooth, reliable, comfortable single and two up riding. Pans: I don't want a maintenance queen.... Need great mile eating capabilities, city and highway.

I'm a very seasoned rider, dirt and street. Had many bikes, currently only have a oldWing, just sold my dl1k to a friend.

I'd be greatly indebted for some honest advice and direction.
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:17 PM   #2
SourKraut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wario View Post
I don't want a maintenance queen.... Need great mile eating capabilities, city and highway.
You had better hope that the previous owner had the opposite attitude if you are buying a 75K mile GS.
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:31 PM   #3
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Interesting question 'cus I purchased an '01 R1150GS with just 21k total miles less than a month ago (advertised here but I'd already seen the moto). Lately, I seem to be buying older low mileage motos rather than new, which had been my usual for the prior 40 yrs. Mine is in fine overall mechanical condition with very few minor cosmetic warts (hey, I am anal), but 75k miles on the one you are considering would deter me unless priced right and all service records provided.
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:26 PM   #4
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Only the basics

Apart from all the basic stuff like service records, smoking engine, excessive or unusual noise (good luck with that one), brake smoothness, rideability etc, the only other worthwhile check is the rear wheel play at 12/6 and 3/9 positions. Any bike that rides fine can have issues about to rear their head. I doubt the dealer will allow you to drop rear drive oils, or check splines, or do any other sort of tear-down. Second hand? Good condition? Reputable dealer? You still take your chances unless you get an iron-clad warrenty period that covers all mechanical failures in the first x months or x miles. That is something we don't get here with second-hand motorcycles.

Best thing you can do is go through the existing records and confirm any major issues in the past. If the records are just book stamps on service intervals, or no records, then it had better be cheap enough to cover any realistic potential failure. Can you contact the last owner? That's always a good thing to do here, if the records identify them and the dealer is willing to put you in contact.
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Old 08-01-2012, 04:37 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SourKraut View Post
You had better hope that the previous owner had the opposite attitude if you are buying a 75K mile GS.
I'll ind out more today...

Quote:
Originally Posted by MIXR View Post
Apart from all the basic stuff like service records, smoking engine, excessive or unusual noise (good luck with that one), brake smoothness, rideability etc, the only other worthwhile check is the rear wheel play at 12/6 and 3/9 positions. Any bike that rides fine can have issues about to rear their head. I doubt the dealer will allow you to drop rear drive oils, or check splines, or do any other sort of tear-down. Second hand? Good condition? Reputable dealer? You still take your chances unless you get an iron-clad warrenty period that covers all mechanical failures in the first x months or x miles. That is something we don't get here with second-hand motorcycles.

Best thing you can do is go through the existing records and confirm any major issues in the past. If the records are just book stamps on service intervals, or no records, then it had better be cheap enough to cover any realistic potential failure. Can you contact the last owner? That's always a good thing to do here, if the records identify them and the dealer is willing to put you in contact.
I'm sure that I'll be be able to get at records if they re available, also access to the PO... If not, then I'm one. But like I said the dealer truly is iron clad. Do dealers offer warranties on bikes this old? I was thinking of making a run at him on this too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Effjay View Post
Interesting question 'cus I purchased an '01 R1150GS with just 21k total miles less than a month ago (advertised here but I'd already seen the moto). Lately, I seem to be buying older low mileage motos rather than new, which had been my usual for the prior 40 yrs. Mine is in fine overall mechanical condition with very few minor cosmetic warts (hey, I am anal), but 75k miles on the one you are considering would deter me unless priced right and all service records provided.
What would be a right price?

Thanks ya'll
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Old 08-01-2012, 08:22 AM   #6
Effjay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wario View Post
What would be a right price?
Unsure - especially purchased from a dealer. Maybe others have thoughts on that considering stated mileage. Without documented records on service aspects listed by others, I'd want to hold back $$ from "market price" (whatever that is for 11+ yrs old) towards cost of repairs. I probably paid a little too much for mine but at 22k miles now (see new pics in 1150GS thread), it seems unlikely I'll have serious mechanical issues anytime soon.
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Old 08-01-2012, 12:19 PM   #7
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the original rubber brake lines are prone to failure around this year (mine did).
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Old 08-01-2012, 06:04 AM   #8
PETDOC
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Some things you should ask:
1) Were the rear pivot bearings routinely serviced? If not they need to be replaced.
2) Were the brake hoses changed-when? Rubber lines degrade. I've seen a recommend replacement interval of 7 years.
3) Was the left sided cam chain tensioner upgraded?
4) Were the zip ties near the steering head loosened to keep from breaking wires in the harness?
5) Are these the stock shocks? If so you will need to replace for optimal ride.
6) Do all bars on the gas gauge appear? Simple fix-clean the electrical connector; more difficult fix-go to Hall of WISDOM
Parts that have an increased risk of failure--be nice to know if ever replaced:
1) Clutch slave cylinder/rear input seal
2) Hall effect sensor
3) Starter
4) Rear drive big bearing
5) Metal attachment of clutch line to slave cylinder-corrodes and wiil leak
Really nice accessory if available
1) Touratech hard part to prevent front forks from breaking steering stops and denting tank during a drop
Places to check for cracks
1) Lower mount of front shock where it attaches to the telelever suspension
2) Rear frame part which holds rear seat and extends as short rack-if overloaded it will crack
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PETDOC screwed with this post 08-06-2012 at 06:56 AM
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Old 08-01-2012, 07:04 AM   #9
wario OP
good bike cleaner...
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PETDOC View Post
Some things you should ask:
1) Were the rear pivot bearings routinely serviced? If not they need to be replaced.
2) Were the brake hoses changed-when? Rubber lines degrade. I've seen a recommend replacement interval of 7 years.
3) Was the left sided cam chain tensioner upgraded?
4) Were the zip ties near the steering head loosened to keep from breaking wires in the harness?
5) Are these the stock shocks? If so you will need to replace for optimal ride.
Parts that have an increased risk of failure--be nice to know if ever replaced:
1) Clutch slave cylinder/rear input seal
2) Hall effect sensor
3) Starter
4) Rear drive big bearing
Really nice accessory if available
1) Touratech hard part to prevent front forks from breaking steering stops and denting tank during a drop
Places to check for cracks
1) Lower mount of front shock where it attaches to the telelever suspension
2) Rear frame part which holds rear seat and extends as short rack-if overloaded it will crack
Great info - I appreciate it.
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Old 08-03-2012, 01:03 PM   #10
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Eek

Quote:
Originally Posted by PETDOC View Post
Some things you should ask:
1) Were the rear pivot bearings routinely serviced? If not they need to be replaced.
2) Were the brake hoses changed-when? Rubber lines degrade. I've seen a recommend replacement interval of 7 years.
3) Was the left sided cam chain tensioner upgraded?
4) Were the zip ties near the steering head loosened to keep from breaking wires in the harness?
5) Are these the stock shocks? If so you will need to replace for optimal ride.
Parts that have an increased risk of failure--be nice to know if ever replaced:
1) Clutch slave cylinder/rear input seal
2) Hall effect sensor
3) Starter
4) Rear drive big bearing
Really nice accessory if available
1) Touratech hard part to prevent front forks from breaking steering stops and denting tank during a drop
Places to check for cracks
1) Lower mount of front shock where it attaches to the telelever suspension
2) Rear frame part which holds rear seat and extends as short rack-if overloaded it will crack
Wow... This is why I'll never sell my bike, even if I eventually purchase another. At 100K miles, I only now just replaced the stock shocks with aftermarket items. Never touched any of the rest of the items in this list. Only time the shop ever did maintenance on my bike was when I couldn't down shift from 2nd to 1st, and it ended up being some adjustment in the shift mechanism (thought it was going to be something deeper in the trans). I have no complaints about handling, performance or other issues. But this makes me feel like one day the damn thing will disintegrate underneath me on the freeway!
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Old 08-06-2012, 06:50 AM   #11
PETDOC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmytacist View Post
Wow... This is why I'll never sell my bike, even if I eventually purchase another. At 100K miles, I only now just replaced the stock shocks with aftermarket items. Never touched any of the rest of the items in this list. Only time the shop ever did maintenance on my bike was when I couldn't down shift from 2nd to 1st, and it ended up being some adjustment in the shift mechanism (thought it was going to be something deeper in the trans). I have no complaints about handling, performance or other issues. But this makes me feel like one day the damn thing will disintegrate underneath me on the freeway!
You may want to look at posts#12 &14 on this link http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61887
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Old 11-18-2012, 12:25 AM   #12
vintagerider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmytacist View Post
Wow... This is why I'll never sell my bike, even if I eventually purchase another. At 100K miles, I only now just replaced the stock shocks with aftermarket items. Never touched any of the rest of the items in this list. Only time the shop ever did maintenance on my bike was when I couldn't down shift from 2nd to 1st, and it ended up being some adjustment in the shift mechanism (thought it was going to be something deeper in the trans). I have no complaints about handling, performance or other issues. But this makes me feel like one day the damn thing will disintegrate underneath me on the freeway!
If it were mine the following routine wear items mentioned by mmytacist would be on my list:
clutch slave(check and lube bearing at minimum)
clutch hose
dump killer rubber brake hoses
standard lubrication/adjustments
clean, lube starter

I carry a spare HES and FD bearing/seal. Typically many of the high cost
repair parts like brake rotors, hoses, mcyl have all been done at 50-60k. Clutch slave seems to last 60k. Lower hose banjo prob rusted.

All mileage is by no means the same. Listen to and ride the beast before reaching any conclusions. Some will be tight at 80k others at 20k over-heated or abused. When considering a mc of this vintage actual documented condition is everything. Deferred maint items add up quick- worth paying $1k-2k for exceptionally well maintained.

Smooth shifting quiet gear box and wheels are always at the top of the list.
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Old 08-01-2012, 07:27 AM   #13
bikes&guitars
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01 gs

PM'd you...
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Old 08-01-2012, 03:43 PM   #14
tagesk
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After having taken a 2000 model 170.000 km (well over 100.000 miles) I bought a 2001 model 13 month ago, It had a mere 40.000 km on it.
On the "new" one I have replaced the brake lines, the clutch pump, the output seal from the trans and the input seal in the FD. All these are "typical". For the input to the FD you need a special tool, so bring the FD to a BMW shop and they'll do it for you in minutes. The rest is simple.

We're just back from a 13.000 km trip with a lot of luggage (540 kg gross!) and have covered 40.000 km since I bought it. Fully expect it to last another 50.000 km without major repair.

Or, if you like: I would not hesitate to buy a 75K miles bike if it looks as if it has been taken care of.

[TaSK]
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Old 08-01-2012, 08:06 PM   #15
wario OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tagesk View Post


After having taken a 2000 model 170.000 km (well over 100.000 miles) I bought a 2001 model 13 month ago, It had a mere 40.000 km on it.
On the "new" one I have replaced the brake lines, the clutch pump, the output seal from the trans and the input seal in the FD. All these are "typical". For the input to the FD you need a special tool, so bring the FD to a BMW shop and they'll do it for you in minutes. The rest is simple.

We're just back from a 13.000 km trip with a lot of luggage (540 kg gross!) and have covered 40.000 km since I bought it. Fully expect it to last another 50.000 km without major repair.

Or, if you like: I would not hesitate to buy a 75K miles bike if it looks as if it has been taken care of.

[TaSK]
cool... I'm finding out more about the bike, and can talk with the owner. It's been fed amsol since birth and is well fitted. Not a bad price either. I also found an 04 with less miles, less farkles, and is less money...
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