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Old 09-20-2012, 05:30 AM   #1
Ghilli OP
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Wicked Another R80g/s build, just slower

Hi Everyone

I've allready started the rebuild of my 1981 R80g/s, but with the amout of hours I've allready put in I feel I should share some of it, even if it is only to see my own photos.

So here goes, this was my g/s in one piece 2 years back, it is in about 200 pieces right now.



I needed to replace the oil pump seal as it started to leak too much, wich I left as it is quite a big job. So in the process of removing the gearbox I decided I might as well do the whole thing (complete motorcycle I mean), and an hour after my well thought trough plan...



Ghilli screwed with this post 09-20-2012 at 08:55 AM
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:22 PM   #2
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Now, that's a way to enter Advrider!
Start looks good, can't wait to see the next steps.
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:39 PM   #3
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Nice start! Take lots of photos... I@ll be doing the same thing soon enough.
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Old 09-20-2012, 11:10 PM   #4
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Ghilli fortunately you are an engineer!!!
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:09 AM   #5
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Thumb F.e.a.r

Even though I am one I still needed to overcome my three fears:

-Removing the gearbox
-Disconnecting every single wire and cable
-Removing the barrels and pistons
-Welding to the frame

Ok four









Obviously I had to wash it in the kitchen.

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Old 10-02-2012, 01:38 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghilli View Post
[



Obviously I had to wash it in the kitchen.
You know about the thrust washers on the crank, yes?
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Old 10-02-2012, 02:53 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by goatroper View Post
You know about the thrust washers on the crank, yes?
Aah yes, thanks, but I almost just took it apart before I accidentally read about it.

I took a few spacers the same thickness as the ring gear and screwed back the original bolts, this keeps the front and back clear without the worries of the thrust washers slipping out. But to put the spacers in, I had to block the crank from the front.
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:18 AM   #8
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Valve heads

Now for the some cool stuff, or not, can't decide.

I took my valve heads to an engineering workshop where they told me all four my valves needs to be replaced, that hurts allot. I did some research and it turned out that the custom stainless steel valves the engineering shop makes would cost the same as ordering new ones online, and the BMW dealer was just too expensive. So I thought the stainless valves would be a nice thing to do.







If you cant tell that the outside fins are ceramic coated, its a good thing, trying to keep the look original. The coating is a ceramic heat dissipating one and helps with increase heat transfer and corrosion.

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Old 10-08-2012, 04:43 AM   #9
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Pistons

Here are some photos of the three stages of piston, they are on the lower side of their wear limit with the barrels, but if it took 30 years to get to that point I am more than happy to put them back in. If they reach the point where they need to be replaced, I would definitely not go stock, I would upgrade to the 1000cc conversion. But that's a lot of maaanie.





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Old 10-09-2012, 08:45 AM   #10
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Barrrels and tubes

The barrels and tubes are both coated with a ceramic coating. These parts take a beating from the road, so putting something durable on them makes sense to me.







These are the coated and finished barrels ready for assembly.



Two of the tubes has a lot of pitting I presume from sand and stuff from the front wheel, they seem to be steel so not coating them was not an option.



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Old 10-15-2012, 05:20 AM   #11
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Disc

The disc is a bit of an experiment, I got the front hub ceramic coated and coated the disc with VHT engine enamel. The idea is to see how they handle all that brake dust, some brake fluid and road conditions and compare the coatings next to each other.

This is the renevation and DIY spraying of the disc.



Just cleaned



And the painted hub



Ceramic coated hub.



And here are some more parts I got coated.



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Old 10-15-2012, 05:32 AM   #12
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Engine enamel

Painting the engine scared me a bit, but living near the coast and seeing how things corrode as you wach made me do it with a smile.

I masked off the areas not to be painted and prepped the parts for painting, it looks pretty nice, I hope I did the curing process properly.



I baked it a few times, in a box, and it seemed to be working.



Most of the painted parts were only on the outside surface.



And this is where I am now, a lot of work and really not much to show for it.

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Old 10-15-2012, 07:05 AM   #13
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What is the heat disapating ceramic coating?
The only ceramics I have any experience with are in exhaust coating and increase the exhaust velocity by retaining the heat.
Is that the bake temperature showing on the dial thermometer?
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:44 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rucksta View Post
What is the heat disapating ceramic coating?
The only ceramics I have any experience with are in exhaust coating and increase the exhaust velocity by retaining the heat.
Is that the bake temperature showing on the dial thermometer?
It is a coating that helps with heat transfer where the other type ceramic coating reduces heat transfer, I made pretty sure of this because I don't want to trap heat in the barrel and "lock" the heat inside. That is the bake temperature I baked at when I was curing the engine enamel. The instructions on the can said 93C, but I made it a little more to be safe.
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:59 AM   #15
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Barrel bolts

Soooo, I realized that there's a difference between the stud bolts that goes into the engine for the barrels. 6 of them are the same and then there is two odd ones.



I did not pay attention at all when I was taking it apart and did not see where they came out off. If I had to guess, they fit into the two rear holes on the right hand side of the engine, that's the two in the left of the picture with the deep thread?

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