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Old 10-09-2012, 11:54 AM   #1
BOB RAMSAY OP
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Granville, Ohio
Oddometer: 294
Rear brake - way too weak (950)

My rear brake is about 5% effective - actually, more like 0%, as I cannot stop the bike, even under 10mph.

A little history:

2006 950 Adventure
OEM pads/rotor, 24k miles (all road).
Pads 6mm thick.
Had a light oil contamination on pads/rotor last week (don't ask. . . ).
Pulled, cleaned and sanded pads and sanded rotor today. Nada.
Fluid changed summer 2010. Free play is good.
There is some pressure at pedal, no pressure being applied to the rotor.

Can the wheel cylinder 'blow by' the seals when the brake is applied?



Any help would be appreciated. Thx -
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:01 PM   #2
Off Road Ryder
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personally I like sintered Iron brake pads,They bite hard, but do wear your disk.
Im always draging my rear brake, (bad habits are hard to break) I replace my fluid about once a month, Its amazing how quick the fluid can go to crap.
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Old 10-10-2012, 03:53 AM   #3
K2m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyclops Motorsports View Post
personally I like sintered Iron brake pads,They bite hard, but do wear your disk.
Im always draging my rear brake, (bad habits are hard to break) I replace my fluid about once a month, Its amazing how quick the fluid can go to crap.
This bike more than any other for some reason. Motul 600. Raceing car stuff changed as regularly as necessary depending on your riding style. That's how I do it after the upgraded parts were fitted. I do mine once a year.
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Old 10-09-2012, 01:03 PM   #4
veesquared
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Freeplay

Assuming you do not have air in the lines from a tip over . Can you lock the rear wheel on asphalt? Try cleaning the rotor again with your favorite solvent . You might find that you have squeezed out more oil. If no go them I too would go with a different compound. 6mm must be pretty close to new.
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Old 10-25-2012, 06:21 AM   #5
BOB RAMSAY OP
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Fixed - air in the brake line!

Quote:
Originally Posted by veesquared View Post
Assuming you do not have air in the lines from a tip over . Can you lock the rear wheel on asphalt? Try cleaning the rotor again with your favorite solvent . You might find that you have squeezed out more oil. If no go them I too would go with a different compound. 6mm must be pretty close to new.
I kept your comment in mind as I've waited 2+ weeks for a brake cylinder rebuild kit (still back ordered 3+ more weeks)

My bike did tip over, just against a wall - no more than a 45 degee lean angle. Still, the brake system was never 'breeched' so I don't how air would have been introduced to brake system.
Yesterday, I bled the rear brake - Voila! Went ahead and flushed out the old brake fluid with new DOT 5.1

My background is with enduro and off-road riding. I've had bikes up-side-down (and worse!) Never considered the 950 being tipped over to be the culprit.
Whether is was or not - IT WORKED.

Thanks for input. I've been able to do some repairs with simple wisdom from the inmates. Other suggestions seem like the end of the world could near (financially). So, when I need help, I'll take all who take the time to post/comment.

Reminds me of Occam's Razor: it goes something like this: "other things being equal, a simpler explanation is better than a more complex one."[


Thx - Bob
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:08 AM   #6
howl
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Location: West Sussex Blighty
Oddometer: 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by BOB RAMSAY View Post
I kept your comment in mind as I've waited 2+ weeks for a brake cylinder rebuild kit (still back ordered 3+ more weeks)

My bike did tip over, just against a wall - no more than a 45 degee lean angle. Still, the brake system was never 'breeched' so I don't how air would have been introduced to brake system.
Yesterday, I bled the rear brake - Voila! Went ahead and flushed out the old brake fluid with new DOT 5.1

My background is with enduro and off-road riding. I've had bikes up-side-down (and worse!) Never considered the 950 being tipped over to be the culprit.
Whether is was or not - IT WORKED.


Thanks for input. I've been able to do some repairs with simple wisdom from the inmates. Other suggestions seem like the end of the world could near (financially). So, when I need help, I'll take all who take the time to post/comment.

Reminds me of Occam's Razor: it goes something like this: "other things being equal, a simpler explanation is better than a more complex one."[


Thx - Bob
Hi Bob Is it ok to use 5.1 ?
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:02 AM   #7
mgorman
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Location: Massillon, Ohio
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Doing some investigating on brakes of various machines I have, I am coming to the conclusion that the master cylinder on the 950 is using to large of a piston and pushing the pucks too fast. One pump shouldn't push the pads all the way out after being pressed in half way.

Upon further tinkering, I also found my pucks are cracking and flaking away around the edges. Hope to rebuild the caliper some time soon.
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Old 10-09-2012, 01:19 PM   #8
crofrog
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Annapolis Maryland
Oddometer: 1,455
Quote:
Originally Posted by BOB RAMSAY View Post
My rear brake is about 5% effective - actually, more like 0%, as I cannot stop the bike, even under 10mph.

A little history:

2006 950 Adventure
OEM pads/rotor, 24k miles (all road).
Pads 6mm thick.
Had a light oil contamination last week (don't ask. . . ).
Pulled, cleaned and sanded pads and sanded rotor today. Nada.
Fluid changed summer 2010. Free play is good.
The pads seem to be a darker (gray) as opposed to the 'bronze' color of fresh pads.

My use of the rear brake is an afterthought, growing up on dirt bikes. But, at times, every little bit counts.
I've noticed the brake being weak before the oil contamination. I always assumed the brake was designed 'weak' for off-road use. But, what do I know. . . ?

Any help would be appreciated. Thx -
2010, I do that like every 6 months...
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Old 10-09-2012, 07:58 PM   #9
Bgunn
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Location: Rockford Wa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crofrog View Post
2010, I do that like every 6 months...

A fluid change brought my rear brake back to life.
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Old 10-25-2012, 07:50 AM   #10
K2m
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Joined: Feb 2005
Location: Sydney Australia
Oddometer: 2,242
Quote:
Originally Posted by crofrog View Post
2010, I do that like every 6 months...
Plus one

Simple things must be eliminated first. This will be the problem. This brake runs very hot, this creates moisture in the fluid which turns to air...... no brake.

I do mine every 12months......
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Old 10-09-2012, 01:29 PM   #11
txbear55
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New pads....
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Old 10-09-2012, 03:10 PM   #12
Sporting Wood
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Location: Horneytown, NC
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Galfer Green pads! Stock ones absolutely blow!
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Old 10-09-2012, 03:50 PM   #13
Roughidle
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Location: Brooklyn, NY, Earth, Sol System, UNIVERSE!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOB RAMSAY View Post
My rear brake is about 5% effective - actually, more like 0%, as I cannot stop the bike, even under 10mph.

A little history:

2006 950 Adventure
OEM pads/rotor, 24k miles (all road).
Pads 6mm thick.
Had a light oil contamination last week (don't ask. . . ).
Pulled, cleaned and sanded pads and sanded rotor today. Nada.
Fluid changed summer 2010. Free play is good.
The pads seem to be a darker (gray) as opposed to the 'bronze' color of fresh pads.

My use of the rear brake is an afterthought, growing up on dirt bikes. But, at times, every little bit counts.
I've noticed the brake being weak before the oil contamination. I always assumed the brake was designed 'weak' for off-road use. But, what do I know. . . ?

Any help would be appreciated. Thx -
Must be some different riding styles out there, I grew up on dirt bikes in Michigan and I used the rear brake ALL the time. Too much front brake = lowside. But I digress, that isn't really what the post is about.

Did you ever get the reservoir diaphragm upgrade? KTM sent out a service bulletin about it back in 07 IIRC (took my 06 950a in for it). The bulletin called for a new diaphragm, and a rear brake bleed.

If I was in your shoes, I'd ensure I have the upgraded diaphragm, pick up a new set of galfer pads as others have suggested, and properly bleed the brakes.

You can check it for "blow by" or leaking cylinder seals by doing the following:
Pump the rear pedal 3-4 times and hold pressure on it, if it starts to slowly move as you apply pressure, then it needs a rebuild. If it stays in the same position after you pump it a few times and hold it, then the cylinder is fine.

Ideally, you should be able to lock the rear brake on dry pavement on these bikes, I was always able too with my 950.
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Old 10-09-2012, 05:43 PM   #14
Mttodd
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Location: Billings, Mt
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Bought my 06 last summer and would like to know how to identify the improved diaphragm. If I do have the old version is the new one expensive, or supplied like a recall? Noticed that my rear brake pedal has a lot of play before it engages. It does not have any adjustment like the newer models, and was looking for some pointers.
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Old 10-09-2012, 06:35 PM   #15
Roughidle
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Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Brooklyn, NY, Earth, Sol System, UNIVERSE!
Oddometer: 1,494
Brake TSB with pics: http://cpmodem.smugmug.com/gallery/2...944527&k=PppNc

From here: http://www.ktm950.info/

Just bookmark the HOW link. I actually copied all the articles into a big book when I had my 950, just in case. \ Big props to CPmodem as always.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mttodd View Post
Bought my 06 last summer and would like to know how to identify the improved diaphragm. If I do have the old version is the new one expensive, or supplied like a recall? Noticed that my rear brake pedal has a lot of play before it engages. It does not have any adjustment like the newer models, and was looking for some pointers.
Really? Aren't there adjustment nuts on the pushrod? It's been a while, and I could be wrong, but I thought there were adjustment nuts on the pushrod. I seem to remember adjusting the pedal height after installing new/ lower pegs.
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Roughidle screwed with this post 10-09-2012 at 06:49 PM
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