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Old 11-03-2012, 11:19 PM   #1
640Pilot OP
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Location: Bayside, Brisbane. Australia
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Wheel Balancing

Guys just a quick question,
I've just finished setting up my spare set of drop on wheels for the 950 with my off road tyres, 908RR front, Mitas E09 Enduro rear....just wondered before fitting what you guys do for balancing.

The standard Scorpion 50/50's that were on the bike when I got it aren't balanced and even at speed it doesn't seems an issue, so I'm guessing just get em on and go hard...is that the norm...?

Ride Safe, orange side toward the sun
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Old 11-04-2012, 03:10 AM   #2
Lc8grrr
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Without rimlocks you really don't need to balance them particularly over 20psi.
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:32 AM   #3
groovyspuds
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I've never balanced mine and have no issues.
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:11 AM   #4
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I don't run rim locks on my 950s, Never balanced the tires. Many miles with out any issues.

Just swap them on and ride. You'll have them burned off soon enough.
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:37 AM   #5
folknride
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RideOn

I recently put RideOn in all my tires, both 50/50 and dirt - works great. Really smoothed out the road vibe on my 690, the 990 is smooth as silk, and I get some puncture/blowout protection to boot.
(But if you never ride at speed on slab, why bother)
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Old 11-09-2012, 02:40 PM   #6
Central Cali Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by folknride View Post
I recently put RideOn in all my tires, both 50/50 and dirt - works great. Really smoothed out the road vibe on my 690, the 990 is smooth as silk, and I get some puncture/blowout protection to boot.
(But if you never ride at speed on slab, why bother)

Interesting Stuff. Anyone else have experience.. Not that I don't trust you FOLKNRIDE
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Old 11-04-2012, 09:00 AM   #7
max2
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I balance all of my wheels, nothing is perfect out of the factory. Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive wheel balancer. An old desert racer gave me a tip for the weights. Use thick gage lead solder and wrap it around the spoke and nipple. Coil it around the nipple/spoke and cinch it down with pliers. It works great and never flys off. On our big heavy rims and tires, you might have to wrap two or three spokes. I only wrap it about 3" up the spoke. The closer you get to the center of the hub the less effective the weight.
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Old 11-04-2012, 11:08 AM   #8
bloc
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I did go to the trouble of balancing my front and rear 908RRs... and the front is still trying to murder me. (headshake on hard throttle or above ~75mph)

Maybe I should pull the weight off?
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:11 PM   #9
pfdskipper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bloc View Post
I did go to the trouble of balancing my front and rear 908RRs... and the front is still trying to murder me. (headshake on hard throttle or above ~75mph)

Maybe I should pull the weight off?
Look elsewhere....like in preload setting
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Old 11-05-2012, 03:03 AM   #10
Lc8grrr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bloc View Post
I did go to the trouble of balancing my front and rear 908RRs... and the front is still trying to murder me. (headshake on hard throttle or above ~75mph)

Maybe I should pull the weight off?
Its a 908 front, thats what they do...
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Old 11-06-2012, 12:43 PM   #11
Bronco3738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bloc View Post
I did go to the trouble of balancing my front and rear 908RRs... and the front is still trying to murder me. (headshake on hard throttle or above ~75mph)

Maybe I should pull the weight off?
Give them a little time to break in. They will calm down after a few hundred miles. It's a known issue, well documented on this sight.
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Old 11-06-2012, 03:37 PM   #12
Idle
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I have the litelock? Motion Pro rimlocks.

I wrapped 1/4" rod lead weight (fishing) as mentioned above. Cept I wrapped it just once around the nipple at the rim. Then wove it around one more nipple then once around the last nipple. Then I melted the ends together with a red hot implement (while holding it all snug with pliers)

Tip, roll the lead stick weight out on a flat surface first. Then roll something over it to make it a little flat. It will hang onto the square nipple easier.


I have a HF balancer. The rod was bent but it didn't affect it's accuracy enough to matter.
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Old 11-06-2012, 04:15 PM   #13
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I'm one to let stuff run her till she blows on my bike but when it comes to wheels, I tend to go all bmw on them. When I swap rubber I always clean the crap out of them, oil the nipples, throw them in the truing stand and measure them with a dial caliper... adjust and torque up if necessary, apply a coat of wax followed by a thick coat of spray teflon mold release. I mean, even if I'm throwing on knobs that I know I'm going to burn through I just can't help but balance them too. Helps too that I have a dynamic balancer... I OCD it to the gram!
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:19 AM   #14
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More great input....I'm thinking the second rim lock might be a good idea...at least until a side of the road tyre change anyways....but still makes sense..Cheers
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:35 PM   #15
veltex
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balancing at home?

Just a couple thoughts on balancing your own self, can anyone accurately measure the inside diameter of a front and rear wheel bearing for the 990 and post here please? With that said, would a steel round bar in above diameters work for balancing at home? the bearings on the wheel would act as, um, bearings, I think. Also makes me wonder if pushing off some of the brake fluid pressure from the caliper or removing the brake pads (also chain for rear), to let the wheel spin freely, cant they be balanced right on the bike providing the wheel bearings are in good shape?
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