Possible new-to-me 1150 GSA

[Chazza]

As the title of the thread suggests, I'm on the hunt for a new ride. I'm really digging the 1150 GSA's at the moment, especially in grey.

Anyway, most of the examples I've seen so far are between 15k and 30k miles. Not that mileage bothers me hugely, however, I'm super SUPER anal (hehe, anal...) about maintenance. So, after a few futile searches, I've come here to ask a question or two.

If you guys bought a bike with an un-known un-proven history (log books are easily forged and I'll have no idea of the bike's history buying from a stranger), what would you service or replace as a matter of routine to keep the wheels rolling, so to speak.

I've got a good idea - here's my preliminary list. And yes, I know it's probably WAY over the top, but once it's done, I'll know the bike's history.

So it looks like I'll be ripping the all the calipers apart to replace the slave-cylinder seals and clean the slave cylinders themselves, full brake and clutch bleed, new pads, possible upgrade to stainless steel braided hoses, new wheel bearings, new steering stem bearings, new suspension linkage bearings (front and rear), rebuild both master cylinders, new clutch slave cylinder, new clutch plate (is a paddle-ceramic friction plate worth upgrading to?), new swing-arm bearings, gearbox oil, engine oil and filter, TB strip clean and balance, drive shaft re-grease / inspection, final drive oil, starter strip clean and re-grease, fuel filter, new handlebars, spoke tension check / adjustment / balance, valve adjustment / check, cam chain tensioner replacement and probably a tune-up on a rolling road to sort any lean-condition fuelling issues out.

I know it's a pretty long list, and much of that won't strictly be required, but as I mentioned before, I DESPISE the idea that through a simple oversight my bike could let me down somewhere remote.

And yes, if you've not figured already I'm good with tools. As a military-trained mechanic of 6 years I've had the pleasure (HA!) of working on almost everything from generators, to motorbikes, to tanks and everything in between.

So please, if there's anything I've missed off let me know. Likewise for any common problems - I don't mind playing around with wiring or stripping engines down - if I DO go ahead and buy a bike, when I'm finished doing my initial service / inspection, I want it to be more reliable than a new bike!

Thanks in advance guys,

Chaz.

[Chazza]

Oh, and since the bike will be in bits and free of oils, I'll probably glue into the gearbox and engine sumps respectively, some strong magnets. Sure, the sump-plug come magnets are handy, but I figure if you have more it's a more efficient way of attracting the filings and saving some premature wear.

Chaz.

[RetrogradE]

I love my 1150GSA.

Most of what you listed is over my pay grade, but I did the maintenance on mine and it's a snap.

The things I did to my bike that made the biggest, noticeable difference were:

1. HyperPro suspension.

2. Cat-delete with a Remus pipe. Sure it sounds better, but it shaved 20lbs and bumped the torque. If I drop a gear into a corner then hit the throttle on exit, it's mean and throaty like Bigfoot taking a dump.

The other stuff you mentioned is good too. . .

[beechhunter]

Buy it and ride it. Change oils and fluids as needed and enjoy. If it breaks fix it. Don't forget, you will need a set of worry beads to go along with your GS.

[RetrogradE]

Originally Posted by beechhunter

Buy it and ride it. Change oils and fluids as needed and enjoy. If it breaks fix it. Don't forget, you will need a set of worry beads to go along with your GS.

Worry beads? I disagree.

I've taken mine from the Baja to 8 States in 5 days--never had a problem in the rain, heat, tarmac or dirt.

[beechhunter]

Prerequisite for owning a gs, worry beads. I worried about my GS at first. Which oil, servo going out?, abs light on?. Now i just ride. 20k miles, no issues. Great bikes, you won't be disappointed.

[Chazza]

Haha, worry beads! You guys make me laugh

However, it's not a big deal for me to strip the bike down (to bare-bones in necessary) as I have a fully equipped workshop with all the tools you could ever wish for, space, heat and light. Courtesy of work, naturally!

And whats more, since I'm so damn busy with work, I rarely get any time to ride, so working late through the week / at weekends when I'm in the workshop anyway is no biggy... So when I'm out on the bike, if it breaks it pisses me off perhaps a bit more than it should.

Anyway, looks like I'll ride it around for a while and see how it goes. And since I'm already here, upgrades that you'd consider 'essential'? I like the idea of a suspension upgrade - they usually transform the bike for relatively little cash.

Chaz.

[madleemark]

i did a similar strip, check and lubricate on my bike, even though it had bmw service history and had only done 24000miles, i found nothing wrong, but fitted the later cam chain tensioner and a new battery, my bike has braided lines as standard, but would have fitted them if it did not. i felt it was worth it, given that there easy to work on and i intend keeping the bike.

[AviatorTroy]

Of you are going to do all that then just buy one with 100k on it. It still won't need it but at least it's more justifiable. And the engine will be mostly broken in by then. :)

I kidd, some of the stuff like suspension lubeing is a great idea and even if maintained by a dealer would have probably never been done.

[Night Goat]

Originally Posted by Chazza

So please, if there's anything I've missed off let me know. Likewise for any common problems - I don't mind playing around with wiring or stripping engines down - if I DO go ahead and buy a bike, when I'm finished doing my initial service / inspection,...

You should add muffler bearings and a new thermo-phramasamik valve to your list.

Seriously though, if it isn't broke, i.e. the starter, the suspension linkage, the swing arm and wheel bearings, calipers, ...leave it alone. You are asking for trouble, headaches, and serous loss of $$$.

Realistically it could require having the final drive pivot bearings replaced. Those could need attention after 30K to 40K miles.

Originally Posted by Chazza

I want it to be more reliable than a new bike!

I'm not sure that will be the case if you do indeed tear into it as you mentioned above. Heed the words of the others before me, change the fluids and ride it. Or buy a new one.

Originally Posted by Chazza

...I have a fully equipped workshop with all the tools you could ever wish for

There are a fair amount of special tools required for most of what you mentioned above.

[Jim Moore]

There are two big things you need to worry about. One is if your transmission and engine are misaligned, you will eat your clutch splines every 30K miles, no matter what you do to it. It's easy to check by looking in the starter hole, so it shouldn't be a surprise. The other is if the big bearing in your final drive is mis-shimmed, you will eat the bearing at about 50K miles, and every 50K miles after that until you get it shimmed correctly.

You may lose a slave cylinder, but it's easy to carry and easy to replace. Besides that, not much can go wrong with these bikes. Change the fluids and ride the bike. Your list is bordering on crackpotism.

That being said, I'd probably change the brake lines at 10 years, and the driveshaft and pivot bearings at 100K miles.

[Spyker]

Originally Posted by Jim Moore

There are two big things you need to worry about. One is if your transmission and engine are misaligned, you will eat your clutch splines every 30K miles, no matter what you do to it. It's easy to check by looking in the starter hole, so it shouldn't be a surprise.

What would you look for in the starter hole?

[Jim Moore]

Originally Posted by Spyker

What would you look for in the starter hole?

Pull the starter. Hold the clutch lever in (tie it off if you're by yourself) and use a thin screwdriver at the edge of the clutch disc to rotate the clutch disc back and forth. You can see the input splines if you look in the hole at the correct angle. The splines and disc should rotate together. If the disc will move on the splines you have a problem. It's an easy test once you play with it a little bit. Good luck.

[jsb223]

Originally Posted by Chazza

I want it to be more reliable than a new bike!

You forgot the ABS, the HES, the Alternator, the starter and always carry a spare motronic.

It's easy to go overboard.

It's a mechanical device that can break down at any time.

Even the new ones. No guarantees.

[def]

If you buy a GS with less than 40,000 miles, the stuff you propose to replace is mostly unnecessary.

Get familiar with the bike, do some routine maintenance, get the BMW factory repair manual, study it, keep watching this forum then tackle some of your listed items.