Which budget DS Bike?

[robert110411]

My garage already has a KX 125, V-Strom 1000, Electra-Glide and my kid's CR 125 and V-Star Custom.

What I'm looking for is to get rid if the pure dirt bikes and replace them with something that can be used for Trail Rides, D/s Rides and a few of the easier enduros.

I'm in Pennsylvania and would be riding in PA, NJ, NY and maybe north.

Of these, which would you choose and why:

CRF250L
KLX250S
WR250R
DR650
XR650L
DRZ400

5' 10" 200 pounds and a C rider. Not opposed to making modifications (bars, skid plate, pipe, FI Re-map ect.ect) but I'd really rather not spend thousands on suspension and engine upgrades. Once it get's into KTM or Husky territory I may as well just completely empty the college funds and corvette fund and go all the way.

[cjbiker]

KLX250S or WR250R. Both are cheap, reliable and low maintenance. The WR is a little more expensive, but is allegedly higher performance. Both need suspension work, but not thousands of dollars worth. The KLX needs stiffer fork springs and RaceTech gold valves don't hurt. Go-Race suspension can re spring and valve the WR fork and shock for $800 (maybe more for the springs). The KLX needs some uncorking (airbox, jetting, exhaust) and the WR may need some fiddling with the fuel injection.

Just my $0.02. I don't have personal experience with any of the other bikes. Of course, if I had a Corvette fund, I'd spend it on a KTM instead

[Bultaco206]

The DR-Z will give you the most bang for the buck of those bikes listed in stock form. Aftermarket support is huge. And while it's far from a racebike, you stand the best chance of compromising with it, versus the others on your list, should you choose to compete on it.

And no, I don't own one.

[Kommando]

Originally Posted by robert110411

My garage already has a KX 125, V-Strom 1000, Electra-Glide and my kid's CR 125 and V-Star Custom.

What I'm looking for is to get rid if the pure dirt bikes and replace them with something that can be used for Trail Rides, D/s Rides and a few of the easier enduros.

I'm in Pennsylvania and would be riding in PA, NJ, NY and maybe north.

Of these, which would you choose and why:

CRF250L
KLX250S
WR250R
DR650
XR650L
DRZ400

5' 10" 200 pounds and a C rider. Not opposed to making modifications (bars, skid plate, pipe, FI Re-map ect.ect) but I'd really rather not spend thousands on suspension and engine upgrades. Once it get's into KTM or Husky territory I may as well just completely empty the college funds and corvette fund and go all the way.

If you're not hauling big luggage ever, KLX250S. It's a bit lighter than the WRR. Power can be easily upgraded with an uncorking and a flat-slide pumper carb, or go all-out with a big-bore. Torquier down low. No fuelpump to sweat. Easy swap of tanks. Available pretty cheap.

If you want a sturdier subframe for luggage, WRR...or bend/weld a beefier one for the KLX.

[Off the grid]

You don't need a corvette fund to get into Euro/KTM territory. 3-4k can get you a well-sorted 03-07 KTM RFS bike, which is perfect for the snotty NorthEast trails.

Any of those other bikes you listed are going to be too heavy or require too much work to be practical. Spend 800 dollars on suspension?

[jon_l]

Originally Posted by Kommando

If you're not hauling big luggage ever, KLX250S. It's a bit lighter than the WRR.

Technically this is true, but .3 lbs isn't noticeable nor statistically significant.

WRR = 298 http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/pr...5/1/specs.aspx

KLX250S - 297.7 lbs http://www.kawasaki.com/Products/pro...id=698&scid=14

I have ridden both, and both are good bikes, but I chose the blue one.

[cjbiker]

Originally Posted by Off the grid

You don't need a corvette fund to get into Euro/KTM territory. 3-4k can get you a well-sorted 03-07 KTM RFS bike, which is perfect for the snotty NorthEast trails.

Any of those other bikes you listed are going to be too heavy or require too much work to be practical. Spend 800 dollars on suspension?

What does it cost to get a KTM or Husky suspension set up for your weight and riding style? At 200lbs, the OP would benefit from that on whatever bike he chooses.

[Off the grid]

Originally Posted by cjbiker

What does it cost to get a KTM or Husky suspension set up for your weight and riding style? At 200lbs, the OP would benefit from that on whatever bike he chooses.

On a KTM, Husky or Euro bike? 200 bucks for springs.

On a Japanese bike? 1k for re-valve, Race Tech Gold service, Ohlins or similar.

Suspension that comes stock on Japanese bikes are a disposable item.

Have any of you guys ridden Enduros in the snotty, tight, sugar-sand and wet NorthEast? No?

I have.

An XRL and DR650 is WAY too heavy for that terrain, no matter what mods you do.

A DRZ is passable with a lot of mods, but still suffers from being top-heavy and having shitty suspension like all other Japanese Bikes.

Regarding the 250s.....a 300lb, 250 4-stroke is not going to have the balls to blow through a foot of Jersey Sugar sand or climb the rocky, rooty off-camber climbs of PA.

There is a reason why so many guys in the NorthEast ride KTMs.

OP, attend an enduro or DS ride BEFORE buying and ask around THERE. DONT ask here, on ADV. Ask people who RIDE THE TERRAIN.

[robert110411]

Originally Posted by Off the grid

On a KTM, Husky or Euro bike? 200 bucks for springs.

On a Japanese bike? 1k for re-valve, Race Tech Gold service, Ohlins or similar.

Suspension that comes stock on Japanese bikes are a disposable item.

Have any of you guys ridden Enduros in the snotty, tight, sugar-sand and wet NorthEast? No?

I have.

An XRL and DR650 is WAY too heavy for that terrain, no matter what mods you do.

A DRZ is passable with a lot of mods, but still suffers from being top-heavy and having shitty suspension like all other Japanese Bikes.

Regarding the 250s.....a 300lb, 250 4-stroke is not going to have the balls to blow through a foot of Jersey Sugar sand or climb the rocky, rooty off-camber climbs of PA.

There is a reason why so many guys in the NorthEast ride KTMs.

OP, attend an enduro or DS ride BEFORE buying and ask around THERE. DONT ask here, on ADV. Ask people who RIDE THE TERRAIN.

I've already ridden those areas on various different bikes, including the KX. In fact I had already considered ridding some of the closed course, start-control formats on the KX as well.

I would go for the smaller Husky or KTM two strokes but I'm also looking for something that requires little care and can be ridden on the street.

I'm looking hard at dumping both dirt bikes and getting TWO new D/S. That's why the price point is kind of an issue. If it was just one I'd go Husky.

Most of my ridding is about spending time with my kid to make up for all the time I missed because of this shitty job. Not so much about being fast. I was fast 25 years ago.

[Off the grid]

Originally Posted by robert110411

I've already ridden those areas on various different bikes, including the KX. In fact I had already considered ridding some of the closed course, start-control formats on the KX as well.

I would go for the smaller Husky or KTM two strokes but I'm also looking for something that requires little care and can be ridden on the street.

I'm looking hard at dumping both dirt bikes and getting TWO new D/S. That's why the price point is kind of an issue. If it was just one I'd go Husky.

Most of my ridding is about spending time with my kid to make up for all the time I missed because of this shitty job. Not so much about being fast. I was fast 25 years ago.

I hear ya about going fast. I ride a hair above granny speed. But I'd rather spend 1k more up front and get a KTM that needs the exact same maintenance as a Japanese bike but is 100x the bike, much lighter, more power on demand, 100x the suspension, etc etc.

Again, don't take my word for it. You ride the NorthEast. What do you see people riding? Because every ride I went on when I lived in the Northeast was 50-70% KTM.....for a reason.

Japanese bikes are good, but they need to be built to a price point, and the the things they skimp on are critical parts like brakes, suspension, wheels, components like bars/pegs, etc. Most people dump thousands into their Japanese bikes to upgrade performance.

Additionally, there isn't a bike made that you can just ride and put away. Any bike will need attention....air filter change, chain lube, basic checks, etc. A KTM or Husky will need more valve checks, yes, but the same amt of oil changes if ridden in the same terrain. I don't believe for a second that Japanese bikes are built better or more reliable than Euro bikes. In fact, my direct experience is the exact opposite. Your mileage may vary.

Pretty small price to pay.

[Jake Mountain]

The DRZ-400 weighs the same as the 250's and is a 400 with a lot of stuff in the aftermarket. That's my pick of the bikes listed. It is small and nimble compared to a DR 650 or KLR 650 for more technical off road use and good used ones are everywhere

[samthg]

My KLX did everything it needed to do this past summer in UT. I wanted light weight, but didn't want to spend too much. KTM and WRR were my first thoughts. I do need more fuel though! I just ordered a Koplin 1.5 gal. In the city, i'm really loving the light weight and nimbleness.

[Bronco638]

You could add a late model DR350SE (1998-99) to that list and that would be my choice. I have previously owned two DR350SEs ('97 & '99) and currently own a DR650SE.

[nigelcorn]

I've owned a well set up DRZ and currently own a very well set up KLX 331. Of those two I would go with the KLX. They both felt about the same to me on the highway, but the KLX feels much better offroad. With the 331 kit the power feels the same to me as the DRZ, but (subjectively) the KLX feels lighter than the DRZ did.

In your place, I'd go with the KLX.

[byron555]

The new CRF250l is looking very promising... The aftermarket is adding new stuff almost everyday. Some people are decrying the weight and power, however the owners are VERY happy with the bike so far according to this site and others. $4500 price is excellent and so is the Fuel Injection. Some may prefer a carb, but after switching to FI when I bought my WRr I would have a hard time going back to a carb.

WRr's are fantastic, and I love mine, best out of the bunch stock in my opinion, but they are much more expensive new (I bought mine used for a great price). Realistically the only thing that needs to be changed is the stock gearing, but isn't that true of nearly every Dual Sport? I run 14/49 now, works on single track and can cruise 70mph on the highway all day long.

The other bikes listed are great too, but in my opinion the new FI 6spd bikes are the smoothest and the most flexible for daily use. I put 7000+ miles on mine in the first season of ownership. Mostly commuting 80 miles round trip, but also rode atv trails, a supercross track, and of course single track. The bike did it all, and did it pretty damn good! (especially after the re-gearing)