valve cover leaking after valve check

[mtrdrms]

So I pulled the valve cover to check the valves on my 07 and once I put it all back together the covers are seeping just a bit. I cleaned them and the mating surfaces well enough. My question is, should I have to replace the gaskets after pulling the covers? Never had this prob before but. I haven't done a valve check when it was 20 degrees outside either. Thanks.

[eric2]

The gaskets generally survive valve checks, but its possible you may have torn one. I've had some seepage from the spark plug gasket so I make it a point to rotate them and make sure their reseated properly.

[def]

The OHV cover gaskets on my 2001 GS are OE and have never leaked....never will.

Handled properly and wiped dry of oil prior to re-installing them is the secret. Make sure you wipe dry the surfaces on the cylinder head and OHV cover as well. Insure that the spark plug donuts are aligned correctly.

[Mr Head]

Check the spark plug gasket is rotated so it seals. That is the usual, first place if all were cleaned prior to re-assembly.
Noting should be broken or torn it is only the really extra-credit types who are able to tear these up.

[mtrdrms]

Got it. Operator error.

[Mr Head]

I did this on my 1150 after decades of working and riding bikes. oiled a gortex boot really well.

Originally Posted by mtrdrms

Got it. Operator error.

[Dan Alexander]

I thought you were supposed to lightly oil the gasket before reassembly .... don't have a manual around to check.

[def]

Originally Posted by Dan Alexander

I thought you were supposed to lightly oil the gasket before reassembly .... don't have a manual around to check.

Just the opposite. Dry the gaskets and mating surfaces so there is no oil path from inside the OHV cover to the outside. Use caution when handling the gaskets so as not to bend or crimp them.

And no hogging down on the OHV cover fasteners otherwise, you'll be whining about the stripped threads in your cylinder head.

Just a small excerpt from my 2001 BMW REPROM;

• Install cylinder head cover.
e Caution:
Make sure that gaskets are correctly seated. Gaskets
and sealing faces must be free from oil and
grease.
X Tightening torque:
Cover screw............................................. ...... 9 Nm

[pcwirepro]

And dry some more

[roadtrip22]

Originally Posted by pcwirepro

And dry some more

Always dry and make sure everything is clean the kits you can usually get have a spark plug seal in there for a purpose. I recommend always replacing that seal BC it's a leak your never see till it fouls out your plug

[JimVonBaden]

Originally Posted by pcwirepro

And dry some more

Clean, dry is not necessary or preferred.

http://www.jimvonbaden.com/R1200_24K.html

Jim

[Dan Alexander]

Originally Posted by JimVonBaden

Clean, dry is not necessary or preferred. Jim

That's what I thought ... thanks

I recall from my K-bike days that valve cover gaskets worked much better at stopping leaks when they had a light coat of oil. Helps the seal to 'seal' it seems

[pcwirepro]

Originally Posted by JimVonBaden

Clean, dry is not necessary or preferred.

http://www.jimvonbaden.com/R1200_24K.html

Jim

My testimony of you just got shot to hell.

Just kidding.

[def]

Look, if JVB has success with his procedure, I wanna know about it.

Here's what I do when I remove my OHV gaskets. I use a paper towel to clean them and dry them of oil using care not to damage the mounting tabs . Then, I use another paper towel to wipe clean the mating surfaces on the OHV cover and cylinder head. I examine the donut for damage and re-seat it correctly on the OHV cover spark plug gallery.

Next, I check the valve mufflers to insure they are fixed correctly to their respective mountings. (How many of you even re-install these things under your OHV covers?)

Then, I hang the gasket carefully on the alignment stubs and fit the OHV cover straight onto the cylinder head. Don't cock the OHV cover. That's how the donut gets off center and eventually leaks.

I snug (careful here...snug only...no torque wrench needed...like you're bottoming a screw into soft wood) the 4 OHV cover bolts beginning at the bottom working up to the top.

No runs, no hits, no errors and no leaks. Oh, and by the way, I use synthetic engine oil which reputedly causes oil leaks.

[def]

A comment on the use of a torque wrench, I don't use one except on the rear wheel bolts.

Torque wrenches, especially the beam and pointer design are inaccurate and often make tightening a fastener clumsy and potentially inaccurate.

Develop a feel for the tightening of the various fasteners you routinely install. For example, the oilhead has 8 valve adjustor nuts that must be snugged each time valve lash is disturbed and reset. I never use a torque wrench for this. Develop a feel for the correct amount of torque to apply. Its common sense.

Think about securing a wood screw into soft wood...how much force do you apply to eliminate the chance of stripping out the wood threads? Use the same thought process when securing fasteners onto you bike or car. You are often better off with less torque rather than more. Also, are you threading into ferrour or non-ferrous parent material? It makes a difference. Alloy is buttery and thread damage is likely if you over tighten.

Yes, a torque wrench is needed if you are tightening engine, clutch and wheel fasteners. The rest? I use feel. I have yet to loose a screw or bolt on my 2001 GS and have not lost a thread.