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Old 01-25-2013, 11:33 AM   #1
DetourJournal OP
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How to Remove Heat Stains on Engine?

I did a very bad thing. I started my 1150 GS, quickly ran inside to grab something, got distracted, and 30 minutes later, I found my bike in a thick cloud of smoke. I melted the Oil-view window and a couple of very minor plastic mounts, but from what I can tell, I got Lucky. (the bike hadn't seized and plenty oil was still rushing out, Oil Pressure Sensor is still intact)

The one thing I don't know is how can I remove the heat stains on the Engine and magnesium cylinder heads?
I've heard Vinegar works for stainless Steel, does anyone have any other suggestions?

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Old 01-25-2013, 12:08 PM   #2
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Daaaaaaamn!
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:11 PM   #3
Twilight Error
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The discoloration you're seeing is the finish applied to the parts, not the metal itself. You're probably going to have to strip it all off and refinish them.
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:31 PM   #4
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Vinegar is a weak acid. It won't touch your stains but will leave an unpleasant odor everywhere.

Try Super Clean, a strong, water soluble cleaner. It is available at Wal-Mart.

Careful, wear gloves if you're going to handle the wet parts...undiluted, the stuff will remove skin. Also, keep it away from glass...it can etch glass if not removed promptly.

It contains NaOH (sodium hydroxide) and silicates (strong alkalies). The pH is about 13.

I use it for grease removal on metal parts, carburetors, cleaning plastic furniture, as a deck cleaner with the pressure washer (diluted), carpet stain remover, laundry pre-spotter, cleaning the bar-b-q smoker, cleaning concrete, cleaning the wife's gold and platinum diamond rings, etc.

Diluted, it is excellent at cleaning auto wheels, tires or white walls (remember those?).

If the stains you have are cooked on oil, this stuff will take it off.

Oh, and its cheap....~$10.00/gallon. I purchased my last gallon about two years ago and still have plenty left.

Super Clean is my regular go-to all-purpose cleaner. I have it around in spray bottles at various strengths.

Rinse thoroughly.
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:42 PM   #5
def
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The boxer engine should never be warmed up before riding. It is best to get your gear on, mount up and start the engine. Move the bike off the center stand, engage 1st gear and ride off...no warm up.

There have been instances of boxers catching fire by owners who made the same mistake...starting the engine, leaving it running and getting distracted.

You were fortunate however, you may experience some heat related problems in the future (seals, oil leaks, wiring damaged, etc.).

I would inspect the engine oil for signs of overheating and change it if found to be suspect.
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:51 PM   #6
Twilight Error
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Originally Posted by def View Post
The boxer engine should never be warmed up before riding. It is best to get your gear on, mount up and start the engine. Move the bike off the center stand, engage 1st gear and ride off...no warm up.

There have been instances of boxers catching fire by owners who made the same mistake...starting the engine, leaving it running and getting distracted.

You were fortunate however, you may experience some heat related problems in the future (seals, oil leaks, wiring damaged, etc.).

I would inspect the engine oil for signs of overheating and change it if found to be suspect.
When the temperature dips below 10, I'll get partially geared, start the bike on the centerstand, go back inside to put on my 'stitch and helmet, then leave. This typically is during the morning when I'm on my way to work, so the chances I'll get distracted and not leave are quite slim.
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:51 PM   #7
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That's burned paint, not stained metal. I'd leave it alone. Consider it a badge of honor, a warning to others, ... whatever.
Replace the oil window, oil and filter, keep your eye out for leaks from any cooked seals and if nothing bad happens, consider yourself very lucky.
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by def View Post
The boxer engine should never be warmed up before riding. It is best to get your gear on, mount up and start the engine. Move the bike off the center stand, engage 1st gear and ride off...no warm up.

There have been instances of boxers catching fire by owners who made the same mistake...starting the engine, leaving it running and getting distracted.

.
This is an old chestnut i will argue against till the kangaroos come home. Cold oil / cold metal must be warmed to a sensible temp before loaded or you are courting increased wear, the modern boxer engine is not magically exempt from this. Seriously all that is required is simple plain common sense, if a rider is going to abandon a running motor without thinking to switch it off is said rider really in the right frame of mind to be operating said machinery in the first place ? (not being disrespectful , a genuine rhetorical question).
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:58 PM   #9
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Wow, sounds like you caught it just in time!
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:01 PM   #10
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Tell others that you got the "gold package" option.
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Old 01-25-2013, 02:21 PM   #11
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Tell others that you got the "gold package" option.
Oh I Like that! Although, while I like the badge of honor, I prefer the badges that don't scream "Hey everyone! I'm a moron."

Trust Me. I Cried. The worst part is I totally know better (In fact I just cautioned others against the EXACT SAME thing in a How to Change your Oil Video). It was pure stupidity. These bikes don't need to warm up and I only intended to run into the house and right back out.

It's good to hear that it's just the finish on the metal that's stained. I'll definitely try Super Clean. Is it similar to just using carb cleaner?
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:17 PM   #12
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I'll definitely try Super Clean. Is it similar to just using carb cleaner?
No. It is not a solvent. It does not contain MEK, Xylene, Methyl Chloride, Methylene Chloride or any similar volatile organic compound and therefore is not an inhalant concern.

It is considered a Hazardous Chemical due to the strength of the sodium hydroxide and is labelled as such so, don't get it on skin or clothing that contacts skin. Don't get it in your eyes. Handle it like you would caustic oven cleaner or drain opener; gloves and eye protection.
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:29 PM   #13
Ayrshire Bull
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so are you saying Ms Super Clean, is - 'cheap'? I wouldn't tell her to her face.
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:14 PM   #14
slartidbartfast
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Fixed...
Quote:
Originally Posted by def View Post
...
It is considered a Hazardous Chemical due to the strength of the sodium hydroxide and is labelled as such so, don't get it on skin or clothing that contacts skin. Don't get it in your eyes. Handle it like you should caustic oven cleaner or drain opener; gloves and eye protection.
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Old 01-26-2013, 02:26 AM   #15
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I don't think any detergent is going to work. Aircraft stripper may work (this is to repaint/refinish cylinder head covers). A wire brush may pit magnesium/magnesium alloy. I''m not too experienced working with magnesium, so I don't know how soft it is and what you can get away with.

Paint with high-temp primer and paint.
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