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Old 04-27-2013, 05:39 PM   #1
YetiGS OP
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HELP: Shock Bolt Sheared Off

I was trying to remove the rear shock on my 2004 R1150GS Adventure. The bolt just kept spinning but wouldn't come out. I put a little sideways English on it and the bolt came out. Minus the threads.


Not sure if the PO put too much torque on the bolt installing it or if it sheared while riding, no idea. Either way, there is too much of the bolt left in the swingarm to remove the rear shock.


I've tried an easy out, but (I suspect) because the bolt was Locktite'd in there, it won't come out.


Does anyone have any ideas how I can get the bolt threads out of there?


Thanks in advance!!
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:26 PM   #2
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That's a bummer! You might be able to use the fluted style of extractors that use drill guides. If you're lucky you will find a drill guide that will fit in the screw bore enough to help guide a drill on-center. If the guides are in between sizes then use the largest guide that will fit and wrap electrical tape or some metal shim material (a beer can come to mind) to increase the diameter of the guide until it fits snugly and centered in the bolt hole bore.

After drilling a straight hole then redrill the hole to the size of the largest flute extractor that will fit that leaves some meat. I'd probably use a flute bore of about 80% or 90% of the sheared bolt's outer diameter.

Before trying to remove the sheared bolt, do apply heat to the remainder of the bolt to release the Locktite. You may also pre-spray the remaining bolt with WD40 or some other solution to help break any corrosion that may exist. Pre-spraying with WD (or whatever you choose) does not hurt your chances of releasing the Locktite.

This kit might be useful,

http://www.amazon.com/Screw-Extracto.../dp/B006YDQ812

I hope this offers some help. Proceed methodically. You really only get one good shot at repairing this w/o removing the swingarm for some laser work.

I have faith in this technique, so good luck.
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:11 AM   #3
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I'm thinking abuot using a dremel to cut through one of the aluminum(?) spacers which holds the shock in place. That way I can get teh shock out and get better access to the broken off threads. Thoughts?
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:23 AM   #4
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Looks like this:



I believe the threads come out about as far into the spacer as the blue line. I'm thinking of cutting the spacers where the red line is.

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Old 04-28-2013, 08:36 AM   #5
larryboy
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I'd cut the spacer on the left side to make sure you leave as much bolt/thread whatever as possible.
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:48 AM   #6
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If you're going to try the drill and EZout route, use a transfer punch to mark the center of the bolt for drilling. McMaster has metric transfer punches - measure the head of the broken bolt and buy that size. When you do get in there with the ezout, heat the swingarm to help soften the loctite and expand the aluminum around the bolt. I'd use a heat gun instead of a torch, the temperature can be set lower and less likely to disturb the temper of the Aluminum than a flame.
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:33 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I'd cut the spacer on the left side to make sure you leave as much bolt/thread whatever as possible.
I did consider that. The problem I had with the idea was that I'm not sure that'll give me enough slack to get the right side spacer to move off the threads. If I cut on the right side, it will be able to come out. Based on the length of bolt left, I'm pretty sure that cutting where I indicated won't cut any of the thread off. We'll see.


TE, thanks for the tip. I'll look into that when it comes time to remove the broken off threads. I may have a pro do that.
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:12 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I'd cut the spacer on the left side to make sure you leave as much bolt/thread whatever as possible.
+1

Cut in the same area on the left as the red line is on the right.
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:47 AM   #9
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Doh! I don't have anything useful to add, but I'm sending you good juju.

Rock on with your socks on!

-B

P.S. I second the need for heat. That loctite can be pretty damn strong.
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:30 PM   #10
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Good job fixing the bolt! I had the same issue a couple years ago on my R1200GS and it was a mess.

To stop the problem from happening again, give special attention to steps 8 and 9 in this blog post. There is a floating spacer in the GS swing-arm that becomes seized in place. When the spacer doesn't tighten properly against the shock bushings, the bolt bends or breaks.

http://www.touratech-usa.com/Adventu...k-Installation

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Old 04-30-2013, 02:19 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88NX250 View Post
Good job fixing the bolt! I had the same issue a couple years ago on my R1200GS and it was a mess.

To stop the problem from happening again, give special attention to steps 8 and 9 in this blog post. There is a floating spacer in the GS swing-arm that becomes seized in place. When the spacer doesn't tighten properly against the shock bushings, the bolt bends or breaks.

http://www.touratech-usa.com/Adventu...k-Installation

Interesting. Although the blog post you've linked referes to the 1200GS, it does look like my 1150GSA also has a bushing there. I looked to see if it could be removed easily and it didn't seem to want to come out.


Anyone know if that is a removable (and greasable) bushing on the 1150 like it is on the 1200??
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Old 04-30-2013, 02:25 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YetiGS View Post
Interesting. Although the blog post you've linked referes to the 1200GS, it does look like my 1150GSA also has a bushing there. I looked to see if it could be removed easily and it didn't seem to want to come out.


Anyone know if that is a removable (and greasable) bushing on the 1150 like it is on the 1200??
I've got to wait 'til I get home to check but I've had that bolt in and out many times and don't remember the bushing being removable.

However a quick look at max's parts fische shows the bushing as a separate part on the 1150.
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Old 04-30-2013, 02:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike54 View Post
I've got to wait 'til I get home to check but I've had that bolt in and out many times and don't remember the bushing being removable.

However a quick look at max's parts fische shows the bushing as a separate part on the 1150.
So it does. Who knew? Anyone know how to remove it? Should it come out easily?

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Old 04-30-2013, 04:57 PM   #14
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On my bike it was seized petty hard. I had to use a socket that fit in there nicely and a hammer to pound it through. With the shock out, the spacer is short enough to come out of the swing-arm in the space where the shock absorber sits.

Mine took a good bit of sand paper on the spacer itself and the bore it sits in to get it moving smoothly. My friend's 1200 spacer slid in and out smoothly.
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