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Old 05-21-2013, 08:36 PM   #1
elmontanero OP
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R80g/s Cylinder stud striptease... Well... here we go.

STATUS:Finished up assembly, Started and ridden round. Second Valve adjustment done, carbs tuned and 20 miles ridden since rebuild. Happy so far. I think I finally made sense of the Harmonizer for an Airhead. Rode sweet!

Skip to post two for Striptease explanation... here's the wind up:
I've been pretty quiet on here for a while and while some folks would reckon that all was well in g/s land you'd be dead wrong. Had a little trouble here, little mess there with the bike back in September/October. Tuning and such - all squared away. Then, as indicated on the title - doing a valve adjustment and re-torque time for the head. Left cylinder top exhaust just wasn't having it. Kept spinning - no tightening - just turning.

History: heads have been off the bike previously for Pushrod seals, bike has in the neighborhood of 60k miles. De carboned the heads the last time till they looked like such:

After that all went together - ran like a Swiss Watch and even sounded like one too. Quiet and smooth. Ah Airhead nirvana....
Slight discoloration near the cylinder base, prehaps blow by from the joint... well that's odd. Forget it and move on, bike runs fine. Then the niggly things like pawl spring, carbs, coil, all that crap eventually needs love- back to well enough. Now this...
So I will admit that I put it aside and rode the Oilheads (gasp) but won't admit how long I didn't work on it. Went down tonight to finally deal with it... all the crap that has to be disconnected or removed done. Valve cover off, take off all the nuts and remove rockers.. yep, threads and then some of the stud showing only on that one ... "so off with the head", and cylinder comes off too. Looking like this now: Left side:
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elmontanero screwed with this post 07-16-2013 at 08:41 PM Reason: status update added at top of post....
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:41 PM   #2
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And here's the STRIPtease part: that stud looks like such:
Not wiggly, not threading out nor taking the torque.

So I've read all the threads on Helicoil and timesert and utI'm gonna pass on getting into that argument. I will be going with a jig because I'm scared and sad....

What's the best way to get the stud out.. put back the parts and just keep turning till all comes free?

Lock two nuts together andspin it out?

Take the bike to the nearest qualified mechanic since I probably ham fisted it with a cheap torque wrench?

And to you folks who are holding your heads in shame.. this is my garage now..
Not the easiest location about a 40 yard walk to it.
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:43 PM   #3
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Some panic as to having heads rebuilt, new rings.. all the usual worry beads stuff. Should the cylinder bases and heads be machined flat?
Right side looks like this showing similar blowby do you think I gotta get in to that one too?

Summers here in a month and I'd rather not spend a bundle on bike unless needed... vacation is sacred to a teacher.
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elmontanero screwed with this post 05-21-2013 at 09:00 PM
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:05 PM   #4
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Rent the jig.....

....from Jeff here. Used a similar one recently and it was a breeze. Remove the stud by locking 2 nuts together.

Here is my account
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:20 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post
....from Jeff here. Used a similar one recently and it was a breeze. Remove the stud by locking 2 nuts together.

Here is my account
Thanks, off to some reading.

Edit.. do you recommend the HPD or the Northwoods then? seem like quite different inserts.. ut oh.. might be falling into that trap...
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elmontanero screwed with this post 05-21-2013 at 09:46 PM
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Old 05-22-2013, 05:50 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmontanero View Post
Thanks, off to some reading.

Edit.. do you recommend the HPD or the Northwoods then? seem like quite different inserts.. ut oh.. might be falling into that trap...
I like the HPD inserts much better.
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:59 AM   #7
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Jig is a good idea... Easily made with some decent ply wood. Remember if its an upper stud there is an oil galley that supplies the rocker with oil. You must not plug it. I just finished the same repair on my gs, used a keen sert. I removed one of the pins, enlarged the grove on the outside of the sert, and lined that up with the oil galley. Only locktite behond the oil galley to ensure no plugging.

Other things that worked for me, grease in drill bit grooves to trap shavings. Only drill a wee bit, clean bit, re grease, drill again. Same with tap. Clean everything with brake cleaner, let dry, check oil galley is not plugged. check the inside of you newly tapped case for filinga with your fonger, there will be some bits there. I used high heat locktite, again, behind oil hole in crank case. I let mine cure for a coulple of days before assembly. Use a decent torque wrench, 25 lb max, etc.

I started bike up and ran it with rocker cover off it for a spell... Just to make sure oil galley not plugged. This also ensures any aluminum bits get flushed out of your engine...change oil and filter after a short idle.

With any luck you are away, good luck!
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:46 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post
I like the HPD inserts much better.
So... does anyone out there rent out their HPD jig?
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:09 PM   #9
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That exhaust valve appears to be pretty seriously recessed. Have you considered having the heads done?
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:46 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post
....from Jeff here. Used a similar one recently and it was a breeze. Remove the stud by locking 2 nuts together.

Here is my account
How did you test for oil flow without the heads on it??
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Old 06-24-2013, 03:46 PM   #11
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Quote:
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How did you test for oil flow without the heads on it??
Oil runs down the studs to feed the rockers. you can watch it come out where the stud enters the block by just spinning the motor by hand.
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:52 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Oil runs down the studs to feed the rockers. you can watch it come out where the stud enters the block by just spinning the motor by hand.
I knew the oil flow, but I'd never done it with the engine not being assembled and just the covers off. So just a hand spin ... good to know, thanks!
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:57 AM   #13
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I knew the oil flow, but I'd never done it with the engine not being assembled and just the covers off. So just a hand spin ... good to know, thanks!
I was just covering my ass and making sure I didn't leave any burrs in the feed hole.

Eureka!

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Old 06-01-2013, 07:52 PM   #14
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intervalves...unless you have money to burn....I've got about 24K on mine and valves are staying adjusted just fine. Bought all my stuff as a kit from Motobins, but also did the rod bearings since I was in there. Check your rings too. Buy the complete kit from them it will be cheaper.,
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:24 AM   #15
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ball hone, OEM rings and intervalves, with uprated guides....eventhough the BMW valves aren't that much higher at Motobins...so I guess that's your call.
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