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Old 07-10-2013, 10:19 AM   #1
brocktoon OP
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Engine Jacks

Probably a pretty simple question: what are you guys using as engine lifts for our airheads? I need to pull the engine up and forward to get enough room to get the gearbox out. Gotta figure out why it's leaking *again*. Last time I lifted the engine to get the gearbox out I used a car jack with some wood for support. It ended up slipping and the engine landed on the pushrod tubes. Nearly gave me a heart attack.

Anyone know of an engine jack that fits "just right"?
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:26 AM   #2
chasbmw
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for a twin shock or monoshock, leave the engine where it is and loosen off the swinging arm, pull the swinging arm back and chock it in place, this should give you more than enough working space.

when im removing an engine, I use an ordinary trolley jack, with a piece of wood between the jack and the engine. i put the engine in place and then carefully lower it into position.
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:34 AM   #3
AirbusScott
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I'm just a FNG (%#+% new guy) here but...

IDK, which airhead your working on but on my '78 R100S pulling the trans was easy and no jack is required. The driveshaft bolts are the hardest part and as long as you have the "new" style bolts no parts needed.

As far as a jack I would guess a transmission jack would work well.


Quote:
Originally Posted by brocktoon View Post
Probably a pretty simple question: what are you guys using as engine lifts for our airheads? I need to pull the engine up and forward to get enough room to get the gearbox out. Gotta figure out why it's leaking *again*. Last time I lifted the engine to get the gearbox out I used a car jack with some wood for support. It ended up slipping and the engine landed on the pushrod tubes. Nearly gave me a heart attack.

Anyone know of an engine jack that fits "just right"?
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:40 AM   #4
brocktoon OP
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Ok, makes sense. The Clymer manual says to lift the engine up and forward to get enough room to pull the transmission up and out. Maybe pulling the swing arm back is easier and safer.

I'm working on a LWB '73 R75/5
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:48 AM   #5
Airhead Wrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brocktoon View Post
Maybe pulling the swing arm back is easier and safer.
That's how I've always done it. I've never tried lifting the engine to remove the trans, but it sounds a lot tougher.
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Airhead Wrangler screwed with this post 07-10-2013 at 02:33 PM
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:46 AM   #6
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brocktoon View Post
Probably a pretty simple question: what are you guys using as engine lifts for our airheads? I need to pull the engine up and forward to get enough room to get the gearbox out. Gotta figure out why it's leaking *again*. Last time I lifted the engine to get the gearbox out I used a car jack with some wood for support. It ended up slipping and the engine landed on the pushrod tubes. Nearly gave me a heart attack.

Anyone know of an engine jack that fits "just right"?
Remove the bolts that connect the driveshaft to the transmission. leave the boot clamps slack, inspect the boot and know the deal with replacing the bolts and the bolt lengths. I index the mating flanges so they go back the way they were. Optional.

Remove the seat.

Compress the clutch lever on rear of tranny and pop the cable off.

Remove 4 bolts that connect the rear subframe to the main frame.

Unplug the rear harness, under the upper left subframe rail back of the grab handle or thereabouts.

Remove the swingarm pivot pin locknuts and pins.

Move the swingarm/subframe/driveshaft and all rearward a couple inches. Rear wheel remains in and supports things.

Remove air cleaner.

Unbolt and remove tranny. It moves 1" to the rear to disengage the clutch splines and lifts out.

You may or may not have to fool with the battery box. It's a good time to take it out, de-rust and paint.

When the tranny is out, do not bang the eye that holds the clutch cable sleeve. It is fragile and the transmission heavy. Tricky to repair.


Depending on where the oil is dripping out of the tranny, the repair may not require removal. The thing has 6 holes in it that seal oil. (if I counted right). Only the front seal requires removal unless you have stripped threads somewhere that require machine work.
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:18 PM   #7
ME 109
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brocktoon, your post suggests that the tranny is leaking. Is it the tranny, or the engine that is leaking?
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Old 07-10-2013, 03:13 PM   #8
darklight79
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Theres a guy in uk claims 15 mins to pull trans requires pulling a trans stud remove swing bolts push swing back leave wheel on trans back a lil then sideways dont move the engine
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Old 07-10-2013, 04:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Theres a guy in uk claims 15 mins to pull trans requires pulling a trans stud remove swing bolts push swing back leave wheel on trans back a lil then sideways dont move the engine
had a guy at a rally snap a shift spring, a buddy and I had his tranny out in about 20-25 minutes, including beer breaks, we simply picked a side and went to work. Guy at the rally had a workshop trailer set up, had a spring, replaced it while we had dinner, then it went back in the bike, that might of took an hour, many more beer breaks! next morning the guy rode the bike home with no troubles. heck, we even greased the splines!!
yep, we slid the swingarm back, I always carry the socket to fit the swingarm nuts.
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Old 07-10-2013, 05:53 PM   #10
Plaka
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had a guy at a rally snap a shift spring, a buddy and I had his tranny out in about 20-25 minutes, including beer breaks, we simply picked a side and went to work. Guy at the rally had a workshop trailer set up, had a spring, replaced it while we had dinner, then it went back in the bike, that might of took an hour, many more beer breaks! next morning the guy rode the bike home with no troubles. heck, we even greased the splines!!
yep, we slid the swingarm back, I always carry the socket to fit the swingarm nuts.
Make very, very sure your breather bolt is clear.

If the cover is so warped it won't seal, then what you think you are getting for your shimming might not be what you are actually getting. So evaluating cover flatness would be next. Ditto case rim flatness. One game is to remove the gasket, clean things up, then put a gasket thickness shim washer (mic. the outgoing gasket) at each of the bolts, put cover on and torque lightly, then go around and check the gap with feeler gauges.

When I had my 4 speed gone through by a pro, it came back with ample evidence of sealant at the rear cover. Something brown. So the guy wasn't the neatest with the sealant, his tranny work is unquestionable. If he's using a sealant, he knows something. For myself, when in doubt, I glue the crap out of everything. the Ultra- series silicones work very well and can be used a number of ways---on very clean metal for adhesion or on oiled/waxed/silicone greased metal for a non-adhering gasket. There are also games that involve assembling the parts on the wet silicone, barely tightening them. Allowing the silicone to set overnight and then torquing fully. This works very well on rocker covers. For your application you need to go super thin so I would use a sealant on a clean surface and plan on it adhering.
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Old 09-28-2013, 11:39 AM   #11
RayB
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Before you get too involved, make sure the shifter seal isn't leaking. Oil can migrate back to the spot you indicated. Simple checks first.
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:02 PM   #12
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Quote:
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a buddy and I had his tranny out in about 20-25 minutes, including beer breaks,
Oh, yeah, my 45 minutes included taking the tranny out of the wrong bike first.
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:08 PM   #13
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yes, the first question should have been is the vent bolt a vent bolt or a bolt..
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:23 PM   #14
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Permatex ultra grey is your friend on cases/cover sealing surfaces.

I've also had good luck with (all I'm allowed to use at work) permatex super 300 brush on. I like to cut it with a bit of thinner, and it goes on smooth, and thin. Use it on all paper gaskets at the shop (vintage mercedes)
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:13 AM   #15
disston
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Quote:
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Oh, yeah, my 45 minutes included taking the tranny out of the wrong bike first.
I did that once on an engine swap in an old beetle.
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