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Old 07-12-2009, 04:46 PM   #331
Eduardo
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Plugging Secondary (Pulse) Air System

Hola, After reading the post by Swegan about his experience with poor idle, and the tutorial by Snowbum, http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/pulseair.htm, I closed off my system today. I took the easiest solution of using steel ball bearings to close off the intake manifolds, left and right, coming out of the air cleaner housing bottom. I was hesitant of trying to remove the intake manifold from the cylinder heads, for fear of frozen threads on the stud nuts and possibly stripping them, and this method retained the stock look.

It was a 3 minute job and made an immediate difference in the way my R80RT idled, and may have given me a little extra power and zip, I'm still test riding to determine that.

Thanks again to those that posted in, and to Snowbum for his complete and accurate instructions. I did however think that the suggested 5/16" ball was a little small and looked through my salvaged ball bearings till I found two that worked well. Saludos, Eduardo
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Escape the Tundra: Tenth winter in Mexico and Guatemala 2009/2010
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=531184
Minnesota to Guatemala 2008/2009 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=423949
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Old 07-13-2009, 08:30 AM   #332
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Eduardo: thanks for your "tip".... made me realize that I 'need to get out of the house more' when I read the sig-link on your trip to Guate .... (I tend to hang in old sckool.....)

What a great thread, and good on ya for taking the time and actually real-izing your desire to spend time travelling, getting to know other people and cultures. My folks lived in Guate for many years and I visited many times, and remember Antigua as being a very special place. It has now gotten far more commercial in the language instructions, etc, but still, by US standards, quite a dream place.

Having never been to Mexico, your thread gives me lots of reasons to want to go....Sounds like there are some gem-towns.... gotta dream-and-do....

So......

Muchas Gracias, Eduardo. Vaya con Dios en todas tus aventuras!


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Old 07-13-2009, 11:45 AM   #333
CaribouCases
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Good match for R100GS Bumblebee Yellow Paint

Testors Yellow 1114 enamel, very close match....

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Old 07-22-2009, 09:04 AM   #334
Eduardo
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Exhaust Removal

Hola, I'm finding a need to remove the exhaust on my "86 R80RT to gain better access to the transmission area for a visual inspection of some oil and tranny leaks....but I don't want to disturb my probably frozen finned exhaust nuts. Is is possible to remove the exhaust by separating the pipes just in front of the collection/crossover box, and remove the exhaust from there aft?, and how hard is it to get those pipes apart, and back together again?

I've had nagging leaks of what I thought was engine oil and replaced a failed oil pressure switch, hoping that would dry it up, but alas, I finally got a good view of the neutral switch and that was leaking too, and I replaced it. Now, I would like to clear area of visual obstructions and inspect the whole area without tons of part removal. Any ideas? Saludos, Eduardo
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Escape the Tundra: Tenth winter in Mexico and Guatemala 2009/2010
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=531184
Minnesota to Guatemala 2008/2009 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=423949
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Old 07-25-2009, 05:16 PM   #335
bmwblake
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i think it's easier to deal with the exhaust as 1 big piece. go ahead and deal with your probably frozen exhaust nuts. why put off the inevitable?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Eduardo
Hola, I'm finding a need to remove the exhaust on my "86 R80RT to gain better access to the transmission area for a visual inspection of some oil and tranny leaks....but I don't want to disturb my probably frozen finned exhaust nuts. Is is possible to remove the exhaust by separating the pipes just in front of the collection/crossover box, and remove the exhaust from there aft?, and how hard is it to get those pipes apart, and back together again?

I've had nagging leaks of what I thought was engine oil and replaced a failed oil pressure switch, hoping that would dry it up, but alas, I finally got a good view of the neutral switch and that was leaking too, and I replaced it. Now, I would like to clear area of visual obstructions and inspect the whole area without tons of part removal. Any ideas? Saludos, Eduardo
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Old 07-25-2009, 06:53 PM   #336
Eduardo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwblake
i think it's easier to deal with the exhaust as 1 big piece. go ahead and deal with your probably frozen exhaust nuts. why put off the inevitable?
Hola bmwblake, You are probably right, however, it's an expensive deal with the wrench, and new exhaust nuts, and I was hoping avoid that for the time being. I may be able to anyway, as I think, pray, I've found my last leaker, it turned out to be the clutch pushrod rubber boot. I'll know soon as I get a new one in. Thanks!
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Escape the Tundra: Tenth winter in Mexico and Guatemala 2009/2010
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=531184
Minnesota to Guatemala 2008/2009 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=423949
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Old 08-23-2009, 10:03 PM   #337
Eduardo
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Tuning CV carbs by ear

Found this tutorial by Steve Doyle, on carb tuning, and today I tried it out. I was having idle/mixture problems and got it running smooth following his easy instructions. Mostly undoing previous mis-tuning. Thanks Steve. http://rossmz.blogspot.com/2008/12/t...s-for-bmw.html Saludos
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Four Wheels move the body, but two wheels move the soul

Escape the Tundra: Tenth winter in Mexico and Guatemala 2009/2010
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=531184
Minnesota to Guatemala 2008/2009 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=423949
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Old 08-25-2009, 11:26 AM   #338
kv
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Does anyone have some tips for buttoning the front cowling back up on a PD? I pulled mine off last night to get to the engine guards as I was thinking about having them powdercoated black instead of 'teal' and I was hoping to figure out why my headlight never seems very secure.

Just getting to the engine guards has been frustrating and I think I'm just going to try to button it all back up. At this point I wish I was brave enough to cut into the harness, mount up an HID-equiped TT shell and run a Trail Tech Vapor.

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Old 08-25-2009, 05:03 PM   #339
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I've got the vapor and I'm not too happy with it. The ODO is buried 3 menus down, the tach isn't very stable, the ambient temp guage doesn't work, etc. I'm sure it's fine on a dirtbike but it's not well suited for a road bike. Acewell has some nice stuff
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Old 08-25-2009, 05:35 PM   #340
kv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoodsoil
I've got the vapor and I'm not too happy with it. The ODO is buried 3 menus down, the tach isn't very stable, the ambient temp guage doesn't work, etc. I'm sure it's fine on a dirtbike but it's not well suited for a road bike. Acewell has some nice stuff
Thanks for the heads up.
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Old 08-25-2009, 10:32 PM   #341
opposedcyljunkie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kv
Does anyone have some tips for buttoning the front cowling back up on a PD? I pulled mine off last night to get to the engine guards as I was thinking about having them powdercoated black instead of 'teal' and I was hoping to figure out why my headlight never seems very secure.
The headlight is secured on top only by 2 allen bolts which go through rubber bushings, acting as dampers for the headlight roo bar. The bottom is secured by a single bolt which goes through the roo bar support. The latter supports the roo bar and rests on the steering stem.

Hope I made some sense
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Old 08-26-2009, 05:23 AM   #342
kv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opposedcyljunkie
The headlight is secured on top only by 2 allen bolts which go through rubber bushings, acting as dampers for the headlight roo bar. The bottom is secured by a single bolt which goes through the roo bar support. The latter supports the roo bar and rests on the steering stem.

Hope I made some sense
You did and I figured out why my headlight is moving around so much - I'm missing one of the white, plastic bushings that one of the adjusters rides on. This lets the headlight move up and down quite a bit. When I button it all back up I think I'm going to attempt to use a piece of fuel tubing to create my own bushing to help stabalize the headlight.
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Old 08-27-2009, 02:07 AM   #343
opposedcyljunkie
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Those bushings go for cheap from the dealership. Get the OE one to save you the trouble. The adjusters are also spring-loaded, but my experience is that the spring needs to be shorter (or not there at all) for you to fully-adjust the headlight more downwards. Maybe something's also wrong with my light mounts for that to be the case. YMMV.
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Old 09-01-2009, 09:51 AM   #344
ML WYDELL
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Gs Bars On R100

Does anyone have experience putting Gs bars on a R100? Will this work / need risers? Picking up an airhead and was looking at this option as I like that upright riding position. Thanks
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Old 09-03-2009, 12:32 AM   #345
FUTURE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ML WYDELL
Does anyone have experience putting Gs bars on a R100? Will this work / need risers? Picking up an airhead and was looking at this option as I like that upright riding position. Thanks
Why not just fit some RT bars? And the cables for them too. Would this not give you the upright position you are looking for?
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