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Old 08-17-2009, 10:09 PM   #26806
riderskate
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Location: Hatboro, PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackBeast
Nice bike. You should seriously consider adding a skid plate next!
Your Dr is sweet, where did you get the white seat cover?
Any more pics?
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Old 08-17-2009, 10:12 PM   #26807
Capnhowdy
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Yelm, Warshington
Oddometer: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by itsforrest
I have about the same setup as you here in Seattle. I found that the 160 MJ was too big. I went to the 155 from the DJ kit and the bike is very noticeably happier.

What kind of fuel filter are you using? If it's a sintered metal type it may not flow enoguh gas.
What are you using for a vent hose on the cap? When it starts choking, open the cap and see if it picks back up.
What petcock are you using?
If you're not using the stock Suzuki petcock, Is the vacuum port on top of the carb capped off?
Is the fuel hose kinked or pinched at all between the tank and carb? Look for a tight bend in the fuel line.

When checking for fuel flow, check the flow from the drain on the carb float bowl. When you yank the line and just check for flow from the hose you don't know how it flows into and through the carb. I use a length of clear 1/4" hose off the bottom of the carb and see how it flows into a jar or container over a few minutes. If it flow good at first then slows down you might have a tank venting issue.
Thanks for the replies. I'm using the petcock that came with the IMS tank, and I do have a metal type fuel filter. I'm gonna ride it to work tonight so I'll check the venting and if thats not it I'll do the other checks tomorrow. Thanks again guys.
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Old 08-18-2009, 12:25 AM   #26808
2laneblacktop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plodalong
Just checked the ones I took out and they are 5mm by 15mm long standard metric thread (looks like .8mm pitch or 12.5 threads /cm) Have fun, you need to take the clutch out or it will be a lot harder if not impossible.
You don't have to remove the clutch assy, I just did it today, takes a little patience to unscrew the back one, here's what I did:

With the bike laying down,

Sharpened a punch and bump it into the screw head in the loosening direction, it came loose pretty easy, once it was loose I used a magnetized screwdriver to continue to unscrew it until it was out

I kept the front screw in because there seems to be a spring under the unit,... I changed it to the allen after the back one was in

Put the allen screw in with long nose pliers and use a ball tip allen wrench 1 size small for the extra play to easily screw it down into place then tightened it with the correct size

The factory screws are 5mm x 15mm x .8 pitch, but I replaced them with 5mm x 20mm x .8 Allens so I could shim up the head, If you look close you can see two 5mm washers under each allen head.

This is so the holes used to run the wire through clear the top of the NSU unit itself otherwise it sits below and it would be a hassle to get the wire around

You need long nose pliers to do the wire work,...

Stuff a paper towel in the hole below the work so nothing falls into the motor (not shown)

I was ready to take the clutch assy out until I saw someone a few pages back do it this way...



2laneblacktop screwed with this post 02-15-2011 at 09:43 PM
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Old 08-18-2009, 02:07 AM   #26809
kuyaoli
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Location: Bangkok, Thailand
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thanks for this information, I have to do this very soon. Once I find the right time I will do it.

What I am hesitating so is, I hear so many have layed down the bike to do so, wouldn't the bike get scratched when you remove all the bolts from the side cover? I mean the bike might move a round a bit? Even if you put some kartons under it?

Also will the big sidecover gasket not get destroyed once you remove the side cover?

I guess I have to drill the holes into the Allen bolts first and get some wire to do the job.

If it is really possible I will try not to remove the clutch.

Thanks for any answer.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 2laneblacktop
You don't have to remove the clutch assy, I just did it today, takes a little patience to unscrew the back one, here's what I did:

With the bike laying down,

Sharpened a punch and bump it into the screw head in a loosening direction, it came loose pretty easy, once it was loose I used a magnetized screwdriver to continue to unscrew it until it was out

I kept the front screw in because there seems to be a spring under the unit I changed it to the allen after the back one was in

You're correct about the screws though they're a 5mm x 15mm x .8 pitch, but that's not what I used. I used 5mm x 20mm so I could shim up the head, If you look close you can see two 5mm washers under each allen head.

This is so the holes used to run the wire through clear the top of the NSU unit itself otherwise it sits below and it would be a hassle to get the wire around

You need long nose pliers to do the wire work,...

Stuff a paper towel in the hole below the work so nothing falls into the motor (not shown)

I was ready to take the clutch assy out until I saw someone a few pages back do it this way...

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Old 08-18-2009, 03:47 AM   #26810
ADV8
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Location: North of Sydney.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuyaoli
What I am hesitating so is, I hear so many have layed down the bike to do so, wouldn't the bike get scratched when you remove all the bolts from the side cover? I mean the bike might move a round a bit? Even if you put some kartons under it?
I did it on the side stand with a piece of wood under each wheel to lift the bike a few inches.
You could also do it at the next oil change after the oil is drained.
I know a lot don't but the clutch was easy to remove and refit,I used Loctite cleaning agent on the stock retainers and case threads then blue Loctite.
I guess at the end of the day its what works whatever way you do it.

Got back Sunday from a 8000 km + trip to Cape York and back,go the DR.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PfEQmzLt2zM

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Old 08-18-2009, 03:47 AM   #26811
mynamewasmud
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Location: West Virgina transplant in Ohio
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Ok, so all the info I got about glowing pipe while very informative was about 60/40 with more for the glowing pipe. Info from suzuki obtained yesterday was they run lean from the factory and they will glow, so do not give it a second thought and ride.
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Old 08-18-2009, 07:06 AM   #26812
Mezo
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2laneblacktop

Nice shots mate, thats the way to do it


And Les (ADV8) did you take some pics (silly question i suppose) and whats with the road tyre ? just saving the knobbys ?

Mezo.
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Old 08-18-2009, 07:21 AM   #26813
Eugene
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Location: IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuyaoli
Also will the big sidecover gasket not get destroyed once you remove the side cover?
The OEM gasket is a good one. When you take the cover off just go slow and you shouldn't destroy it.
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Old 08-18-2009, 08:02 AM   #26814
GISdood
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Prince George, BC
Oddometer: 855
Quote:
Originally Posted by scrcmedic
Well, all that's OK but DAM don't let the cat out!!!!

P.S. Any decent photo shop SW can "unblur" a plate.
Clearly you've been watching too much CSI. I've worked as a graphic designer using PhotoShop extensively, and you can't make something out of nothing. But hey... feel free to give it a shot and see what kind of something come up with. I'd be happy to stand corrected if you can PROVE it instead of just throwing out unqualified statements.
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Old 08-18-2009, 09:02 AM   #26815
Jammin
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Location: New Delhi - new 'home' for post RTW
Oddometer: 1,535
Mikuni Flat Slide (24mm) Main Jets

I'm leaving next weekend to do the CDR and with all the expected high elevation running, wanted to know what range of Main Jets I should get for the 24mm Flat Slide carb that's on my DR.

The main jet in there now for 700 ft elevation is a 270. What range of jets should I get for riding at 9,000 ft up to 11,000 ft passes?

And, where can I order these from? JC Witney? It's a hex type jet.




thanx,
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Old 08-18-2009, 09:09 AM   #26816
2laneblacktop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuyaoli
thanks for this information, I have to do this very soon. Once I find the right time I will do it.

What I am hesitating so is, I hear so many have layed down the bike to do so, wouldn't the bike get scratched when you remove all the bolts from the side cover? I mean the bike might move a round a bit? Even if you put some kartons under it?

Also will the big sidecover gasket not get destroyed once you remove the side cover?

I guess I have to drill the holes into the Allen bolts first and get some wire to do the job.

If it is really possible I will try not to remove the clutch.

Thanks for any answer.
Not sure what you mean by this, the 6mm bolts that hold the cover on are only 11 Nm torque you can unscrew them with easily, the bike doesn't move at all

I just put down a piece of carpet under the left bark buster and the footpeg and nothing else really touches the ground it's how I always work on them when I have to lay them on the side

As far as the gasket, this bike is new so the gasket came off with the cover with no problems, it didn't have a chance to COOK onto the block yet, but I don't know if that's even an issue with a motor with many miles already on it

Also remove the bolts that hold the oil line in place on the cover and the head so you can push the line out of the way, and remember there's a little "o" ring on the cooler line at the cover that might hit the ground when you take those two bolts out

Pre drill your allens in a drill press/vice if you have one and center drill a start, I used .045 drill bit in the mill they can still break easy if you're not careful

I use standard .032 stainless safety wire, and believe it or not there's a spec ttat's recommended for safety wiring so you don't stress the wire too much, it's 6-10 twists per inch

ADV8 knows these bikes well, clutches typically are not bad to remove, I tried it this way cause it looked doable,...

2laneblacktop screwed with this post 08-18-2009 at 10:15 AM
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Old 08-18-2009, 09:20 AM   #26817
2laneblacktop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8
I did it on the side stand with a piece of wood under each wheel to lift the bike a few inches.
You could also do it at the next oil change after the oil is drained.
I know a lot don't but the clutch was easy to remove and refit,I used Loctite cleaning agent on the stock retainers and case threads then blue Loctite.
I guess at the end of the day its what works whatever way you do it.

Got back Sunday from a 8000 km + trip to Cape York and back,go the DR.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PfEQmzLt2zM

Cool place to ride,..., what's QLD in the vid title ??
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Old 08-18-2009, 10:01 AM   #26818
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin
And, where can I order these from? JC Witney? It's a hex type jet.




thanx,
I see Sudco written on the bowl of your carb. They are a good source. I have had great luck with jetting issues with help from Carbparts warehouse. http://carbparts.com/ Call on the phone with questions
The guy helped me with jetting questions (needles to be exact, They are the hardest to get right IMO) They always had everything in stock and the prices were good too.
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Old 08-18-2009, 10:08 AM   #26819
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2laneblacktop
Cool place to ride,..., what's QLD in the vid title ??
QLD = Queensland, the same way NV = Nevada in the US

It's a state or territory name.

That Red dust would be horrible to follow someone in.
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on one side the sign it said "Private Road", but on the other side it didn't say nothin'
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..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
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Old 08-18-2009, 11:51 AM   #26820
GODSPEED
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DR650 NSU -Neutral Sending Unit screws

Quote:
Originally Posted by sander
Can somebody please tell me the size of the NSU screws? I want to wirelock them but since the dr is my only form of transport I like to have the right bolts before I make a mess . The only thing the dealer could tell me is that they were indeed screws .

Thanks
Check this informative link out:

Top Gun Motorcycles NSU how-to
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