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Old 12-12-2009, 09:21 AM   #29656
ditchbanker
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Idaho-Beneath the smell of sugarbeats
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Birdmove
Any known weaknesses to the new DR650s? I've heard that an earlier model year had some kind of starter problems, and up until a few years back there was a problem with the cylinder base gaskets (now updated). Seems like a very solid motorcycle. The KLR650 shave their "doohickey". DRZ400s seem to have a problem with the automatic cam chain adjusters. Honda XR650Ls-some have a problem wearing out their countershafts way too early.

Jon
A big part of the reason I choose the DR over the KLR was that its issues were a matter of slow improvement, where the KLR, from where I was looking, needed improvement instantly. I was a poor college student when I bought mine several years ago, so these were concerns to me. To protect the KLR, I needed to get nerf bars instead of just a skid plate. The breaks sucked, which was something I felt would need immediate attention. The doohicky was a concern.

The DR primarily had comfort items. Seat. Bigger tank (may be necessary depending on location, I got along fine for a year with my stocker.) Mine came with a rack, so it wasn't a concern. The starter makes funny sounds on mine when cold, but still works just fine. The base gasket started leaking when I switched to semi synthetic oil. Despite the puddles I'm leaving, I'm not dropping enough to really see effects on my fill level between changes. I'm fixing it this winter. All of these deficits were things that could be fixed at my leisure, rather than spending dough on a brand new bike. That was a big consideration for me.

Also, don't forget weak sub frame on XRL.
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Old 12-12-2009, 09:28 AM   #29657
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuyaoli
Anyone can help with this?

Hi guys, finally got my TM40 carburettor from Procycle
Unfortunately I have no idea how to get that part into the bike
I mean, of course there is a sheet which explains the steps but maybe my English is not good enough or I just don't get it.
Anyone has a detailed step by step instruction preferable with pictures which documents the installation?
That would be very very helpful.
Thanks in advance
Hey Oliver,
The carb swap can be done without even looking at the installation notes. You have had the stock carb out of the bike for jetting right? Just remove the stock carb and cables and replace them with the new pieces.

I haven't seen anyone make a step by step installation pictorial. That is on my wish list for things to add to our web site.

There is one step that may not translate easily. On the rubber mount that holds the carb to the engine there are a couple of rubber tabs that locate the carb so it can't be installed at an angle. Those tabs will prevent the TM40 from seating fully into the rubber mount. You have to cut them off flat with a razor blade or sharp knife.

If you have specific questions about the carb installation feel free to email me directly through the www.procycle.us web site.
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www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 12-12-2009, 10:33 AM   #29658
smilin jack
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Lebanon Oregon
Oddometer: 1,225
Chainsaw carry on DR650

Made a wooden chainsaw bar cover from 3/4" plywood yesterday.

It took two pieces about 6" wide by 28" long. The length is determined by the chainsaw bar length. The two pieces are spaced apart by narrow strips of 1/2" plywood, glued and screwed together to make a bar cover.

This bar cover has holes drilled along one long edge to match the steel mount that was made in August. Removed the Kolpin rifle case and bolted the saw bar cover onto the bike.

The chainsaw bar is inserted into the wood sleeve, a bungie is attached to the saw to keep from bouncing out, and ready to hit the hills to open up trails and roads of wind fallen trees.

Here is a picture of the steel accessory rail attachment. Will post pictures when the wood gets painted.

Notice the melted plastic from the previous owner having saddle bags. I made the aluminum heat shields from an old patio door track, and bolted on using existing bolts. Same with the accessory rail.

Dave

smilin jack screwed with this post 12-02-2010 at 09:13 PM
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Old 12-12-2009, 04:10 PM   #29659
smilin jack
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Chainsaw carry on DR 650

OK, here's the picture of the saw on the bike.

Got the bar cover varnished today and mounted on the bike. The plywood was salvaged and don't know what the burn marks are from but used anyway.

The accessory bar mounts on the turn signal tapped hole and the passenger foot peg bolts, so can return the bike to stock configuration quickly.

Hope to go riding soon and try out some wind-fallen tree blocked trails.

Dave
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Old 12-12-2009, 04:15 PM   #29660
smilin jack
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Another accessory

Here's the Kolpin rifle case bolted on the accessory bar.

Dave
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Old 12-12-2009, 05:35 PM   #29661
Paloma Paul
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Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Paloma Arizona
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Kenda 270

I just finished installing a 270 Kenda on the rear. Boy was it a sob to get the bead to seat!!!! Any suggestions for next time on an easier way to seat a bead? AlsoI usually run 24-28 psi for tire pressure on black top, 15 in the dirt with 2 rim locks any suggestions thanxs
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Old 12-12-2009, 05:44 PM   #29662
kuyaoli
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Location: Bangkok, Thailand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle
Hey Oliver,
The carb swap can be done without even looking at the installation notes. You have had the stock carb out of the bike for jetting right? Just remove the stock carb and cables and replace them with the new pieces.

I haven't seen anyone make a step by step installation pictorial. That is on my wish list for things to add to our web site.

There is one step that may not translate easily. On the rubber mount that holds the carb to the engine there are a couple of rubber tabs that locate the carb so it can't be installed at an angle. Those tabs will prevent the TM40 from seating fully into the rubber mount. You have to cut them off flat with a razor blade or sharp knife.

If you have specific questions about the carb installation feel free to email me directly through the www.procycle.us web site.

Thanks Jeff, I guess I just have to start doing it and see what will happen. Good to know that I have to look for some rubber tabs to cut off.

If I encounter a problem I will let you know.
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Old 12-12-2009, 06:24 PM   #29663
ADV8
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Location: North of Sydney.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuyaoli
Thanks Jeff, I guess I just have to start doing it and see what will happen. Good to know that I have to look for some rubber tabs to cut off.

If I encounter a problem I will let you know.
I had a step by step install but must have deleted the folder in my netbook thinking it would never be used.

Here is a basic picture taken a few minutes ago.
You trim the two rubber lugs in this area to make the face flat so the carb sits flush,they normally hold the clamp in place.



The only other thing i did was cut off the other idle adjuster since it is not needed.???
It may be an isolated case but it was to close to the frame for my liking but i have no problem chopping even new TM40's
Just mentioning it not saying it has to be done,might be a one off in my case.







Another reminder to keep an eye on the cheesey sidestand pivot.
My swingarm has a gouge in it now when it started rubbing on the last trip,my DR will be two years old in January and the pivot even lubed was starting to wear fairly quickly.
This didn't work that well,the swingarm angle flattens when riding the bike and the foot can still rub.


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Old 12-12-2009, 07:14 PM   #29664
thumpididump
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Germany
Oddometer: 2,477
I'm planning to get a TM40 carb this winter, to purchase from either Kientech or ProCycle. Does anyone know if there is any difference between the kits they sell? There is a $75 difference in the price and I suspect there's a reason.
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Old 12-12-2009, 07:48 PM   #29665
kuyaoli
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Location: Bangkok, Thailand
Oddometer: 320
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8
I had a step by step install but must have deleted the folder in my netbook thinking it would never be used.

Here is a basic picture taken a few minutes ago.
You trim the two rubber lugs in this area to make the face flat so the carb sits flush,they normally hold the clamp in place.



The only other thing i did was cut off the other idle adjuster since it is not needed.???
It may be an isolated case but it was to close to the frame for my liking but i have no problem chopping even new TM40's
Just mentioning it not saying it has to be done,might be a one off in my case.


Another reminder to keep an eye on the cheesey sidestand pivot.
My swingarm has a gouge in it now when it started rubbing on the last trip,my DR will be two years old in January and the pivot even lubed was starting to wear fairly quickly.
This didn't work that well,the swingarm angle flattens when riding the bike and the foot can still rub.


Les, thanks a lot for your pictures and explanation. I just hope that aside from this rubber tabs I don't have to cut off something.

Did you just lead down all the vent hoses infront of the swingarm? I may have to do that also with the one coming out of my original Californian tank.

How long does the installation of the TM 40 take, if you do it the first time and very slowly? About 1 hour, 2 hours ?
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Old 12-12-2009, 09:17 PM   #29666
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,120
Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpididump
I'm planning to get a TM40 carb this winter, to purchase from either Kientech or ProCycle. Does anyone know if there is any difference between the kits they sell? There is a $75 difference in the price and I suspect there's a reason.
The Procycle one have machined adapters for the manifold/airboot ends.
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Old 12-12-2009, 09:41 PM   #29667
thumpididump
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Location: Germany
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Ah. thanks. ...but how exactly does Kientech's carb fit then?

Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy
The Procycle one have machined adapters for the manifold/airboot ends.
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Old 12-12-2009, 11:56 PM   #29668
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
Oddometer: 2,184
Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpididump
Ah. thanks. ...but how exactly does Kientech's carb fit then?
Loose!

Actually Jesse includes stronger hose clamps to squeeze the rubber boots down onto the carb. In my view this will only work for a while. Eventually the intake boot will crack from being squeezed down to fit the smaller sized carb spigot. I've seen this happen on plenty of other bikes and didn't want folks to have problems with vacuum leaks 2-3 years down the road. The adapters actually make for a somewhat tighter fit and use the stock clamps.
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Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 12-13-2009, 12:01 AM   #29669
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
Oddometer: 2,184
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8
The only other thing i did was cut off the other idle adjuster since it is not needed.???
It may be an isolated case but it was to close to the frame for my liking but i have no problem chopping even new TM40's
Yeah, the extra idle screw tab is not needed and does come pretty close to the frame. No harm done by slicing it off.
__________________
Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 12-13-2009, 12:50 AM   #29670
td42dan
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Joined: May 2009
Location: Maryborough QLD
Oddometer: 27
Just a quick question, can any one recomend a good screen for the dr 650
and any ideas as to how much they are?? i would like a tinted one and one not to tall in height. cheers.
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