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Old 03-28-2010, 12:36 AM   #33166
HugoBLISS
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Taos, New Mexico
Oddometer: 69
Cycra Pro-Bend "Center Reach Mount" Installation

Anyone get the Cycra handguards with this particular mount on their DR? I find there is no clearance between the handguard bar and the front master brake cylinder master banjo bolt. Help, anyone?
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Old 03-28-2010, 06:53 AM   #33167
drsmiley
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Hey Hugo, I installed those same handguards with some new bars over the winter. I have very little clearance myself, maybe 1/4" inch
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:28 AM   #33168
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northyork
After waiting for a couple of weeks my new safari tank has arrived. Installation was tricky to say the least. But the effort was well worth it


WOW! That's the first time I've seen them compared off the bike. That's a supertanker now. Like the big refueling jets that the military has, you can refuel people out in the sticks.
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:51 AM   #33169
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dos Equis
I need the power of the collective:

2006, 5K miles, no engine or exhaust mods.

I replaced my OEM rear shock with a Cogent unit from Rick. I decided to take it out through the top and removed the side covers, seat, snorkel, airbox and outlet tube.

I installed the new shock, put everything back and waited for the next nice day. A few days later, I started her up and headed out to top the tank before a trail ride and it runs like crap. Not, "holy sh*t, this run's like crap" but more subtle, kind of a surge or maybe a bog when rolling on or off the throttle. I returned home and found I hadn't seated the snorkel all the way into the airbox. I figure that was it but it still is running the same. I checked the clamp to the airbox and the one to the carb as well as opening up the airbox to check the filter and it all looks ok.

Any ideas?
Check to see that you didn't crack the plastic body that the choke cable goes through as it enters the carburetor. This can cause the symptoms you describe. If it is broken get the hand choke from Jesse. (cheap fix and eliminates having it happen again).
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:54 AM   #33170
appalachian
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I'm kinda curious about ARTLOCK's question, been thinkin on just removing my NSU also but wasnt sure if you could and every thing work.

Good question man.
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Old 03-28-2010, 09:14 AM   #33171
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by appalachian
I'm kinda curious about ARTLOCK's question, been thinkin on just removing my NSU also but wasnt sure if you could and every thing work.

Good question man.
You might have to disable the kickstand switch at the same time.
Other than this bike, I haven't had a neutral switch since the 70's and wouldn't miss this one it it went away. Will probably get rid of it next time I'm in there. (my stand switch was the first thing to go in a box)
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Old 03-28-2010, 09:23 AM   #33172
243Win
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Port Orchard, WA
Oddometer: 689
Quote:
Originally Posted by TREE
I installed Oxford heated grips and want to add a relay.
Would like to do it near the battery but I don't want to run a single ignition
controlled hot wire all the way back from the headlight area.

Is there any easy connector to tap into around the back half of the bike that will give me hot when the key is on ?
Was thinking of using the tail light circuit but I know you guys have more ideas. TIA.

I used the tail light wire as it ran right past a very handy spot to place the bosch relay I used.

The other switched connections would have been a great idea at the time if I'd had known about them. DOH!
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Old 03-28-2010, 09:40 AM   #33173
BlackBeast
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Location: Ontario, CANADA
Oddometer: 916
Quote:
Originally Posted by 243Win
Make a spare key and just sell them, don't worry about it. Especially if you ship the tank to someone far away, on Ebay for example.

Had a '77 Volkswagen Rabbit many years ago, and lost my key. Called lock smith to come and make a new one from the VIN. I was somewhat shocked to learn that for all of the VW's that year, only ten key patterns existed for all of them.

I sold my original tank with spare key, haven't given it a second thought.
Thanks, probably will sell locally off craigslist; but will meet at a coffee shop instead of my home.
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Old 03-28-2010, 10:02 AM   #33174
996DL
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: too far from the Rockies...
Oddometer: 2,092
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artlocks
Today I finally got around to securing the neutral sending unit in my 2006 DR650. My sending unit screws were barely more than hand tight so it was a good thing I checked. Everything went well until I tightened one of the new replacement screws and the plastic sending unit broke. I was surprised because I did not put much pressure on it.
Upon examination I saw that the wire going into the unit went up and over the underside cylindrical part of the sending unit. This cylinder fits inside the cylinder hole in the case. There is no groove or hole or anything for the wire to go through, so it is just pinched between the sending unit cylinder and the cylinder hole in the case. This makes it impossible to tighten the screws! That is probably why the original screws weren't tight. In all the posts I read about securing the sending unit screws, I never saw this mentioned.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/attac...1&d=1269743435


Q1. Is this normal for the wire to be pinched rather than have a groove or hole where it enters the plastic sending unit?

Did yours have a groove or hole or other provision so the wire was not pinched?
I wonder if mine had a manufacturing flaw.
With the hoards of inmates that have addressed the NSU screws issue, lets not let this question get buried, without some opinions...

I'll be looking into checking mine this spring (low mileage 07) and I've noted this posting, in my NSU issues folder. I'll add a groove in the housing, if I notice this problem... Thanks for posting this potential PIA, Artlocks !



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Old 03-28-2010, 10:17 AM   #33175
Bassmann
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Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Knoxville TN
Oddometer: 19
Picture of NSU

Artlocks,

I think the wiring on your NSU is correct. (I don't think you have a defective NSU)

See link below of pic of another NSU. I know that other DR inmates have completely disconnected the NSU but I'm not certain if they simply "cut the wire" I'm sure you will get more feed-back from folks with more knowledge about this issue.

See http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...9&postcount=38

I was lucky enough to simply remove one screw at a time (as per Jesse Kientz' suggestion) and add locktite to the original screws. Good luck man.
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Old 03-28-2010, 12:54 PM   #33176
ChiliRTF
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Location: Somerville MA
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Heated grip install

Quote:
Originally Posted by TREE
I installed Oxford heated grips and want to add a relay.
I'm installing them right now, and the left hand one went on fine. I'm removing the old grip from the throttle sleeve, and it appears as though the grip rubber is basically fused to the plastic sleeve. Any advice on getting the grip off? Did you have to source an aftermarket sleeve? I'm going to keep carving the rubber grip off, but I welcome other ideas.

EDIT: After expanding my search, I've seen that people like the pro cycle shorter twist throttle sleeve... might be a good thing to have to reduce strain on the cable going to the heated grip. Someone also mentioned using the sv650 throttle sleeve, as it's easier to remove the grip on that one. Someone also mentioned using a brush on a bench grinder to get the old grip off the stock sleeve... probably going to give that a shot.
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Old 03-28-2010, 12:58 PM   #33177
MudInMyBlood
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Victoria, B.C.
Oddometer: 11
No Spark

Hi,

I was riding my '05 DR650 yesterday, stopped, went to to start the bike and no go. Pulled the seat and tank off checked wire connections, looks good, checked for spark and no spark. The bike turns over fine but no spark. Any ideas?

Thanks
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Old 03-28-2010, 01:02 PM   #33178
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,074
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artlocks
Today I finally got around to securing the neutral sending unit in my 2006 DR650. My sending unit screws were barely more than hand tight so it was a good thing I checked. Everything went well until I tightened one of the new replacement screws and the plastic sending unit broke. I was surprised because I did not put much pressure on it.
Upon examination I saw that the wire going into the unit went up and over the underside cylindrical part of the sending unit. This cylinder fits inside the cylinder hole in the case. There is no groove or hole or anything for the wire to go through, so it is just pinched between the sending unit cylinder and the cylinder hole in the case. This makes it impossible to tighten the screws! That is probably why the original screws weren't tight. In all the posts I read about securing the sending unit screws, I never saw this mentioned.

Q1. Is this normal for the wire to be pinched rather than have a groove or hole where it enters the plastic sending unit?

Did yours have a groove or hole or other provision so the wire was not pinched?
I wonder if mine had a manufacturing flaw.

Q2. I am thinking of not replacing the sending unit and living without the neutral indicator. Do I need to do anything other than seal the hole where the wire exits to the outside world?

Do I have to do anything with the little hole in the middle of the cylindrical hole in the case where the sending unit mounts, or the two sending unit mounting screw holes?
What does the other side look like?


Just remove it and plug the hole in the case where the wires come out. Don't worry about the hole made by removing the NSU itself.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artlocks
Q3. I have removed my sidestand switch. From the electrical diagram of the ignition system it looks like the CDI unit has 2 grounds. One is just a direct ground, but the other ground runs through either the side stand switch or the neutral switch when closed. I take it the neutral switch is inside the case and "activates" the sending unit. Since I will no longer have either switch, do I need to wire this point on the CDI unit directly to ground or will the bike start without it?

If so, where is the easiest or best place to ground it? At the junction of the diodes? Do I even need the diodes anymore?

Thanks in advance.
Easiest is...
The clutch switch is bypassed by joining the male/female bullet connectors inside the headlight bundle.
The stand switch is bypassed by cutting and joining the wires.
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Old 03-28-2010, 01:24 PM   #33179
TREE
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Joined: Jan 2002
Location: Nova Scotia
Oddometer: 3,291
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiliRTF
I'm installing them right now, and the left hand one went on fine. I'm removing the old grip from the throttle sleeve, and it appears as though the grip rubber is basically fused to the plastic sleeve. Any advice on getting the grip off? Did you have to source an aftermarket sleeve?
I'm going to keep carving the rubber grip off, but I welcome other ideas.
.
I used a new MotionPro throttle sleeve # 01-0093 for $12 from avisciouscycle.ca

Grip went on easy with a push but snug.
Left grip was much tighter fit, used glue on throttle side, no glue on clutch.





I put in a switched relay today, easy install near batt, no long wires running to headlight.
Used the empty black 2 pin connector at front top of airbox for my + - to run the relay.



It slides into one of these blue sockets in pic below that I wired into the relay energizing circuit.



The black Oxford power wire to battery ground now goes through the relay on the way to battery neg terminal.

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TREE screwed with this post 03-28-2010 at 04:16 PM
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Old 03-28-2010, 01:32 PM   #33180
advfrk
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Location: Central Missinhippie
Oddometer: 712
Does anyone know where I can get case savers for both sides and a new rear brake lever? My crazy ex decided to hit my bike with her mini van and now I'm left trying to fix all the damage. I found all the other parts needed but these. WTF is wrong with women? Edit-don't answer the last question it will take up to much space.
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