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Old 03-29-2010, 02:34 AM   #33211
blackcap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WARRIORPRINCEJJ
I'm thinking larger pilot jet.

Once you get past 3 1/2 to four turns, on the screw, you probably need to go up.


EDIT: Once you get the thing running, sans choke, then you can fine-tune the idle. It sounds to me like the choke is keeping it running, and it is "hanging", at a higher RPM's, because the idle is high.


.
you were thinking right! upped the main jet size from 42.5 to 45 (i think, will check tomorrow, time permitting) and now she runs smoothly. in fact pretty much fixed all the problems i was having. now i just gotta tune in the rest of it, so stay tuned for more requests for help!
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Old 03-29-2010, 07:31 AM   #33212
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap
you were thinking right! upped the main jet size from 42.5 to 45 (i think, will check tomorrow, time permitting) and now she runs smoothly. in fact pretty much fixed all the problems i was having. now i just gotta tune in the rest of it, so stay tuned for more requests for help!

You mean pilot jet, right? I'm thinking the old pilot jet might have a bit of debris in it. Hold it up to the light to see if you can clearly see light through it. The smallest bit of dirt, sand, varnish, etc will cause headaches like this.
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Old 03-29-2010, 07:40 AM   #33213
WARRIORPRINCEJJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap
you were thinking right! upped the main jet size from 42.5 to 45 (i think, will check tomorrow, time permitting) and now she runs smoothly. in fact pretty much fixed all the problems i was having. now i just gotta tune in the rest of it, so stay tuned for more requests for help!
blackcap,


If my input helped, than I am glad.

Just one more thing...

I mentioned this a few pages back. When you go to tune the idle, make sure that the bike is at normal operating temperature (READ: Hot). This will assure an accurate idle setting.

I hope you get 'er dialed. Good Luck.


J.J.


.
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Old 03-29-2010, 07:46 AM   #33214
WARRIORPRINCEJJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870
...The smallest bit of dirt, sand, varnish, etc will cause headaches like this.
+1

vfr is dead-on with this one, in my very humble opinion.

You'd be amazed how easily they can clog. Those circuits are tiny...


.
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Old 03-29-2010, 09:05 AM   #33215
trailrider383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WARRIORPRINCEJJ
+1

vfr is dead-on with this one, in my very humble opinion.

You'd be amazed how easily they can clog. Those circuits are tiny...


.
+ 2. When putting the choke on makes it run better, that means the idle circuit is lean, which means the pilot jet has something in it.
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Old 03-29-2010, 09:17 AM   #33216
Mr. B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobbik
Hi,

after my first season on a bike last year which I spent on a DR650, this year I had to decide if I wanna upgrade (Vstrom came to mind) or stick with what I have and make it a tad more travel friendly. Seat, tank, barkbusters, windshield etc. Well, the tank(IMS) and the seat(sargent) are here and here are some pictures for you to enjoy. First a word about the stock seat/IMS combo. I read people complaining about how tough it is to get it mounted:
efully put the seat on so it touches the hooks without really getting hooked in. Then I placed my f** a*** on it and started rocking a bit while hitting the front brake to create some momentum. Make sure the seat is in the right position otherwise you damage the plastic on the metal hooks. Then I got up and applied pressure towards the tank from the very rear end of the seat with my right hand while banging with my fist on top of the seat where I usually place my a***. Done. YMMV, but it took less than a minute.

Now for the sargent seat. I didn't have a chance to go for long rides so far. (my physio therapist would lynch me if he knew I'm even near my bike right now) but on shorter trips (20-30 miles) it is significantly better than the stock seat. The stock seat is plain torture, I say ... and I do ride bicycles long range ...

So is it bigger, wider, higher softer? Firstly, the seat pan seems to have the same measurements as the stock pan. No I didn't tear it apart, I just looked under it. So that is however good news for everyone who considers having their stock seat done by a local upholsterer.



And here are some pictures of how the seats compare on their business ends:




So, as you can see, it's considerably wider, but not higher. All together, I think money well spent. I can't compare it to a Corbin(I have none, neither saw one leave alone sat on one) but it seems like a leap forward especially for longer trips.

Oh, and that what it looks like mounted:


Hey, thanks for the good look at the Sargent seat. I have wanted to see what they look like. I am also curious why it seems everyong goes for the Corbin over the Sargent. I hope you come back with an opinion about how it works.
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Old 03-29-2010, 09:37 AM   #33217
tobbik
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Thumb LED lights

Since I mounted a set of Denali lights onto a DR650, people might be interested in the mounting process: http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....6&postcount=18
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Old 03-29-2010, 10:03 AM   #33218
Zapp22
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Diy

I did both of mine myself with help from Doug Krieger who has a Marine upholstery shop not far from here. Basically the idea is as the poster showed in pictures of his Sargent. You can carve down the stock seat to flatten the "hump" and make it close to gravity-level [you cannot achieve real "level" because of the tilt of the frame & Pan.... basically as-mounted, the pan tilts upward toward the rear, so that you cannot cut enough to go completely level, or you'd run into the pan, unless you first built up the depth of the foam].
Then widened the seat by about 1.75" by glueing side panels to the stock foam, then recovering with a medium-density foam, and reapplying the stock covers.

there are aftermarket seats for the DR350 that sit higher/softer due to more foam, and I have heard from others that these 'plug and play' on the DR650, and are of good quality, comfy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. B
Hey, thanks for the good look at the Sargent seat. I have wanted to see what they look like. I am also curious why it seems everyong goes for the Corbin over the Sargent. I hope you come back with an opinion about how it works.
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Old 03-29-2010, 10:14 AM   #33219
Zapp22
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Anyone have a new Fairing or Windshield that works?

springtime!
time to re-farkle, new accessories, etc.

Anyone come across a new Windshield or Fairing rig that works well?
My 2C review is that all the tack-on-to-stock-shroud types end up too crowded for me... that is, doing the "tuck" hits helmet on whatever is up there since the headlight/shroud assembly is so close, and the tilt thereof rakes it back sorta into your midsection...
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Old 03-29-2010, 01:44 PM   #33220
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpididump
A throttle tube from an early 2000's Yamaha R6 (from about '98 to '03) goes right on the DR and offers a short twist. And the grip slips off the tube quite easily. If you go to a Yamaha dealer, it's part # 5SL-26240-01-00. They sell for about $10.

The R6 tube is a very popluar mod among the SV650 crowd because of the the short twist. And I know for a fact that the SV650 throttle tube (2003 and newer) fits onto the DR650 because that's what I'm using. The SV650 grip isn't glued onto the tube like that of the DR. When I changed my hand grips, I tossed the DR's throttle tube in the trash and used the OEM tube from my SV650.
We have to start catalogging some of these off-brand fixes, like this throttle tube and the non-vacuum petcock from a Yamaha Raptor that fits the stock tank..etc. There is just so much info out here!! Like the 13 tooth sprocket that fits from another brand.
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Rusty Rocket screwed with this post 03-29-2010 at 01:56 PM
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Old 03-29-2010, 05:20 PM   #33221
Dyno
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A suzuki fable.

A young boy (it's my story, dammit!) caves in and get a DR650SE. 2000 model, pretty good shape, "the Neutral light stopped working last fall".

It's home less than 5 minutes when he turns it on it's side and tears the cover off to rip the clutch out.

Problem # 1: The bolt next to the clutch cable mount. It's open to the elements on the back side of the threads.


(If this bolt comes out of your case intact, put some never seize on it while you still can.)

A few well placed curses and a stainless EZ-lok insert later, the young man returns his attention to the NSU. He looks for the screws that are supposed to be falling out. They aren't. Not very tight, but intact. Instead, he finds a bad solder joint:




The dude re-does the solder joint, and adds red loctite AND safety wire.

If the light stops working again, the guy will ride without worry after re-arranging some wires on the relay.

The moral of this story?

Sometimes a bad switch is just a bad switch.

(But at least now I'm not worried about it, I know what shape the clutch is in, and all the bolts are removable again.)


And then they lived happily ever after.

The End
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Old 03-29-2010, 05:30 PM   #33222
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyno
A suzuki fable.....

The End

I love a happy ending.
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Old 03-29-2010, 05:53 PM   #33223
BlackBeast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobbik
Since I mounted a set of Denali lights onto a DR650, people might be interested in the mounting process: http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....6&postcount=18
Great write up on the seat and the denali's. Have you thought about removing the snorkel?
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Old 03-29-2010, 06:41 PM   #33224
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So what is that plastic gear in there? I don't like plastic parts in motors, especially gears...
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Old 03-29-2010, 07:00 PM   #33225
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Know what I need to do, just wondering if anyone else has experienced this. Last years tire change went over small dent in front rim, this years tire change reveals dent turned into crack (upper left of photo).
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