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Old 04-06-2010, 03:38 PM   #33496
Rusty Rocket
Life behind "Bars"
 
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Goat
I have heard that the manual petcock sold for the Raptor ATV fits a DR tank.
All true. I replaced mine with the Yam part for about $20 (US). You have to block the vacuum line at the carb. Perfect fit and they come with a gasket. (I bought a gasket when I ordered the petcock and didn'nt need it)
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Old 04-06-2010, 03:55 PM   #33497
Elvis70
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Fayetteville, AR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rudolf35
I have a 08 DR that is bone stock save the suspension. I am thinking about the 14 tooth CG. I wonder what that will do to the DR's road behavior? When not on the trails in AR the bike is a commuter. The only thing that worries me is how high will the RPM's go while on the slab; to and from the trail head at 70 - 75mph? Any info would be helpfull.

I live where you trail ride and I have the 14t on the bike and it really isn't a big deal at 70 at all. Still nice and smooth. The sprocket doesn't cost much and if you don't like it will sell easily I am sure.

I was concerned about the highway riding too, but has proved to be a non issue for me.
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Old 04-06-2010, 04:09 PM   #33498
FatChance
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Joined: Jun 2003
Location: Durango, Colorado, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross
so... how'd you make out with the two blond lesbian Albanian midgets
I told you not to ask!
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Old 04-06-2010, 04:34 PM   #33499
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. B
How often does that happen? Is it a one in one hundred type problem, or likely to happen to every bike at some point?
My '01 were finger tight at 51,000km when I checked them.

My '97 had one finger tight and one missing at 28,000km when I bought it (upper chain roller was already ripped out too).

A magnetic sump bolt found the other screw
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Old 04-06-2010, 04:34 PM   #33500
Mr. B
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Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Minneapolis
Oddometer: 1,838
Quote:
Originally Posted by FatChance
We had a 2000 DR650 since 2003 that we sold to another ADVRider last fall and I now have a 2005 DR650 I bought new and neither one had the NSU screws tightened and neither one has had a problem. It is VERY rare to have a screw come out and you're much more likely to crash into a candy apple red Chrysler minivan with 22" tires and driven by two blond lesbian Albanian midgets coming home from a Polka dance turning left in front of you (DAMHIK) than to have the NSU screw come out and explode your engine. I doubt I've heard of even half a dozen actual people who know someone who might have had the NSU problem happen since I got my first DR650 on all the forums I've visited, probably even less. There are more people who have dropped the screw into the crankcase while fixing the "problem" than having the screw fall out by itself. That said, I'll probably check mine the next time it is up on the lift, unless it is really nice riding weather. Otherwise, just buy a new worry bead...
Haha! Thanks for the insight. I'm not one of those worriers, but I'm new to the DR scene and I have to sift through the real vs. hyped concerns. It seems like every bike has a "known problem" that is really given a lot of bandwidth without much cause.

Maybe the next time I'm in Durango I'll stop by and say "hi".
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Old 04-06-2010, 04:51 PM   #33501
ADVBedouin
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: CA. Central Coast
Oddometer: 396
DR650 Handlebars

I really like my black Renthal Fatbars, but I'm not sure what bend/rise they are...didn't need any longer cables or re-routing as they're only slightly higher than stock bars. I used the ProTaper handlebar clamps like those sold on the www.procycle.us site & used my stock mounting bolts with them. It's all worked out great.

Quote:
Originally Posted by appalachian
Who's got what brand of handel bars on ther 650 ? I'm lookin for somthing taller and just curios what the options are. (tried a thread search but nothing found)
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Old 04-06-2010, 04:54 PM   #33502
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. B
Haha! I have to sift through the real vs. hyped concerns. It seems like every bike has a "known problem" that is really given a lot of bandwidth without much cause.
I checked mine and they were both loose. Worth a check, but it's your call.
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In the beginning, there was nothing. Even That exploded
2009 DR650
..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
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Old 04-06-2010, 04:57 PM   #33503
grub
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Joined: May 2009
Location: Waiting for a green light on the red line
Oddometer: 2,181
Quote:
Originally Posted by FatChance
We had a 2000 DR650 since 2003 that we sold to another ADVRider last fall and I now have a 2005 DR650 I bought new and neither one had the NSU screws tightened and neither one has had a problem. It is VERY rare to have a screw come out and you're much more likely to crash into a candy apple red Chrysler minivan with 22" tires and driven by two blond lesbian Albanian midgets coming home from a Polka dance turning left in front of you (DAMHIK) than to have the NSU screw come out and explode your engine. I doubt I've heard of even half a dozen actual people who know someone who might have had the NSU problem happen since I got my first DR650 on all the forums I've visited, probably even less. There are more people who have dropped the screw into the crankcase while fixing the "problem" than having the screw fall out by itself. That said, I'll probably check mine the next time it is up on the lift, unless it is really nice riding weather. Otherwise, just buy a new worry bead...
I have to get over to Durango more often and learn the ways of the world, we just don't have any Albanians on this side of the pass at all.
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Old 04-06-2010, 05:32 PM   #33504
FatChance
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Joined: Jun 2003
Location: Durango, Colorado, USA
Oddometer: 10,191
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grubneets
I have to get over to Durango more often and learn the ways of the world, we just don't have any Albanians on this side of the pass at all.
It is a rather well kept secret.

Let me know when you're over here and I'll show you the mean streets of Durango...
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Old 04-06-2010, 06:46 PM   #33505
Mr. B
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Location: Minneapolis
Oddometer: 1,838
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket
I checked mine and they were both loose. Worth a check, but it's your call.
It doesn't look like a big deal to check. I'm just not going to worry about it. If I get the time and get curious, I'll check it out.
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Old 04-06-2010, 07:14 PM   #33506
rudolf35
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Arlington, TX
Oddometer: 797
Wicked Done deal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Elvis70
I live where you trail ride and I have the 14t on the bike and it really isn't a big deal at 70 at all. Still nice and smooth. The sprocket doesn't cost much and if you don't like it will sell easily I am sure.

I was concerned about the highway riding too, but has proved to be a non issue for me.
I have the 14 tooth CG and spacer on the way to me. Between your observations and some other users I do not think there will be a issue; I tend to over thing issues. Just do eh what?

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Old 04-06-2010, 08:10 PM   #33507
Lornce
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Joined: Aug 2003
Location: Way Out There.
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Okay, I love ADV to death. But the search function really sucks.

How do I check the neutral switch screws on my wife's new-to-her DR650?
Which side case cover needs to come off to access it?

Help me be a star.

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Old 04-06-2010, 08:23 PM   #33508
vnp514
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Eastern Washington State
Oddometer: 629
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lornce
Okay, I love ADV to death. But the search function really sucks.

How do I check the neutral switch screws on my wife's new-to-her DR650?
Which side case cover needs to come off to access it?

Help me be a star.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...5295&page=1003

Start at post #15045

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135295&page=1003(Found the thread from Lucas-he really helped me on this)

Start at post#19791

Pete

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Old 04-06-2010, 08:27 PM   #33509
blackcap
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
Oddometer: 538
Iím looking for someone that has an intimate knowledge of the internals of the DRs cases, particularly the left half. Iíll start with a bit of background to where Iím at today.
  • 5th gear self detonated.
  • Engine was stripped, all bits cleaned out, new transmission and bearing all the way through.
  • During disassembly I noticed that some of the bearings have one seal left in them so I took photos of how the bearings were mounted in the left half of the case so that I could put them back in the correct way.
  • instead of getting OEM bearings and oil seals I went to the local bearing shop and got the equivalents where I could, taking one of the seals out of the sealed bearings so that they all matched the OEM ones that I had pulled out.
  • Once the engine was back in the frame, I went for a quick ride and found that the driven shaft oil seal was leaking after the oil pressure behind it had pushed it out.
  • I then replaced the oil seal with an old OEM seal. It was so old that it split the lip and was useless. I did notice some differences however between the two seals. The OEM one has a lip around the outer mounting surface that looks like it might hold in a little better than the generic one. The OEM seal also has small raised dimples on the back of it that look as though they may hold the seal off the bearing slightly when its fitted and allow for better flow of oil between the seal and bearing, so that the oil can continue through the oil gallery drilled in the casing that leads to the adjacent bearing (I believe this is the drive shaft bearing).
  • I then had another generic seal installed and tried using some silicon (3 bond) to help it stick in place. This pushed out in the same way that the other one did.
So my next step is to try again with an OEM seal and some sort of retaining compound, weather it be silicon, loctite or something else. But Iíve also been thinking about the way in which I installed the bearings and seals. I am hoping someone can confirm the orientation of the seals for the LHS drive shaft and driven shaft. At the moment I believe that I have the seals facing outwards on both bearings.

I would really like to confirm some things about the bearings and the presence of the seals, my fear being that the extra oil pressure Iím seeing at the driven shaft oil seal is a result of oil not flowing through the drive shaft bearing properly (being stopped by the single seal Iíve left in the bearing?). This could mean im running that bearing with less oil than is required which will lead to another failure.

So in summary:
  • what recommendations are out there for a retaining compound for the driven shaft oil seal to keep it from popping out?
  • does anyone have specific details on the presence and orientation of oil seals located in the bearings for the LHS drive and driven shafts?

Any info that will help with the potential decision to pull the engine out and strip it down (again) to check that everything is in the right location and orientation would be appreciated. Thanks guys!
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Old 04-06-2010, 08:35 PM   #33510
aardschok
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Location: State of Apathy
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Beware the "kink"

any one notice the oil line from the cooler getting a "kink"?
I had to put a clamp on just to keep the curve in the hose.



I positioned the clamp so that the flat of the clamp is on the top and bottom of the kink.

Hope this helps others.
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