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Old 04-15-2010, 12:36 PM   #16
CHRIS_D
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toddwmac
For those of us that appreciate the guidance...please don't.
Folks Powercell can be short but he knows his crap. Research his past post, he's a major KTM guy and I would personally take his advice seriously.

Yes I too have adjusted my cables, installed a G2 and even mechanically set my throttle (using set screw on the throttle bodies) to 1.5K RPM. I also have removed my secondary, so this may be why I haven't been experiencing any problems.
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Old 04-15-2010, 12:48 PM   #17
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[quote=CHRIS_D]Folks Powercell can be short but he knows his crap. Research his past post, he's a major KTM guy and I would personally take his advice seriously.

+1, BIG TIME!!! He does know what he is talking about, I have followed his advise on several occasions and all has worked out sweet.
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Old 04-15-2010, 02:01 PM   #18
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G2

I installed mine with the 400 cam but like others have removed the secondary butterflys so I have had no problem what so ever with my cable adjustments.
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Old 04-16-2010, 10:39 AM   #19
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As a follow up, I ended up taking a "hybrid" approach (Hate that term these days). Anyway, I called 2 dealers and both agreed that the barrel adjustments for this amount of play were fine. They made sure to state to be sure to leave 2-3mm play and adjust with the motor off. I also consulted the 690 manual since it does talk about adjusting the throttle. It calls out the barrel adjustments but it also talks about the KTM diag computer.

I did the adjustments at the adjusters and after a day on the trail and time in the city, all is well. The bike ran great but I will bring it up to the tech during my 1st service (300 miles from now) to make sure all is good.

Thanks
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Old 04-16-2010, 01:21 PM   #20
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I think Jody H meant the adjusters up by the twist grip, as the fine tuners. There is another adjuster down by the throttle bodies for cable slack.
Cable slack on the 990 amplifies the poor fuelling/jerkiness that many complain about. Just adjust it to factory spec.(Off my head 3-4mm). You don't need a diagnostic tool for cable slack!.
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Old 04-16-2010, 02:02 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fluffycat
I think Jody H meant the adjusters up by the twist grip, as the fine tuners. There is another adjuster down by the throttle bodies for cable slack.
Cable slack on the 990 amplifies the poor fuelling/jerkiness that many complain about. Just adjust it to factory spec.(Off my head 3-4mm). You don't need a diagnostic tool for cable slack!.

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Old 04-18-2010, 09:42 AM   #22
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Right, I've now done it myself. It is not rocket science and there's not need for a big orange specialist. Just adjust like you normally would and leave a little slack, easy.
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Old 02-06-2011, 12:07 PM   #23
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It's not all about slack.

I took some time today and looked at the idle motor, throttle valves and cables. I think I understand the need to command the idle motor to release the throttle valves. Please take a look at the pictures and video and comment if I'm on the right path.

When adjusting the throttle grip free play we can do it using one of the two adjusters in the front or on the rear throttle cable. The problem seems to be that if we adjust the return (front) cable too short we can resist the idle motor and prevent it from opening the throttle enough for correct idle. The front cable must be long enough so that pushing the grip backwards it stops on the resistance point in the grip itself.

You can see on this video how with wrong adjustment the idle motor transfer movement on the grip.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioJTMVQmgoE

So the idea is to shut off the power when the motor is in it's test cycle and stop it on its disengaged state. Then adjust the throttle so that we cannot pull the bottom (return) cable when twisting back the throttle grip.

Here is a video how I think we can do that. Sorry for my bad English.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2G8ejlxCyFU

PowerCell, what do you think? Will this do the trick?

I'm attaching a picture with the wrong adjustment that puts force on the idle motor.
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Old 02-06-2011, 12:16 PM   #24
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And this is the adjustment that I cannot put any force on the idle motor. It's a bike specific do not expect to be the same slack on your bike. I also have a G2 cam installed.
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Old 02-06-2011, 02:30 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue&Yellow View Post
Right, I've now done it myself. It is not rocket science and there's not need for a big orange specialist. Just adjust like you normally would and leave a little slack, easy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fluffycat View Post
You don't need a diagnostic tool for cable slack!.
If you watch the video sabink posted above - you will see why its not a simple matter non the 990.

The EFI is not like a carb.

Here, I embedded it - but do go read sabink's post


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Old 05-27-2012, 01:43 PM   #26
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Resurecting an old post. I had someone mess with my return cable tension adjustment so I had to find a way to set it all on the road. Hopefully this is helpful. Experts will chime in if it isn't I'm sure. Hopefully with some technical detail.

I referenced the video above from sabink and it would seem I got it right. In fact I'd say it's less fussy than before. I focused on paying attention to the unique sound the throttle stepper motor makes at position 0. To get a better feel for that I looked very closely at the throttle grip for when it moved (like 1mm back and forth) and stop it just at that moment.

WARNING: IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE WITH DOING THIS, DON'T. TAKE IT TO YOUR DEALER. YOU DON'T WANT TO DAMAGE THE THROTTLE STEPPER MOTOR.

SETUP
1. Handlebars straight ahead.
2. Ignition key OFF
3. Emergency cutoff switch OFF
4. Ignition key ON

LOOSEN CABLES FOR ADJUSTMENT
5. Loosened both cable adjusters appropriately. Not too much that they would be pushing against each other at the throttle cam.

POSITION THE SERVO MOTOR WITH EMERGENCY CUTOFF SWITCH
6. Emergency cutoff switch ON
7. Listen closely to servo motor sound and switch to OFF. Repeated 4 and 5 until I was sure.

RETURN CABLE ADJUSTMENT
8. With right hand roll throttle grip to closed position
9. With left hand tighten return cable adjuster (front) just until I feel it pull the throttle cam.
10. With left hand loosen return cable adjuster (front) about 3/4 to 1 turn.
11. Let go of the grip and tighten the backup nut on the return cable adjuster.

THROTTLE CABLE ADJUSTMENT
12. Tighten the throttle cable adjuster (rear) to spec (3 to 5mm) as per the owners manual.

FINISHING PROCEDURE
13. Ignition key OFF.
14. Emergency cutoff switch ON
15. Start it. Ride it.

TEST RIDE AND FOLLOW-UP ADJUSTMENT
It might seem like overkill but I then rode it for the first couple miles smoothly rolling on and off the throttle in the first couple gears to make sure everything was alright and give the bike ECU a chance to learn or complain, stall, cough, backfire, whatever. It rode fine but a few miles later I needed a little more slack taken out of the throttle cable so I repeated steps 1-4,6-7,12-15 again to get it.

Like I said it responded great after I performed all of the above
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Old 03-14-2013, 10:03 PM   #27
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I am going to try this ^^

Mine stalls chronically when the weather is hot & I close the throttle abruptly.

Thanks.
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Old 03-18-2013, 12:43 AM   #28
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Reassemble throttle cable

Hi,
i took my 2010 990R apart a while ago, waited for spare parts and now i lost my memory
Can someone please explain (best in pictures) how to reassemble the throttle cable to the throttle body, i'm lost in what was up and which one was down. I know from pulling the grip i shall see it, but want to avoid time consuming mistakes. Thanks for helping a noob
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Old 03-18-2013, 07:24 AM   #29
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Tune ECU

Tune ECU has a function that was added not too long ago to allow you to force the idle stepper motor to zero so you can properly adjust your throttle cables.
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Old 03-22-2014, 12:24 AM   #30
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Just passing on my recent experience adjusting throttle cables. It may or may not be agreeable, but I will state the facts.

I too recently bought a G2 for my 990 which created additional throttle free play for a total of about 3/8". Way too much and made riding of any type a pain in the arse.

I called my local ktm dealer and told them I wanted to come in and pay them to connect to the computer and properly adjust the throttle cables. The lead tech got on the phone and said, 'let me save you some time and money.' He explained that as long as I don't adjust against the stepper motors, there's nothing worn with adjusting some free play out of the cables.

He said to measure my free play, keep the ruler there on the grip, and adjust a little bit at a time until I'm at 1/8", give or take. Just don't go any further.

I went ahead and tried it and it worked. Bike is much more controllable now and have put 1000 miles on since with no ill effects.

The tech said he'd love for me to come in and spend money, but said there was just no need for it.
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