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Old 04-22-2010, 09:38 PM   #1
Mr. B. OP
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Airhead Wiring Question

I'm wondering if anyone out there has moved the fuses in the headlight bucket to a remote location. Say under the seat or somewhere easily accessable. I've got a '74 R90/6 with an "S" fairing on it and am concidering this mod. using car type fuse holders. Any advice out there? Wire size etc.
Thanks, Brent
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Old 04-22-2010, 09:47 PM   #2
norton73
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I'm with you there. I'm putting a R100RS back on the road. scares me to think I might have to pull the fairing just to replace a fuse.

Luftmiester made a relocation kit, but it's NLA.

Surely some one has a better idea.

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Old 04-22-2010, 10:31 PM   #3
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Used these two fuses on my RS
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Old 04-22-2010, 10:37 PM   #4
Middleweightboxer
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I have soldered blade type fuse holders to the existing fuse posts and left them in the shell on S bikes and run the wires through the existing holes in the headlight shell on RTs leaving the new fuse holder exterior to the shell. Also I have used panel mount Buss fuse holders again mounted exterior to the headlight shell. Both worked fine but after modification I was more worried about shorts than blowing a fuse. In hind sight the original design and fuse was fine and I never burned a fuse other than from my probing.
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Old 04-22-2010, 11:03 PM   #5
Kismet
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Years ago had a 90S with Shoei fairing with external fuse holders. Worked a charm, but don't remember ever having a problem with them.

Now, the /7 with the Rabid Transit always needed fuses for one reason or another, and for each change, had to drop the fairing. I was younger then.
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Old 04-23-2010, 07:10 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norton73
I'm with you there. I'm putting a R100RS back on the road. scares me to think I might have to pull the fairing just to replace a fuse.
Front glass intact with the rubber surround, headlight off, one screw..there it is. No need to pull the fairing.

It is tedious though, when the fuses are easy enough to relocate. Plenty of weatherproof modern fuse holders available.
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Old 04-23-2010, 08:13 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxerboy81
Front glass intact with the rubber surround, headlight off, one screw..there it is. No need to pull the fairing.

It is tedious though, when the fuses are easy enough to relocate. Plenty of weatherproof modern fuse holders available.
I just did this on my 79 RS. The front glass (plastic) must be removed to access the 4 screws, then the rubber channel pulls right out. Not too difficult. And even with 30 year old rubber, still supple and no damage.

Neither the factory manual or Hayes addresses this set up and their procedures are for different types. No way mine can be detached with the glass in place.

I did a fuse relocate to the dash of my S fairing years ago. 65k miles and never blew a fuze. I have left mine as is. Inside shell was all clean and dry. And after getting the light out, it just isn't that difficult so why bother.

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Old 04-23-2010, 08:18 AM   #8
Pelicanglider
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Check Eastern Beaver for some neat electrical solutions just like you are talking about. They sell assembled fuse blocks meant for accessory circuits but looks like they could be easily adapted.
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Old 04-23-2010, 08:34 AM   #9
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I had mine relocated in holes in the shell with the screw type cap, standard glass holders, back when I had a Luftmeister, then Rabid Transit, then RS. It was very rare that I blew a fuse, usually it was me fumbling around in the garage.

I'm back to stock since I have removed the RS fairing and may not put it back on. It wasn't very time consuming to get into the shell with the RS fairing, not sure about the S but it looks easier.
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Old 04-23-2010, 09:21 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasper ST4
I had mine relocated in holes in the shell with the screw type cap, standard glass holders, back when I had a Luftmeister, then Rabid Transit, then RS. It was very rare that I blew a fuse, usually it was me fumbling around in the garage.

I'm back to stock since I have removed the RS fairing and may not put it back on. It wasn't very time consuming to get into the shell with the RS fairing, not sure about the S but it looks easier.
As I recall, pulling the headlight with the S fairing is no problem at all. Just tilt the pod back to access the lower rim, pull it loose then tilt the pod down to pop off the rim at the top.

I have seen the Eastern Beaver goods and they will be where I go for setups I might need in the future. Pricing is such that you will not save much out of pocket to make up your own from scratch and I would expect the quality to be better unless you have the spendy, quality crimpers to do it right.
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Old 04-23-2010, 09:29 AM   #11
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Used to be a product called move-a-fuse advertised in BMW MOA magazine designed specifically for this purpose.

Since I find fuses burn out maybe only every 15 years, I've never contemplated it.
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Old 04-23-2010, 12:03 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the input. I never have fuses blow out either. Just had everything apart and thought I'd save myself some grief if one blew out on a road trip. You know how it is when you get a wild hair up your ass, and think something sounds like a good idea. I'd rather be putting some miles on than sitting by the side of the road with too much stuff torn apart. I may rethink this great idea. Thanks again
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Old 04-23-2010, 12:32 PM   #13
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I think Rick at Motorrad Elektrik has a kit for moving the fuses.
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Old 04-23-2010, 06:12 PM   #14
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Just wondering if there are any downsides to moving the fuses. I dont want to mess up the circuit by using the wrong size wire,extending the fuses too far away etc. My worry is that the circuit functions as it should. Any electrical gurus have some input. Thanks
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Old 04-23-2010, 06:22 PM   #15
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In direct current applications, the length of wire and ampacity of the wire are directly related. In other words, make the wires as short as possible with a good thick wire! In general, and within reason, a 15 amp fuse requires a 14awg , and a 20 amp fuse requires a 12 awg (don't know the metric equivalents, but for the bike, 14 ga. should be fine if you are only running a couple of feet....

And don't forget that one side of the fuse is un-fused, i.e. unprotected by any fuse until it goes "through" the fuse. Again, short wire runs are far better than long ones.

And, frankly, rather than using a fuse, use a pop-up circuit breaker.... you could mount one in a hole through the headlight shell, with the wiring within the shell, quite easily. To reset, you simply push the "pop up" back down...

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