|02-28-2005, 08:58 PM||#1|
Built to Last
Joined: Jun 2004
Location: 39*40'33.86N 104*59'54.69W
Demystifying the bunk re: straightening /truing/rebuilding GS wheels
hi,,,i'm woody from woody's wheel works in denver ,colorado,,,i have decided to put an end to all the misinformation and guesstimating going on regarding truing/re-building/modifying/straightening/anodizing/powder-coating etc the GS series X-laced tubeless wire wheels,,,,same goes for any alloy/cast wheel
i have perused this web site and finally decided to partake in this process,,perhaps to shine some light on this subject,,,i am new at this chat-room stuff so hope you experts take me under your wing and provide me with your tricks of the trade,,,i was told this vendor forum is the optimal place to say what i'm saying ,,,,i do not want to say the same thing over and over again....others have advised me to get a website to share the data
let me start by alleviating the concerns/suspicion of one rider whose front wheel is out of spec within the warranty period,,,i can rest assure you that the machine and it's technician at bmw can and do consistently produce a wheel that turns out within the lateral/left-right and longtitudinal/up-down specs of 1.5mm/.060" or1/16"......these specs are looser than what i consistently true these wheels to.....ie circa 1/3 of the bmw specs..+/- .010''or less are routine if we have a straight rim to start with.
i have ascertained what causes some wheels to go out of true quicker than others....every wheel that leaves here undergoes my rigorous QC process that alleviates the cause of coming untrue. Have done Hundreds..in last 10 years,,,offer one year warranty [pointless] because none have come back..the one wheel that was returned for checking proved way within my tolerance [ 3 x tighter than BMW specs ]
i measure these specs on the inside lips and bead of the rim,,,this is what controls where your tire is located,,,,,measuring from the outside of the rim is only good for an approximation since the rims themselves vary in thickness especially in the area where the rim is welded together,,,whoever is in charge of grinding out the weld spot is a bit enthusiastic 'cuz there is a consistent divot in this area measuring .020" -.080"!!!....anything over .030'' gets cleaned and filled with JB-weld or Devcon and machined to .000''
so...if you are getting readings beyond these limits you are not going to maximize tire life and the handling of these great bikes..... here in Colorado,, chuck holes are the biggest culprits in creating out of round wheels. they hammer the rims especially if you have inadequate tire pressures. they contribute vastly to loosening your spokes...and once your spokes are loose it is a geometric descent into wheel failure....
checking the sound of your spokes and giving a quick spin of the wheel while your bike is on its center-stand are the simplest preventive maintenance measures you can use to ease your mind and get an early start at rectifying a potential problem. your eyeballs can be trusted to notice any hop or wobble when you spin the wheels ,,,your ears can be trusted to notice if all the spokes ring the same or if there extra high or low or dead spokes.,,,,you can NOT assume you have no broken or defective spokes just because all the heads of the spokes are in the rim,,,all to many times we find that the head stays stuck from dirt/corrosion,,,,REMEMBER to check spoke tension with the wheels up in the air,,,checking for spoke tension with the wheels on the ground gives erroneous readings because your bike is actually 'hanging from the rim'....therefore these spokes will always ring higher than the unloaded ones when the bike is resting on the ground!!
i try to explain that what goes on in your wheel is akin to what goes on when you fire a shotgun...hold it tight and you absorb the energy and you can fire it all day,,,,the looser ya hold it the more it is going to hurt you..same goes for your wheel and its spokes...they will get hammered till the head of the spoke pops off(the most common point of failure),,,,it is always better to have tight spokes than ANY loose ones and it is BEST when all 40 spokes are EQUALLY tensioned AND the rim is PROPERLY LOCATED on the hub AND that the RUN-OUT is within or less than factory specs!!!! anything less than that will create problems one way or another,,,it is a package deal
next,,,i want to let ya know that to achieve the desired run-outs we need to start with a rim that is TRUE /STRAIGHT,,,it is absolutely crazy making to try to true bent rims of the bmw/moto-guzzi/aprillia caponord tubeless X-lace configuration,,,,,we have over 42 years of practice at straightening bent objects,,,if i can not straighten it for far less than you can buy a new one,,,i don't know who wants to!!!!...these wheels are unlike regular spoked wheels and it is near impossible to get the straightening equipment situated to perform the job of straightening...hence they need to be completely dismantled,,,straightened/replaced and re-laced and trued
we routinely save 90% of what others called impossible to do wheels...woody's wheel works has been in operation since '73,,,i do not advertise,,,this business has been run by word of mouth from satisfied customers many of whom have egged me on to put my two cents into the fray and create a fact based data base for all of you so that you can explore your options and make better decisions,,,i am rather dismayed that there is so much BS in these chat-rooms,,,where's the beef?????,,,i intend to give you straight facts and usable info,,,please pass the word
we can enhance and personalize your bike/wheels,,,,make 'em stronger ,,,,shinier,,,unique while they are apart,,,,folks, we have done more wild and crazy setups in wheels than you can imagine,,,,tell me what you would like to do and let me help you bridge the gap,,,now that get's my juices flowing....
i would like to express my kudos to Ricardo Kuhn/John MacDonald for their effort in trying to convey their adventures in rebuilding /truing these wheels via the thesis they wrote on this subject....and to Tim Bond,..he was the only other person i know of that is/was willing to rebuild these,,,,hope i can synthesize their and my wisdoms into easy to use and understand commentary...'mastery is no mystery to me'...
sincerely and le bon temps roulette,,,
tg 'woody' witte,,,master wheel-smith
FYI-,,,Tim Bond has moved on to the great wheel building center in the sky in the early part of '09,,,his services and integrity will be much missed. i had the good fortune to meet him , albeit in the last days of his ongoing struggle with Hepatitis.,towards the end he too surrendered re-building the X-laced wheels along with Ricardo Kuhn....they told me that they were getting too many migraines,,,,So have many others and that included me
last but not least,,, Here is Ricardo Kuhn and Jon Jen's report on how to rebuild these:
woody's wheel works screwed with this post 03-30-2015 at 09:52 AM Reason: correct spelling
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