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Old 05-22-2010, 02:16 PM   #35386
Northyork
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Location: Canada
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fuel chart, sorted by average fuel consumption

It is raining around here, so I decided to update the chart with the latest info.

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Old 05-22-2010, 03:08 PM   #35387
Garak
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Location: Victoria, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colorado Col Rider
I'm curious about what distances I can expect. Smilin Jack said expect about 450 miles a day, Sounds right to me, what's the consensus with that?
I've done 750 mile days on my DR, its a long haul on a bike like this. If you allow yourself 18 hours or so, its not bad, although I don't know that I'd feel like racing a bicycle the next day . That having been said, I don't often feel like racing a bicycle at all so YMMV.
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Old 05-22-2010, 03:23 PM   #35388
Keith
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Quick question for those with RAD hubs on their Supermoto setups. Is there a specific spacer for the disc side of the front hub? When I went to install my second hand supermoto set with my stock spacer, the tire is rubbing the left fork leg pretty good. Making me think that a longer than stock spacer is need to push the wheel over to the right a bit, so as to center everything up.

Idears?
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Old 05-22-2010, 03:48 PM   #35389
YnotJP?
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Philippines and Seattle
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Colorado Col Rider, You do know that you will have to write a report on both of the rides, DR 650 and the Road Bike, and post it here, and pictures are always nice.
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Old 05-22-2010, 04:11 PM   #35390
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith
Quick question for those with RAD hubs on their Supermoto setups. Is there a specific spacer for the disc side of the front hub? When I went to install my second hand supermoto set with my stock spacer, the tire is rubbing the left fork leg pretty good. Making me think that a longer than stock spacer is need to push the wheel over to the right a bit, so as to center everything up.Idears?
Nope. The RAD hubs use the stock spacers. They fit just like stock hubs.
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DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
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Old 05-22-2010, 07:15 PM   #35391
TrophyHunter
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Northyork - thing of beauty! Thanks for doing that. When I finally get around to opening the carb, I'll get the set up.

I'm currently in the middle of ProCycle's Shock Solution Kit with a heavier spring. Evidently, I'm not tall enough for my weight. ProCycle's instructions on their site help a lot and the Race Tech video (included) adds the finishing touch.

One tricky item but straight forward for a back yard mechanic.

It's all a puzzle, just get the pieces in the right place.
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Old 05-22-2010, 08:28 PM   #35392
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Bike just shut off today. Moved the wiring harness around a little and was able to get it to start. Drove 100 yards and it quit again. No headlite no starter. Nothing. The wires that seemed to get it going when I moved them were the ones coming outta the keyswitch.
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Old 05-23-2010, 01:00 PM   #35393
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Not good.
Carefully check cable and wire bundle routing. The bundle going into the ignition may be abrading somewhere, or is being pulled on by mis-routed Speedo or clutch cable. Check everything as you turn bars to and fro. May help shed light on where the problem lies.

Take everything off .... tank, headlight shroud. Have a long look. Lets hope its something simple.

If its isolated to the ignition wires right under the switch, then you can disassemble things and UN-PLUG the ignition switch from main bundle, then using Torx Security bit, you can un-bolt the ignition switch, install new a one which comes with NEW wiring/plug.

Take your time, look for abraded wire that is grounding somewhere or a wire pulled out of connector or something. Use VOM meter to check for continuity as you "wiggle" wires. May turn up where fault is.

Good hunting.
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Old 05-23-2010, 02:41 PM   #35394
miniroot
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Oddometer: 355
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket
Bike just shut off today. Moved the wiring harness around a little and was able to get it to start. Drove 100 yards and it quit again. No headlite no starter. Nothing. The wires that seemed to get it going when I moved them were the ones coming outta the keyswitch.
I had a similar fault with my DR200. Taking the keys out and reaching in behind the light to jiggle the wires always got it to start. Until it didn't. And then I had to tear it apart on the sidewalk, 20km from home or work.

Turned out that the fault was a loose battery terminal. Those suckers need tightening with a spanner, not a screwdriver.

The only explanation I can come up with for the red-herring fix of jiggling the wires was that getting off the bike and rooting around moved the bike enough to move the battery or associated cabling around and get contact.

A prime example of correlation not being causation.

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Old 05-23-2010, 02:52 PM   #35395
Keith
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle
Nope. The RAD hubs use the stock spacers. They fit just like stock hubs.
So, I got my wheels mounted up and everything fits nicely, except...

It looks like the offset of the front wheel is goofy. I have maybe 1/8" clearance from the tire to the left fork leg. The right leg has waay more room. So, I'm guessing my front rim needs to be loosened and shifted over, so as to get some even clearance going on.
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Old 05-23-2010, 04:06 PM   #35396
kezzajohnson
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
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Photos

Quote:
Originally Posted by Luushen
Cheers Luushen. I'll figure it out.
The left hand pipe is actually a dummy. Took a moulding of my supertrapps end cap and made a resin casting of it. Painted it Alluminium and slapped into a length of 90mm PVC tubing to make a tool kit to carry tyre levers, stand, repair kit etc.
"just kids having fun"
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Old 05-23-2010, 04:56 PM   #35397
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith
So, I got my wheels mounted up and everything fits nicely, except...

It looks like the offset of the front wheel is goofy. I have maybe 1/8" clearance from the tire to the left fork leg. The right leg has waay more room. So, I'm guessing my front rim needs to be loosened and shifted over, so as to get some even clearance going on.
It sounds like whoever laced it didn't have a clue. It just needs to be shifted over. You can do that with the wheel mounted on the bike and tightening spokes on the right side and loosening them on the left.
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www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 05-23-2010, 06:00 PM   #35398
Elvis70
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Fayetteville, AR
Oddometer: 5,056
Quote:
Originally Posted by barko1
I just got a nice case from Sears! I found it on the thumper talk forum I think. They were 50% off and it is really a pretty nice case, especially for $40 delivered. No pics yet but if you are interested I can snap some.
Post em up if you get a chance. Sorry for the late reply been busy, including riding at the SLAP rally yesterday here in AR.
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Old 05-23-2010, 06:21 PM   #35399
Elvis70
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Location: Fayetteville, AR
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OK got a question.

I feel my bikes bars are not lined up by just a bit even though the fender is straight over the front tire and I have loosened the mounts and squared up the bars, I know how they get tweaked in a fall with those rubber mounts.

I hit a horse a couple of years ago and just don't feel right anymore. My pro tapers look straight, but it seems to me the triple tree itself is off bit.

Can the top and the bottom where the fender mounts be twisted in relation to each other?

I swear when I am breaking and my weight is going forward on the bars that it is feels uneven, like the bike isn't stable on center. It also just doesn't drop into to turns naturally. Particularly at slo speeds like it used to.

Any thoughts?
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Old 05-23-2010, 06:38 PM   #35400
Elvis70
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Location: Fayetteville, AR
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Suspension question. My DR has not been lowered but if I reduce the preload on the rear enough to get it soft enough to suit me it will barely stand on the kick stand is standing so straight up. I put more preload back in because of this and it is just too harsh (I weigh 150 and only a small factory rack bag on the rear). Also would reducing the shock compression increase sag at all? Thinking I may need the shortened stand on a un lowered bike.

How many inches of sag should I have and how much more when I sit on it? It don't move much when I sit on it.

How much impact could this have on my perceived handling problems mentioned in my last post?

Thanks for any insight from the DR gurus.
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