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Old 05-23-2010, 09:51 AM   #1
Worroll OP
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Rear shock oil weight and amount for 2008 KLR650

I need to know the correct amount and weight oil for a 2008 KLR650.

I was swapping the rear spring, and saw the air valve on the top of the shock, I didn't know at the time that is was for filling the shock with nitrogen and thought maybe it was a modified shock and used for air pressure adjustment, so I pushed it and gas came out, followed by spewing oil. So I need to flush the oil and refill it with the proper amount then have it filled with the nitrogen. The oil did look VERY dark, 10,000 miles are on the shock.
I tryed seaching and found the correct volume for a <07 klr but just says fill with 'shock oil'.

Also the dampening adjustment at the bottom of the shock, what I read it should have 4 positions, did it get upgraded to step-less adjustment for 08?

Thanks!
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Old 05-23-2010, 10:40 AM   #2
trailrider383
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I don't think you should have any oil come out of that valve. It sounds like you need a new bladder in the reservoir.
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Old 05-23-2010, 11:09 AM   #3
TNC
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Hopefully Sasquatch will chime in with the exacting info on this, but isn't the stock KLR shock an emulsion shock? I wasn't even sure if it had a membrane or the nitrogen in a separate enclosed cell. It may not be too odd for some oil to come out of the valve. I've been into piggyback Showa and KYB models but not the OEM KLR shock, so I'm no expert.
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Old 05-23-2010, 11:57 AM   #4
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I did a non-klr specific search about shock oil, and apparently there is "shock oil" that is different than fork oil that must be used. My local M/C place didn't have any, so I gotta find a place online.

So now I just need to know if the 08 shock takes the same amount of fluid as the previous gen, 130cc's.

I think oil coming out was what should have happened, steps 24-25 here -

http://calgarydualsport.tripod.com/k...procedure.html

When I initially pressed the valve only gas came out. I played with it a bit, compressed it, and hit it again, thats when some gas followed by oil came out.
The instructions have you add the oil during assembly into the shock tube, but I think it should work adding it thru the air valve. I'll put some alcohol in and work the shock, flush out all the old oil, then hook a vacuum up to the air valve, working the shock in and out to get all the alcohol out. then add the new oil, work the shock to get it thru everything, then pick up the instructions at step 24.
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Old 05-24-2010, 11:34 AM   #5
trailrider383
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Oh I get it now. Your shock doesn't have a reservoir. My Bad.
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Old 05-25-2010, 03:21 PM   #6
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I picked up some shock oil from my M/C shop. There was 5w and 10w, I went with the 10w because I am 230# and will be carrying a lot of gear.

I still need to know the correct volume. The shock was updated in 08, so I'm not sure.
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Old 05-25-2010, 04:18 PM   #7
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Even for an emulsion shock, I'm surprised they don't have a bleed process which kind of takes out the concern about the exact amount used...at least as long as you have enough to get the bleed done.
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Old 05-29-2010, 07:26 AM   #8
larry manton
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KLR shock

I put 7wt in mine and that by many is considered too heavy, 5 wt is optimum. If you have any questions on KLR shock Holycaveman is the guy to address. He is the guru on KLR shock and a great guy to address any tech question too. I built my shock up on mine using a remote fox reservoir with a Race Tech gold valve, and he was of great help. Another tip on the rebound adjust, anything higher than 1 is pretty restrictive. I think you'll find the spring upgrade will be an imense improvement as the stock one is something like 100# too light. The KLR will never be a Husaburg but the spring upgrade makes an imense difference, I think you'll like it.
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Old 05-29-2010, 10:22 AM   #9
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I emailed Sasquatch and he says the new ones take the same amount of oil, so I went with that.

As for the weight, I guess I'll find out how 10w works. Already got it filled up and jacked with nitro. I am 240 fully geared and will have a fully loaded bike, so we'll see. If it's to bad I can change it out.

The 08's have a step-less adjustment for the rebound.

I can't wait to get this back on the road, upgraded rear spring, put progressives and heavy oil up front, and a 685cc kit. Should be like a whole different bike!
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:38 PM   #10
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Worroll View Post
I emailed Sasquatch and he says the new ones take the same amount of oil, so I went with that.

As for the weight, I guess I'll find out how 10w works. Already got it filled up and jacked with nitro. I am 240 fully geared and will have a fully loaded bike, so we'll see. If it's to bad I can change it out.

The 08's have a step-less adjustment for the rebound.

I can't wait to get this back on the road, upgraded rear spring, put progressives and heavy oil up front, and a 685cc kit. Should be like a whole different bike!
Would you be so kind as to post an update on your experience with the oil and what psi you used when you refilled it with nitro?
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:50 PM   #11
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Alcohol attracts water. Use Maxxima suspension clean or other specific product, or just flush it with suspension fluid.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Worroll View Post
I did a non-klr specific search about shock oil, and apparently there is "shock oil" that is different than fork oil that must be used. My local M/C place didn't have any, so I gotta find a place online.

So now I just need to know if the 08 shock takes the same amount of fluid as the previous gen, 130cc's.

I think oil coming out was what should have happened, steps 24-25 here -

http://calgarydualsport.tripod.com/k...procedure.html

When I initially pressed the valve only gas came out. I played with it a bit, compressed it, and hit it again, thats when some gas followed by oil came out.
The instructions have you add the oil during assembly into the shock tube, but I think it should work adding it thru the air valve. I'll put some alcohol in and work the shock, flush out all the old oil, then hook a vacuum up to the air valve, working the shock in and out to get all the alcohol out. then add the new oil, work the shock to get it thru everything, then pick up the instructions at step 24.
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Old 04-24-2013, 05:52 AM   #12
Worroll OP
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I filled it with 150psi of nitrogen. I stopped by my old work, they build pressure switchs, so they have large high pressure nitrogen tanks I used to fill it.

I did use alcohol to clean it. Perhaps there are better options, but after I had it thoroughly flushed I used a vacuum pump to evaporate out any remaining alcohol.

The dampening was good. It's now about 12K miles later. 10k of that was riding cross country and back. The bike is drastically different than it's stock form, but I can not really say if the 10 weight oil was better or worse than 5wt.
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:09 AM   #13
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Worroll View Post
I filled it with 150psi of nitrogen. I stopped by my old work, they build pressure switchs, so they have large high pressure nitrogen tanks I used to fill it.

I did use alcohol to clean it. Perhaps there are better options, but after I had it thoroughly flushed I used a vacuum pump to evaporate out any remaining alcohol.

The dampening was good. It's now about 12K miles later. 10k of that was riding cross country and back. The bike is drastically different than it's stock form, but I can not really say if the 10 weight oil was better or worse than 5wt.

Chances are its worse unless the valving was stacked for 10w fluid and your weight. You can play with oil weights for tuning the shock, but something drastic like going from 5 to 10 could just be ugly.
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:59 AM   #14
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I didn't mess with any valving, although I think I have the adjuster turned down all the way. No ill effects, not overly firm, although lighter oil may be better. It's certainly not worth my time to change it at this point.
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:22 AM   #15
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Worroll View Post
I didn't mess with any valving, although I think I have the adjuster turned down all the way. No ill effects, not overly firm, although lighter oil may be better. It's certainly not worth my time to change it at this point.

Stock Valving and your weight, plus gear, 10w probably made it better then.

Next time you pull the shock, consider pulling it apart and adding some shims, maybe add a flutter valve, and then go with a lighter fluid. The lighter fluids tend to perform better and seem to make the shock easier to tune, but requires stiffer shiming.
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