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Old 05-26-2010, 06:45 PM   #35551
Elvis70
No speed traps in the sky
 
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Fayetteville, AR
Oddometer: 5,053
Ok I just oredered some aftermarket bearings for the DR steering stem and looking for advice.

I can pull the forks, bars and all that, I did the fork seals myself, but never done bearings.

How hard are they to get out, need any special tools? What about dropping in the new ones? Do they rest on a lip or something so they I will for sure get them set in the proper depth?

Thanks for any words of wisdom.
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Old 05-26-2010, 06:51 PM   #35552
Elvis70
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Fayetteville, AR
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Gabe I am 45 minutes north of 40 up 540 from Fort Smith, AR to Fayetteville, AR. Not sure when you are leaving but I will be gone some in the near future but my bro will be house sitting. I got a nice fenced back yard to camp, no extra bedroom since the baby took it. I got a nice big long leather couch too. And of course showers.

Gonna be a long one. I did that drive a few years ago from San Francisco Bay down to 40 and all the way across to Mississippi just out side Memphis in an 83 Porsche 944. Great car to do it in but no cruise control sucked a bit. Had my little faithful dog in the passenger seat. I stopped in Flagstaff, and then New Mexico, and then in Oklahoma, and then to my destination.

Your ass will hurt, but it will be a hell of a story about the one time........
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Old 05-26-2010, 07:35 PM   #35553
plugeye
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Garland, Texas
Oddometer: 3,209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elvis70
Ok I just oredered some aftermarket bearings for the DR steering stem and looking for advice.

I can pull the forks, bars and all that, I did the fork seals myself, but never done bearings.

How hard are they to get out, need any special tools? What about dropping in the new ones? Do they rest on a lip or something so they I will for sure get them set in the proper depth?

Thanks for any words of wisdom.
the top bearing comes right out. the races are easy, tap around each races' circumference to drive out from the opposite side of the neck with a drift. the lower bearing is a little trickier. a good method is to use a dremel with a cutoff wheel to slice a deep notch through the bearing without damage to the stem. then use a chisel to split the bearing cage to remove from the stem. pull off the old seal. install new seal & pack both bearings with grease. put the lower bearing in your freezer for an hour. it should slip right onto the stem, tap it down until its seated on the seal like the original was. tap in the new races & reassemble. good luck, its fun.
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Old 05-26-2010, 08:08 PM   #35554
plugeye
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Location: Garland, Texas
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more bearing data

when you tap in the bearing use a short length of pvc that will drive the bearing center in. tap in the races with a brass or wood drift until they seat on the lip in the neck.
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Old 05-26-2010, 08:26 PM   #35555
Yokomo
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: The Little Apple
Oddometer: 2,140
Thanks for the link basketcase!

I might be selling my:
purple handguards
stock tank
rear pannier racks
5 gallon bucket made into a windscreen
LMK
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Old 05-26-2010, 08:39 PM   #35556
web037
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Sierra foothills
Oddometer: 165
problems idling after being dropped

I have noticed that anytime I drop my DR on it's right side it runs like crap for 10 minutes or so, won't idle, runs rough etc. If I drop it on the left it is fine. Obviously the best solution to the problem is not to drop it but some times I like to push my skills a little and it happens. My theory on the problem is that the tank vent to the charcoal canister (California bike) is on the right side and the cutoff valve is either not working correctly or lets enough raw fuel into the canister to make it run rich for a while.

Short of a complete canisterectomy is there anything I can do to solve this? I was considering putting a valve in the hose going to the canister so I could vent the tank to atmosphere when riding offroad and back to the canister the rest of the time. Technically it is illegal to intentionally allow gasoline to evaporate in California but here is what I think of that.
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Old 05-26-2010, 10:21 PM   #35557
dylandr
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: South Africa
Oddometer: 204
Eh? Convert to stock

Quote:
Originally Posted by jenx
Yup, that's right. In that case he'd be running rich on the 150 mikuni.

My bike is a US import, which did not have the adjustable mikuni needle.

Apologies, Dylan, I think trailrider is right.
No worries.
Last night I converted back to stock (temporary) I can't remember what clip the needle clip was on when I got it. I, this morning took it to work and tried hammering it on a few straights! The acceleration is smooth and the power is there.... but the top end still sucks. The needle is out 2 1/4 turns out.
Carb guru's? Advice? Spoke to the okes at loxons suzuki and they are trying to source a DJ kit for me... until then....

Cheers
Dyl
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Old 05-26-2010, 10:23 PM   #35558
TrophyHunter
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 1,793
Procycle Shock Solution rebuild

I will start this by saying if I knew it was only $100 to have a professional at Race Tech or Procycle rebuild a shock, I would've seriously entertained that. I'm glad I didn't. I learned a lot about hydraulics and patience.

To start with, I purchased a Shock Solution Kit from Procycle after discussing my (lack of) riding style and the fact my height was too short for my weight. After the last ride where I pushed the DR hard and bottomed out the rear (hearing "kachunk" yelled on the radio from a rider behind me) about 10 times....it was time for some upgrades. The DR is well known for being softly sprung, pretty much set up for a 170 pounder with a mild riding style.

The Race Tech instructions along with the Procycle Installation Guide helped as I muddled along. Both Procycle and Race Tech support lines were very willing to help and had top knotch customer service.

After watching the hour long video included with the Gold Valve, I got started.

Stock shock removed


Leaving an empty center section after taking out the airbox, carb intake, etc.


Took a variety of photos to document the order of the parts as they were removed.


After bleeding off the 175 PSI of nitrogen from the bladder, I made a special tool called for by Race Tech. Didn't price theirs, but mine was in a bucket in my garage.


After removing the bladder and popping the cap off of the main shock tube, I used the tool to depress the seal head into the tube far enough to access the clip ring.


Note: I should have cut the PVC in half as to not have so much length pushing into the tube - made it hard to remove the tool to access the snap ring. I cut it - now I have two!

The nitro bladder, shaft with stock valve, seal head, etc & the body.


IMPORTANT: Race Tech warns (and for good reason) about taking the nut off of the shaft. It has internal and external peening (smashed onto the shaft) and will not come off without breaking something unless you follow specific steps to properly grind off the peening. With the DR it's not as critical because there isn't an adjustable rebound valve in the center of the shaft. Mess up this step and buy a new center shaft. I'd vote for if you have adjustable rebound damping on your shock, have a pro grind the nut because the internal peening holds the damper valve in the shaft.

Sooooooooooooooooo, my new center shaft arrived.... kidding. I did mess it up a little but was able to recover with a 12mm x 1.75 die. Race Tech provides you with a replacement nut for either a 1.25 or 1.50 pitch, but not the 1.75. Procycle said they've never heard of a 1.75 being on there but I took the nut to two hardware stores to check the pitch prior to buying a die and replacement nut.

Put the guts on a bolt in the order removed so I could keep everything straight.


Race Tech provides you with a one time access code to their valving computer online. Go to their site, enter bike, slow fat old guy (in my case) and it spits out the valve stacks for High/Low Speed Compression and Rebound damping. Also provides spring rate, compression adjustment and fork set up in case you buy their emulators.

Broke out the caliper and bought a digital micrometer and got to work on the valve shims. Race Tech provides you with some popular stacks pre-bagged. No such luck. Dump 'em out and start measuring.

Organized the shims by outside diameter and thickness and got the stacking order from the recommended settings.


Built my stacks for the Gold Valve and drilled the required 5/64" hole in the valve per instructions.


Intructions say to "surface" the base washer using 320 grit sandpaper and a piece of plate glass (since it's flat). Home depot has small panes pre-packaged for under $2.


After filling the bladder tube with SHOCK FLUID, I pushed the bladder in and installed the snap ring. Fluid is supposed to spill over to prevent air from getting in, hence the cat litter box. Zap it with 40 PSI to seat the bladder and fill the main tube. The newly built main shaft with shim stacks and Gold Valve are cycled to get air bubbles out. Special tool used again to push seal head down as you release the bladder pressure. Snap ring, zap the bladder with 20 PSI to seat the seal head and reassemble the remaining parts.


Brent (BC330) at MotoWorld got me right in for a recharge on the nitro and back in the bike it went. Lubed all the pivot points and cleaned everything I could access prior to install.


If your just changing the fluid, which IS a maintenance item, this is a pretty simple task. My shock fluid was milky and a bit foamy (probably from all of the water crossings) so it was good I took this on.

CAUTIONS: Race Tech tells you in the instructions to buy some RED loctite for the nut re-install. They also mention lubing the seal head and shaft as you install new pieces. Shock fluid in the kit is RED and provides a ready lube. Even though RT tells you to go buy some loctite, they actually provide a small vial (unmarked) with the kit...see where this is going? DO NOT use their little red vial of possible shock fluid to lube anything.

As I slid the seal head (lubed - I thought) onto the shaft, followed by the base washer and shims, valve, etc......my fingers were getting sticky. 3, 2, 1....S$%#.......ripped everything apart and soaked in Kerosene, brushed, rinsed, dried, (properly) lubed and re-assembled.

A great learning experience with some tech support help and BC330 comin' thru in the end.
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2005 DR650 2003 DRZ-250
2013 HD Road King

"It's a small amount of gas, but it represents a long walk" My Dad...

TrophyHunter screwed with this post 05-27-2010 at 08:44 AM
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Old 05-26-2010, 10:58 PM   #35559
jenx
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
Oddometer: 553
Quote:
Originally Posted by dylandr
No worries.
Last night I converted back to stock (temporary) I can't remember what clip the needle clip was on when I got it. I, this morning took it to work and tried hammering it on a few straights! The acceleration is smooth and the power is there.... but the top end still sucks. The needle is out 2 1/4 turns out.
Carb guru's? Advice? Spoke to the okes at loxons suzuki and they are trying to source a DJ kit for me... until then....

Cheers
Dyl
Let me know how the dj works! I'd take my plug spanner along and pull one plug after a full on run and cut-out. That'll tell you whether you need to drop the needle.
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Old 05-27-2010, 01:34 AM   #35560
2wheelgypsy
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Rockaway Beach, NY
Oddometer: 32
Looks like all systems are a go gentleman. I will be throwing myself at the mercy of the road. Got everything but some tire irons which I will pick up tomorrow. That winshield looks great but I ain't got the dough or time. I will look into it when I get back to the dirty south. josh my man,, I will surely be give you a call as Memphis would be a great resting place. I will be using my sleeping bag as an ass pad. Mounted everything on the bike to see how it would look. Looked extremely ghetto, but functional thanks to racheting tie downs. again thanks for all the precious feedback. Will take plenty of picks. Wish me luck gentleman. I am really doing this!!!
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Old 05-27-2010, 01:50 AM   #35561
YnotJP?
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Philippines and Seattle
Oddometer: 2,011
2WG, Good Luck, have a safe trip.

And with any luck at all, you will look back on this as one of your great rides.

You will be telling the story about the time you rode your DR650 across the country.
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Old 05-27-2010, 04:20 AM   #35562
LXIV-Dragon
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: St Cloud, FL
Oddometer: 593
Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpididump
the best tire changing how-to I've ever seen:


part 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qw0B2gIwbBg



part 2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTatadVNA-c
+1

must have watched this a dozen times. As he says if you are forcing it you are doing it wrong!
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Old 05-27-2010, 05:12 AM   #35563
TrophyHunter
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 1,793
Fuel shutoff

Web - there's a small ball valve in that system (for CA) that is not supposed to allow fuel to pass into the canister. It hangs up sometimes and then wet charcoal backs up into it.

Son-in-law had the same problem. Rip that stuff outta there.
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2005 DR650 2003 DRZ-250
2013 HD Road King

"It's a small amount of gas, but it represents a long walk" My Dad...
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Old 05-27-2010, 05:23 AM   #35564
12ARX
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Joined: May 2009
Location: QLD, AUSTRALIA
Oddometer: 1,279
Quote:
Originally Posted by 12ARX
Any harm if I pull snorkle, drop needle clip 1 position (Oz bikes have adjustable needle and is on 3rd from the factory) and turn out mixture screw 1/2 a turn?
Did the above and drilled the slide.. WOW! Different bike Still feels a bit hesitant when winding her up in the higher revs but..

Also did headlight switch (waterproof switch in headlight cowl) a weather resistant 12v socket, uhf holder (for when I am hunting) and chucked on an inline fuel filter.




Just wanna add a big thanks to all the guys n girls on here for their valuable input.. and all the others that have no valuable info whatsoever but are good entertainment
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Old 05-27-2010, 06:33 AM   #35565
Colorado Col Rider
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Joined: May 2009
Location: Rocky Mountains
Oddometer: 195
Quote:
Originally Posted by ynotjp?
Colorado Col Rider, You do know that you will have to write a report on both of the rides, DR 650 and the Road Bike, and post it here, and pictures are always nice.
I will do my best, if I can pull this off I'll need pictures or no one I know will believe me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flatulator
I would say ... that some people can ... and some pople CANT .. do without a windshield ... and I didn't read that carefully (you got one? ) ... but that could "make or break" any 'enjoyment' of the trip.
I don't have a windscreen, and I didn't even think of that as a factor, but great point....errrr, now how many miles a day can I expect before I've been blown to pieces. I'd love to see posts of the communities longer day rides so I had an idea.
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