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Old 06-13-2010, 09:28 PM   #36166
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapp22
nice, Grift. looks very similar to my rig, which reminds me to ask a question of the collective here.
how did you lash those sidebags to the racks? I found on mine [i have the swept version of the same sidebags] the attach points were all wrong. i am too cheap to spend money on a sewing job so I had to just make do with velcro and nylon cords. its neither quick nor easy but at least its stable. but in a getoff the stuff would scatter to kingdom come.
any ideas?
You might have the Sport version of the Cortech bags. The attachment points are not well positioned on my touring Cortech bags either. I sewed in some loops and bungee to the Happy Trails racks. (you can't see them in the pic but they are there) In a crash, nothing is really going to hold for sure. They come on and off the bike pretty quick.

I've had a few minor get offs (on dirt) and the bags actually stayed put.

You just have to sit there and figure the best way to keep them secure. But very few bags really are 100% secure in a crash. I wouldn't even try.

In Baja I had those same bags on my XR250 (now sold) and the Cortechs got into the rear tire. (bad Mickey Mouse mounting system I set up) Tore them up pretty good. Took them to a shoe repair guy in La Paz and for about $5 he totally rebuilt the torn up sections.

I have two other sets of soft bags, to me they are all expendable. On rough trips they don't last ... except perhaps the new Wolfman ones. I find bags cheap all the time on Craig's list, like $50 or less.
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Old 06-13-2010, 09:37 PM   #36167
TrophyHunter
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Race Tech Emulators

This thread is invaluable when tackling a project.

Distech's install worked perfectly. Thx for that! http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...+dr650+rebuild Read his thread first as mine is just some personalized additions to Distech's outstanding post.

Definitely follow his advice on the homebuilt tool measuring 30mm. I took a caliper and wandered to several stores and came home with the 28.?mm and it turned in the tube. Find a good hardware store and get the right one to start. I tightened the bundle but it turned during heavy hammering (to get the allen head loose). I ended up drilling at a 45 degree into the nut, thru the bolt & inserting a screw in the hole to "pin" the two together.

Here's the stock spacer, spring & bottom washer with inside tube dropped down.


Frontless DR


Measuring the compression relief holes, 20mm center to center.


Build a fluid measuring device that suits you. I'm pretty sure I'm a decendent from the Murphy clan so I built one that wouldn't allow me to drop it in while measuring. It also hung in the center of the tube and was easy to see when it contacted the fluid.



After pouring the recommended 14 ounces of fluid in and cycling the fork to get air out of it (easier with the emulator out), I tried dropping the unit in the tube. It got crossed up so I hung it from a magnetic tool and lowered it into the drink.


Use the spring to hold the emulator in place and pull the magnet off of it.


If you have a mechanical tool grabber, it's probably easier. I didn't.

Get the emulator to seat in the tube, remove the spring and complete the fluid pour.

In cutting my new spacer, the instructions said to draw a line all the way around to keep the cut even. This was my way of doing that. Set the caliper and work your way around the tube.


Cut, debur & final surface on my $2 Home Depot glass with 320 grit.


Got this cool (at least I think it is) tool from Motion Pro http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0412
It's blue, anodized aluminum & I need it.



It worked as advertised and made the fork alignment "bounceless" for a no-binding result.

Got the forkskins installed, lubed everything and torqued everything according to the manual. Black fork boots on the way to Yokomo.



It was sure nice getting the "solution kit" from Procycle as everything I needed was included. Keep in mind I got heavier springs which are shorter than the stock ones so I set the (now too short) stock spacers aside & used the provided (kit) spacer material. My son-in-law did emulators also but with the stock springs. He cut the stock spacer (I'd recommend just getting some PVC ) which was time consuming.
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TrophyHunter screwed with this post 06-13-2010 at 10:19 PM
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Old 06-13-2010, 09:46 PM   #36168
Adv Grifter
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[quote=D-Fuzz] The trip will be 2 weeks

Man, you guys will have NO time to explore. IMO, too many miles stuffed into to short a time.

Mostly camping. We plan to stay in the dorms in Fairbanks and one of the motels in Deadhorse, other than that it will be camping.

Cool. Setting up and tearing down always take time, but since its mid Summer up there you'll have daylight till Midnight.

I was going to bring a set of front & rear tires to swap, but am maybe re-thinking that a bit. Maybe a rear tire will be sufficient.

This is what I would do: Run a TKC80 up front. It will make the whole trip and be a God send on gravel, mud and any dirt roads. Better than the Kenda. I've used all kinds of 50/50's, the TKC or T63 Michelin are better and L A S T. DO bring a spare rear or send one ahead, just to cover yourself or one of your buddies. You can always mail it back if not needed.

I have tubes (front & rear), patch kit, tools, tire irons, etc. to be able to make repairs along the road.

Get together with your riding buddies and plan to use common tools, this saves weight.

I have Kenda 270s which are supposed to be a 50/50 tire. I normally ride gravel with Michelin Anakees and am comfortable with them. Living in the prairies, you have no choice but to ride lots of gravel.

This is good. 270's are OK but can be a bit squirreling on highway for some riders. But many swear by them, mostly KLR guys. I'd use a Knobbie. More drive getting through mud,sand or deep gravel patches, which will keep you upright and going straight. 50/50 tires don't bite well. More bite in deep gravel, and much better stopping ability on anything steep.

Suerte Amigos

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Old 06-13-2010, 09:59 PM   #36169
Ralph64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
The trip will be 2 weeks

Man, you guys will have NO time to explore. IMO, too many miles stuffed into to short a time.
I agree. This distance I would spread over 3 weeks otherwise 8-9 hours/day average for two weeks. Too much to see anything except highway, fuel stops and camping grounds.
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Old 06-13-2010, 10:30 PM   #36170
eakins
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i understand the concept of that fork aligner, but please explain some more how you adjust on the dr forks that are not aligned.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter
This thread is invaluable when tackling a project.

Distech's install worked perfectly. Thx for that! http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...+dr650+rebuild Read his thread first as mine is just some personalized additions to Distech's outstanding post.

Definitely follow his advice on the homebuilt tool measuring 30mm. I took a caliper and wandered to several stores and came home with the 28.?mm and it turned in the tube. Find a good hardware store and get the right one to start. I tightened the bundle but it turned during heavy hammering (to get the allen head loose). I ended up drilling at a 45 degree into the nut, thru the bolt & inserting a screw in the hole to "pin" the two together.

Here's the stock spacer, spring & bottom washer with inside tube dropped down.


Frontless DR


Measuring the compression relief holes, 20mm center to center.


Build a fluid measuring device that suits you. I'm pretty sure I'm a decendent from the Murphy clan so I built one that wouldn't allow me to drop it in while measuring. It also hung in the center of the tube and was easy to see when it contacted the fluid.



After pouring the recommended 14 ounces of fluid in and cycling the fork to get air out of it (easier with the emulator out), I tried dropping the unit in the tube. It got crossed up so I hung it from a magnetic tool and lowered it into the drink.


Use the spring to hold the emulator in place and pull the magnet off of it.


If you have a mechanical tool grabber, it's probably easier. I didn't.

Get the emulator to seat in the tube, remove the spring and complete the fluid pour.

In cutting my new spacer, the instructions said to draw a line all the way around to keep the cut even. This was my way of doing that. Set the caliper and work your way around the tube.


Cut, debur & final surface on my $2 Home Depot glass with 320 grit.


Got this cool (at least I think it is) tool from Motion Pro http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0412
It's blue, anodized aluminum & I need it.



It worked as advertised and made the fork alignment "bounceless" for a no-binding result.

Got the forkskins installed, lubed everything and torqued everything according to the manual. Black fork boots on the way to Yokomo.



It was sure nice getting the "solution kit" from Procycle as everything I needed was included. Keep in mind I got heavier springs which are shorter than the stock ones so I set the (now too short) stock spacers aside & used the provided (kit) spacer material. My son-in-law did emulators also but with the stock springs. He cut the stock spacer (I'd recommend just getting some PVC ) which was time consuming.
__________________
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Alaska
NM map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
Butler Maps website:
http://www.butlermaps.com
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Old 06-13-2010, 10:49 PM   #36171
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins
i understand the concept of that fork aligner, but please explain some more how you adjust on the dr forks that are not aligned.
When you do up the 4 pinch-bolts on the fork leg lower you can move the leg in or out quite a bit.
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Old 06-13-2010, 11:48 PM   #36172
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d-fuzz, are you going to make a report?
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Old 06-14-2010, 04:39 AM   #36173
TrophyHunter
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Fork Alignment

Bill - NordieBoy is right, there can be a lot of movement at the pinch bolts. If you're referring to the different diameter tubes ( inner/outer ), the V in the tool accounts for that.

The description on the tool link is helpful but basically the forks are very fixed at the base of the triple clamp so set the distance there using by loosening the screws, finding the fit & tighten it up. It makes a defiinite rocking motion on the tubes if it's not aligned properly. The cut on the V allows the transfer to the larger outer tube with the same result.

I pulled the bottom of the forks in and snugged the pinch bolts just for a test...definite rocking on the tool. I was right there with ya when I looked at it....but it works very well.
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Old 06-14-2010, 04:57 AM   #36174
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by web037
After only 8 months and 4000 miles the choke cable on my 2009 DR bound up resulting in a kinked cable and a temporarily unusable bike. So to turn this sadness into an opportunity I started looking around for other options. I like having the choke up on the handle bars but not at the expense of reliability. Here is what I found so far.

Stock cable replacement about $32

ProCycle plunger about $14 http://www.procycle.us/images/bikepa...etor_choke.jpg

Kientech plunger about $19 http://www.kientech.com/DR650HandChokeConv.htm

ProCycle remote choke about $32 http://www.procycle.us/images/bikepa...e_bst_inst.jpg

So what options have you all tried and how do you like them? I am gonna order something on Monday, can't stand having my 650 down, gonna have to ride my wife's DR200 for a few days
I have the Kientech option. No trouble. The cable was a problem on my stock set up so it's gone now. You only use the choke once a day, so it really is bad having it on the carb.
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Old 06-14-2010, 06:27 AM   #36175
basketcase
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Quote:
Originally Posted by web037
After only 8 months and 4000 miles the choke cable on my 2009 DR bound up resulting in a kinked cable and a temporarily unusable bike. So to turn this sadness into an opportunity I started looking around for other options. I like having the choke up on the handle bars but not at the expense of reliability. Here is what I found so far.

Stock cable replacement about $32

ProCycle plunger about $14

Kientech plunger about $19

ProCycle remote choke about $32

So what options have you all tried and how do you like them? I am gonna order something on Monday, can't stand having my 650 down, gonna have to ride my wife's DR200 for a few days
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket
I have the Kientech option. No trouble. The cable was a problem on my stock set up so it's gone now. You only use the choke once a day, so it really is bad having it on the carb.
I also have the Kientech pull knob type.

My 1st start of the morning warm up ritual is to start the bike and then do my final suit-up chores. So I can lean over and see the knob to pull it rather than sit on the bike feeling around -- and with my left hand, to boot.

Then by the time I have finished zipping up, and putting on my helmet, glasses, and gloves the bike is warm enough to kill the choke. After that, for the rest of the day I can hop on the bike and just touch the button and go.

Rather than remove the hand-grip to get to the OEM choke lever and cable I simply wrapped the end of the cable with duct tape and zip-tied it to the frame where it would not interfere with anything. When the winter time gets here again I may juimp the hoops of removing the grip and actually removing the lever. In the meanwhile, the carb does not know the difference and the neutered choke cable has not uttered a complaint...
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Old 06-14-2010, 09:22 AM   #36176
eakins
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i get the v shape (for different tubes) and width adjust, that obvious.

maybe i'm having a blonde moment...
but the dr gets the wheel axel bolt threaded through to the left leg and torqued properly. then the clamp plate (on the right leg) and 4 bolts hold the that shaft/wheel in place, correct?

so now are you saying there is wiggle room to move that lower mount spot so it is closer to the wheel (thus bringing in the lower legs) or away from the wheel (thus moving the lower legs apart)? what about proper side preload against the speedo unit (& thus wheel & bearing)???

can you move the lower leg out (if needed to align) and leave a gap between the lower leg & the speedo??? that makes zero sense from a structural/strength sense OR are you talking about twisting the lower legs for alignment? i thought the theory behind cycling the forks before torquing the 4 lower pinch bolts, enable the the shape of the lower fork assy to sit properly on the axel bolt.

am i just missing that the axel does all the proper bearing preload when torqued down and also hold the speedo in place??? and the right side clamp is just there to hold the leg in place and can be clamped in various spots along the axel???



Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter
Bill - NordieBoy is right, there can be a lot of movement at the pinch bolts. If you're referring to the different diameter tubes ( inner/outer ), the V in the tool accounts for that.

The description on the tool link is helpful but basically the forks are very fixed at the base of the triple clamp so set the distance there using by loosening the screws, finding the fit & tighten it up. It makes a defiinite rocking motion on the tubes if it's not aligned properly. The cut on the V allows the transfer to the larger outer tube with the same result.

I pulled the bottom of the forks in and snugged the pinch bolts just for a test...definite rocking on the tool. I was right there with ya when I looked at it....but it works very well.
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Alaska
NM map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
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Old 06-14-2010, 09:43 AM   #36177
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins
the dr gets the wheel axel bolt threaded through to the left leg and torqued properly. then the clamp plate (on the right leg) and 4 bolts hold the that shaft/wheel in place, correct?
Correct. After you tighten the axle, you should agressively bounce the front suspension up and down so the "loose" leg finds it's proper alignment on the axle. Then tighten the 4 studs. The measuring tool allows you to move it by hand while on a stand to measure at the top and bottom to see that everything is straight, then tighten the 4 nuts.

I'll keep doing it the old way.
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Old 06-14-2010, 10:50 AM   #36178
FloridaSteve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by web037
After only 8 months and 4000 miles the choke cable on my 2009 DR bound up resulting in a kinked cable and a temporarily unusable bike. So to turn this sadness into an opportunity I started looking around for other options. I like having the choke up on the handle bars but not at the expense of reliability. Here is what I found so far.

Stock cable replacement about $32

ProCycle plunger about $14 http://www.procycle.us/images/bikepa...etor_choke.jpg

Kientech plunger about $19 http://www.kientech.com/DR650HandChokeConv.htm

ProCycle remote choke about $32 http://www.procycle.us/images/bikepa...e_bst_inst.jpg

So what options have you all tried and how do you like them? I am gonna order something on Monday, can't stand having my 650 down, gonna have to ride my wife's DR200 for a few days
Procycle remote is the way to go if you ever plan on an oversized tank. Access to a plunger/carb becomes difficult with the large tank hanging over. I use it and it's perfect.
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Old 06-14-2010, 10:51 AM   #36179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph64
I agree. This distance I would spread over 3 weeks otherwise 8-9 hours/day average for two weeks. Too much to see anything except highway, fuel stops and camping grounds.
I agree but the demands of my job only allow for 2 weeks off. The first 3 days and the last 3 days will be long covering about 60% of the entire trip. Once we get to the Yukon, we will only be doing about 400-500km / day, so there will be a bit more time to smell the flowers. I have been through Northern Alberta/BC before so there isn't much new there for me to see. As long as the weather is good, I think it will be fine. If it starts raining though, I will just have to cut things a bit short in order to keep it to 2 weeks.
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Old 06-14-2010, 11:05 AM   #36180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Fuzz
I agree but the demands of my job only allow for 2 weeks off. The first 3 days and the last 3 days will be long covering about 60% of the entire trip. Once we get to the Yukon, we will only be doing about 400-500km / day, so there will be a bit more time to smell the flowers. I have been through Northern Alberta/BC before so there isn't much new there for me to see. As long as the weather is good, I think it will be fine. If it starts raining though, I will just have to cut things a bit short in order to keep it to 2 weeks.
Finally someone that has a job on this forum!!! It seems like almost everyone is taking off for months at a time and it can feel pretty sucky when I can't even take off for 4 hours due to family and work demands.
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