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Old 06-13-2010, 05:27 PM   #36181
TrophyHunter
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Moab - great shots Cemory! Still haven't made it there. I'd like to do 5 MOH....not on the DR tho.

I've done areas close but never Moab proper. Outstanding!
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Old 06-13-2010, 05:48 PM   #36182
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Awesome pics!!!
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Old 06-13-2010, 05:51 PM   #36183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alonzo
Steve -- Your bike looks real nice. I like the black side panels with the blue. Did you paint them or are they factory black panels. If painted, what paint?
-- alonzo
Thanks Much. They came with the bike and I suspect that they are replacements as the bike is a bit of a mutt. It's a 2000 that's been around the block a bit. I know that you can buy them new at Procycle. http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html and they are also available brand new from Suzuki on sites like www.Bikebandit.com

On the other hand if you want to paint yours you can use a rattlecan paint specifically made for plastic. I think Duplicolor makes a good one but be sure if you do, there's no turning back once you paint plastic. Good Luck
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Old 06-13-2010, 05:55 PM   #36184
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I just went and looked at the cap of my IMS tank and it's the tophat design and it's lost some pieces.

If I call IMS will they send me a new cap?
Thanks!
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Old 06-13-2010, 06:00 PM   #36185
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About the degraded IMS gas cap gaskets. Mine went to crap like most of them tend to do and during the time I was using my IMS tank I replaced it with a nice (made for modern gas) O-ring gasket that is made for an Kawasaki and fit the cap and sealed it perfectly.

Go HERE for the Kawasaki Triple Fuel Cap Gasket that they show. It's $12 and I'll vouch for the vendor as I've done a LOT of business with him. The gasket works great and did not leak a drop. Make sure you have a good vent tube hose routed down the triple tree collar and you're all set. hope this helps someone out.

Full link to their page. http://www.hvccycle.com/vintagekaw.htm

Sorry links fixed now
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Old 06-13-2010, 07:11 PM   #36186
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RE, the OEM 15-t counter-sprocket --

Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase
Which side "faces out" when putting it on the bike?

One side has a raised bevel on it and the other is flat. I've had it off for a while (running a 14-t) and unfortunately don't recall which side of the 15-t was facing out when I removed it.

Thanks in advance,
Rick
Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy
Flat side out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Northyork
Raised bevel faces inwards
Thank you!
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Old 06-13-2010, 09:28 PM   #36187
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapp22
nice, Grift. looks very similar to my rig, which reminds me to ask a question of the collective here.
how did you lash those sidebags to the racks? I found on mine [i have the swept version of the same sidebags] the attach points were all wrong. i am too cheap to spend money on a sewing job so I had to just make do with velcro and nylon cords. its neither quick nor easy but at least its stable. but in a getoff the stuff would scatter to kingdom come.
any ideas?
You might have the Sport version of the Cortech bags. The attachment points are not well positioned on my touring Cortech bags either. I sewed in some loops and bungee to the Happy Trails racks. (you can't see them in the pic but they are there) In a crash, nothing is really going to hold for sure. They come on and off the bike pretty quick.

I've had a few minor get offs (on dirt) and the bags actually stayed put.

You just have to sit there and figure the best way to keep them secure. But very few bags really are 100% secure in a crash. I wouldn't even try.

In Baja I had those same bags on my XR250 (now sold) and the Cortechs got into the rear tire. (bad Mickey Mouse mounting system I set up) Tore them up pretty good. Took them to a shoe repair guy in La Paz and for about $5 he totally rebuilt the torn up sections.

I have two other sets of soft bags, to me they are all expendable. On rough trips they don't last ... except perhaps the new Wolfman ones. I find bags cheap all the time on Craig's list, like $50 or less.
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Old 06-13-2010, 09:37 PM   #36188
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Race Tech Emulators

This thread is invaluable when tackling a project.

Distech's install worked perfectly. Thx for that! http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...+dr650+rebuild Read his thread first as mine is just some personalized additions to Distech's outstanding post.

Definitely follow his advice on the homebuilt tool measuring 30mm. I took a caliper and wandered to several stores and came home with the 28.?mm and it turned in the tube. Find a good hardware store and get the right one to start. I tightened the bundle but it turned during heavy hammering (to get the allen head loose). I ended up drilling at a 45 degree into the nut, thru the bolt & inserting a screw in the hole to "pin" the two together.

Here's the stock spacer, spring & bottom washer with inside tube dropped down.


Frontless DR


Measuring the compression relief holes, 20mm center to center.


Build a fluid measuring device that suits you. I'm pretty sure I'm a decendent from the Murphy clan so I built one that wouldn't allow me to drop it in while measuring. It also hung in the center of the tube and was easy to see when it contacted the fluid.



After pouring the recommended 14 ounces of fluid in and cycling the fork to get air out of it (easier with the emulator out), I tried dropping the unit in the tube. It got crossed up so I hung it from a magnetic tool and lowered it into the drink.


Use the spring to hold the emulator in place and pull the magnet off of it.


If you have a mechanical tool grabber, it's probably easier. I didn't.

Get the emulator to seat in the tube, remove the spring and complete the fluid pour.

In cutting my new spacer, the instructions said to draw a line all the way around to keep the cut even. This was my way of doing that. Set the caliper and work your way around the tube.


Cut, debur & final surface on my $2 Home Depot glass with 320 grit.


Got this cool (at least I think it is) tool from Motion Pro http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0412
It's blue, anodized aluminum & I need it.



It worked as advertised and made the fork alignment "bounceless" for a no-binding result.

Got the forkskins installed, lubed everything and torqued everything according to the manual. Black fork boots on the way to Yokomo.



It was sure nice getting the "solution kit" from Procycle as everything I needed was included. Keep in mind I got heavier springs which are shorter than the stock ones so I set the (now too short) stock spacers aside & used the provided (kit) spacer material. My son-in-law did emulators also but with the stock springs. He cut the stock spacer (I'd recommend just getting some PVC ) which was time consuming.
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"It's a small amount of gas, but it represents a long walk" My Dad...

TrophyHunter screwed with this post 06-13-2010 at 10:19 PM
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Old 06-13-2010, 09:46 PM   #36189
Adv Grifter
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[quote=D-Fuzz] The trip will be 2 weeks

Man, you guys will have NO time to explore. IMO, too many miles stuffed into to short a time.

Mostly camping. We plan to stay in the dorms in Fairbanks and one of the motels in Deadhorse, other than that it will be camping.

Cool. Setting up and tearing down always take time, but since its mid Summer up there you'll have daylight till Midnight.

I was going to bring a set of front & rear tires to swap, but am maybe re-thinking that a bit. Maybe a rear tire will be sufficient.

This is what I would do: Run a TKC80 up front. It will make the whole trip and be a God send on gravel, mud and any dirt roads. Better than the Kenda. I've used all kinds of 50/50's, the TKC or T63 Michelin are better and L A S T. DO bring a spare rear or send one ahead, just to cover yourself or one of your buddies. You can always mail it back if not needed.

I have tubes (front & rear), patch kit, tools, tire irons, etc. to be able to make repairs along the road.

Get together with your riding buddies and plan to use common tools, this saves weight.

I have Kenda 270s which are supposed to be a 50/50 tire. I normally ride gravel with Michelin Anakees and am comfortable with them. Living in the prairies, you have no choice but to ride lots of gravel.

This is good. 270's are OK but can be a bit squirreling on highway for some riders. But many swear by them, mostly KLR guys. I'd use a Knobbie. More drive getting through mud,sand or deep gravel patches, which will keep you upright and going straight. 50/50 tires don't bite well. More bite in deep gravel, and much better stopping ability on anything steep.

Suerte Amigos

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Old 06-13-2010, 09:59 PM   #36190
Ralph64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
The trip will be 2 weeks

Man, you guys will have NO time to explore. IMO, too many miles stuffed into to short a time.
I agree. This distance I would spread over 3 weeks otherwise 8-9 hours/day average for two weeks. Too much to see anything except highway, fuel stops and camping grounds.
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Old 06-13-2010, 10:30 PM   #36191
eakins
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i understand the concept of that fork aligner, but please explain some more how you adjust on the dr forks that are not aligned.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter
This thread is invaluable when tackling a project.

Distech's install worked perfectly. Thx for that! http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...+dr650+rebuild Read his thread first as mine is just some personalized additions to Distech's outstanding post.

Definitely follow his advice on the homebuilt tool measuring 30mm. I took a caliper and wandered to several stores and came home with the 28.?mm and it turned in the tube. Find a good hardware store and get the right one to start. I tightened the bundle but it turned during heavy hammering (to get the allen head loose). I ended up drilling at a 45 degree into the nut, thru the bolt & inserting a screw in the hole to "pin" the two together.

Here's the stock spacer, spring & bottom washer with inside tube dropped down.


Frontless DR


Measuring the compression relief holes, 20mm center to center.


Build a fluid measuring device that suits you. I'm pretty sure I'm a decendent from the Murphy clan so I built one that wouldn't allow me to drop it in while measuring. It also hung in the center of the tube and was easy to see when it contacted the fluid.



After pouring the recommended 14 ounces of fluid in and cycling the fork to get air out of it (easier with the emulator out), I tried dropping the unit in the tube. It got crossed up so I hung it from a magnetic tool and lowered it into the drink.


Use the spring to hold the emulator in place and pull the magnet off of it.


If you have a mechanical tool grabber, it's probably easier. I didn't.

Get the emulator to seat in the tube, remove the spring and complete the fluid pour.

In cutting my new spacer, the instructions said to draw a line all the way around to keep the cut even. This was my way of doing that. Set the caliper and work your way around the tube.


Cut, debur & final surface on my $2 Home Depot glass with 320 grit.


Got this cool (at least I think it is) tool from Motion Pro http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0412
It's blue, anodized aluminum & I need it.



It worked as advertised and made the fork alignment "bounceless" for a no-binding result.

Got the forkskins installed, lubed everything and torqued everything according to the manual. Black fork boots on the way to Yokomo.



It was sure nice getting the "solution kit" from Procycle as everything I needed was included. Keep in mind I got heavier springs which are shorter than the stock ones so I set the (now too short) stock spacers aside & used the provided (kit) spacer material. My son-in-law did emulators also but with the stock springs. He cut the stock spacer (I'd recommend just getting some PVC ) which was time consuming.
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Old 06-13-2010, 10:49 PM   #36192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins
i understand the concept of that fork aligner, but please explain some more how you adjust on the dr forks that are not aligned.
When you do up the 4 pinch-bolts on the fork leg lower you can move the leg in or out quite a bit.
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Old 06-13-2010, 11:48 PM   #36193
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d-fuzz, are you going to make a report?
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Old 06-14-2010, 04:39 AM   #36194
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Fork Alignment

Bill - NordieBoy is right, there can be a lot of movement at the pinch bolts. If you're referring to the different diameter tubes ( inner/outer ), the V in the tool accounts for that.

The description on the tool link is helpful but basically the forks are very fixed at the base of the triple clamp so set the distance there using by loosening the screws, finding the fit & tighten it up. It makes a defiinite rocking motion on the tubes if it's not aligned properly. The cut on the V allows the transfer to the larger outer tube with the same result.

I pulled the bottom of the forks in and snugged the pinch bolts just for a test...definite rocking on the tool. I was right there with ya when I looked at it....but it works very well.
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Old 06-14-2010, 04:57 AM   #36195
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by web037
After only 8 months and 4000 miles the choke cable on my 2009 DR bound up resulting in a kinked cable and a temporarily unusable bike. So to turn this sadness into an opportunity I started looking around for other options. I like having the choke up on the handle bars but not at the expense of reliability. Here is what I found so far.

Stock cable replacement about $32

ProCycle plunger about $14 http://www.procycle.us/images/bikepa...etor_choke.jpg

Kientech plunger about $19 http://www.kientech.com/DR650HandChokeConv.htm

ProCycle remote choke about $32 http://www.procycle.us/images/bikepa...e_bst_inst.jpg

So what options have you all tried and how do you like them? I am gonna order something on Monday, can't stand having my 650 down, gonna have to ride my wife's DR200 for a few days
I have the Kientech option. No trouble. The cable was a problem on my stock set up so it's gone now. You only use the choke once a day, so it really is bad having it on the carb.
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