DR650SE Index Topic #1- CONTROLS/INSTRUMENTATION

The topic for this thread is Controls & Instrumentation, and it covers a little ground. I'd like to hear what worked best for you DR650 fans out there. Or, if there's something to avoid. If you have part numbers and supplier info, please share that, too.
If the case has already been made about something in this catagory, please feel free to just put up a link to the relevant post(s). Please link to the posts, NOT THE ENTIRE THREAD, unless that thread is already limited to this topic . No need to limit your links to ADV, either.
OK, please share your success stories regarding:

- HANDLEBARS/RISERS
- FOOTPEGS/FOOTPEG LOWERING
- GRIPS/HEATED GRIPS
- THROTTLE TUBES
- LEVERS/PEDALS
- CABLES
- GAUGES/INSTRUMENTS

Thanks!

OK. I'll get the ball rolling. Here is what I have and works.

- HANDLEBARS/RISERS - Procycle risers on Renthal Jimmy Button bend Bars
- FOOTPEGS/FOOTPEG LOWERING - Am happy with my knees around my ears
- GRIPS/HEATED GRIPS - When out temps never get below 26 degrees C in Northern Australia ?
- THROTTLE TUBES - Procycle quick throttle -love it for response with carby setup correctly.
- LEVERS/PEDALS - standard (haven't broken or bent yet) because I also have barkbusters (handguards)
- CABLES - Original so far because I look after them.
- GAUGES/INSTRUMENTS - Trailtech vapor - Awesome bit of gear. temp guage is very handy in hot climate (especially on the trail). Tacho handy to monitor engine speeds and gearing ratios, 12/24 hour time- saves wearing a watch, dual trip meters, great looks and adds a bit of class to the bike.

Without any of these, the DR is already a great bike. These improvements have been party function and partly personalisation of the bike.

Here's a link to the DR650 specific Vapor Kit: http://www.trailtech.net/75-302.html


and a write up from DisTech on how to install some of the components: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8962655&postcount=143

i noticed the trailtech model shown uses a magnetic pickup on the front wheel. so mileage & speed accuracy is dependent on tire type/ size/ wear. is this correct?

- HANDLEBARS/RISERS:
I like my Pro Taper CR High Bend. But handlebar and Riser height is purely the riders choice. Make sure your position/bar height works while standing ... IF you want comfort/control off road. Stock steel bars are good but can bend in a crash. Pro Taper bars (Alu) absorb vibration better than stock. Bar end weights not needed.

A WORD ON ERGONOMICS:
Many riders do not set up their bars and levers for max comfort. Poorly set lever can cause numbness and even Carpal Tunnel syndrome. It is important to adjust levers so that wrists do not bend much ... but stay straight and relatively flat. Most riders have their levers set UP too high. This puts a bend in your wrist, especially when standing up off road. Not good.


- FOOTPEGS/FOOTPEG LOWERING:
Wide pegs are nice off road when standing. I have used the IMS pegs but am using stock on the DR. NOTE: Early DR pegs are narrower than later ones.

No comments on lowering pegs.

- GRIPS/HEATED GRIPS
I use Symtec heated Grips. About $35 at most vendors. They draw about 24 watts. Very nice!

- THROTTLE TUBES
I use Stock cables. Most know that the old throttle grip will NOT come off. Buy a new throttle tube if changing bars or doing Heated Grips. No other way.

- LEVERS/PEDALS
I always carry a spare set of Suzuki levers on my bike. I also use Bark Busters to help protect the levers, master cylinder and .... most important ... my hands! Without Bark Busters levers are easily broken ... even in a minor tip over.

Brake Pedal and Shifter protection:
I run a thin safety cable lanyard on my shifter and brake cable, from the lever tip to the frame. This is an old Enduro riders' trick. Easy to do, will save your shifter or rear brake lever from being torn off when riding off road. Cheap insurance, easy to rig up your self.

- CABLES
All stock. I only run Suzuki cables.

- GAUGES/INSTRUMENTS
No comments here.

from memory you enter the diametre to the tyre edge for each different wheel size, its all in the instructions anyway and you just recalibrate for when you use a different sized wheel. its easy.

- HANDLEBARS/RISERS
ProTaper Contour "Pastrana ATV", a high bend fat bar, with Protaper fat bar adaptors. I did have to slightly enlarge the stock rubber mounts to accommodate the large bolt on the protaper mounts. These bars came off my DRZ and have fallen over many, many time and are still in one piece.
- FOOTPEGS/FOOTPEG LOWERING
I had made some lowering brackets out of alum. but the did bend over time. So I got a spare set of stock pegs, cut off the peg, milled down the mount and welded them back on getting about 1.5 inch drop and slightly rearward.
These now sport the cheap IMS knock off pegs alailable on ebay for about 15 bucks.





- GRIPS/HEATED GRIPS
No heat yet. I now use Pro Grip 714 Dual Sport Grips and like them allot, but have used progrip pillow tops an like them as well
- THROTTLE TUBES
Just a motion pro replacement tube, as the stock grips are glued on with some sort of nuclear bomb proof glue and a new tube is easier than trying to get the old one off
- LEVERS/PEDALS
Stock
- CABLES
Stock
- GAUGES/INSTRUMENTS
Trailtech Vapor here as well, love it. This also spent a couple years on my DRZ before being moved over to the DR and is still holing up well through drops, rain, mud, etc. and still tickin.


Cheers, Todd

i have one of these.
http://www.turbocity.com/product_info.php?cPath=69_78&products_id=665
puts the light cluster to where i can see it.

i use protaper atv mid bars with stock cables.
much better when standing

- HANDLEBARS/RISERS .................Pro Taper Chad Reed bend oversize bar
- FOOTPEGS/FOOTPEG LOWERING...Lowered and moved rearwards
- GRIPS/HEATED GRIPS.................Pro Taper grips, very grippy
- THROTTLE TUBES......................Standard
- LEVERS/PEDALS.........................Cut and shut shortened to match rear movement of pegs
- CABLES....................................re routed to stop the hook ups behind the headlight
- GAUGES/INSTRUMENTS...............original speedo binned, Garmin GPS only

Barkbusters with the triple clamp mounting kit. You aren't trying hard enough until you crash and bend them, and the bars, and the levers.....

snowy,
the GPS doesnt need a magnetic or any pickup, correct?
no calibration either?

My 60CSx didn't require any of that.

+1 GPS is correct out of the box. The satelites are about 11,000 miles up, and can see me creep forward at a stoplight. Pretty fookin' cool.

Revised position instruments you can actually see.
RMZ 450 clutch and master cylinder.
Protaper Contour bars in stock rise.
Garmin Zumo 550 with Starcom Advance bluetooth.
Heads up L E D voltage monitor (LED in the centre of the fairing)







.

no it's not a bicycle wheel computer, but there is an elevation calibration technique.

i also use a 60csx w/ a ram mount & hard wire w/ touratech wiring kit.

I don't have one of these yet, but I think they're kinda cool, in an old-school way... An oil temperature gauge that replaces the oil cap. Image won't load, sorry.


http://www.getgeared.co.uk/MOTO-DETAIL_Motorcycle_Oil_Temperature_Gauge

2" Rox handlebar risers for ATV.
A bit high but were bought for anothe bike and transfered them.
If I was to redoit, I'd go with some straight 1 1/4 risers.
Much less money.
Installed using locktite on clamped surface.

http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/cart/showitems.cgi?subcat_id=256

Nothing.

I could have paid $50 for the GPS power adapter, but then needed a socket to plug it into.

Instead I got a mobile phone charger in the right voltage range and mW rating, I removed the insides, soldered on the old speedo light wires, soldered wires from the output to the brass terminals on the GPS (You can get the pin configurations off the interwebz) and then encased my little electronic power supply in an old relay case filled with epoxy adhesive.

So the GPS runs off the bikes power, has odometer, trip meter, max speed, average moving speed, current speed, track log, way points, compass and a back light for riding at night.

For $115. I think they're cheaper in the US.

If I'm riding in an unknown area I save waypoints off the maps for track junctions along my route, I have the GPS set to use the same map system as the military topos, which I used to teach Grunts how to read. I ride to the saved point, delete it and save the actual grid reference.

I can use the track log screen to follow a previous route, or to navigate between way points if I've erased the track log ( I do regularly as the memory fills up).

Riding on the road I use the screen with Trip, Odo, Max speed, av speed, current speed, and reset the trip meter each time I fuel. I also reset the max speed if the cops pull me over for random breath testing.

If I'm following someone else, I look at their map and get an idea of where we are going, then I watch my compass screen and make sure they don't take the wrong track and drive in the opposite direction for 20 mins.....KTMatt. It helps if you can ride fast enough to catch them, or they look in their mirrors once in a blue moon.

It made a cheap easy alternative to having a GPS and a speedo. I'm going to upgrade the GPS unit eventually to one that has a map data base, and the capability to connect to the laptop to download way points and trip data.

- HANDLEBARS/RISERS: ProTaper CR High Bends, no complaints.. Moose hand guards, no real complaints. They do work fine and they block cold air in the winter but, they don't fit as well as I would like. I will try some thing else if I need another pair of hand guards.

- FOOTPEGS/FOOTPEG LOWERING: Procycle lowerd foot pegs work great with my 34" inseam. I like the cast pegs they come with.

- GRIPS/HEATED GRIPS: Pro Grips superbike 690's open end style in black, nice soft rubber that holds up well and does not dig into your hands.. Symtec grip heaters with the round switch, I need to install them! Maybe this week.

- THROTTLE TUBE: Bone stock throttle tube, I carved mine loose from the stock grip.

- LEVERS/PEDALS: Stock brake lever, Moose shift lever, its a bit larger than stock where it hits your toes. Pretty much a stock replacement.

- CABLES: All Suzuki except for the TM-40 carb cables from ProCycle.

- GAUGES/INSTRUMENTS: Stock for now, I'll add a Vapor some day when I have the $$$ to burn. I don't really need a Vapor but, I do want one.

I add a CrampBuster to my bikes too, I've been putting them on for so long I don't feel right without a CrampBuster or a Throttle Rocker.

(Big thanks to Sandwash for finding this info, and passing it along )


For those looking at getting replacement handlebars, here's a handy reference...

Suzuki OEM Bend 32.04" 3.11" 2.32"

Factory 909 Bend Width Height Pull Back
CR Low Bend 31.60" 3.10" 2.30"
GP Bend 31.02" 3.66" 2.28"
National Bend 31.90" 3.70" 2.00"
Team Bend 31.60" 3.80" 2.10"
Team Tall Bend 31.60" 4.00" 2.30"

Fly Racing Aluma-Steel Bend Width Height Pull Back
ATV F Bend 29.76" 5.51" 4.05"
CR High Bend 31.34" 3.50" 2.12"
Kawasaki/Suzuki Bend 31.49" 2.79" 2.16"
Mini Bend 29.13" 3.77" 1.65"
Vintage Bend 33.07" 6.77" 3.54"
Yamaha Bend 31.61" 3.62" 2.24"

Longhorn Big Bars Bend Width Height Pull Back
CR Low Bend 32.00" 2.80" 2.68"
KX Bend 32.00" 2.80" 2.36"
Mini Bend 30.00" 3.94" 2.53"
RM Bend 32.00" 3.23" 2.87"
Universal Bend 32.00" 3.39" 2.76"
YZ Bend 32.00" 3.31" 2.95"

MSR Carbon Steel Bend Width Height Pull Back
ATV High Bend 31.50" 6.00" 3.94"
ATV Low Bend 31.00" 4.00" 3.62"
CR High Bend 31.63" 4.50" 3.80"
CR Low Bend 32.13" 3.63" 3.50"
CR Mid Bend 32.25" 4.25" 3.38"
KX High Bend 31.50" 4.25" 3.07"
KX Low Bend 31.88" 3.25" 3.38"
Mini High Bend 28.50" 4.60" 2.36"
Mini Low Bend 28.13" 3.71" 2.36"
RM High Bend 31.88" 3.75" 4.13"
YZ High Bend 32.25" 3.88" 3.75"
YZ Low Bend 31.50" 2.64" 2.76"

MSR Dominator Bend Width Height Pull Back
ATV High Bend 31.50" 6.00" 3.94"
CR High Bend 31.63" 4.50" 3.80"
CR Low Bend 32.13" 3.63" 3.50"
CR Mid Bend 32.25" 4.25" 3.38"
KTM High Bend 32.72" 5.24" 2.14"
KX High Bend 31.50" 4.25" 3.07"
KX Low Bend 31.88" 3.25" 3.38"
Mini High Bend 29.13" 5.88" 3.75"
Mini Low Bend 28.125" 3.71" 2.36"
RM High Bend 31.88" 3.75" 4.13"
YZ High Bend 32.25" 3.88" 3.75"

Moose Steel Bend Width Height Pull Back
ATV High Bend 32.50" 5.00" 3.20"

Pro-Taper Contour Bend Width Height Pull Back
ATV High Bend 31.50" 4.75" 2.17"
ATV Low Bend 31.50" 3.74" 2.37"
ATV Mid Bend 31.50" 4.25" 2.21"
CR High Bend 31.50" 3.74" 2.37"
CR Mid Bend 31.50" 3.23" 2.24"
Carmichael Bend 31.50" 3.00" 2.17"
Factory Suzuki/KTM Bend 31.50" 3.63" 1.85"
Henry/Reed Bend 31.50" 3.62" 2.24"
KX High Bend 31.50" 4.25" 2.21"
Mini High Bend 30.50" 3.74" 2.00"
Mini Low Bend 30.50" 2.80" 1.85"
Pastrana FMX Bend 30.50" 4.75" 2.17"
Pastrana MX/RM Low Bend 31.50" 2.91" 2.17"
Raptor Bend 30.30" 5.64" 3.41"
Universal Low Bend 31.50" 2.80" 2.17"
Windham MX/RM Mid Bend 31.50" 3.90" 2.13"
Woods High Bend 30.50" 3.74" 2.45"
Woods Low Bend 30.50" 2.80" 2.37"
YZ High Bend 31.50" 3.31" 2.00"

Pro-Taper EVO Bend Width Height Pull Back
Carmichael Bend 31.50" 3.0" 2.17"
CR High Bend 31.50" 3.74" 2.45"
Henry/Reed Bend 31.50" 3.62" 2.24"
RM Low Bend 31.50" 2.91" 2.17"
Windham/RM Mid Bend 31.50" 3.90" 2.13"
Woods High Bend 31.50" 3.74" 2.56"

Pro-Taper SE Bend Width Height Pull Back
ATV Low Bend 32.00" 5.50" 3.30"
ATV Mid Bend 32.00" 5.90" 3.00"
ATV High Bend 32.00" 6.30" 3.94"
Carmichael Bend 31.50" 3.00" 2.17"
CR Low Bend 31.50" 2.80" 2.68"
CR Mid Bend 31.50" 3.23" 2.36"
CR High Bend 31.50" 3.74" 2.45"
Factory Suzuki Bend 32.00" 3.63" 1.85"
Henry/Reed Bend 31.50" 3.70" 2.17"
Honda Mini Bend 28.75" 4.60" 1.97"
KTM 50 Bend 25.50" 3.15" 1.75"
KX Low Bend 31.50" 2.80" 2.36"
KX High Bend 32.00" 4.25" 3.07"
Kawasaki Mini Bend 28.75" 3.71" 1.97"
Raptor Bend 30.30" 5.63" 3.41"
RM Low Bend 32.00" 2.91" 2.17"
RM High Bend 31.50" 3.23" 2.87"
School Boy High Bend 28.10" 3.46" 1.77"
School Boy Low Bend 28.10" 3.07" 1.85"
Suzuki Mini Bend 28.75" 4.00" 1.97"
Windham/RM Mid Bend 32.00" 3.90" 2.13"
XR50 Bend 28.50" 6.75" 1.75"
YZ Low Bend 31.50" 2.64" 2.76"
YZ High Bend 31.50" 3.31" 2.95"
Yamaha Mini Bend 28.75" 3.90" 2.28"

Renthal Bar Bend Width Height Pull Back
ATV Honda/Suzuki/Kawaszki Bend 31.10" 5.59" 3.54"
ATV Race (781-01) 31.73" 5.90" 2.95"
Banshee Bend 30.51" 5.90" 3.93"
89-91 CR Bend 31.29" 3.74" 2.44"
CR Bend 31.30" 3.74" 2.44"
CR Mini Bend 29.13" 3.78" 2.68"
CRF 150R Bend 30.7" 5.43" 1.65"
Fourtrax Bend 30.31" 6.30" 3.86"
KTM Mini Racer Bend 25.28" 3.31" 1.73"
KX Bend 31.69" 3.66" 2.17"
KX Mini Bend 26.57" 3.54" 2.68"
KX/RM Mini Bend 28.82" 3.94" 2.48"
LT-R 450 Bend 31.65" 3.50" 3.23"
Mini Carmichael/Allessi Bend 29.13" 4.65" 1.65"
Mini Racer Bend 30.20" 6.06" 2.76"
Raptor 700 Bend 31.10" 5.55" 3.54"
Raptor Bend 30.90" 5.51" 3.94"
96-01 RM Bend 31.49" 2.79" 2.55"
RM Bend 32.05" 3.11" 2.32"
RM Mini Bend 28.94" 3.54" 2.72"
RMZ Bend 31.42" 2.91" 2.28"
Suzuki Quadracer Bend 30.31" 4.72" 3.62"
XR Bend 31.69" 3.43" 2.28"
04-05 YFZ 450 Bend 30.43" 4.33" 3.82"
06 YFZ 450 Bend 30.70" 4.17" 3.46"
YZ Mini Bend 28.74" 4.06" 2.32"
YZ/WR Bend 31.61" 3.62" 2.24"

Renthal Fat Bars Bend Width Height Pull Back
ATV Bend 31.29" 3.74" 2.44"
CR High 31.29" 3.74" 2.44"
Carmichael High Bend 31.57" 4.49" 2.13"
R. Carmichael 31.57" 3.89" 2.12"
J. McGrath 31.61" 3.62" 2.24"
KFX 450R Bend 30.26" 3.78" 2.83"
KTM 03 Bend 31.81" 3.27" 1.40"
KTM 04 Bend 31.80" 3.74" 1.50"
Mini Bend 29.13" 4.65" 1.65"
Universal Low 31.41" 3.15" 2.24"

Renthal Rider Bar Bend Width Height Pull Back
Carmichael/Windham 31.57" 3.90" 2.13"
J. Button-High Bend 31.77" 4.33" 2.63"
McGrath Mini Racer Bend 29.13" 4.53" 2.09"
McGrath/Lusk/Stewart 31.61" 3.62" 2.24"

Renthal Twinwall Bend Width Height Pull Back
CR High Bend 31.29" 3.74" 2.44"
Jeff Emig Bend 31.69" 3.66" 2.16"
Jeremy McGrath Bend 31.69" 3.26" 2.16"
Kevin Windham Bend 31.61" 3.62" 2.24"
Ricky Carmichael Bend 31.57" 3.89" 2.12"
YZ Bend 31.92" 3.34" 1.41"

Spiegler LSL Bend Width Height Pull Back
BMW Bend 29.50" 2.38" 4.50"
Street Bend 32.00" 1.75" 3.50"
Street High Bend 33.50" 3.75" 3.50"
Superbike Bend 30.00" 2.75" 6.00"
Superbike High Bend 31.00" 3.50" 7.12"
Superbike Low Bend 29.00" 2.00" 5.50"
Sport Tourer Bend 26.75" 1.75" 4.38"

Tag T2 Bend Width Height Pull Back
CR Double High Bend 31.69" 4.53" 2.44"
CR High Bend 31.69" 3.43" 2.28"
CR Low Bend 31.30" 3.74" 2.44"
KTM Bend 31.69" 3.90" 2.56"
KX Bend 31.61" 3.35" 2.09"
RM High Bend 31.69" 3.66" 2.17"
YZ Bend 31.61" 3.62" 2.24"

Tag X5 Bend Width Height Pull Back
CR High Bend 31.30" 3.74" 2.44"
CR Low Bend 31.69" 3.42" 2.28"
Fourtrax Bend 31.10" 5.59" 3.35"
KX Bend 31.61" 3.35" 2.09"
RM High Bend 31.69" 3.66" 2.17"
Raptor Bend 30.51" 5.90" 3.35"
YZ Bend 31.61" 3.62" 2.24"
YZ Double High Bend 31.50" 4.50" 2.25"
Z400 Bend 31.10" 5.51" 2.95"

Trail Tech ATV X-Bar Bend Width Height Pull Back
Low Bend 31.10" 3.27" 2.44"
Mid Bend 31.10" 3.74" 2.44"
High Bend 31.10" 4.21" 2.44"

Tusk Chub Big Bar Bend Width Height Pull Back
ATV High Bend 31.5" 4.75" 2.41"
CR High Bend 31.5" 3.75" 2.45"
MX Race Bend 31.6" 2.8" 2.25"
YZ Bend 31.6" 3.5" 2.38"

Tusk T-10 Bend Width Height Pull Back
ATV Sport Model Bend 31.75" 6.25" 3.50"
CR High Bend 32.00" 3.75" 3.00"
CR Low Bend 32.00" 3.25" 3.50"
CR Mid Bend 32.00" 3.50" 2.50"
KX High Bend 32.25" 4.00" 3.00"
KX Low Bend 32.00" 3.50" 3.00"
Mini Hight Bend 29.13" 4.50" 2.75"
Raptor Bend 31.50" 6.25" 4.00"
YZ High Bend 32.00" 3.50" 3.00"

i ditched my stock mirror asap!

at first i used a L&R ken sean folding mirrors

then went over to neduro's double take mirror.
http://www.doubletakemirror.com/
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=571500
which i love. i only have one on the left side and it often stays folded tucked away behind my screen/above the instruments when i'm in the rough stuff. i'll open it up when on a group ride in the dirt so i can see behind me or the pavemement. for those who use your dr as a dirtbike it's easy to quickly remove the who thing. i have the ball in the normal left hand mirror spot but first i have this screwed in to help even more isolate mirror vibes. http://www.klr650.com/MrVibIso.htm and then the doubletake screwed into that. since i get additional height from this isolator i went with the short 1.75" arm vs the 3" arm

the kean seans did fold out of the way but not as tightly out of the way, as the double take plus the kean sean's need alot of readjusting (with a tricky system at that) to keep them from flopping down when in the up position. the double takes use the tried and true ram ball/arm system that looks down with a single lever. the only trick is you need to tighten it real good or the mirror will move (as the mirror ball is not rubber but some sort of polycarb/injected plastic). you just need to tighten it more than you would will a pure ram mount rubber ball to rubber ball system, but it does stay in place.