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Old 12-05-2010, 07:22 AM   #91
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ba_ View Post
I was looking at the VM2 with sprockets here:
http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/1071...gs-09-10-.html
Like I said, the VM2 is also a good chain and will last much longer than stock - and most importantly it won't break! I just don't enjoy maintaining or changing wear parts so I would rather spend an extra $30 to get the best.
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Old 12-05-2010, 07:24 AM   #92
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Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Like I said, the VM2 is also a good chain and will last much longer than stock - and most importantly it won't break! I just don't enjoy maintaining or changing wear parts so I would rather spend an extra $30 to get the best.
Since this is the stupid question thread, I'll now ask the stupid question. What's the difference between the two chains?
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Old 12-05-2010, 01:12 PM   #93
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What is the easiest way to remove the chain (assume I will throw the OEM one away)?
Ok back to this question.

It is an endless chain, correct? Don't you have to either a) remove the swingarm or b) break the chain in order to remove it?
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Old 12-05-2010, 01:20 PM   #94
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Since this is the stupid question thread, I'll now ask the stupid question. What's the difference between the two chains?
The ZVM-X is heavier duty. Thicker outer plates, longer pins, thicker rollers. About 15% higher wear rating IIRC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ba_ View Post
Ok back to this question.

It is an endless chain, correct? Don't you have to either a) remove the swingarm or b) break the chain in order to remove it?
Buy a chain breaker/riveter. On big heavy bikes with a decent amount of power a clip type link is not a good idea.
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LukasM screwed with this post 12-05-2010 at 01:45 PM
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Old 12-05-2010, 02:39 PM   #95
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Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
The ZVM-X is heavier duty. Thicker outer plates, longer pins, thicker rollers. About 15% higher wear rating IIRC.

Buy a chain breaker/riveter. On big heavy bikes with a decent amount of power a clip type link is not a good idea.
Thanks Lukas. I was planning on buying the Motion Pro breaker/riveter. I just couldn't get my head around that you could remove an endless chain without breaking and/or removing the swingarm.
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Old 12-05-2010, 03:35 PM   #96
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Thanks Lukas. I was planning on buying the Motion Pro breaker/riveter. I just couldn't get my head around that you could remove an endless chain without breaking and/or removing the swingarm.

If you're not going to use the old one again just cut it off, that's what I do with my old ones. When installing a new chain I use my rivet tool, master links should only be for emergencies.
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Old 12-08-2010, 06:52 AM   #97
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Guess we've run out of "Stupid" And so soon.....

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Old 12-08-2010, 10:08 AM   #98
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I'll bite...
Why would BMW attach the left side controls with a THROUGH bolt?
Why did they extend the license plate light out 2"?
Simple fix...

Cheers,
S.
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Old 12-11-2010, 11:56 PM   #99
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anyone notice a 'female' socket/connector between the air intake pots behind the engine?

can be seen from the left side of the bike. look between the gaps in the frame, somewhere slightly above the clutch cable.

is the socket supposed to have any sort of cover? it is hanging exposed to whatever dirt/particles that might get into it...

what and why is it like that? NORMAL?
(will try to get a picture asap)...
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Old 12-13-2010, 03:35 PM   #100
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I guess nobody knows....RediRakaD & Nat_han. I don't either.

But, here's my next Stupid question:

Anybody running a "Case Saver" over their counter sprocket? If so, which brand from where?

The only one I've found is listed at TT, but it doesn't show a picture of the inside...the "case saving" part.

This past weekend, I swapped out my 16 cs for a 15 cs. When I pulled the plastic cover off, it was like........ No protection whatsoever. This appears to be an extremely vulnerable area needing a decent case saver (in the event of a broken chain). And, I didn't find a thread regarding this matter.

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Old 12-15-2010, 03:17 AM   #101
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(the plug my index finger is pointing at)
this is the 'loose' or rather, a disconnected plug behind the engine that i was talking about. noticed it just recently after 2years...
viewed from the left side of the bike.

any ideas as to what this plug does?

my bike still fires up and moves...
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Old 12-15-2010, 04:19 AM   #102
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Eh? Grips

My stupid question is how does one change grips when they are heated? Mine are wearing out....and I would like to replace the stock grips with one's a little wider but how do I safely remove them when there are heated elements underneath?
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Old 12-15-2010, 07:37 AM   #103
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My stupid question is how does one change grips when they are heated? Mine are wearing out....and I would like to replace the stock grips with one's a little wider but how do I safely remove them when there are heated elements underneath?
Very carefully. I'm about to find out, as I have same problem. I'm going to slice the original hot-hand grips off with a razor blade and carefully peel it off the heating element. It should be doable, as the grips should not be glued to the heating element. And that has been confirmed in other Threads about this same issue....i.e. others have done this successfully.

Then, I'll probably tape each end of the heating grid with a little wrap of electrical tape...to help keep it secure when sliding on my new Progrips. I'll probably lube my new grips with some Windex to help it slide over....which will evaporate soon enough.

Gonna tackle it this weekend.

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Old 12-15-2010, 08:39 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soph9 View Post
My stupid question is how does one change grips when they are heated? Mine are wearing out....and I would like to replace the stock grips with one's a little wider but how do I safely remove them when there are heated elements underneath?
Have you heard of grip puppies?
http://www.casporttouring.com/cst/mo...s/GRIPPUP.html
They slide over your stock grips.
That may be a better/cheaper/faster solution.
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Old 12-15-2010, 08:50 AM   #105
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Questions

What is
  1. FF
  2. Troll (motorcycle sense)
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