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Old 12-26-2010, 03:53 PM   #61
blue leader
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safari tank fuel lines

I also modded the fuel inlet on the carb so all the Safari litres get into the carb via gravity. It seems it actually holds about 38 l.

bergdonk
i recently test rode a DR650 with a 30 L safari tank, during the test ride the bike died. there was still some fuel in the tank but it couldnt get to the carb. i managed to sloch the fuel to one side and turn off the other side fuel tap and got the bike to fire and back to the shop. i have since purchased the bike and would like to know how you altered the fuel lines so all the fuel gets to the carb. the carb fuel inlet pipe is a steel pipe that is bent up the way, did you remove this pipe? i am no sure how it is inserted into the carb looks to be pressed and not removeable. how did you mod this pipe?
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Old 12-26-2010, 05:19 PM   #62
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I also modded the fuel inlet on the carb so all the Safari litres get into the carb via gravity. It seems it actually holds about 38 l.

bergdonk
i recently test rode a DR650 with a 30 L safari tank, during the test ride the bike died. there was still some fuel in the tank but it couldnt get to the carb. i managed to sloch the fuel to one side and turn off the other side fuel tap and got the bike to fire and back to the shop. i have since purchased the bike and would like to know how you altered the fuel lines so all the fuel gets to the carb. the carb fuel inlet pipe is a steel pipe that is bent up the way, did you remove this pipe? i am no sure how it is inserted into the carb looks to be pressed and not removeable. how did you mod this pipe?
My research indicated that some had been able to carefully twist the pipe. I tried it, and also hit the carb body with a heat gun but it didn't budge and of course I didn't want to try tooo hard.

After some contemplation, I cut it off flush with the carb body. I then found in my collection of stuff a, I think, 1/8 BSP (or 1/4) fitting, 1/8 BSP to 3/8 hose. I didn't want to insert a tapered thread in there as there isn't much meat, so found a metric die that converted the 1/8 BSP (or 1/4) to a straight thread. Tapped out the bit of steel pipe left in the carb to match and screwed it in using Loctite 518 Master Gasket which I've used successfully in the past sealing fuel fittings. About 7,000 kms so far and no worries.

Get it wrong of course, and its a carb body

I believe that some DR riders have an extended breather hose off the cap and just blow in there to get fuel to the carb, but not my preference. Coming square straight out of the carb also meant that the hose and filter routing and connections is simpler.


The fitting I used was a straight one with the dimensions of the 90 deg one. I also shortened the barb length a bit too from memory.




Why carry all that fuel if all its good for is transferring to other bikes?

Steve
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Old 12-26-2010, 05:29 PM   #63
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PS
I also removed the filter in the intake at the carb, no choice really, and took the filters out of the fuel taps too, so only one readily accessible filter to deal with.

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Old 12-27-2010, 02:51 PM   #64
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Here is a pic of the adjustable steering stops and the top breather hose T vented from the carb. Note the diagonal cut and 4 way split.
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Old 12-30-2010, 11:19 PM   #65
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Nice bike mate.
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Old 12-30-2010, 11:43 PM   #66
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Nice bike mate.
Thanks.

Got a ride in yesterday, about 220 kms of mostly fire trails, with a few rocks and ruts, and gave the shock and forks a good test. Working really well, like others have said, real suspension transforms these bikes.

Snowy came along too and it was interesting comparing bikes. Its the great thing about these machines, Suzuki provides the canvas, and then we do the artwork to make them ours.

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Old 12-31-2010, 02:44 AM   #67
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Yep that's true.
I enjoyed working on mine till it went pop.
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Old 01-02-2011, 02:29 PM   #68
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....

I trusted LukasM http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=239519 on his advice re the steering head bearings, and it works so far, ie keep the Suzuki cups in the steering head and the KTM races will line up. the bearings are sized differently, ie 29 x 50.25 x 15 KTM vs 30 x 52 x 16 Suzi but it seems to work OK. The rollers are in full contact with the cup. A couple of shim washers to lift the top clamp to clear the damper post mount and we shall monitor durability. May end up fitting a sleeve to the KTM shaft and just use the Suzi bearings, dunno.
.....
I also got 2 sets of head bearings, just in case, but as yet unused from ebay for about $100
...
UPDATE
So after a couple of shakedown rides of about 60 kms each my brother and I met up with Snowy last Thursday and we did about 220 kms. Checking the bike over on Saturday after the ride revealed some play in the steering head bearings. The KTM bearings that came with the triples had a little corrosion on them so I knew their life would be limited, but I thought they would last longer. I pulled it apart after an attempted retensioning revealed that they were stuffed, there were large indentations in the cups of the bottom race.

With a new set of each bearings in the shed as noted above from the same manufacturer, I thought I'd just fit it together again with the new bearings. The new bearings however did not match, ie the KTM race did not match the Suzi cup, the taper being obviously different, perhaps 5 degrees. A close look at the damaged bearings identified that the the taper here was slightly different too, but not as much as the new ones, and perhaps only 1 or 2 degrees hence I didn't really notice it first up.

What to do? 2 options, sleeve the KTM shaft to take the 1 mm larger ID of the Suzi bearings, or pack the KTM cups with a sleeve to match the Suzi steering head, ie 50.25 needed to equal 52 OD. I decided on option 2.



I started out with a 50 mm long piece of 60 mm OD mild steel bar and made lots of swarf. This pic is just after parting off the first sleeve.



Close enough!



Fits perfectly, no adhesives or dimpling required, a bit lucky I guess, as I've never done anything like this before, so I challenged myself.

Just had to change a couple of shims under the top clamp when it all went back together and a short ride to bed them in and check tension and should be good to go.

My conclusion is that its best to have one bearing set or the other, and that different bearings may or, may not, match up. Mine didn't match.

So the one thing I wasn't too sure of has now hopefully been addressed.

Steve

EDIT I've changed this a bit, see post 206 by scrolling down here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...646076&page=14
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Old 01-02-2011, 08:46 PM   #69
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And the thing is that the hp is useless if it can't be used. The Berg's 63 hp makes for fun bragging rights, but would be useless if it wasn't so usable, predicatble, linear, and with no powerband to speak of, just goes from off idle. The DR is peakier, believe it or not.

But the DR is also smooth and has enough power to do what I want it to, the centre and Kimberly mid 2011 among other adventures. I just like fiddling, refining and improving. I've learnt over the years to mostly leave engine internals factory, and play with the outside for reliability, and cost effectiveness. The best money you can spend is actually on rider training followed by suspension.

Steve
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Old 01-02-2011, 11:53 PM   #70
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I did 60 kms this afternoon over some rocky terrain and no movement, so far, so good.

I've thought about this a bit more and it may actually be best to sleeve the shaft for the bottom bearing and use the Suzi bearing there, and use the KTM bearing on the top as per above. The advantage of this is that the Suzi bearing is slightly bigger, so presumably can handle more punishment, and the cup would be fully supported as per standard, whereas what I have done means the cup is not quite as fully supported in the headstock. Not much in it, but might just be a better solution.

I should do a 1000 kms or so over the next couple of days, time, and kms, will tell.

Steve

EDIT I've done this, see post 206 by scrolling down here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...646076&page=14
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Old 01-05-2011, 03:44 PM   #71
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Did 950 kms over the last 2 days, to Sydney and back via Wollongong. A few trails, but time contraints meant some highway kms too, and that is what the DR can do, as we know.

No play at all in the steering head, so I'll consider it fixed for the time being. Still might fit the Suzi bearing to the bottom though.

I also fitted a new drive side rear wheel bearing in Sydney when I detected some play after thinking a weave was developing. Was fine when I checked it before I left when lubing the chain. 18,000 kms on the original unsealed bearing. Took about 15 mins, and fortunately I had access to a bearing and some tools as I was visiting Frank at Biketek at the time to show him the shock and forks. Fixing it there and then gave me piece of mind for the trip home.

And the reason for going to the 'Gong was to visit KTMatt and collect the prototype bash plate that I had contributed to in a small way by providing my bike for checking pipe clearances with the FMF header. So the first live one on the road is mine, but the prototype. The next one will be a production item.

This was a Christmas present to me from my wife, who loves me



A little noisier than the B&B, but much tougher and protects the feet and pipe too, and has some useful storage space as well. No protrusions on the underside either, completely flat with the mounting system, an excellent design.

Matt assures me that the oil filter can be changed insitu, but the way its mounted means its only 4 bolts to remove, so choices...

Matt is doing some nice work
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ghlight=KTMatt

Steve
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Old 01-27-2011, 06:45 PM   #72
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I've got the FCR up and running and its all good. Smoother off the bottom with no identifiable bog or hesitation. Hard to say yet whether there is any more top end, but maybe the dyno would reveal something, or a longer straight, but its so much more responsive, with snap off the bottom that it never had before. Its also much quieter, the overrun popping is gone, and it just feels so much more refined now.

Thanks to MXRob for the jetting and work he has done in getting there. It certainly makes my life easier when someone else does the hard work.
http://mxrob.com/index.html

The carb I got on ebay was a new 39 and was identified as one from a KTM 450. It cost $250 US + $45 US delivery to Oz. Once it arrived, I checked it out and identified what jets it had in it. A few new jets, some from my collection, and a Flexjet fuel screw and Merge AP spring later and it was time to set it up.

The carb looked very much like the KTM ones MXRob refers to, and is set up for only an opening cable, so likely for a Polaris ATV. I adapted it to suit both stock cables.

Rob was able to supply me with a bell mouth adaptor for under $40 delivered and as I had no suitable billet, ordered one. I stuck it on with some Loctite 641 retaining compound. It was a bit loose, so I used an O ring to provide a temporary seat to hold it square on the carb body while it went off.

I ordered an adjustable PAJ like I have in my Bergs, but it doesn't fit the new carb, so for the moment I'm on the 70 PAJ that came with the carb rather than MXRobs preferred 100. Its amazing how many physically different carbs there are out there that are supposedly the same FCR. If Rob hadn't recommended the 100, I'd likely be going smaller, but right now the 70 feels great.

As I'm at 800 m I jetted a bit leaner than Robs suggestion initially, and have gone a bit leaner since test riding. I'll no doubt experiment further, but for now its very good.

I've never played with leak jets before, as my Bergs do not have a replaceable one, but I have experimented with adjustable AP strokes with some carb mods to make them adjustable, so another learning curve is in front of me as I work through this. The Berg carbs have a boss cast into them that makes this a simple enough mod, but the carb I got does not, so plan B, ie play with the leak jets.

FCR Jetting SD1 800m SD2 800m SD3 800m SD4 800m
Main 155 150 145 150
Needle EMP EMP EMP EMP
clip from Top 3 2 2 1
PAJ 70 70 70 70
Leak 35 35 35 35
Pilot 38 38 38 38
Fuel Screw 2 2.25 2.25 2.25
Float 9 9 9 9
Start 85 85 85 85

At SD4 I'm happy enough, and up to 700 kms to a tank.
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Old 01-27-2011, 06:52 PM   #73
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RHS view. Note the fabricated spacer/locking clip to get the cable lengths right.



A fuzzy view of how I fitted the cables. Not threaded like Rob suggests, and IMHO easier to work with as a result. A chunk of rubber seals the closing cable, which the carb was not originally intended to have.

There is a Merge AP spring under there too, as per Rob's recommendation.
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Old 01-27-2011, 06:58 PM   #74
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LHS. Note the Flexjet, much easier to access, and will not self adjust. I had to reroute the fuel line, not quite as neat as before, but a piece of hose looped around the frame cross member does the job.

I just cut off the TPS cables, as I have no need of them.

I also trimmed the inlet manifold at the top by removing the centring lug to allow the FCR to fit a bit more snugly.

The choke, aka starting enrichener, is readily accessable by feel from under the Safari tank so I removed the stock cable from the bike.

3-400 kms tomorrow to the coast and back to sanity check my jetting.

Steve
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Old 01-27-2011, 07:16 PM   #75
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While I was in the shed doing the carb it was also due for an oil change so it was also time to do the NSU screws. I found them both intact, but the lower one was not much more than finger tight, so some blue Loctite and reassembled.

I acquired a clutch cover gasket just in case, but the original came off clean so its been recycled. The clutch friction plates looked fine, and measured to spec. The steels were somewhat blue, so been hot in the past. Works OK, so until next time.

Like many others have said, check the NSU screws before its too late. NSU aka Neutral Switch Unit under the clutch.

Steve
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