Pablo's DR350 - Page 5

Pablo83 · 12-05-2010, 09:03 AM

The new arm is here. After some cleaning, it's looks great.

Pablo83 · 12-05-2010, 09:09 AM

So I decided to finish destroying the old one just because I'm curious. I drilled off the heads of the bolt holding the arm on. Then I smacked it with a hammer until the epoxy broke. This took a lot of force. Here's what it looks like underneath.

The round hole is the one I drilled, but as you can see, there was already a lightening hole molded into the inner part of the swingarm.

I took a wire wheel to the swingarm to remove all the epoxy. Once the epoxy is gone you can go through the aluminum fast so it's a touchy process. After I removed all the epoxy and placed the arm back to the center section, there was enough slop that the swingarm would need to be placed in a jig to re-weld it. Clearly, trying to weld the arms to the center section is a failure on many levels and I won't be trying it again.

I also learned that this bolt is not removable:

DisTech · 12-05-2010, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pablo83

So I decided to finish destroying the old one just because I'm curious. I drilled off the heads of the bolt holding the arm on. Then I smacked it with a hammer until the epoxy broke. This took a lot of force. Here's what it looks like underneath.

Great info!

frdbronco8 · 01-16-2011, 02:44 PM

Great info, thanks for figuring all of this out for us. Im looking forward to what you find out to decide what to do to mine.

Pablo83 · 01-19-2011, 02:55 PM

I finally had some time to get back to this project.

holes drilled in the new swingarm:

I finally got to use this fancy tool. I've had it for years and never used it.

I made the shape in cardboard first, then aluminum

And then I welded it all up. It was difficult welding the section around the brake bracket due to the difference in thickness of the pieces. The brake seems to mount just fine.

And here's the other side finished. I later had to grind down the welds around the two chain-stay hole to get it to mount.

I weighted the swingarm before and after. These modifications added 13oz.

a1fa · 01-19-2011, 03:18 PM

Why did you do that?

DisTech · 01-19-2011, 03:19 PM

Nice work! Hard to believe how much more stout that looks.

Pablo83 · 01-19-2011, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by a1fa

Why did you do that?

Start with post #2

a1fa · 01-19-2011, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pablo83

Start with post #2

Yes I am subscribed, but I am not seeing the point Pablo :(

Pablo83 · 01-19-2011, 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by a1fa

Yes I am subscribed, but I am not seeing the point Pablo :(

to reduce swingarm flex.

BikePilot · 01-19-2011, 04:04 PM

Years ago when people rode DR350s hard Scotts sold stiffer swingarms that were said to make a huge improvement. I think Thumper also sold plates to be welded in just like you've done that were also reputed to be quite an upgrade. The swingarm is very flexy, just grabing and twisting the ends with the wheel removed it is notably less stiff than my XR or CR. Not an issue for casual dual sporting, but it does make it difficult to keep the bike pointed straight when the pace quickens.

yondering · 01-20-2011, 09:14 AM

How did you weld it without overheating/destroying the epoxy in the joints? Or do you know if you damaged it? The damage to the epoxy probably won't be visible.

Pablo83 · 01-20-2011, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yondering

How did you weld it without overheating/destroying the epoxy in the joints? Or do you know if you damaged it? The damage to the epoxy probably won't be visible.

After my failed initial attempt to weld up the swingarm I ground out the welds, drilled out the bolts, and broke the epoxy so I could see how the swingarm was assembled. Despite all the welding I did on that swingarm, the epoxy was still incredibly hard to break, so I'm assuming it's still strong on this one.

Pablo83 · 01-20-2011, 09:49 AM

I'm removing the manual decomp from this bike. Where do I find a plug to cover the hole in the valve cover?

3uba296 · 01-20-2011, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pablo83

I'm removing the manual decomp from this bike. Where do I find a plug to cover the hole in the valve cover?

Three ways to go..

1: I did this om my -97 head with autodecomp that fore some reason had the manual decomp axle to. Since I had the cover loose I removed the seal, drilled the hole (with a stationary drill) to 10.5mm and tapped for M12 and loctited a M12 stop screw into it.

2: If you don´t have the stuff to do this, simply keep the seal and modify (cut of) the part of the shaft that engages with the cam shaft.

3: Remove the seal and plug the hole with a plug. Where to get it? Dunno. That´s why I did it my way.

12-05-2010, 09:03 AM	#61
Pablo83 ^OP Sleep, Wrench, Ride Joined: Aug 2008 Location: Woodland Park, CO Oddometer: 4,444	The new arm is here. After some cleaning, it's looks great. __________________ Bikes: DR350 \| GR650 Street Tracker \| NX650 Turbo \| Catamount Cycles Events: 2013 Monkey-Butt 500 \| BreckTrek 2013

12-05-2010, 09:09 AM	#62
Pablo83 ^OP Sleep, Wrench, Ride Joined: Aug 2008 Location: Woodland Park, CO Oddometer: 4,444	So I decided to finish destroying the old one just because I'm curious. I drilled off the heads of the bolt holding the arm on. Then I smacked it with a hammer until the epoxy broke. This took a lot of force. Here's what it looks like underneath. The round hole is the one I drilled, but as you can see, there was already a lightening hole molded into the inner part of the swingarm. I took a wire wheel to the swingarm to remove all the epoxy. Once the epoxy is gone you can go through the aluminum fast so it's a touchy process. After I removed all the epoxy and placed the arm back to the center section, there was enough slop that the swingarm would need to be placed in a jig to re-weld it. Clearly, trying to weld the arms to the center section is a failure on many levels and I won't be trying it again. I also learned that this bolt is not removable: __________________ Bikes: DR350 \| GR650 Street Tracker \| NX650 Turbo \| Catamount Cycles Events: 2013 Monkey-Butt 500 \| BreckTrek 2013

01-16-2011, 02:44 PM	#64
frdbronco8 Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2010 Location: South of Seattle Oddometer: 223	Great info, thanks for figuring all of this out for us. Im looking forward to what you find out to decide what to do to mine. __________________ 2005 Yamaha Roadstar 1700 2008 KTM 450 XC (540) ATV 2005 KTM 450 EXC

01-19-2011, 02:55 PM	#65
Pablo83 ^OP Sleep, Wrench, Ride Joined: Aug 2008 Location: Woodland Park, CO Oddometer: 4,444	I finally had some time to get back to this project. holes drilled in the new swingarm: I finally got to use this fancy tool. I've had it for years and never used it. I made the shape in cardboard first, then aluminum And then I welded it all up. It was difficult welding the section around the brake bracket due to the difference in thickness of the pieces. The brake seems to mount just fine. And here's the other side finished. I later had to grind down the welds around the two chain-stay hole to get it to mount. I weighted the swingarm before and after. These modifications added 13oz. __________________ Bikes: DR350 \| GR650 Street Tracker \| NX650 Turbo \| Catamount Cycles Events: 2013 Monkey-Butt 500 \| BreckTrek 2013 Pablo83 screwed with this post 01-19-2011 at 03:09 PM

01-19-2011, 03:19 PM	#67
DisTech Studly Adventurer Joined: Sep 2008 Location: Seattle Oddometer: 596	Nice work! Hard to believe how much more stout that looks. __________________ DisTech - Suzuki (1993 DR350S & 1994 DR350, 1996 DR650/DR790), BMW (1999 R1100GS)

01-19-2011, 03:18 PM	#66
a1fa Riding Nomad™ Joined: Nov 2006 Location: Arkansas Oddometer: 12,722	Why did you do that?

01-19-2011, 04:04 PM	#71
BikePilot Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2005 Location: Tampa Oddometer: 10,901	Years ago when people rode DR350s hard Scotts sold stiffer swingarms that were said to make a huge improvement. I think Thumper also sold plates to be welded in just like you've done that were also reputed to be quite an upgrade. The swingarm is very flexy, just grabing and twisting the ends with the wheel removed it is notably less stiff than my XR or CR. Not an issue for casual dual sporting, but it does make it difficult to keep the bike pointed straight when the pace quickens. __________________ '09 Buell XB12XT, TL1000S, H1F, M620, CR250R, DR250SE, XR650R, Cota 315R Summer 2009 Ride Report http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...1509c&t=507038 Summer 2008 RR. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=367703

01-20-2011, 09:14 AM	#72
yondering Beastly Adventurer Joined: Apr 2009 Location: NW Wa. state Oddometer: 1,072	How did you weld it without overheating/destroying the epoxy in the joints? Or do you know if you damaged it? The damage to the epoxy probably won't be visible.

01-20-2011, 09:49 AM	#74
Pablo83 ^OP Sleep, Wrench, Ride Joined: Aug 2008 Location: Woodland Park, CO Oddometer: 4,444	I'm removing the manual decomp from this bike. Where do I find a plug to cover the hole in the valve cover? __________________ Bikes: DR350 \| GR650 Street Tracker \| NX650 Turbo \| Catamount Cycles Events: 2013 Monkey-Butt 500 \| BreckTrek 2013

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: .
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode