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Old 02-07-2011, 09:54 PM   #16
Wirespokes
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Rotors and diode boards are kind of hard to test statically since under load they may not stand up. They may test good statically, but act oddly in use - seem to be working, but not quite right, or not work at all. The rotor windings may fling outward and short, the diode may function with the meter current flowing through it but not with actual power from the alternator at operating temps.

One of the places to look for bad connections (and quite often overlooked) is the light board in the gauge cluster. Two out of three I see have high resistance and my handling is to solder the foil to the input pins.

I doubt the high beam indicator blue lens melted due to too high wattage bulb. There's a long tunnel from the bulb that channels the light to it, and besides, those sockets will take only one size bulb. It's more likely the lens deformed over time from the sun and getting pretty hot in there.
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Old 02-08-2011, 08:15 AM   #17
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Thanks Wirespokes. I have the gauge cluster apart right now and I can see that the lightbulb socket contacts on the strip looks corroded.
Possibly a source of a blinking gen light?
One bulb (oil) is burned out as well.
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Old 02-08-2011, 08:32 AM   #18
lkchris
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When "carbs won't adjust," check compression.
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Old 02-08-2011, 08:53 AM   #19
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Ordered a new starter relay just to eliminate that question.
Had my NASA tech buddy run a static test on the diode board, rotor, and aternator. They all check out good.

Checked all the grounds and connections for good contact.
I'm thinking of doing an extra earth cable as described here for good measure: http://robfrankham.co.uk/bike/earthing_article.htm

In reference to the carbs, I checked the two tiny passages at the inlet , one where the idle screw comes in. I ran fishing line up thru the passages, no blockage there.
As a note, compression is good, newly rebuilt heads.
I have new idle screws and o-rings ordered.

If all comes together this weekend I might have some results...

I do have one question. The 'safety pins' for the float needles., do those just lay there or are they suppose to be hooked up to the floats somehow?
I seem to remember pulling my floats on the old /7 and the valves hanging from them...
Can't remember what went on when I pulled these apart.
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Old 02-08-2011, 09:23 AM   #20
Wirespokes
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Those safety clips go through the hole in the float valve (of course) and around the float tang the valve presses against. It helps hold the two together, and the purpose, I presume, is to ensure the valve opens the instant fuel level drops.

The bulb contacts are important, but another place to check is where the large wiring harness plug attaches to the light board. Those pins are just a press-fit connection to the light board traces and corrosion builds up at that point. Checking with an ohm meter can show thousands of ohms resistance when it should be close to zero.
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Old 02-08-2011, 12:24 PM   #21
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Had my NASA buddy go thru the gauge light flexi-board today. Followed your advice. He replaved a bust tang at the highbeam socket and soldered the pins at the board, and cleaned all conacts.
I see now what you meant by a tunnel for the blue highbeam. I managed ot replace the melt blue lens with some mylar blue stuff.

RE: the carbs, I'm going to check those float needles again.

Stay tuned...
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Old 02-08-2011, 06:32 PM   #22
photomd
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Also check your rotor while heating it with heat gun. My airhead would charge while running on 20-30 minute trips, but it was my first 300+ mile trip that the charging system slowly dropped it's voltage. Then it went back to charging after the trip. My system passed every test in the manual and on Snowbum's sight. So the only thing I could think of was to heat it with a heat gun while watching the resistence. Sure enough, the resistence went from around 3.5 and would slowly rise to infinity with more heat. I ended up going with the Enduralast system to run more heated gear, but this was an important part of trouble shooting my old system....HTH's.
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