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Old 02-16-2011, 08:25 PM   #16
bgoodsoil
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Next time we're sitting around a campfire, remind me to tell you a story about launching old enduros into lakes.
Sounds like a good story!

It has a CDI Ignition. No idea how to check the timing on that thing. I have to imagine there's a trigger somewhere that goes to that magic box then on to the bang post. Jenna's going to get the holy book of Suzuki 2-strokes and hopefully it'll hold all the answers.

The kid said it ran 'til it didn't. I don't think he was screwing with the timing when it died. I don't see damage from a wreck so I'm looking for damage from neglect. Such as not filling up that silly oil tank under the seat
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:57 PM   #17
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Tranny oil has nothing to do with crank bearings. If you inspect and measure the top end, and it is good, look at the crank shaft seals.
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:26 PM   #18
Al Tuna
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Great lookin bike Jenna!

I'll keep my fingers crossed It's an easy fix.
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:51 PM   #19
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Oh geez....

P1040951

I'd say it's toast! Yeah, the piston is really scored, but I'm not sure what to do about the jug?

P1040934

There is only a couple of places you can actually feel any of the scoring you see here. But otherwise, it is very smooth. So I don't know if I should just get it honed, or go 1 over?

This concerns me too...

P1040947

Doesn't look like a rat chewed on it, but, I'm hoping the bottom end is ok?

So, I've located a few cylinder heads that the owners claim to be smooth. If there is just a tad of scoring on the head, does it need to be bored one over, or honed, or plug it and run it?! Obviously I'll be getting piston and rings. What say you oh 2-stroke geniuses. Oh, one more thing, I was only able to find synthetic 2-stroke injector oil. How bad is that? Do I have to run mineral?

P1040946

P1040950

P1040925

Hey Brad, I left my beer hiding jacket at your place. Don't use it as a shop rag!!!!!

Oh, who hones/bores cylinder heads out in Atlanta?
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:16 PM   #20
Al Tuna
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This place was recommended in the DOG thread. http://www.therideshop.net/services.html
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Old 02-17-2011, 12:44 AM   #21
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First overbore is most likely + .25MM, and if you can't easily feel the lines in the jug, that should probably clean it up for ya. I'd replace everything on the top end while yer at it - wristpin, wristpin bearing, circlips and all the gaskets. I'd also stick to dino 2T oil, because that's what it was designed to run on. Suzuki's branded oil is VERY good, as is the Yamalube product (made for them by Spectro), and both should be available at local dealers.

Nice find, by the way. Even if you add another 2 hundred in fix-up, yer 'lil Suzi's still a bargain! Let's hope those crank seals are OK....
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Old 02-17-2011, 05:46 AM   #22
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WHEEEEEEEE

this is awesome.
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:06 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Al Tuna View Post
This place was recommended in the DOG thread. http://www.therideshop.net/services.html
Thanks Kirk! I'm hoping to chase you around on your XL with this little guy.


"Nice find, by the way. Even if you add another 2 hundred in fix-up, yer 'lil Suzi's still a bargain! Let's hope those crank seals are OK...."says Duck_Pilot

Yeah, I hope so as well. I had a gallon of yamalube and gave it away Dumb ass. I'll change over to dino before I kick it over.

Thanks Stagehand!! It is gonna be fun once it's up and running. There used to be a group of us girls with 4 or 5 vintage 2 strokes and one super sherpa that would ride every saturday at the local "no trespassing" motocross track. It was built on abandoned city property. We'd have beach umbrellas, coolers full of beer, boom box, and cameras. And we just ride all day on those bikes!!! I miss those days, but I really miss the bikes. So hoping this one will treat me right.
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:09 AM   #24
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now that you've got the top end off, check the rod bearings. Kinda difficult without tearing down the whole motor, but a couple quick checks should tell you whether you should continue before you buy a new piston and bore that cylinder.

Inspect the top (small end) of the rod, needle bearing and wrist pin. Shouldn't be any scoring, esp in the rod bushing. A little discoloration of the wrist pin is normal, but if it's blued from over heating, you'll need to worry about the rod too.

Push the crank to the bottom of it's stroke. Grab the rod and hold it upright.()
You should not feel and up and down movement, and no side to side. A little wobble is normal.

Repeat at 90 degrees all around to check further. If there's any play though, at the bottom of the stroke is were it's usually at it's worst.

I'd grab the flywheel and check for play in the mains there, no wobble and no in 'n' out.

If you really want to go all out, pull the clutch cover and check that side too.
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:10 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post
Thanks Stagehand!! It is gonna be fun once it's up and running. There used to be a group of us girls with 4 or 5 vintage 2 strokes and one super sherpa that would ride every saturday at the local "no trespassing" motocross track. It was built on abandoned city property. We'd have beach umbrellas, coolers full of beer, boom box, and cameras. And we just ride all day on those bikes!!! I miss those days, but I really miss the bikes. So hoping this one will treat me right.

good god that sounds like fun.

amazing that parts are so cheap.
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:15 AM   #26
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Oh Andy, you do realize I am a dumb ass. But I will check all of that stuff to the best of my ability. I don't have the book yet, and I may come back and ask a bunch of silly questions. Thanks for looking out for me!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by norton73 View Post
now that you've got the top end off, check the rod bearings. Kinda difficult without tearing down the whole motor, but a couple quick checks should tell you whether you should continue before you buy a new piston and bore that cylinder.

Inspect the top (small end) of the rod, needle bearing and wrist pin. Shouldn't be any scoring, esp in the rod bushing. A little discoloration of the wrist pin is normal, but if it's blued from over heating, you'll need to dig worry about the rod too.

Push the crank to the bottom of it's stroke. Grab the rod and hold it upright.()
You should not feel and up and down movement, and no side to side. A little wobble is normal.

Repeat at 90 degrees all around to check further. If there's any play though, at the bottom of the stroke is were it's usually at it's worst.

I'd grab the flywheel and check for play in the mains there, no wobble and no in 'n' out.

If you really want to go all out, pull the clutch cover and check that side too.
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:17 AM   #27
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:25 AM   #28
norton73
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Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post


Oh Andy, you do realize I am a dumb ass. But I will check all of that stuff to the best of my ability. I don't have the book yet, and I may come back and ask a bunch of silly questions. Thanks for looking out for me!!
I hardly think so.

But sometimes enthusiasim gets in the way, I'd hate to see you do a top end, only to find out it needs a crank rebuild too.
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:32 AM   #29
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So the crank has more side to side movement than up and down. The side to side it about 1mm either side, and very snug when I try to move it up and down. So, questionable? Or sound ok? The bike has 3700 miles on it which I believe to be original. The kid was running chainsaw oil in it, and apparently was parking it in a fricking lake!!! Should I still check the clutch?
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:35 AM   #30
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Oh, flywheel is nice and snug!
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