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Old 02-17-2011, 07:36 AM   #31
norton73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post
So the crank has more side to side movement than up and down. The side to side it about 1mm either side, and very snug when I try to move it up and down. So, questionable? Or sound ok? The bike has 3700 miles on it which I believe to be original. The kid was running chainsaw oil in it, and apparently was parking it in a fricking lake!!! Should I still check the clutch?
This while grabbng the flywheel? or the rod?

If it's the mains, you're probably going to need to split the cases.
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Old 02-17-2011, 07:38 AM   #32
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Oh, flywheel is nice and snug!
oops, posted my last reply before i saw this.

sounds like you're ok on the bottom end.
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Old 02-17-2011, 07:54 AM   #33
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Take a feeler gage and insert it between the side of the rod and fliywheel. Post up the size you get to fit in there. Generally more than .75MM/.030" is worn out.

That piston looks like an air leak somewhere leaned it out bad. At that age even low mileage crankshaft seals are suspect. I'd replace them were it mine. Sometimes they can be replaced without splitting cases,sometimes not. It'd be a good idea to replace them even if you do have to split the cases. If they're bad you'll be splitting the cases anyway but the parts bill will be much higher.
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:04 AM   #34
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Side to side on the rod is fine, its up and down that matters :)

Syn two stroke oil is great, don't be scared

I'd premix the oil and gas for starters and verify that the injector stuff is functional.

Measure the cylinder and see how it specs out, if its not too worn you can just hone it, if it is too worn then have it bored one over and fit a larger piston to match. Boring an steel sleeve isn't expensive and shouldn't run more than $60.
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:13 AM   #35
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Okay,

Here's some more stuff...

There's this here thingy-mabob...
P1040964

Then, this doohickey...(strange, that's actually a part)

P1040957

P1040961

brothers..

P1040981

Sisters??

P1040982

Look at how dirty this is...do i have to bleed this oil pump?

P1040974

How do these, reed valves?, look to you guys??

P1040979

So, yes, I'm an ignorant fool. But, it is bliss!! I'm 38, and have never really been into an engine. I'm from Detroit and it's about damn time I know what the hell that means!!! I mean, come on, dad was a master tool and die maker and I just removed my first piston!!! I'm a disgrace...

Stay tuned...my friends water heater just died...so gotta go fix it. At least I'm somewhat butch:ymca
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:16 AM   #36
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The oil pump looks nasty, but I've always had premix two strokes so don't know much about it. Honestly I'd probably disconnect the whole thing and run premix, but someone else may have better ideas.

The reeds look good as best I can tell from the photo.

As long as the tips of the reeds aren't chipped and they are laying flat against the reed cage you are good to go there.
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:21 AM   #37
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lol sisters

Little end bearings and wristpins whatsits look ok.
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:44 AM   #38
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since you're reboring, you're gonna replace piston/pin/small end bearing/circlips. don't bother reusing that small end bearing or wristpin - they're cheap. i didn't see a pic of the head - if it's not beat to death, there's no need to replace it. reeds look fine.

with no vertical play on the rod, and if you yank on the ignition and nothing moves, you're probably all right. can you see any rust on the big end bearing? does the rod look like it got hot/big discoloration on the bottom half of it? i would replace big end seals, they are probably accessible without splitting the cases (oops checked and according to the fiche - only the left side one is replaceable without splitting) (also look at the crank bearings when you do the seals - check for rust). i would also replace shift shaft seal, it's a common leak spot on 90% of 2 strokes, and it's cheap to replace.... it looks like it got lean at one time. coulda come through ignition side seal or intake boot. check intake boot for cracks. clean airbox boot and airbox of dirt. replace airfilter. make sure it's seated well, and no air can bypass filter. bleed oil pump. it's simple to do.


check the timing too - sometimes erosion to the front half of the piston(like in your pic) is caused by ignition too far advanced. that would make it real hard to start also.....
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Old 02-17-2011, 12:23 PM   #39
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Oh snap...where's that there head scratchin' smiley... Eh', that'll do. Well, took the cylinder to http://www.mspcycle.com/ for boring. Looks like I need 2 over std. So there goes my 200 dollar savings on the initial asking price. New piston, rings, needle bearing, clips, and wrist pin...125! Whatever, I'm learning and having fun. Had them feel the crank, and they said it felt great, so no splitting cases...this time Ah, what else. Looks as though the head gasket separated causing the leak. I dunno. Going to clean the head and other bits. Pics to follow...oh, thanks very much to all for educating me and poking at me.


Quote:
Originally Posted by stainlesscycle View Post
since you're reboring, you're gonna replace piston/pin/small end bearing/circlips. don't bother reusing that small end bearing or wristpin - they're cheap. i didn't see a pic of the head - if it's not beat to death, there's no need to replace it. reeds look fine.

with no vertical play on the rod, and if you yank on the ignition and nothing moves, you're probably all right. can you see any rust on the big end bearing? does the rod look like it got hot/big discoloration on the bottom half of it? i would replace big end seals, they are probably accessible without splitting the cases (oops checked and according to the fiche - only the left side one is replaceable without splitting) (also look at the crank bearings when you do the seals - check for rust). i would also replace shift shaft seal, it's a common leak spot on 90% of 2 strokes, and it's cheap to replace.... it looks like it got lean at one time. coulda come through ignition side seal or intake boot. check intake boot for cracks. clean airbox boot and airbox of dirt. replace airfilter. make sure it's seated well, and no air can bypass filter. bleed oil pump. it's simple to do.


check the timing too - sometimes erosion to the front half of the piston(like in your pic) is caused by ignition too far advanced. that would make it real hard to start also.....
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Old 02-17-2011, 03:03 PM   #40
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Two strokes are pretty simple, good thing You didn't pick up a KTM cheap, those will cost you some bucks.....

I hope the bike charges.

You'll love riding that ring-a-ding around town. So politically and environmentally incorrect!!! I am speaking of the bike not you!!!

At least you got a good solid looking bike to start w/.
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Old 02-17-2011, 03:08 PM   #41
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takes me back

I had a ugly yellow TS 250 1972 for about 4 years in jr high and high school takes me back. always got smoked by my friends 125 elsinore.
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Old 02-17-2011, 04:40 PM   #42
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I had a friend with one of those in HS and rode it back in the day. Fun bike.

Great info.
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Old 02-17-2011, 05:15 PM   #43
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There used to be a group of us girls with 4 or 5 vintage 2 strokes and one super sherpa that would ride every saturday at the local "no trespassing" motocross track. It was built on abandoned city property. We'd have beach umbrellas, coolers full of beer, boom box, and cameras. And we just ride all day on those bikes!!!
Next time you do this, invite me!

The supposed '2-stroke oil' that the stoner teenager had in the oil tank was dark brown Is there 2-stroke oil that isn't green? I'm willing to bet it wasn't running lean that caused this mess. It was the chainsaw bar oil he dumped in there.
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Old 02-17-2011, 05:39 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post
Looks as though the head gasket separated causing the leak. I dunno. Going to clean the head and other bits.
I'd suggest checking the head to make sure it isn't warped. The shade tree method is to lay it gasket side down on a glass plate (or even against a window) and make sure it's absolutely flat. Small differences can be cleaned up by putting emery cloth between the glass and head and moving the head over the emery in a circular motion. The shop you're having your cylinder work done in could probably check it out on their flat plate.

Also, I'd vote for changing those crankshaft seals now. It'll never be easier or cheaper!

Neat bike! Best of luck!
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Old 02-17-2011, 05:44 PM   #45
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I was amazed when Len told me you had the engine out already. Heck yeah! You just earned your Detroit street cred

Anybody know how much work is it to separate the case or what's involved? Does it separate horizontally? I don't have the bike in front of me so I can't check.

I saw someone comment on the thumper forum saying that the left side crank bearing is oiled by the 2-stroke tank somehow? They said that's why you can't run pre-mix in this engine. Anybody know anything about that? Again, it was a random comment on the internet and doesn't make a lot of sense but I thought I'd ask.
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