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Old 09-22-2010, 09:17 PM   #76
Beemerguru
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For the lower instrument cluster nacelle mount, you needed to order the one for the 1988 R100GS. It's an inch longer than the G/S version.

The brake lever should be firm..you've still got a bubble in there.

Why not try a heavier fork oil till the springs arrive? That may help the dive a bit.
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Old 09-23-2010, 05:57 AM   #77
One Less Harley OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemerguru
For the lower instrument cluster nacelle mount, you needed to order the one for the 1988 R100GS. It's an inch longer than the G/S version.

The brake lever should be firm..you've still got a bubble in there.

Why not try a heavier fork oil till the springs arrive? That may help the dive a bit.
Ive got 10w oil in there now. At $5/ pint I think I'll just suffer. It was easier to make a bracket than order one and wait, but I don't think it was that expensive.

Lever isn't to bad when I just pull it, but after a few stops it feels a little squishy.

BTW- thanks for the parts.
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Old 09-23-2010, 06:47 AM   #78
datchew
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well, it certainly looks great to me!
you'll get it sorted out.
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Old 09-23-2010, 12:24 PM   #79
SOLO LOBO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO
How much pre-load are you running on the RaceTech?
Sorry, pre-load on the emulators...
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your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 09-26-2010, 03:11 PM   #80
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I'm at 1.25 turns on the emulators. Feels pretty good.


Just got back from Moganton NC, about 100 miles off road. I was running w/ about 5 gallons of gas, on gravel roads, mostly smooth, with a small section of washboards. Comparing this fork to the G/S, well no comparison. Definitely more solid. I don't know enough about how a front end should feel to offer much criticism off road, but I'm pleased with it. I was concerned about the stock GS springs, but when only filled with about 5 gallons it seemed good to me.

THE MOST NOTICEABLE DIFFERENCE WAS ON PAVEMENT, with a full tank of gas, 11.5 gallons ,camping gear and tools, there was NO wobbling from the bike, well not completely true, at about 85mph, passing a truck, there was a little bounciness. This is probably related to the front wheel not being balanced.

On pavement I now have confidence in the front end when hitting bumps in mid curve. It feels very planted and predictable unlike the G/S front end, which had it's own ideas when cornering.

While just getting off a gravel road and feeling good to get on pavement a group (three) of us caught a BMW car on the Blue Ridge Parkway, for a while he was making a decent pace, but after a little bit he must have gotten sick of having use on his tail....too bad. He picked up the pace and still couldn't shake us. The bike felt GOOD on pavement, first time I've felt confident with pushing the bike in the twisties!



Note- the G/S front had, a billet upper triple, plus a lower hooped brace and it was still wild as hell when cornering. Felt like it was getting ready to break loose when hitting bumps mid curve. Down right dangerous.

The Harrison, needs some attention, as the firmness on the lever isn't what it should be, possibly a bubble. Need to look into it more.
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Old 09-26-2010, 06:25 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by One Less Harley
Note- the G/S front had, a billet upper triple, plus a lower hooped brace and it was still wild as hell when cornering. Felt like it was getting ready to break loose when hitting bumps mid curve. Down right dangerous.
I noticed the same effect on mine when loaded and hitting bad bumps on the highway, the entire frontend went wonky. Very unnerving at 75
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:00 PM   #82
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Raven, scares the shit out of you HUH????

The GS front completely changes the bikes handling. W/ the G/S front end I had no confidence in it and was always worried about the twitchiness, but wasn't sure if it was due to something in the rear, related to the short wheelbase or the front end. I am now convinced that if someone has a G/S and wants a more predictable bike....swap to a GS front end,a couple of simple modifications.

1) turn signal mounts
2) if you don't like the idea of the tubeless rim from the GS, you have to relace the GS rim. I wanted the same setup others might not care.
3) make a small lower bracket for the headlight nacel.


If I had had the GS front end a couple of years ago, instead of the G/S one I would not have gotten into the tank slapper and smacked the guard rail. Would have still been wreck free on a motorcycle.
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Old 10-11-2010, 05:35 PM   #83
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Latest update for the Harrison 6 pot, I was using the stock 12mm, master cylinder from the G/S, and found that when really braking hard the lever would touch my fingers. Now I have a 14mm, the lever pressure is firmer and doesn't travel as far. As of now I don't have many miles of testing for the 14mm, but it seems firmer than the 12mm, a little harder to pull but not an issue.

I was experiencing a small wheel hop at about 80 mph, balanced the front wheel with less than 1/4 oz of weight, wheel hop is gone.
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Old 02-20-2011, 09:48 AM   #84
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Damned Neutral switch

Once again the neutral switch is leaking. This will be the 4th time since I've owned the bike. Since I have so many laying around i decided to pull one apart.

Here's the exploded view, the crimp for the plastic end was cut off.



This is the inner portion of the switch.



Here's the crappy little flat sealing washer, not even an o-ring.



The flat sealling washer goes in here.



Terminal end of the switch, tabs have been broken off.



From looking at the leak, it appears that it's leaking between the Aluminum body and plastic terminal housing. It could be leaking at the two male spade terminals also.

I don't usually have anything to do w/ epoxy as it seems to just be a band aid fix, but I know of no other way to attempt to fix the switch. Of course it could be plugged w/ a 12x1.5 bolt.

So to attempt a fix, the switch was cleaned w/ brake part cleaner and blown dry w/ an compressed air. The lathered w/ 2 part epoxy around crimp and terminals.



BTW- damned thin still leaks, may need to try the brass type at Hucky's BMW
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Old 02-20-2011, 09:59 AM   #85
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Next up will be a breather modification. Just venting it out down by the swing arm on the right side. Pictures coming....
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:00 AM   #86
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I have gone back and forth as to which way to modify the breather.
1) just put a scotch brite pad and the "T" fitting and deal with the oily mess in the airbox.
2) Remove the "T" fitting and route a single line to the outside of the box and vent out into the air w/o a catch tank, or vent to a catch tank.
3) Also let the vent tube run outside of the airbox w/ a plug in the end. let the tube be the catch tank and drain the tube once or twice a year. Will still need some sort of breather filter as the crankcase needs to vent as it doesn't need to pressurize from lack of venting.

I chose option 2 for now. Sourced out one "T" fitting for outside of the bike, which is used next to the carb and ties into the fuel tank vent which is used on the R100GS fuel tank. Not used w/ the G/S tank or HPN tank. One end to air box, one to fuel tank vent, and vented to the outside..

Sourced out two bung fittings and one vacuum fitting. One bung goes the left side of the airbox where the air air injection plumbing was. Another bung was used at where the "T" fitting was in the airbox. I had to use another bung at where the "T" fitting was because i didn't find the correct size adapter for the 7/17" vacuum tube which was being used for the vent tube.


Bung fitting, w/ vacuum fitting and 7/16" vacuum line. Notice strip tie on vacuum line and snorkel. This is to keep line from loosening and potentially pulling free from the breather fitting at the airbox. There is another bung at the exit of the box where the air injection plumbing was.





"T" fitting at carb, one end goes to the fuel tank vent, the other end to the frame near the shift lever and back to the cross brace under the swing arm then strip tied next to the rear brake switch. Look closely at the middle of the photo for the white "T" fitting.




Routing by the frame.

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Old 04-24-2011, 08:21 AM   #87
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Up date for the breather mod, got some miles on the bike and NO MORE DRIPPING OIL ON THE RIGHT BOOT OR SHIFTER!! Glad this mod has cured that, it does drip a little oil out the breather tube though. Not much just a drop every now and then.

I'm very happy with how it worked out.
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:29 AM   #88
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Hey that's a nice mod. I'm gonna have to steal that idea.
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Old 05-25-2011, 12:27 PM   #89
AlpineRAM
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Final drive bearings

To whom it concerns:

The bearing part numbers from SKF are:
61917 for the big ball bearing
NKI 35/20 for the needle bearing.

The big ball bearing is significantly cheaper at BMW than at SKF (-75% list price) but the needle bearing is cheaper at SKF (approx. 50%) at least in Austria.
BMW Graz lists the needle bearing as no longer available from BMW, so I bought the whole shebang at SKF.

HTH

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Old 07-27-2011, 07:02 AM   #90
gunner65
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One Less Harley,

Reading through here I just realized I owned your R80 g/s for 3 hours. The guy you bought it from traded a bike I had for sale for it then I traded the R80 to him for an R90s. You sure had your work cut out and you did a fantastic job. I know the bike has some great history as the fellow that I got it from had it in Alaska via Ohio at least twice. Good luck on your journey.
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