Back in Black

[Geek]

Originally Posted by bikyto

I think I've already asked...but I'll keep on bugging....

what mods do you have to make to your crashbars with your new tanks

From what I understand some people have made spacers & ran the crash bars. I'm going to be doing something different but I can't talk about it yet

[Geek]

Originally Posted by DeBandi

Nice work bro.

Thanks DeBandi

Is it possible to get your state oval stickers in negative? i.e. white lettering on black stickers?

[Geek]

Originally Posted by kamanya

Hello,


I changed a bit of the plumbing on mine.

The vent and T piece didn’t work for me when the tanks are really full. If you have filled them really to the top the vent pipes because they do not loop high enough, then act as a siphon on the first application of the brakes, you then lose a litre or so. Even when not completely full and you brake, for that little time that the petrol is forward it vents out. Also the vent pipe from the "T" piece was too short as it drains to just forward of the radiator and when it does drain I can smell petrol badly.

So I changed it by buying quite a bit of piping to create a loop that runs to the highest point behind the light (it’s a tight fit). At the highest point I put the “T” piece. This pipe then runs back through the head stock and then between the left tank and the frame above the radiator and then down by the clutch slave.

The other thing I’ve done as a result of having to fill other bikes more than once is make it easier to do this.

The right hand tank runs directly to the fuel petcock instead of going to the left tank forward tap. This pipe has a “T” piece that runs to the pump. On the left hand forward tap I have a pipe that I use to tap from.

The beauty of this system is that breaking the left tank is not a show stopper – just turn off the petcock. Break the right hand tank turn off the right forward tap.

This system would not work on the 990’s because of the pump being in the tank.

I *think* I get what you are saying (and I appreciate the input helping me learn from your trial and error).
You don't have any photos of your plumbing job do you?

[Geek]

Originally Posted by kamanya

Also, I know you’ve mounted it already, but the gasket on the fuel pump plate leaks easily. I had an issue with the gasket leaking.

This is because either the tanks brass bolt threaded sockets sit very slightly proud or, as the tanks plastic is not absolutely flat one or both can mess with the gasket seal not sitting flush. I counter sunk the plates holes on the brass side just enough that the now chamfered holes sit “around” the brass thread sockets rather than on them. This got around the interference that the brass threads were creating.

No leaks ever.

I don’t have pictures, clear as mud?

That's a great idea. If mine leaks at all I'll remove it and dremel the plate down a bit so that the gasket squishes before the metal to metal contact occurs


Have you had any other leaking issues?

[StmbtDave]

Originally Posted by Geek

Has anyone had one of the KTM heated grips go bad?

My left grip has stopped working. I checked the wiring and it is all still connected. I guess my next step is to cut the entire wire off at the grip and re-wire it with different wire as there has to be a break in it somewhere

Have a volt/ohm meter? Check the resistance on the grip. You'll have to separate the grip wiring from the switch before checking so you don't pick up the resistance from the good grip. Check at the switch end of the wire as well as right where the wires come out of the grip. If you get an open reading at the switch end of the wires but resistance at the grip, the grip is good but the wiring is bad. If open reading both locations, the grip is bad.

Dave

[EvilClown]

Loving this thread, Geek!

Can you tell us what fairing this is you're using and where to find one?



Thanx.

[Geek]

Originally Posted by StmbtDave

Have a volt/ohm meter? Check the resistance on the grip. You'll have to separate the grip wiring from the switch before checking so you don't pick up the resistance from the good grip. Check at the switch end of the wire as well as right where the wires come out of the grip. If you get an open reading at the switch end of the wires but resistance at the grip, the grip is good but the wiring is bad. If open reading both locations, the grip is bad.

Dave

Thanks Dave

That is pretty much my plan the only real issue is accessing the wire where it enters these molded KTM grips.. they are sealed up pretty well. No worries; I'll skin 'em and then "liquid electrical tape" 'em.

[Geek]

Originally Posted by EvilClown

Loving this thread, Geek!

Can you tell us what fairing this is you're using and where to find one?



Thanx.

Are you referring to my windscreen?

If so.. it is made by Ganshert here on ADV - his company is SGMoto. It is a GREAT solution that will be available later this spring.


Here's a photo (or two or three) from different angles

[SierraJeep]

Originally Posted by Geek

I've been looking at this photo now in several threads for the past week or so... Like others, I am interested in this type of windscreen. Since it is not see-through, I wonder why someone doesn't install a lip (or lips) along the inside edges so that folks could install buttons/toggles/farkles/etc. on the back side of the windscreen itself? Now that you're going to lose the upper parts of your fairings, it looks like you're going to lose a few switches, too. A lip or two behind the windscreen (maybe with a hollow channel down the back side to route a wire or two) may be a nifty spot to mount a switch. Thoughts?

[ten_fiver]

Originally Posted by SierraJeep

I've been looking at this photo now in several threads for the past week or so... Like others, I am interested in this type of windscreen. Since it is not see-through, I wonder why someone doesn't install a lip (or lips) along the inside edges so that folks could install buttons/toggles/farkles/etc. on the back side of the windscreen itself? Now that you're going to lose the upper parts of your fairings, it looks like you're going to lose a few switches, too. A lip or two behind the windscreen (maybe with a hollow channel down the back side to route a wire or two) may be a nifty spot to mount a switch. Thoughts?

Not a bad idea. The only problem I see is removing the screen later. Maybe you could wire up your switches etc with some kind of quick-connects. I like the idea though

[Geek]

I'm now officially looking forward to the "freezing our buttes off" ride this saturday.

The forecast hasn't improved at all but I picked up 3000 btus of tent-happiness when it is -15 celcius.



Now I just have to put the bike back together.
I was lazy and pulled the radiator to make my front cylinder access easier for the valve check. Now I get to pay for it in trying to burp the cooling system again

[Geek]

Originally Posted by SierraJeep

I've been looking at this photo now in several threads for the past week or so... Like others, I am interested in this type of windscreen. Since it is not see-through, I wonder why someone doesn't install a lip (or lips) along the inside edges so that folks could install buttons/toggles/farkles/etc. on the back side of the windscreen itself? Now that you're going to lose the upper parts of your fairings, it looks like you're going to lose a few switches, too. A lip or two behind the windscreen (maybe with a hollow channel down the back side to route a wire or two) may be a nifty spot to mount a switch. Thoughts?

I don't see why you couldn't do this. Heck, spray the inside of a stock screen black and have at it - its not like you ever look through the thing.

Here's a bigger photo of the area

[jay71]

I think I saw a set of those fancy silcone coolant hoses at Faye Meyers the other day- if you were thinking about changing over while you have the coolant out.

[bikyto]

Originally Posted by Geek

From what I understand some people have made spacers & ran the crash bars. I'm going to be doing something different but I can't talk about it yet

Thanks for the tip

Carbon fiber in the works....

[Geek]

Has anyone else had a KTM brand heated grip fail?

I figured it was the wiring and cut the wires off at the base and rewired the entire thing.. but no luck. The grip itself is bad (I have electricity right up to the grip).