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Old 02-28-2011, 05:10 AM   #16
Rob Farmer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reryder View Post
Last time I changed the chain on my 81 R100RS I stumbled over a new trick that makes it easier.
Those single chains are really quick and easy to do. It's the duplex chains that are a pain in the arse.
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:08 AM   #17
The Raven
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Small zip tie to hold them together while you insert the ML...
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Old 02-28-2011, 09:10 AM   #18
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Thank you all for your very helpful advice.

I've got some parts on order and I'm ready to dive in when they get here...

If anyone's interested, I ordered a kit from motobins:

http://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts....20valve%20Twin

Click "engine parts" and then in the drop down menus click "timing chain kits." The whole shebang for $65ish, depending on the exchange rate when you click "buy."
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:14 AM   #19
r2adv
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Sprocket

Make sure you look at the sprocket carefully. I took my chain off and noticed some significant wear on the upper sprocket.

Note the worn teeth on the old one - right.

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Old 02-28-2011, 11:28 AM   #20
supershaft
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That is a very good photo of a very worn sprocket. To a somewhat lesser extent usually, I see worn crank sprockets like that almost every time I replace a chain. I have never seen a worn simplex cam sprocket myself although I did see a picture of one on the net. I see them on duplex setups about half the time. The duplex setups just don't wear as well for some reason.
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:32 AM   #21
datchew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brentde3 View Post
Thank you all for your very helpful advice.

I've got some parts on order and I'm ready to dive in when they get here...

If anyone's interested, I ordered a kit from motobins:

http://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts....20valve%20Twin

Click "engine parts" and then in the drop down menus click "timing chain kits." The whole shebang for $65ish, depending on the exchange rate when you click "buy."
Thanks for that.
I'm due on my 89GS and I was wondering if I had to take it all apart before knowing what to order.
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Old 02-28-2011, 03:46 PM   #22
brentde3 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r2adv View Post
Make sure you look at the sprocket carefully. I took my chain off and noticed some significant wear on the upper sprocket.

Note the worn teeth on the old one - right.
Do you usually see the same problem with the lower sprocket? And, is it a good idea to just order the sprocket(s), or tear it down and see exactly what the condition is?
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Old 03-01-2011, 05:41 PM   #23
Reryder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Farmer View Post
Those single chains are really quick and easy to do. It's the duplex chains that are a pain in the arse.

Same trick of putting the old link in from the front to hold the chain together while you fiddle the new link in from the rear would work on a duplex too.
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Old 03-01-2011, 06:05 PM   #24
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I did the double row chain on my '77 R100/7 without much trouble. My sprockets were in good shape, I didn't want to remove them (and I didn't have any pullers). So I cut the chain with a cutting wheel and installed the new chain and master link. I did replace the tensioner assy... I didn't have any real trouble. I have put about 10k miles on it since...
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Old 03-01-2011, 07:18 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Carrizojim View Post
So I cut the chain with a cutting wheel and installed the new chain and master link.
It seems the bolt cutter solution might be a preferred approach to avoid sending cutting debris places where it may get washed into the sump? (I guess that's a question.)
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:52 AM   #26
Carrizojim
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Originally Posted by fishkens View Post
It seems the bolt cutter solution might be a preferred approach to avoid sending cutting debris places where it may get washed into the sump? (I guess that's a question.)
Yes, that would be preferred, I plugged openings and then washed everything down before assembling and closing things up. I wrapped up the upper bearing before cutting.
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Old 03-03-2011, 07:16 AM   #27
jtwind
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The A#1 chain breaker! Just used it on my dr 650 drive chain also. For the double row chain even a large bolt cutter like this won't cut all the way back. You need to cut a gap in the first row of chain and then reach in to get the back links.

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Old 03-03-2011, 07:27 AM   #28
brentde3 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtwind View Post
The A#1 chain breaker! Just used it on my dr 650 drive chain also. For the double row chain even a large bolt cutter like this won't cut all the way back. You need to cut a gap in the first row of chain and then reach in to get the back links.

I want to build a table like that! Any info?
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Old 03-03-2011, 07:38 AM   #29
jtwind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brentde3 View Post
I want to build a table like that! Any info?
No that is r2adv's table. He posted the photo of the sprockets earlier in this thread. I'm sure he'll tell you what's up if you PM him or maybe he'll see this. But in general what you see is what you get. I think they are going to trim the side 2x's so there is more access.
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Old 03-03-2011, 01:45 PM   #30
Hawk Medicine
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I've been cutting my old timing chains out using bolt/chain cutters for years.

I got to the point where I could swap a /6 chain at night on the back patio, using a trouble light.

Once you've done it two or three times, timing chains are a snap. Not fun, but you know what I mean!
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