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Old 03-11-2011, 10:47 AM   #16
Grayghost66 OP
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Originally Posted by The Raven View Post
The 6mm are the spacers
The 1.18mm are wave washers and belong on the outside of the frame under the nut.
I still stick with going with Maxes Fisch and replace the spacers the way they are supposed to be. I had a lot of Fked up stuff on my bike....amazing what can get changed out over 25 years
Hey Adam,

First, many thanks for all your input with this. I pulled up Max's fiche on the computer and not only is there the exploded diagram BUT there is also digital images of the washers and spacers next to a rular!!! All shown have the gold anodized/or aladine finish to them. I only have the two thinner gold "washers" and not the much larger (almost 10mm) "spacer".

What had me baffled was that since I bought my bike new from the dealer (it was literally in the shipping crate and not assembled for delivery when I bought it) I made the assumption that the bike had never had the engine removed.

I never considered that when the bike was assembled at the factory they might have run out of a particular spacer and substituted stacked up washers to the appropriate thickess - after all these are spacers NOT bearing shims. Could have been the day after Oktorberfest as well.

I am going to buy the correct spacers and reassemble the engine based on the fiche. Again many thanks.
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Old 03-11-2011, 10:58 AM   #17
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It's funny, one of the methods of pulling the trans is to actually pull the front spacer and tilt the engine. Don't know what drunk tech though of that one, but in returning the pin back I did what you did. Not having the common sense or advice to actually go and look at MAXBMW. I installed the big spacer on the oil cover side figuring that made more common sense. Not so....I didn't realize this until I put about 4K on the bike. When I went back to correct it the frame had bent and made putting the correct spacer a PITA. Gladly it's settled back where it's supposed to be now, as I pulled the engine and she slipped back in without so much as a grunt.

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Originally Posted by Grayghost66 View Post
Hey Adam,

First, many thanks for all your input with this. I pulled up Max's fiche on the computer and not only is there the exploded diagram BUT there is also digital images of the washers and spacers next to a rular!!! All shown have the gold anodized/or aladine finish to them. I only have the two thinner gold "washers" and not the much larger (almost 10mm) "spacer".

What had me baffled was that since I bought my bike new from the dealer (it was literally in the shipping crate and not assembled for delivery when I bought it) I made the assumption that the bike had never had the engine removed.

I never considered that when the bike was assembled at the factory they might have run out of a particular spacer and substituted stacked up washers to the appropriate thickess - after all these are spacers NOT bearing shims. Could have been the day after Oktorberfest as well.

I am going to buy the correct spacers and reassemble the engine based on the fiche. Again many thanks.
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Old 03-11-2011, 11:20 AM   #18
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Eek

Holy crap. I just remembered that I had the "dealer" in Toronto do a spline lube some years back! I wonder what technique the tech used to gain access to the trans spline????

Thinking that a flat rate shop would want to do the job as fast as possable (read short cuts).... would they have pulled the engine pins, and loosened the swingarm pivots to seperate the engine/trans? If this was the case.....it could have been the dealer.
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Old 03-11-2011, 02:01 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Grayghost66 View Post
Holy crap. I just remembered that I had the "dealer" in Toronto do a spline lube some years back! I wonder what technique the tech used to gain access to the trans spline????

Thinking that a flat rate shop would want to do the job as fast as possable (read short cuts).... would they have pulled the engine pins, and loosened the swingarm pivots to seperate the engine/trans? If this was the case.....it could have been the dealer.
Doubtful... the easiest way to pull the trans is to removed the swingarm pivots, pull it back and just lift the trans out... no need to move the engine mount bolts
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your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 03-11-2011, 03:38 PM   #20
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Doubtful... the easiest way to pull the trans is to removed the swingarm pivots, pull it back and just lift the trans out... no need to move the engine mount bolts
Yup. But the BMW Factory repair manual at least for the R80G/S says to remove both pins and lift engine forward and tilt. It's right there
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Old 03-11-2011, 04:29 PM   #21
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Yup. But the BMW Factory repair manual at least for the R80G/S says to remove both pins and lift engine forward and tilt. It's right there
Well yeah, that's what the manual says... but in the time I worked for a BMW shop, spent time hanging at shops I have yet to see a trans pulled the way the manual says to...

And, I've had mine out at least five times only pulling the swing arm back and away!
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your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 03-11-2011, 04:38 PM   #22
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Well yeah, that's what the manual says... but in the time I worked for a BMW shop, spent time hanging at shops I have yet to see a trans pulled the way the manual says to...

And, I've had mine out at least five times only pulling the swing arm back and away!
The best and only way is to pull the swingarm. I only did the manual way once....it was enough. I've pulled the trans three times.
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Old 03-11-2011, 05:26 PM   #23
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The best and only way is to pull the swingarm. I only did the manual way once....it was enough. I've pulled the trans three times.
This was my first time pulling the transmission and I recall my major problem was when pulling the transmission back it hit on a frame member and I couldn't get the internal clutch (thrust?) rod to clear. As I was doing this with no helper I remember trying to get the transmission to clear and the damn clutch rod was getting in the way.

In hindsight (with a helper) I could have pushed the rod into the transmission to get it to clear. Next time will be easier. Would be nice to pull the swingarm, and not deal with the engine pins.
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Old 03-11-2011, 05:34 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Grayghost66 View Post
This was my first time pulling the transmission and I recall my major problem was when pulling the transmission back it hit on a frame member and I couldn't get the internal clutch (thrust?) rod to clear. As I was doing this with no helper I remember trying to get the transmission to clear and the damn clutch rod was getting in the way.

In hindsight (with a helper) I could have pushed the rod into the transmission to get it to clear. Next time will be easier. Would be nice to pull the swingarm, and not deal with the engine pins.
Pull the clutch rod and remove the actuator pin that goes through the trans...makes life a lot easier.
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Old 03-12-2011, 08:53 AM   #25
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The push the engine forward is a carry over from the previous models..especially the /2 era. Easier than messing with the twin shock rear swing arm.

I tried it on a G/S exactly once...never again.

Moving the single swing arm is SO much easier. With the right tools and experience, the tranny is on the bench in 30 minutes or less.

Just did it this morning..in fact for the R100GS it's even faster since you have more room.
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Old 03-12-2011, 10:15 AM   #26
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Sadly, With so many conflicting ways of doing things in the manuals It's almost a better idea to just come to ADV and read up as well as ask questions
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Old 03-12-2011, 02:54 PM   #27
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Pull the clutch rod and remove the actuator pin that goes through the trans...makes life a lot easier.
In hindsight...ths would have made life alot easier! Oh well. I'm having fun renewing alot of the parts and giving the bike a good going through.

While the trany is away (did I mention I am also going to get a taller 5th gear - swiinnnggg!!!), powder coat a few parts and renew alot of rubber bushings, and rebuild the BINGS. I have hoping what rolls out of the garage is a sweet ride.

As a special gift to the bike I am treating it to a new Wilbers Shock to replace the stocker. The story if anyone asks is I need it for safety as the original is 20 years old. Yeah thats it.....SAFETY
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Old 03-12-2011, 03:02 PM   #28
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In hindsight...ths would have made life alot easier! Oh well. I'm having fun renewing alot of the parts and giving the bike a good going through.

While the trany is away (did I mention I am also going to get a taller 5th gear - swiinnnggg!!!), powder coat a few parts and renew alot of rubber bushings, and rebuild the BINGS. I have hoping what rolls out of the garage is a sweet ride.

As a special gift to the bike I am treating it to a new Wilbers Shock to replace the stocker. The story if anyone asks is I need it for safety as the original is 20 years old. Yeah thats it.....SAFETY
That's the fun part about these bikes, as long as you dont screw something up too bad you can learn a lot by wrenching. So many other bikes are not very home mechanic friendly.
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