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Old 03-29-2010, 11:24 AM   #46
Tollwatch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden
Hmm, very odd. As far as I know there is no minimum number of posts to upload.

Jim
I post pics to other forums that use vBulletin so I know there is no restrictions on my end.
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Old 03-30-2010, 04:23 PM   #47
Martincito
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Yesterday I installed my Rox risers and I have some questions.

I had to put the brake line under the triple clamp.
Anyone had any problem with this?
It looks a little bit bent

The the clutch side was easy. The clutch line has enough clearance just moving some zip ties but I have to put under the triple clamp the electric wiring going to the left handlebar.
At the end I had to unbolt the fork tubes on both sides
Anyone can tell me the proper torque value for the fork tubes?

I'm having a hard time trying to adjust the male torx bolts from the handlebar.
I know that JVB suggested to change those bolts.
What kind of bolts should I buy?
Where?

Thanks
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Old 04-01-2010, 11:49 AM   #48
Martincito
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martincito
Yesterday I installed my Rox risers and I have some questions.

I had to put the brake line under the triple clamp.
Anyone had any problem with this?
It looks a little bit bent

The the clutch side was easy. The clutch line has enough clearance just moving some zip ties but I have to put under the triple clamp the electric wiring going to the left handlebar.
At the end I had to unbolt the fork tubes on both sides
Anyone can tell me the proper torque value for the fork tubes?

I'm having a hard time trying to adjust the male torx bolts from the handlebar.
I know that JVB suggested to change those bolts.
What kind of bolts should I buy?
Where?

Thanks

Somebody can give me the torque values for the fork tubes?
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Old 06-26-2010, 12:42 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dialdn
My final install after throttle cable move. Just removed tie wraps and install a couple others on clutch side. Front brake side was fine. Pics are from iPhone.

D



I know, dumb question, but I still dont see how you all are installing these. The 4 torx head bolts from the factory mounts ..... how do you tighten those? you can see you cant get a socket on them in these pics. I just went and bought a set of External Torx sockets to remove the stock ones but now can't tighten them back up with the Rox risers in place. Is there such thing as a torx wrench?? I never have seen one. Someone mentioned replacing them with allen head bolts, well look at the pics, you couldnt get an allen head wrench or socket on them. I know I am missing something here .......

any help ....
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Old 06-26-2010, 01:00 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _DreamRider_
I know, dumb question, but I still dont see how you all are installing these. The 4 torx head bolts from the factory mounts ..... how do you tighten those?
The idea is that you rotate the risers to a point that allows you to tighten either the front or back torx on both the left and right side while leaving the opposite torx on each riser loose, now put the risers in their final position, opposite of your first maneuver, to tighten the torx you originally left loose.

This video shows what I mean starting at about 8:00
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=31550745
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Old 06-26-2010, 10:37 PM   #51
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I just did the install today and it took about 30 minutes including re-routing the hydraulic and electrical lines. As far as adjusting the E10 bolts, I purchased a E10 Stahlwille wrench on eBay a while ago and used that. It worked well. I contemplated changing out the E10 bolts for some Allen bolts, but getting an Allen wrench in there would be almost impossible, a ball long socket might to the job, but I will just carry the E10 wrench in my tool bag instead.

Thanks to all of those that posted pictures and procedures on how to re-route the lines, it was helpful.

Derek
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Old 06-29-2010, 04:22 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianstanfill
The idea is that you rotate the risers to a point that allows you to tighten either the front or back torx on both the left and right side while leaving the opposite torx on each riser loose, now put the risers in their final position, opposite of your first maneuver, to tighten the torx you originally left loose.

This video shows what I mean starting at about 8:00
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=31550745

thanks for this.............i did mine (09gsa) yesterday just like you showed in your video and everything worked out great......no re-routing, nothing pinched........thanks
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Old 06-29-2010, 04:34 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitzo
thanks for this.............i did mine (09gsa) yesterday just like you showed in your video and everything worked out great......no re-routing, nothing pinched........thanks
Good to hear! That's not my video, but I found it helpful to me and wanted to share.

I had to move my throttle cable to the front of the fork because a tight turn caused the engine to rev slightly. It's an easy process on the air-dampened forks. Check out photos 9-15 in the original post (OP).
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Old 12-06-2010, 12:15 PM   #54
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Just got my ROX risers and will install soon on my 2008 GS (not GSA). I will replace the crappy Torx bolts for the handlebar clamps with some standard hex head bolts.

Can someone please confirm the exact size of these bolts as I would like to buy them before I do the installation. Post #30 of this thread states M8x30 for the bolt size? I can't tell if this is the bolt in question. Is this the correct size for a 2008 GS? And I am assuming that these are stainless steel? What about thread pitch, etc?

Thanks in advance for this info, I'll see where I can find these locally.
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Old 12-06-2010, 02:56 PM   #55
bemiiten
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If you want to torque it with what you have, assemble the risers oriented far forward so you can access the clamp bolts with a socket. Torque 'em and index the nut locations. Now put the risers in the normal position and simply return the nuts to the index marks.
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Old 12-06-2010, 03:25 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by bemiiten View Post
If you want to torque it with what you have, assemble the risers oriented far forward so you can access the clamp bolts with a socket. Torque 'em and index the nut locations. Now put the risers in the normal position and simply return the nuts to the index marks.
So you are saying I can torque these Torx bolts with the standard 12pt hex head socket/wrench? I didn't think torquing these with the hex head wrench was a good idea. Of course I don't have the Torx female socket for this bolt, hence the questions....
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Old 12-07-2010, 05:12 AM   #57
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Dave,

Most of us replaced the E-Torx bolts with Allens, or in the case above, with standard bolts.

Jim
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Old 12-11-2010, 07:05 PM   #58
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Ok, so I got my new ROX risers installed the other day. No problem with the stupid male torx bolts. The 2008 GS has different size torx bolts in the front and the rear of the handlebar clamp. I ended up using a 8mm 12pt wrench on the small ones and a 3/8" 12pt wrench on the larger ones. The 8mm was a better fit, but I was able to torque the bolts down no problem.

I had to reroute the throttle cable under the bars, no way it was going to work stock. Easy job, just opened the housing, used a small flat head screwdriver to pry the cable and knob out of the throttle tube and it came right out. Simple.

I also dropped the fork tubes to route the lines and wires in front of the triple clamp but I didn't like this. The angle on the brake and clutch lines was too much and the lines & wires rubbed against the fairing. I was able make the stock configuration work, although the lines are pretty tight at full lock. I don't ride much at full lock anyway so I don't really think this is an issue.

Installed, the ROX risers are solid. No way these things are going to rotate. The position is great, I like 'em. Although I will say this...2" doesn't sound like much, but the difference in position is drastic. These risers will make a huge difference and the adjustability is really nice.

Here are my pix:



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Old 03-15-2011, 08:27 AM   #59
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Resurrecting an older thread...
My bars are rotated pretty far down, so that in effect that are back, so I can sit upright more (it is easier on my shoulders) plus I like to sit rear on the seat. I have seen the Illium Bar Backs which say bring the bars further back and up for about 2" diagonal movement. Can the the Rox Risers do that as well? It sounds like most folks use them to bring the bars up.
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Old 03-15-2011, 12:29 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deeve View Post
Resurrecting an older thread...
My bars are rotated pretty far down, so that in effect that are back, so I can sit upright more (it is easier on my shoulders) plus I like to sit rear on the seat. I have seen the Illium Bar Backs which say bring the bars further back and up for about 2" diagonal movement. Can the the Rox Risers do that as well? It sounds like most folks use them to bring the bars up.
The Rox risers are 2" of difference, so if you have them diagonal they will be 2" also. Or diagonal at 45 degrees would be 1.4" up and 1.4" back.

Like I said before the difference is drastic even though it is only 2". It is nice to have the adjustability of the ROX risers to dial in your most comfortable position.

Sadly I will probably be posting my ROX risers in the Flea Market soon. The upright position was great, but it was putting too much weight on my tailbone and making it sore. Something to think about.
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