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Old 03-15-2011, 04:09 PM   #76
dede
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside View Post

We'll give it a try.

First, I have no idea what "passing the testing cycle" might mean.

What does the meter read on VAC with the wheel spinning?

Most digital meters have a frequency counter, does your meter have one?

thanks for responding

Passing the test cycle for a Rostra unit means putting it into test mode and when you push the resume/acc button a diode lights in the unit as does the coast/decel button, then when you spin the wheel by hand the light will begin to flash to indicate it is picking up the signal from the VSS but it only flashes and does not change with wheel speed.


My meter is a Triplett 9010 and I asume you mean set to Volts AC (on mine it is ACV), again I'm no electrical engineer. When hooked to the bike it reads .017 volts in first gear just above idle.

I don't know what a frequency counter is.

Oh ya, I had the red lead on the meter hooked to the ZEF speed out put and the black to the battery ground terminal.
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Old 03-15-2011, 05:12 PM   #77
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What's the ZEF?



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Old 03-16-2011, 08:11 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside View Post
What's the ZEF?


Sorry typo ZFE read this http://www.bmwra.org/otl/canbus/
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Old 03-17-2011, 01:49 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dede View Post
My meter is a Triplett 9010 and I asume you mean set to Volts AC (on mine it is ACV), again I'm no electrical engineer. When hooked to the bike it reads .017 volts in first gear just above idle.

I don't know what a frequency counter is.
I wasn't able to find "Triplett 9010" data. Not to beg off but if you don't know what a frequency counter is, and if there isn't an AC content to the speed signal, or the signal isn't measurable by the means in use, then it looks like it's a bridge too far to do this over the internet. Sorry. Good luck getting it sorted with some local help.


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Old 03-17-2011, 07:03 PM   #80
Crilly
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I use one of these.

SCHNEIDER ELECTRIC Prox Sensor, 8mm, NPN, NO, Rge 1.5mm, M12
Electrical > Switches > Proximity Sensors and Switches
Proximity Sensor, Cylindrical, Inductive, Dia 8 mm, Length 2.4 In, Width 0.31 In, Depth 0.31 In, Volts Type DC, Voltage Range 12-24, Circuit Type NPN, Detecting Distance 1.5 mm, Shielded, Temp Range -13 to 158 F, Max Load 50 mA, Case Nickel Plated Brass, NEMA Type 4X, Connector Type M12, Standards UL, CE, RoHS, CSA
Grainger Item # 1EVJ4
Price (ea.) $86.30
Brand SCHNEIDER ELECTRIC

It is a proximity sensor from WW Grainger. 12 VDC NPN 3 wire.

I mount it so it senses the bolts on the rear brake rotor. Works great. I use 6000 pulses per mile.

I just order the other wheel, cover and spring from the RT Splitter box. I also drill out the splitter box for the curse cable.

Good luck
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Old 03-18-2011, 08:06 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crilly View Post
I use one of these.

SCHNEIDER ELECTRIC Prox Sensor, 8mm, NPN, NO, Rge 1.5mm, M12
Electrical > Switches > Proximity Sensors and Switches
Proximity Sensor, Cylindrical, Inductive, Dia 8 mm, Length 2.4 In, Width 0.31 In, Depth 0.31 In, Volts Type DC, Voltage Range 12-24, Circuit Type NPN, Detecting Distance 1.5 mm, Shielded, Temp Range -13 to 158 F, Max Load 50 mA, Case Nickel Plated Brass, NEMA Type 4X, Connector Type M12, Standards UL, CE, RoHS, CSA
Grainger Item # 1EVJ4
Price (ea.) $86.30
Brand SCHNEIDER ELECTRIC

It is a proximity sensor from WW Grainger. 12 VDC NPN 3 wire.

I mount it so it senses the bolts on the rear brake rotor. Works great. I use 6000 pulses per mile.

I just order the other wheel, cover and spring from the RT Splitter box. I also drill out the splitter box for the curse cable.

Good luck

Thanks Crilly, I had considered, since my bike is non ABS mounting a prox to the front wheel in the bracket cast for the front ABS pick-up and doing something like you are talking about if I can't get a pulse from the bike. Are you using the Rostra CC, where did you mount the box? I already modified throttle housing to twin cable before reading about the Bowden Box mods.
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Old 03-18-2011, 06:29 PM   #82
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If you mount it on the front wheel and the rear looses traction the cruise will open the throttle and spin the wheel real fast. If mounted to the rear it will just try to keep the wheel at the same speed. I mounted it below the seat on the left side. I use big wire ties. And yes I use the rostra electric cruise control. It works better in the mountains (at Altitude) then vacuum ones. I now use the stick switches with a balloon over it to water proof it. Use a color balloon that matches the bike.
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Old 03-18-2011, 06:46 PM   #83
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One other thing. Make sure you cut off any excess cable housing inside the splitter box. It caused mechanical problems (stuck throttle) that I thought for the longest time was electrical.
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Old 03-18-2011, 07:24 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crilly View Post

If you mount it on the front wheel and the rear looses traction the cruise will open the throttle and spin the wheel real fast. If mounted to the rear it will just try to keep the wheel at the same speed.
Do you have experience with this? I mean, I realize it sounds like that's what would happen.

Cruise control authority has a Rate Of Change limit, and other conditional tests built into its control loop that prevent such operation.

I see that you used an aftermarket sensor and that it works well for you. That's a good solution, especially if the factory-equipped wheel speed sensor can't be sorted.


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Old 03-18-2011, 08:17 PM   #85
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Posted by Poolside.
Do you have experience with this? I mean, I realize it sounds like that's what would happen.


Lost traction with a throttle lock in the rain once, spun the rear wheel up pretty fast before I caught it.

I donot use the tack wire. All the hook-ups are to the battery threw a relay fuse bloc, except the relay hooked up to the brake light.

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Old 03-18-2011, 10:24 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crilly View Post

Lost traction with a throttle lock in the rain once, spun the rear wheel up pretty fast before I caught it.
That must have been a fun moment or two!

Mostly when using a throttle lock I'm riding with no hands, but in the rain? You are definitely a thrillseeker! Cheers!


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Old 03-21-2011, 07:43 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crilly View Post
If you mount it on the front wheel and the rear looses traction the cruise will open the throttle and spin the wheel real fast. If mounted to the rear it will just try to keep the wheel at the same speed. I mounted it below the seat on the left side. I use big wire ties. And yes I use the rostra electric cruise control. It works better in the mountains (at Altitude) then vacuum ones. I now use the stick switches with a balloon over it to water proof it. Use a color balloon that matches the bike.
Good point, thanks I'll reconsider my mounting ideas. Hey can you save me some more fishing around and tell me where you tapped in the clutch and brake light safety kill wires? I have mounted this unit to another bike but not to a GS.
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:34 AM   #88
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I do not use any other wires but a relay to the brake light. Kill switches, and rev limiters will have to suffice. You run the brake light wire to ground (N/C) through a relay and operate the relay from the brake light on the bike.
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Old 04-12-2011, 08:06 PM   #89
BluByU
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1150gsa

Anyone worked out the bowden box for an 1150GSA?

I have a CCS100 in the box, will most likely pick up a Rostra so as to cut out the vacuum hoses. I have installed the CCS100 kit on several bikes and a few cars. My older GSA throttle cables have me puzzled.
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Old 05-09-2011, 12:51 PM   #90
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I finally got it all buttoned up and the Rostra unit works great. I rode on the interstate a couple of times, the only odd thing was in gusty head winds the unit speeds up and if the wind drops before reaching the set speed then the speed is not very constant but only varies about 3-5 mph. At 75 mph in fairly calm conditions it is smooth up and down hills and when I push the ACCELL button it speeds up 1-2 mph and when I hit the COAST button it slows about the same amount, all in all worth the work. As you can see in the pics I converted my 2009 GSA throttle to a twin cable system using two stock GS cables and the throttle drum from a 1300GT. The unit can be overpowered by pulling the throttle closed. My bike is non ABS and the Rostra unit bolted in the place of the ABS unit on a bracket I made. I ditched the factory cable from the Rostra and made an Aluminum adapter to go from the CC unit to the factory GS cable, I then cut the Bowden box end off the factory cable and welded my own on to achieve the desired inner cable length and fit the Rostra unit. Someone on this thread stated that the three pin plug under the beak contained a VSS signal and they were correct, the blue w/ green stripe worked for the 6400 pulses per mile setting. I did not use the clutch disconnect as I would have needed to add another relay besides the rear brake relay.









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