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Old 03-12-2011, 04:38 PM   #31
Kevin 007 OP
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So now that the snow is disappering...I have been riding/tuning the bike a bit.
I mentioned earlier that I moved the E clip on the carb needle down a couple notches...this is where is runs the best. I tried each notch, and the middle one is where it likes it. I have also played with the air screw each time I switched notches.
But the problem is still there, not as bad...but still noticable. I also mentioned that the sputter was happening between idle and 1/4 throttle. Well its actually between idle and maybe 1/16 throttle! It happens just as I open the throttle the slightest amount.. But as soon as I open it any further it runs GREAT!!! and idles great to.
What should I try next? new needle?
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Old 03-14-2011, 04:51 PM   #32
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And the plug is nice and tan...it was always on the dark side before.
I am now starting to experiment with Interceptor premix at a 40:1 Mix
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Old 03-15-2011, 10:17 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin 007 View Post
I also mentioned that the sputter was happening between idle and 1/4 throttle. Well its actually between idle and maybe 1/16 throttle! It happens just as I open the throttle the slightest amount.. But as soon as I open it any further it runs GREAT!!! and idles great to
usually a stutter that low (does it go guh/guh/guh then recover instantly and rev fine. like it makes a stutter noise (but not a bog/power loss) when you just ride it with throttle barely cracked open?) is USUALLY a pilot/slide transition issue. or maybe slide/needle transition. what's happening is the slide cutaway is too rich compared to the needle and pilot. the only real way to get rid of it is to go with a leaner slide. that might get rid of the stutter, BUT you may suffer powerwise...(i just went through this on a another bike. replaced slide with leaner cutaway, bike reved and sounded awesome on the stand, but under load it bogged out bad - the bike needed the richer slide to make power in that crucial spot.... i would not recommend changing the slide. you can either lean/richen the pilot out 1 step, or richen/lean the needle 1 step. that may fix it (not sure which way you need to go...) or maybe playing with the airscrew a bit more will get rid of it... the problem with any of these fixes is it may affect how it idles, and ultimately how easy it is to start.......


you really should pick a premix mixture and stick with it. fix jetting with brass, not liquid...
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Old 03-16-2011, 05:51 PM   #34
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Yes that is exactly what it is doing. NO power loss, just that guh/guh/guh then instant power gain and smoothness as I open the throttle further. And just as you mentioned, when not under load it idles and revs through the range perfectly!
The jetting is all stock but I will try to find a richer pilot. I think I have the needle set right for the current jetting...or at least its set to where it performs the best.

Ok, I am going to stick with a 40:1 interceptor mix. I am still afraid to go much leaner than that.
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Old 03-17-2011, 02:20 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Kevin 007 View Post
The jetting is all stock but I will try to find a richer pilot.
what is happening is the slide cutaway is too rich for the pilot, so the transition is rough.

if you go richer on the pilot, it may or may not work.... what really needs to happen is the slide cutaway needs to be leaner. which is a pain and kinda pricey for the risk. and when you change slide cutaway, most likely needle position, main jet, and possibly needle will need to change.

if there is no loss of power, there's no need to mess with it. try lowering the clip (raising the needle) 1 position. it may get rid of it. or turn the airscrew in/out 1/4-1/2 turn...see if that fixes it.
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Old 03-17-2011, 09:27 PM   #36
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I have tried each position on the needle, then ran the bike through the ranges, started it many times in each position also. It seems to run the best in the middle position. (3 up from the bottom) That is where I left it.

I have the air screw turned out about 1-1/4 turn...thats where it does the best also.

Should I go ahead and put a richer pilot in? ....if I can get one that is
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Old 03-19-2011, 07:17 PM   #37
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Another thing I would like to mention is that it will still run with the air screw turned in all the way. I have to bump up the idle just a bit of course, but not much.

The pilot jet says "05"
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Old 03-22-2011, 06:59 PM   #38
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I guess the pilot jet is a "50" upon further reseach...I must have been reading it upside down.
Should I move up to a richer pilot?
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1981 Honda Trail 110...best bikes ever!!!!!
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:57 PM   #39
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I adjusted the float hieght. (raised it a little) this seemed to help right off the bat, but still not cured.
With the float sitting higher, I also tried different needle settings with the E-clip and played with the air screw. Still a bit of a miss at in the same spot...but better.

Should I try to advance the stator timing a bit and see what happens?
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Old 03-29-2011, 06:09 AM   #40
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i would try a richer pilot first. if that doesn't work try a leaner one. BUT more importantly - if you shut the airscrew down, the bike should stall out. if it does not, you may have your idle screw in too far or your slide is not going all the way down, and you are completely bypassing the pilot circuit. does this bike idle on it's own for 10-15 seconds at least before it stalls? and at 1000-1500rpm? or do you have the idle screw cranked way in to make it idle?

if the airscrew has no effect, you are probably bypassing the circuit....when the slide is all the way down and resting on the idle screw, you should just barely see daylight through the bottom of the slide. does the slide clunk down on the idle screw when close the throttle? if it does not the freeplay in the throttle cable may be not enough.
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:12 PM   #41
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No it does stall out.
I have since made some more progress. With some more playing around, it now is nearly perfect. The air screw is turned out about 3 turns, idle is right down low. I can barley see past the slide like you mentioned.
The throttle is snapping shut.
So for the most part, the miss is gone. I sometimes get a bit of a quiver or a stumble in that same throttle range, I am going to adjust the float height once more and I have a feeling it will cure it. I think its a bit high.

Im almost there haha Thanks Stainless!
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1981 Honda Trail 110...best bikes ever!!!!!
1982 Honda Trail 110 parts bikes

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Old 03-30-2011, 03:37 AM   #42
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if you're 3 turns out, you probably need a leaner pilot...
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Old 04-02-2011, 10:12 PM   #43
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What is the correct float height for my machine?

If I hold the carb upright now, the float level is just a little higher than flat, or parrallel with the carb body.

Should it be perfectly flat? (parrallel with carb body)
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Old 04-09-2011, 06:49 PM   #44
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So I just tried two more pilot jets. A 55 and a 45, and the one that was in it was a 50.
The 45 was too lean, so I didn't play with that one too much. Lean looking plug, not running smooth.
The 55 was better, I adjusted the needle height one step at a time and at each setting I adjusted the air screw in small increments right from seated to 3-1/2 turns out. I also adjusted the float height. Very time consuming
If the float is too high, what symptoms should I expect other that leaking from the overflow?

Anyways, I have it to a rideable state but it is still not perfect. I will start and idle well and perform AWSOME right through the range but at about 1/16-1/8 throttle it coughs and sputters still. And once I reach cruising speed, this is where I like to hold the throttle to maintain the speed. so its always coughing haha.

How about air intrusion between the carb and cylinder? I put a new reed gasket in it when the reed was replaced, I just put a skim of silicone on it, maybe it needs more?
The crank seals are only a few years old so I wouldn't expect them to be bad.
I put a new oring on the base of the main jet every time the carb is apart, and a new plug each work session.

P.S- I read the plug after every adjustment and its been looking clear. Not tan or dark or black, but clear....whatever thats about. The exhaust kinda smells rich however
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1981 Honda Trail 110...best bikes ever!!!!!
1982 Honda Trail 110 parts bikes

2002 Gas Gas ec 400FSE.

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Old 04-10-2011, 11:38 PM   #45
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Here is a list of float heights from an old manual I have. May be of some help. No info on jet sizes oddly enough.
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