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Old 03-21-2011, 06:15 AM   #16
CATPart
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Everything was square and the bend planes were parallel to the footpeg. It is an optical illusion if you are seeing something crooked (wide angle lens on my camera tends to distort things a bit). I consirered rebending the linkage but I would have had to bend it so much that it would have become too short. I did buy a length of 1/4 inch rod, and started googling around for new linkage ends that would fit, but that never saw the light of day. I sent the manufacturere a picture wondering if they sent me the wrong linkage and they said "we will bend you a new one if you send us dimensions". I offered to pay half and they said no way, sweet! It may have been a race part, and require a bit of tweaking, but this was 1.5 inches off, and that is not a tweak, that is a bad part.
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Old 03-21-2011, 07:48 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CATPart View Post
Apologies about the thread hijack but what type of clamp is in the front connecting the airpipe to the bing? That looks like the business for quick and easy removal
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Old 03-21-2011, 09:43 AM   #18
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Those are "t-bolt hose clamps"... we used them on marine cooling systems, etc. Not necessarily "fast", but they sure can be strong!



I found these on Fastenal.com, with lots of diamers and clamp widths. Lots of other suppliers out there as well.
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:50 AM   #19
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The T bolt I used was Mcmaster Carr part number 5312K12 "TYPE 300 SERIES SS T-BOLT HOSE AND TUBE CLAMP, 2-5/16" TO 2-5/8" CLAMP DIA RANGE, 3/4" BAND WIDTH"

It was good because it covers the entire joint between the tube and carb. This clamp would not fit in front of the carb though.
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Old 03-21-2011, 12:46 PM   #20
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Well, I'll take your word for it but looking at your pictures, I'm seeing a rod that is angled outboard of the bike but not short at all. As my thread says, mine ended up a being bit long and I trimmed it slightly.

At least you got that detail worked out.
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Old 03-21-2011, 01:04 PM   #21
bpeckm
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The length of the rod was perfect, but the offset was incorrect. Basically the linkage offset was about 1.5 inches less than it should have been. You can see in this image that I had to initially use a long post on the trans lever to reach the linkage. Also in the image you see a coat hanger that I bent to the proper linkage dimensions. I would have had to bend and thread a new rod.

His picture is of the initial "incorrect" linkage... they sent him a new one, the correct one. No pics of that. Yet.

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Old 03-21-2011, 05:32 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by bpeckm View Post
His picture is of the initial "incorrect" linkage... they sent him a new one, the correct one. No pics of that. Yet.

Hmmm... I guess I'm dumb enough to need captions in order to follow the story. I'll just shut up!



Quote:
Originally Posted by maverick View Post
Apologies about the thread hijack but what type of clamp is in the front connecting the airpipe to the bing? That looks like the business for quick and easy removal
No offense meant but looks aren't everything and that type of clamp, used in that particular location, looks too much like a possible trip to the emergency ward for me.

Those clamps are absolutely superior for joining mufflers to headers and so forth but the thought of that threaded shank being so close to my leg, ankle and foot... Well, it gives me the willies just looking at it.

Still.... Not my bike and YMMV!
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Old 03-21-2011, 07:15 PM   #23
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Here are the 2 linkages. The one with the clevises is the new linkage. Pictures of the new link installed are in the web album at this link but I will post a pic below. You can see the offset is totally different. The lengths are identical however.

I am not sure that I like the T bolt clamp either. I did plan to trim off the extra bolt length should I keep it on the bike. Overall it is a bit more bulky looking than I wanted. I just don't have any more of the screw band clamps and if I go that route I want them all to match. The T bolt thing was just a test to see if I liked it. It does function well though.

And on another note...the only real leak I have in the bike is coming out of the transmission shift lever that I replaced. It didn't leak before I changed it. I was warned to be careful, and I thought I was, but for some reson it drips quite regularly since the change.

The 2 linkages, old and new (new has clevises):


Here is the new linkage installed, it is perfectly parallel to the frame:


Here is the drawing I sent to Motocicli Veloci:
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:15 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CATPart View Post

Here is the drawing I sent to Motocicli Veloci:


You measured that rod to a hundredth of a degree?

...and a hundredth of a millimeter?
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:34 PM   #25
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You measured that rod to a hundredth of a degree?

...and a hundredth of a millimeter?
lol...yes and no.
First I bent the coat hanger to the desired shape (seen in one of my images). Next I do a trick with the computer where I take a photograph of it, load it into a CAD program, scale the photo 1:1, then I just use the software to draw on top of the picture, creating a 3D model of the part. When I make the drawing from the 3D model, the dimensions automatically come out to 2 decimal places. I didn't bother making the extra effort to round the numbers. The manufacturer will apply the appropriate tolerances anyway, which in this case would be simply getting it close enough. Here is an image of what that process looks like...you see the CAD model drawn over the picture of the coat hanger with the digital caliper used for scale reference.

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Old 03-21-2011, 09:24 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiG DoM View Post

Can anyone give feed back regarding the Raask and Veloci rearsets (and any other plug and play makes). From what I can make out the Veloci uses existing frame holes and the Raask has a bolt on backing plate (this from pics on Omar's). Do the Raasks hand lower or are more comfortable. Pricing looks very similar.
I used a modified Raask set-up on a track bike and frankly preferred the stock footpegs even for track use. The pieces bolted to the ear that supports the stock passenger pegs and resulted in pegs that were less solid than the original pieces. Was disconcerting to have the footpegs give a little when shifting your weight.

Stock airhead footpegs don't drag before the heads if you've got any kind of decent suspension on the bike. They're solid and they're not too badly located, imho.

imho, fwiw, ymmv,
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