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Old 03-21-2011, 06:22 PM   #736
herrhelmet
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Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
Impressive handiwork. Here's some sexy carbon fiber inspiration for you guys!
Attachment 254919

I don't know what it is about that island but some really incredible racing geniuses in motorcycling and yachting. Britten inspired me to no end, too bad we lost him too soon.

His bike kicked ass.
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Old 03-21-2011, 06:38 PM   #737
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Originally Posted by herrhelmet View Post
I don't know what it is about that island but some really incredible racing geniuses in motorcycling and yachting. Britten inspired me to no end, too bad we lost him too soon.

His bike kicked ass.
+1. Not a lot of carbon fiber wheels back in the early 90's. Britten's story inspires and humbles me as a (very amateur) bike modder.
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Old 03-21-2011, 07:25 PM   #738
tmotten
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The weather is crap, and the beer is warm. What else are you going to do. Play music and fiddle in the garage.

Is the reason we wait a few hours between layers to reduce shrinkage? Heaps of video's they lay one layers straight into the other untill they get the thickness they want.
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Old 03-22-2011, 12:05 AM   #739
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Just found this thread and spent a few hours reading the whole thing. Thanks for sharing all this info with us. Started working on some simple parts, trying to get the hang of this so I can move on to the fun stuff.

Oh and tmotten, looking good! Keep it up.
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Old 03-22-2011, 09:54 AM   #740
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Originally Posted by tmotten View Post
The weather is crap, and the beer is warm. What else are you going to do. Play music and fiddle in the garage.

Is the reason we wait a few hours between layers to reduce shrinkage? Heaps of video's they lay one layers straight into the other untill they get the thickness they want.
When laminating with epoxy, you should do all of the lam at once. If you don't you have to sand the pasrt before finishing. When laminating with polyester you can and should do multiple layers to keep the shrinkage down, but only if you're not using a finsih resin or adding surfacing agent. If you do, then you need to sand the surfaces before lam'ing again as surfacing agent will act like mold release and your part will delaminate.
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Old 03-22-2011, 10:45 AM   #741
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Shit.
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Old 03-22-2011, 03:51 PM   #742
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Yeah, exactly. I thought with epoxy you had to wait 2 hours till it's gone hard but still tacky. Something about it sticking to your finger without leaving a fingerprint?

I started using unwaxed poly resin, but now need to figure out after curing how I can get it to stop being sticky on the sides that aren't laid onto a waxed surface. Like with the seat where I just painted over everything and tried to cover it with a insufficient layer of PVA. I unfortunately waited 2 hours with waxed poly resin for the seat. So will this delaminate over time? It's on there pretty solid at the moment.

tmotten screwed with this post 03-22-2011 at 03:58 PM
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:07 PM   #743
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Well I sure made a mess of things. Figures that I didn't find this thread until last night, after I'd poured some more resin to try and fill some holes in the mold. Didn't bond at all in most places, but bonded well enough in other spots that I think I have to start all over. Bah.
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Old 03-23-2011, 12:58 PM   #744
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Yeah, exactly. I thought with epoxy you had to wait 2 hours till it's gone hard but still tacky.
Depends on the system. We had a slow kick that would take overnight in a hot room to cure completely during the cool months even.
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Old 03-23-2011, 11:32 PM   #745
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When it comes to shaping foam, what kind of densities do you prefer to work with? The marine supply store we went to only had 2lb foam and that seems too soft. Want to order more, but am wondering what density I should try next.
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Old 03-24-2011, 06:31 AM   #746
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When it comes to shaping foam, what kind of densities do you prefer to work with? The marine supply store we went to only had 2lb foam and that seems too soft. Want to order more, but am wondering what density I should try next.
I personally prefer 4lb foam for shaping, usually Divincell or Klegecell, but only for cored pieces. If I'm making a "phantom" core part, I will always go 1.5 lb styro (EPS). But know that EPS foam can onlt be laminated with Epoxy, unless you seal the foam before laminating. For sealing I use white glue like Elmer's.
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:37 PM   #747
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Thanks. I'll try that next time. Would like something that's a little bit firmer, but not any more difficult to work with than it needs to be.
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:38 PM   #748
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By the way, what's happening with your project? Any progress? Looking forward to seeing the new subframe come together.
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Old 03-27-2011, 01:55 AM   #749
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So I thought I'd be able to use the microbeads as a dye but apparently it's not thick enough. Or am I not making it thick enough? I was thinking I would be able to prevent having to paint the thing if I'd use a dye in the epoxy. Considering how ugly the kevlar weaves are. Even the coloured ones.



I reckon I may have less sanding on my hands with this one. I've got 2 and a bit plastic cups of beads in about 250ml epoxy and the clay colour still shines through.
Would a proper dye do it or am I looking at a painting session in the near future?
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Old 03-27-2011, 10:47 AM   #750
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If the beads you speak of are micro balloons, they have zero structural value. They are a lightweight filler. Won't this seriously affect strength. What about carbon fibre powder mixed with the epoxy?
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