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Old 03-27-2011, 02:36 PM   #61
blaine.hale OP
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Hehe, it's no worries guys. I'll listen to any stories ya'll have about the bikes!
Not much progress, though. I've been doing a photo/video shoot for a 57' MV Agusta 125cc (restored by Wes at Apex cycles) all day. Now I have to go put in new floats on the BMW and change all fluids before riding it down to Orlando next weekend.
In bultaco news, just the engine is pulled and sitting in the trunk of my car with all the goodies....looking for a bench for me to take over (probably my co-workers.) I snapped some pics that I'll have up later and a teaser of the MV.
I went back to Augusta this past weekend and picked up all the tools I need to tear the engine down. I think I grabbed a ring compressor, chain tool (to hold the spur), feeler gauges, some belt tool to hold the magneto for re-assembly (I already pulled the magneto and stator), bearing puller and a gauge to check if the cam is all round and balanced.
Sorry for my lack of name on tools, I'm currently in BBQ food coma.
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Old 03-27-2011, 05:36 PM   #62
blaine.hale OP
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New rubbers:


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Old 03-28-2011, 10:31 AM   #63
PSchrauber
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Looks between decent and mint, a good basis anyway and for it's age.

- if there is some money left I would change the fenders,
- the rear secundary sprocket, mmmh ... looks different

The bike will be a good trials bike.

The rubber grip is cool, BTW.: Bultaco made the screws and bolts themself, all Bultaco bolts have Bultaco printed on the head
and 80 for 80 N/mm² max stress. As you want to turn it in a rider I would not try to get the Bultaco stamped one's,
very time consuming to get them all.

Bolts, screws and nuts you want to use should have a strength of 8.8.

Looking forward to any progress.
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:57 AM   #64
blaine.hale OP
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I happen to have a box full of the Bultaco stamped bolts (none of them were tossed or ruined), ready for me to clean and bolt up :) :)
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:02 AM   #65
bgoodsoil
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I love those bolts. Those Bultaco guys knew about attention to detail.
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Old 03-28-2011, 12:35 PM   #66
PSchrauber
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I have to correct myself:


Quote:
Originally Posted by PSchrauber View Post
Looks between decent and mint, a good basis anyway and for it's age.

- if there is some money left I would change the fenders,
- the rear secundary sprocket, mmmh ... looks different

The bike will be a good trails bike.

The rubber grip is cool, BTW.: Bultaco made the screws and bolts themself, all Bultaco bolts have Bultaco printed on the head
and 80 for 80 N/mm² max stress. As you want to turn it in a rider I would not try to get the Bultaco stamped one's,
very time consuming to get them all.

Bolts, screws and nuts you want to use should have a strength of 8.8.

Looking forward to any progress.
Now this error is corrected, back to the bolts, this is cool

There should always be some Cent over for a re coating with zinc and galvanising in the original colors, at least here in Germany only some Euros, the result is great:



When at the end of the rebuild you assemble the bike there is not very much more pleasent then using good looking on spot fitting fasteners.

It comes just second after the first ride you do with the bike, (any other ride is maximum third) IMHO.
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Old 03-29-2011, 06:00 AM   #67
stainlesscycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darmst6829 View Post
Hello,

I would be on the look out for a parts donor bike. The parts missing individually will wipe out your checking account. expect to pay $500 for a complete headlamp assembly with speedometer or $500 for a complete rusty old M26 Matador. A motor rebuild will cost about $1200.oo. I think it would be wise to expect $3500 to get the bike back to original usable condition. Just saying........been there done that.

Dave
$3500 to rebuild? that's crazy. i just built 3 of them for under $1500 in parts total. i put in all new pistons, 1 new sleeve, all new bearings/seals/etc. didn't do any rods - but you can get cranks pressed for $50 if you look around. or do it yourself - but at that price it's worth it to send it out.
all run spectacularly if you remember to run extra grounds from motoplat to coil, and remember to not let flywheel rub stator wire

if you forget to run extra wire and let wire rub, they will fail miserably after you travel 8 hours to race them. don't ask me how i know.

it does help if you have parts bikes. even with 5 or 6 parts bikes and spare motors here, i still have to buy parts..
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Old 03-29-2011, 06:05 AM   #68
norton73
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Or if it's still got points and condenser, relocate the condenser under tank, in the airflow, away from the engine heat under the flywheel.

Otherwise the condenser will fail at the bottom of the biggest hill between you and your truck.

Ask me how I know
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Old 03-29-2011, 07:46 AM   #69
blaine.hale OP
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Hmm, I'm going to have to revisit these two points mentioned above.
Hey if ya'll have any pics of what your mentioning with relocating and adding more grounds...please do post away!
I'm pretty sure I'm just going to make my own loom, honestly. It's simple enough and I've done it in the past for other things.
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:25 AM   #70
stainlesscycle
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model 26 i would assume has points. looking at your pics, confirms this... detach (or get a new capacitor) capacitor from points plate. reattach it under the front of the tank on the frame - make sure it is grounded well. run a wire from newly located capacitor to the original screw that capacitor wire was attached to.

if motoplat, run an additional wire from stator plate mount screw to ignition coil mount bracket.

if femsatronic, do the same as motoplat - just a longer wire - most femsatronics are under the seat.


make sure the wires that go from stator to coil are mounted against the case behind flywheel - i use safety wire. if they are not pushed against the case, they can get rubbed on by flywheel, and will become intermittent. guaranteed.
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Old 03-29-2011, 09:06 AM   #71
darmst6829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stainlesscycle View Post
$3500 to rebuild? that's crazy. i just built 3 of them for under $1500 in parts total. it does help if you have parts bikes. even with 5 or 6 parts bikes and spare motors here, i still have to buy parts..


I am suggesting $3500 total for complete correct running usable bike. $1200 or so for motor rebuild. These are realistic numbers.

Dave
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Old 03-29-2011, 09:27 AM   #72
stainlesscycle
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i don't see how $1200 for motor? as i said, i built 3 of them in the last 3 months. all from parts. none were even close to running when i started......i started with a big lot of parts bikes that had sat for long long time.
new rod and piston, $500 max. that's if crank is no good...$250 or so max for top end. a rebore is only $30-$40...
bearings, seals, and gasket kit $200 max (i just bought them all for less than that)
new clutch and primary chain $100 (guesstimation - i know the chain is $30.) the metal clutches don't wear out easily...
rebuild motoplat (if needed) $75

that's a heckuva lot less than $1200.. and that's if everything is bad aside from trans and cases.

of course you could put $3500 into a whole bike if you did absolutely no work yourself, and spent $1000.00 on paint. and weren't planning on riding them through the woods and trashing them...

i built these 2 completely from parts, that were rough to say the least. i have under $1100 into the pair. i sent nothing out (aside from rebore/resleeve) and did all work myself. they are not show bikes to say the least, but they both run and ride excellent. i am racing them, not showing them. obvously they are not correct - there's a husky front end on the blue one (much better...) and a 21" front on the red one..

i'd sell/trade the red one - i'm not gonna be racing it - i'm running another bul or a puch 175 probably...


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stainlesscycle screwed with this post 03-29-2011 at 09:44 AM
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Old 03-29-2011, 09:33 AM   #73
blaine.hale OP
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I'm seeing that large figure as a shop rate figure, honestly...or replacing every single part with NOS.
Anyways, it's a trail bike, the money pit is my BMW ;)
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Old 03-29-2011, 10:06 AM   #74
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WTF is with the "It's going to cost $3500" crowd?

I'd say a couple nights of wrenching and a couple hundred bucks and it would be a-ok for my standards.
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Old 03-29-2011, 10:48 AM   #75
PSchrauber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oregoncoast View Post
Ok....we all get it...sometimes simple bike projects turn into expensive nightmares like yours did....


Now that we have throughly explored how builds can sometimes go bad...can you just let Blaine tell us how his is going....

Quote:
Originally Posted by darmst6829 View Post
I am suggesting $3500 total for complete correct running usable bike. $1200 or so for motor rebuild. These are realistic numbers.

Dave
$ 1200 seems realistic as a complete engine rebuild with:
- piston and cylinder honing,
- crank rebuild and calibrated,
- cluth rebulid,
- primary drive rebuild,
- all bearings and seals,
- new points new condensor,
- minor stuff like starter spring, some bolts, some shims, ...

If something of the above mentioned is OK, it will be less,
if thee are more issues like gears ??, it will be more.

The rest depends on how good the rebuild will be, the suspension,
3500 $ can be can be more or less, depens where the builder want'
to go.

Just one example of many to make a decision, (I only mention technical stuff now), the Betor forks are good but can be modded very well:

- loose some weight,
- better chrome plating, (the original is poor in quality), and you
can compensate the wear inside of the inner lower fork legs too,
which is a benefit for stabilize the fork and the steering.
- better fork seals with double lips and less friction,
(available from Ariate for 35mm Marzocchi forkks)
and with added dustcoverlips so the not very well
closing original dustcovers are no problem in the future.
- progressive fork spring for better response which is original
only moderate.
- better and andjustable air valves,
- upper fork locks with adjustable spring rate screw.
- special fork oil,
this is in cost about: 500€


Or just the easy rebuild:
- new fork seals just the pair in each leg that came original,
- new standard fork oil,
- new seals

this is in cost about: 50€

Like this bike:




(which is not mine, mine is newer model)
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