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Old 03-29-2011, 11:51 AM   #76
crazydrummerdude
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Old 03-29-2011, 12:07 PM   #77
PSchrauber
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Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude View Post





Just to note: !!

I like this very much

But I have to mention I looked at the money side from an other direction too!
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Old 03-29-2011, 12:10 PM   #78
blaine.hale OP
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I'ma do this project for about tree fitty.
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Old 03-29-2011, 02:56 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude View Post





Why is that mean man beating on that Donkey?
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Old 03-29-2011, 03:08 PM   #80
PSchrauber
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Originally Posted by Sniper X View Post
Why is that mean man beating on that Donkey?
In German there is a saying:

"Es lohnt nicht der Mühe auf ein totes Pferd noch einzuschlagen"

which means, I' am afraid that I'am not a professional translator):

It is not worth the trouble to pursue a dead horse yet
or something likewise that in English.
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Old 03-29-2011, 03:59 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by PSchrauber View Post
$ 1200 seems realistic as a complete engine rebuild with:

Like this bike:




(which is not mine, mine is newer model)
Neat bike, looks like a model 10 with a 175cc cylinder? I like the straight leg forks and non-tiller upper triple clamp. I have a 250cc Matador set up as a trials bike very much the same as this.


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Old 04-09-2011, 01:10 PM   #82
tenorjazz
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I just got a chance to ride Dave's trials bike this morning. Just putted around the driveway and a little through the woods in front of my house and it was a blast.

He brought it by this morning so I could look at how some of the bits go together for my restoration project

(http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...hlight=bultaco)

The guy knows about Bultacos and getting them running, he has 3 running bikes, a Matador, a Sherpa and a Campera and is currently building a Metralla. All mid 60's vintage. The bike I'm restoring is also his (when I'm done I get to ride it for as long as I want or until I get my own Matador rebuilt and running).

The cost for parts on the motor rebuild I am doing has been a few hundred dollars, and that includes stripping down the motor to the last washer, cleaning it up and putting back together with new bearings and seals. I didn't do any work on the crank or piston other than clean it. If the motor had needed a complete rebuild and I sent it off to someone else to do, it would have cost $1200 easy.

Total rebuild might only be $400 in parts, plus anything I can find in Dave's pile of used parts. Of course I have needed to get a new compressor, some specialty tools, tap and die set, buffing wheel, blast cabinet, Powder coating system (I already had a pottery kiln $$$ that I use for my oven), air tools, and more, on top of all the tools I already had (lost track of the cost...) Then there is the time spent. I've never done this before so there is some trial and lot's of error, plus just trying to figure out how things work, on top of the labor. I figure if I was charging $10.00 an hour I could easily bill for $3500 in labor. The amount of money it takes to restore motorcycles can be a lot. Of course the money in tools can be amortized over all the motorcycles you build.

If this is the only bike I build I figure it would cost about $8500 for tools, parts and labor to cover the costs.

As far as making a really nice looking bike verses just a runner, my background as artist, sculptor and craftsman means I need to make it look great or it's not worth doing. I plan on competing with it when I'm done, but the first time I take it out of the shop I want it to look better than new! I've cleaned, painted and polished everything on this bike and even though it is taking me longer to get in running because of this, in the end I will really feel good about the work I've done.

In the end all this squabbling over the cost of a rebuild comes down to "it depends".
  • It depends on how much work you do yourself
  • It depends on how much time or skill you have to do the work
  • It depends on how many tools you own yourself
  • It depends on what level of restoration/rebuild you want to do.

But it doesn't matter in the end how you do it, it just matters that you take these incredible old bikes and get them running again.



And Dave... Thanks for getting me excited again about the bikes of my youth!!



Getting close!!!

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Old 04-12-2011, 09:24 AM   #83
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Quick update:
Got the cases split. The bearings all look and fee brand spankin' new and everything is clean. No metal shavings, loose bits or weirdness. All in all, the best condition motor I've ever had the pleasure of taking apart. I take it up to Wes (Apex cycles) this saturday to use his blasting cabinet and time/knowledge to get this motor all brand new lookin'!



I have real pics too, I just need to edit them and push them to flickr.
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Old 04-13-2011, 07:10 PM   #84
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The cases are split for blasting this saturday. Don't have pics of that yet:













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Old 04-17-2011, 08:42 PM   #85
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Media blasted. Next step is powder coat the jug, polish the crank case, reassemble and ride!










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Old 04-18-2011, 05:28 AM   #86
PSchrauber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaine.hale View Post
Media blasted. Next step is powder coat the jug, polish the crank case, reassemble and ride!


Mmmmh, I like these monument engine photos a lot, looks nice, keep on with posting.


Bultaco 6 speed 340cc engine from 1981
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Old 04-25-2011, 08:46 PM   #87
blaine.hale OP
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I take the cylinder to be powder coated on wednesday. Does anyone know what the color code is and if it's gloss, semi-glass, satin, flat or whatever?
I'd like to get it accurate
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Old 04-26-2011, 05:19 PM   #88
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I'm just guessing here, but doesn't powder coating act as an insulator instead of promoting heat convection and radiation?

I would think a thin coat of hi-temp flat black would be best from a practical (not eye-candy) perspective.

BTW, beautiful job. And it looks like you converted your living room to a garage for this project! You are the man!
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Old 04-26-2011, 06:24 PM   #89
blaine.hale OP
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I'm just guessing here, but doesn't powder coating act as an insulator instead of promoting of heat convection and radiation?

I would think a thin coat of hi-temp flat black would be best from a practical (not eye-candy) perspective.
You could be right, however, it was recommended by several mechanics and even the guy who powder coats for a living. I'll have to research more science on that

Anyone have an answer on the finish of the black? I drop it off tomorrow!
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Old 04-27-2011, 01:25 AM   #90
PSchrauber
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Originally Posted by blaine.hale View Post
You could be right, however, it was recommended by several mechanics and even the guy who powder coats for a living. I'll have to research more science on that

Anyone have an answer on the finish of the black? I drop it off tomorrow!
There is only the cylinder to coat black a I know, looking on old pictures, the cylinderhead had no paintcoating, either had the enginebase.

I would take standard heat resistant black paint for the cylinder.

There are many roads and lane's that lead to rome. You can follow the original color schema from old pictures and photos. Or create an own one, but then you have to have a design plan in forehand!

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